3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's

[Rushthezeppelin]

I have spent hours searching this forum and several others and I cant seem to find a definitive (or close to) answer regarding lift+larger tires+ spacers. I would just experiment with this but this vehicle lives at my parent's place 500 miles away and I will only have a few days to install everything before I need to have it fully operational.

I have a 2000 SR5. I am planning a 2" lift (881/890) w stock wheels.
It seems the only safe bet for tire size is 265/75/16, although I'd go larger if I could be sure it wouldnt be a huge pain to resolve rubbing issues.
Then the spidertrax question comes into play.

Can anyone point me to a thread, or directly answer whether or not I will have issues with rubbing with a 2" lift, stock wheels, BFG KO2 (265/75/16), and 1.25" spidertrax?

And if that is no issue - how large a tire can I fit with this setup without issues?

32s should have no issues with rubbing even on stock suspension and with those spacers (I had 32s with the 1.5" spacers that came on my truck and had no issues). I'm running pizza cutter 33s and barely had to clear anything. I have an ever so slight rub on the back of the wheel well but it's just on the part of the plastic sticking out the most and it's only when I'm in reverse.

 

[phattyduck]

Can anyone point me to a thread, or directly answer whether or not I will have issues with rubbing with a 2" lift, stock wheels, BFG KO2 (265/75/16), and 1.25" spidertrax?

And if that is no issue - how large a tire can I fit with this setup without issues?

With the right alignment and no spacers, that will for sure fit. With the spacers, it may rub in the back side of the front wheel wells due to the increased scrub radius.

-Charlie

 

[96RedRunner]

What [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] said, same experience.

 

[Jaydid]

Dang I thought I would get email notifications for replies and didnt check until just now. Thanks y'all. That is really helpful. Now I can order parts and prepare to spend an afternoon saying unsavory things while battling ancient rusted suspension.

 

[Mendoncyclesmith]

Okay, so, trying to ask this in an thread that seems most pertinent.

'96 SR5.

2" OME suspension lift, all the way around.

Wanted to correct tire/body clearance imbalance, as the front sat lower than the rear.

Went to some folks who I shouldn't have, and ended up with a 2.5" lift block on my struts, and suddenly, "Carolina Squat". :wtf:

Got it sorted by lifting the rear with blocks, but now it's wicked tall, and not in a way that is truly improving off road capabilities (from what I've read here).

I'm working on that, but here's my issue that I need suspension, Gen 3 expertise with.

The entire front end is essentially new, or confirmed to be in solid shape. New UCA's, new LBJ's, new tie rid ends, new front axles after CV boots exploded, got the caster cams freed up, and a fresh 4 wheel alignment, new sway bar links too.

LCA bushings were confirmed to be tight and in good shape when the UCA's were installed this Spring.

Any significant direction change that includes elevation change (think, turning into a driveway with a drainage culvert at the end), creates this THUNK, then going out, THUNK, on the opposite side when going the opposite direction.

My mechanic is a grizzled veteran, but not a lift, or offroad suspension guy, and he'd be the first to say this.

His theory after checking everything, is that the front axle is sliding back and forth due to the increased articulation the various lifts created.

I found an offroad specialist locally, but he's not a Gen 3 guy, so I wanted to ask here for input before making an appointment to meet up with his to discuss it further.

Any input is appreciated!

 

[96RedRunner]

96 SR5. 2" OME suspension lift, all the way around. Wanted to correct tire/body clearance imbalance, as the front sat lower than the rear. Went to some folks who I shouldn't have, and ended up with a 2.5" lift block on my struts, and suddenly, "Carolina Squat". :wtf: Got it sorted by lifting the rear with blocks, but now it's wicked tall, and not in a way that is truly improving off road capabilities

4.5" lift way you've done it going to cause you problems as described on a 3rd Gen.
One of your posts you mentioned receiving a package with offending packaging tape labels on it.
Reap what you sew Bro, Karma.

 

[Mendoncyclesmith]

Ha! Thanks, appreciate it, as long as I'm on the right track, my sanity can reassert itself.

