3rd gen DAMAGEinc build
- Thread starter nedceifus
- Start date
Cool! That means I can go down! I’ll play around with ride height, see what works.
Was working on my Spartin install yesterday & got a little zealous with the impact wrench. Broke a bolt on the adjustment ring retainer*
. Anyway, it is extracted & I found a replacement. I’m putting my sway bars back on. I saw no noticeable difference in its ability to flex & there was a noticeable wibble wobble during hwy driving. Rearend will be back together tonight. Also picked up a job building sliders on my brothers 4th gen. There will be some rust repair on his frame also. His 4th gen is from Minnesota. I’ll scale the rust off it, patch it as nessassary & then give it a coat of POR-15.
. Anyway, it is extracted & I found a replacement. I’m putting my sway bars back on. I saw no noticeable difference in its ability to flex & there was a noticeable wibble wobble during hwy driving. Rearend will be back together tonight. Also picked up a job building sliders on my brothers 4th gen. There will be some rust repair on his frame also. His 4th gen is from Minnesota. I’ll scale the rust off it, patch it as nessassary & then give it a coat of POR-15.phattyduck
Elite Member
Leave the front off and put the rear back on. That should give the most 'balanced' flex. Swaybars for independent suspension is detrimental to flex. Swaybars on a solid axle can 'balance' the compression vs. roll rates of the suspension due to inboard mounted springs.
Maximum travel in the front with stock arms and bump stops is 8.5" or so. 25.25" full extension, 16.75" full compression (Upper ball joint limited on droop, weight of truck on bump stops with no springs for compression). So, set your ride height with that in mind. You can get more droop with new upper arms, but you need to make sure your front shocks can handle it.
-Charlie
Cool, I’ll throw the front back on only. Tell me this, if you take tire firmest out of the equation, what ride height is best for the most “action” out of your suspension? It seems to me that stock would give the best balance of up & down travel. Suppose a person was willing to sacrifice sheet metal to achieve the low stance with a decent size tire.
Well I ****ed up. I either did not get all of the instructions with my Spartan, or they just have piss poor ones. Anyway. Drove my rig to town today with locker installed. It was basically a spool. Started doing a little more research & found some instructions on Randy’s Ring & Pinion web sight that clued me into what is wrong. I left the side gear thrust washers in. There is not enough clearance for the rear to disengage. Anyway, I’ll get that pulled back apart & fixed tonight.
Trip report. I had both front & rear sway bars off for a couple of weeks. It was doing a wibble wobble coming off bridges at HWY speeds. We went to WY this weekend & I threw the rear sway bar back on before we left. It was better but not enough. I’ll be putting the front one back on. It would go into a wibble wobble at 70. High winds & a heavy load played a part. We had 4 people & 3 dogs. All of our gear & a cooler we’re on top of the rig. The Spartin is going to go also as soon as I can afford to buy a factory e-locker. It’s just too unruly for street use IMO. Id say after this trip a supercharger, shocks, rear springs, front sway bar, air compressor, & a selectable Locker are on the list!
