3rd gen front cv axles.

jrkiernan

jrkiernan

New member
Ok, I have a 2000 t4r sr5 3" toytec lift on 33" BFG KM2 and stock 4.10s. This weekend I snapped the passenger side front axle. The splines are still in the dif and I can pull the axle on the dif side out to see that the brake is where the splines meet the smooth part. I am looking into axles and noticed my axle nut is 35mm and the Oriley and most non-OEM are 42? I also am looking at the CV Ultimate IFS Axle set. However, they are $2K and I'm wondering if anyone has these. This is much more expensive than a $200 OEM axle and I am not sure if I would need to swap anything else out.
This is also one of my daily drivers and I don't go crazy with it but this weekend it broke in Folsom and I was luckily able to tow it to San Jose. So any advice???
 
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Lol 2k for axles?? At 1k each, you could replace a $45 rock auto axle every month for almost 2 years and break even.

Is OEM the way to go for CV’s? Just put in a new Cardone - will see how long it lasts. Couldn’t justify $200 for something that’s so easy to replace. You’re lifted though, so that’s gotta take a toll on axles.
 
Personalty I would convert to manual hubs and run OEM axles with silicon boots and carry aftermarket spare axles before I'd spend two grand on just axles.
 
4rth gen front diff

Would someone please install a 4rth gen front diff so we can use better axles!!! I've been waiting to see a write up.
 
Have you been able to get the splined shaft out of the diff yet?
I've had that type of break before. I ended up getting a long drill bit from one of the tractor supply stores and a small slide hammer from Harbor Freight. The end of the slide hammer had 1/4x20 threads. So I used the long drill bit to drill into the piece of shaft that was stuck in the diff, tapped it with a 1/4x20 tap, then screwed the slide hammer into the shaft. A quick tap with the slide hammer pulled it right out. The shaft was surprisingly soft and easy to drill from what I remember.
 
I have not. I am waiting for space in a buddy's shop to work on it as pulling everything apart in the rain sucks. also I don't have space in the driveway at the moment. I appreciate all the info and advice. As far as I know, OEM is the way to go unless you are doing KOH with ifs or have deep pockets.
The aftermarket ones seem to have more voids in the metal than the OEM do making them easier to snap. The ones from RCV seem to be a harder metal combo but are $1,995 for the set +tax and shipping.
The CJV ones are OEM reman with upgraded bearings and inner boot for $274 ea +$95 core. Not bad as that's what OEM will cost. The aftermarket ones that I have found are much cheaper but I have had these in my 4runner for less than 20k miles and broke it. I don't pretend to know all the ins and outs of the metals or the products that are sold but if I can go with an OEM or CJV I think I will. I like the manual hub conversion and am interested in the 4th gen diff swap. Thanks again for the info.
 
Dealing with CVJ was amazing. I called and talked to the gal that answered the phone she couldn’t answer all of my questions then a tech/mechanic got on the phone and answered all of my questions. They told me there was a 2 week back order and I received an email 4 days later letting me know that they shipped out. I sent my cores in Monday and had already received the core refund by Wednesday.
 
Ok, so I can not get the broken axle out of the shaft. new OEM axles and shaft with bearing and seal. Hopefully, this won't happen again.
 

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cas5259 said:
Lol 2k for axles?? At 1k each, you could replace a $45 rock auto axle every month for almost 2 years and break even.

Is OEM the way to go for CV’s? Just put in a new Cardone - will see how long it lasts. Couldn’t justify $200 for something that’s so easy to replace. You’re lifted though, so that’s gotta take a toll on axles.
Click to expand...

There are plenty of threads on this. RCV 2K axles are for lifted trucks who wheel every weekend & don't need cheap Cardones snapping everytime you're out on the trail. Trail repairs get old real fast. The CVJ's are next in toughness at around $500-$600 a pair. OEM Rebuilds & Napa's MaxDrive (New) seem to hold up & are what most of us who dont rock crawl buy. Do not buy any aftermarket rebuilds even if only doing dirt roads. New Napa's are the same price or only a few dollars more.
 
NAPA axles are the way to go. Lifetime warranty so if you tear a boot take it back and get a new one. I've been running them for about 7 years now and only had to change two. LOT's of miles. I've found that spraying some silicone lube on the boots before a long drive helps a lot. Easy preventative measure
 
As long as the boot isn't blown and the grease is still in there, I've never heard of an OE axle developing play under normal circumstances.

If you don't want to spend the money on CVJ, the next best thing is to get an OE axle from the junkyard and rebuilding it with the OE boot kit. Thermoplastic is the OE material and is far superior to neoprene which is what all the other rebuild kits use.

With a 3" lift, a diff drop is also mandatory to straighten out the angle IMO. No CV boot is going to last more than a couple years with those extreme angles. I've been changing out my CV boot every 1-2 years thinking that different brands would be better, but they are all the same. Finally caved in and did a diff drop which is what I should've done from the beginning.
 
OEM rebuilt axle shaft part number

What would the correct OEM part number be for the following:

2002 4Runner converted to manual hubs?
 
G_Raw said:
8inch conversion been done... just no write up

https://www.fourwheeler.com/feature...ta-4runner-proves-ifs-doesnt-have-to-be-weak/


If you cruise independent you'll find a thread or two of 1st gen Tacomas that have done Tundra 9" diffs ( really 8.7 I believe) by doing some narrowing work. They run 37s no problem with that setup.
Click to expand...

I did see that article previously, I just can't find any detailed information about what it actually takes to make it happen. I have searched and searched but I just can't find anything
 
anniesball72 said:
I did see that article previously, I just can't find any detailed information about what it actually takes to make it happen. I have searched and searched but I just can't find anything
Click to expand...

I suspect it'll take some narrowing work to clear things. Modifying of diff bracket arms to sit correctly. Or build custom bracket arms. Custom CVs from someone like RCV to go from 8inch to our ifs hubs. Stock CVs may work depending on how long or short you need em. If need longer Tundra CVs maybe applicable to the situation. Lastly swapping front driveshaft or lengthening/shortening for optimal angles once the front axle is in place.

Seems like a bit of work for cool points when someone stops you at the mall to ask about your rig. I'd need to murder a few 7.5 diffs first or be looking to build a rig to race KOH personally to make me consider it doing all that work.
 
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