Sadly, these issues existing pre-proselytizing packing materials, so Jesus didn't cause this problem....

That said those UCA's are great, and definitely helped with getting my 34's to not rub, so win, there.

 

[Endlessblockades]

Ha! Thanks, appreciate it, as long as I'm on the right track, my sanity can reassert itself.

Sadly, these issues existing pre-proselytizing packing materials, so Jesus didn't cause this problem....

That said those UCA's are great, and definitely helped with getting my 34's to not rub, so win, there.

What is meant by 'front axle sliding'?

 

[96RedRunner]

Ha! Thanks, appreciate it, as long as I'm on the right track, my sanity can reassert itself.

Didn't say you are on the right track, cause and effect.
Sanity restoration ditch spacers and go with body lift. History repeats itself.

Auto correct Sew - Sow

 

[Mendoncyclesmith]

What is meant by 'front axle sliding'?

I honestly don't know, I'm not a vehicle mechanic.

Had a brief conversation with The 4x4 Center in VT, and they did mention using extended axles in certain situations, so I'm working under the belief that this was what my mechanic alluded to.

'96, ah, got it. Since I'm in the thread about this? I keep reading contradictory info regarding the best type(s) of lifting for actual use off road.

Sounds like you advocate for body lift over suspension or spacer blocks?

 

[phattyduck]

'96, ah, got it. Since I'm in the thread about this? I keep reading contradictory info regarding the best type(s) of lifting for actual use off road.

Sounds like you advocate for body lift over suspension or spacer blocks?

(Suspension) Spacer blocks are almost always a bad idea for performance, especially off road. Small body lifts are generally ok and help with tire clearance, especially for independent suspensions.

Your goal is to find the right compromise of clearance (tires, approach/departure angles, etc.), wheel travel (both up and down) and price for your situation. Different shocks will also perform better or worse in various operating conditions (high/low speed, etc.).

There is no one right answer.

-Charlie

 

[Endlessblockades]

I honestly don't know, I'm not a vehicle mechanic.

Had a brief conversation with The 4x4 Center in VT, and they did mention using extended axles in certain situations, so I'm working under the belief that this was what my mechanic alluded to.

'96, ah, got it. Since I'm in the thread about this? I keep reading contradictory info regarding the best type(s) of lifting for actual use off road.

Sounds like you advocate for body lift over suspension or spacer blocks?

Hmmm OK. We have 2 front axles and that just struck an odd note.

I don't think you meant the second part of your reply for me, but I'll add that I like to keep a lower center of gravity and consider myself a 4X4 lowrider (basic 2/2.5" Bilstein 5100 with 881 front and 906 rear springs - no body or spacer lift activities). These vehicles are super-capable and do what I need although I probably push it too far from time to time. I do have a pair of the Trackmotive extendo axles ready to install because even a mild lift will destroy your OEM CV boots in time.

 

[Jaydid]

With the right alignment and no spacers, that will for sure fit. With the spacers, it may rub in the back side of the front wheel wells due to the increased scrub radius.

-Charlie

Wow glad things are back online. I hadn't been able to hit the site for a hot minute.

Follow up question here. I've got the OME 2" lift which I'll get installed shortly. I'd like a wider tire if possible because I'll primarily be running on deep sand. Does anyone know if 285/70/16 has rubbing/ clearance issues with a 2" lift?
The height is basically the same but would be almost 1" wider per tire.

 

[Endlessblockades]

Wow glad things are back online. I hadn't been able to hit the site for a hot minute.

Follow up question here. I've got the OME 2" lift which I'll get installed shortly. I'd like a wider tire if possible because I'll primarily be running on deep sand. Does anyone know if 285/70/16 has rubbing/ clearance issues with a 2" lift?
The height is basically the same but would be almost 1" wider per tire.

Impossible to say with any certainty not knowing if you are on stock offset/BS rims, have spacers, and the inherent differences between tire MFGs in the 'same size' etc. I would guess you'll get some minor rubbing in the rear of the front fenderwell from time to time at full lock (only in reverse for me, for some reason). Tire clearance might be a bit tight on the UCAs, but again, just a total guess. Someone else will have more experience....

 

[Mendoncyclesmith]

Hmmm OK. We have 2 front axles and that just struck an odd note.

Thanks, and I have no clue what I'm talking about most of the time.

Ask me about bicycles? I can expound with authority.

Made a small discovery that I shared with my experienced, but non 4x4/offroad shop.

Left turn, clunk, now I have a weird steering/tire wobble at highway speed, right turn, clunk, it seems to "reset" and the wobble 100% disappears.

Something clicked for him, he did some more digging, and I think we're on the right track. Extended axles will address the problem.

Long story short, OEM axles were fine, till I got the front blocks installed. Then all four boots just exploded, pretty much immediately.

Not making any connection to the lift (1996 axles, they were due for replacement, AFAIK), I had both "full axles" replaced and while the boots have stayed intact, the clunk has been there ever since.

Sounds like the Trackmotivs would be the solution, just spoke with them, now to find a set.

 

[Jaydid]

Impossible to say with any certainty not knowing if you are on stock offset/BS rims, have spacers, and the inherent differences between tire MFGs in the 'same size' etc. I would guess you'll get some minor rubbing in the rear of the front fenderwell from time to time at full lock (only in reverse for me, for some reason). Tire clearance might be a bit tight on the UCAs, but again, just a total guess. Someone else will have more experience....

Gotchya. I do have stock rims. Yeah, this is always my issue with tires. Quite expensive to test and fail if they dont fit. Hence why I try to search the forums and ask if I cant find some idea of whether or not it would be a $1200+ mistake/headache.

 

[Sir_LR]

Hey fellow members, I wanted to lift my 3rd gen about 2-2.5 inches and I really liked the look of the dobinsons kit but its a bit more pricier than the bilstein, OME setup. Is the extra cost worth it in ride comfort since ill be doing 95% on road or should I save a bit of money and go for the bilstein 5100 OME but I've heard the ride is pretty harsh on the bilstein. If this was already discussed let me know, Complete newbie since I'm used to owning land rovers with the lift rods so no debating. Thanks

 

[Psychlops]

Just over a year ago I installed the Moog 99 talls and KYB Gasajusts on my '01 2wd. The ride has been terrible since and I can't believe I've gone this long w/out addressing it. I feel every crack, expansion joint, hard jolts on the slightest bumps, etc. And a few new rattles around the dash as a result. I did this at 246k miles so I know the ride was not near this bumpy before. Others on this forum and elsewhere have used this exact spring/shock setup on a 2wd and say it works for them. Maybe they have bigger tires and carrying a lot of extra weight?
I've assumed it's those 4wd springs that I put on my 2wd and not likely to be the shocks. But Moog and other aftermarket manufacturers list the same spring rate for the 2wd & 4wd coils. They list a heavier load rating for the 4wd, but from what I understand it's only the spring rate that affects stiffness.

What do y'all think? Isn't it more likely the springs and not the shocks? Those KYB's are listed as OE replacements. Should i just try ordering some 2wd springs from a different brand and see if that helps? Maybe I just got a bad batch of Moogs or all Moogs are stiffer than they claim? I used the 81088/81041 combo like all others.

Any advice is appreciated - my rig is gonna fall apart if I keep driving it like this. It's like there's no shock absorption going on at all on abrupt bumps. Shocks seem to work normally besides that. 32psi in tires.

 

[jgue467]

I have never read moog lasts much longer than a year or two - their ljbs fail often so avoid.

I went OEM yet replaced virtually all components or bushings (minus the panhard). Ride is so smooth - solid and predictable. Not inexpensive yet look how long the originals lasted. Holding up after 3 yrs.

 

[Sir_LR]

Is the Icon stage 2 lift overkill for a daily driver truck that off roads mild trails biweekly. If so how about the ss 1.2 with the raffle 2.0 shocks how often would they have to be rebuilt or is the bilstein with the ss1.2 the best for a daily.