3rd Gen Rear Window Cargo Switch Mod W/ PICTURES

[Dom8706]

Oops. Update on the 2002 mod. The fix I posted works but it also creates other issues I didn't realize when I posted. If you connect as I posted, when you hit the unlock switch on the passenger doors the rear window goes down. Oops. I guess is something that I will have to learn to live with because I really want the switch for the rear window in the back since I sleep in the back when camping.

Thats an interesting issue lol. I believe that would be something i could live with also as i camp in the back or my rig too. After i get done with this mod i need to figure out a easy way to get that outlet back there on constant power and ill be set! I think i am going to construct a removable screen to fit on the inside of the back window too to keep the bugs out. Anyways..

Thank you for taking the time to figuring this out for the 2002 owners.

 

[The G.O.A.T.]

So the unlocking triggering the window to go down drives me nuts. Therefore, I disconnected the Black/Blue wire connection to the new switch which basically put it back to the way all of the other 3rd gens are connected with this mod. That does make it where the doors have to be locked to make the back glass go up with the new switch and the doors have to be unlocked to make the back glass go down with the new switch. I camped in it last nigh and just used the key fob to put the locks in the correct position before using the new switch and it worked great.

I've also thought about a screen too. I have some old tents with the no-see-um mesh I could repurpose and thought about using some magnets to somehow attach it when needed.

 

[RodrickHeffley]

so I have a 98 limited, and followed this with my switch. Down and Ground work, but there's no green and red wire for the up. what wire do i use on the gray harness?

nevermind, i had to use the wire on the main computer harness


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JHUNT#3]

old thread, I know

New guy here! Well i've got an 02 and I wanted to do this rear window switch mod. Wired everything in correctly, and the switch kind of works.

My problem is the window only goes down using the switch if the truck is unlocked (specifically only the rear door needs to be), and the window only goes up when the truck is locked (again only the rear door needs to be). At first this made no sense to me, but then I realized that when I turn the key in that back lock cylinder, it locks or unlocks the door before moving the window 3 seconds later (depending on the key turn direction respectively). This is accomplished mechanically via a rod to the door actuator mechanism.

I've only read of one other guy with this same problem but he didn't know what to do either. My best guess is it only applies to 02 4runners, and maybe 01s as well. Why Toyota, why did you change it?? :smash:
Does anyone know of a way I can get around this, other than using a double pole switch that also sends a separate signal to lock/unlock the doors prior to moving the window. Any suggestions are, of course, much appreciated!

Figured out a way to make this work on an 02 with one switch, no weird side affects.

The simplest way I found, like you said, is to use the OP mod but then also have that switch power relays that open/close the unlock detection switch in parallel (if you cross the circuits together you end up getting those weird behaviors) - "up" on the installed switch sends the "roll up" signal (OP mod) as well as opens the "unlock detection" circuit so that the ECU thinks the door is locked, regardless of whether it is or not in reality, then "down" on the installed switch would send the "roll down" signal and also short the "unlock detection" circuit so that the ECU thinks the door is unlocked no matter the actual lock status.

I ended up getting some 12V relays, but the key cylinder circuit runs at ~3V so there wasn't enough juice there to physically trip the relays (was scratching my head for a while there trying to figure that one out). Instead of just getting the right components, I tapped into the 12V "power" line going into the ECU (big blue wire), and had the installed switch connect that power to ground through one of two relays: one relay (SPDT) when tripped would break the "unlock detection" ground wire and connect the "roll up" wire to ground, the other relay (DPST) when tripped would connect both the "roll down" and the "unlock detection" to gnd.

This means the switch will roll up/down regardless of the lock status, and doesn't affect any of the normal operations. Put it in 3 weeks ago and haven't had any issues so far.

If you're still interested (a year later lol) I can post some pictures / diagram, it was pretty easy (once all the trial and error was done...).

 

[hockey4]

Hey guys - bringing back an old thread in search of some help. I drive a 1997 4runner and just did this rear window mod using a factory rear window switch off a 3rd gen . Installed, tested , it worked great (with hatch open). I used the OP’s directions and tapped into the three wires off the key switch. When the hatch is open the window rolls up and down using the switch. Once door is closed the window will not roll down from the inside despite the doors being locked or unlocked. If i push the up button you can hear the switch activate as if it wants to roll up - but since its up already it does nothing obviously. Once i get out and begin to roll down the window with the key - i can stick my hand inside and the switch works fine in both directions . Once the window is completely shut using the switch from the inside it wont go back down again. My guess is i need to tap into the opposite side of the relay. Does that make sense ? Help!

Zach from NOVA

 

[kendrick153]

Unlock in general or just passenger unlock switch causes back window to roll down?

So the unlocking triggering the window to go down drives me nuts. Therefore, I disconnected the Black/Blue wire connection to the new switch which basically put it back to the way all of the other 3rd gens are connected with this mod. That does make it where the doors have to be locked to make the back glass go up with the new switch and the doors have to be unlocked to make the back glass go down with the new switch. I camped in it last nigh and just used the key fob to put the locks in the correct position before using the new switch and it worked great.

I've also thought about a screen too. I have some old tents with the no-see-um mesh I could repurpose and thought about using some magnets to somehow attach it when needed.

GOAT - appreciate all your help here. You previous post said unlocking from the passenger side = back window roll's down. I can live that no problem. But this post seems to imply unlocking the car in general makes the back window roll down. That I can't live with. Which is it?

Thanks!

 

[JHUNT#3]

GOAT - appreciate all your help here. You previous post said unlocking from the passenger side = back window roll's down. I can live that no problem. But this post seems to imply unlocking the car in general makes the back window roll down. That I can't live with. Which is it?

Thanks!

My experience with this method (if I remember right) was any unlock switch that unlocked the trunk would cause the rear window to go all the way down - the driver side unlock, passenger side unlock, and the trunk key cylinder (even if turned just momentarily to unlock).

Tapping the "down" line into the blue/black wire crosses the "down" and "unlock detection" signals, which is why the down switch will work regardless of the trunk's actual lock status - but then if the trunk is actually unlocked you're also inadvertently giving the ECU the "down" signal as long as it's unlocked, so the window keeps rolling down.

You would need to sort of isolate the two signals to make this method work, so that "down switch" also activates "unlock detection", but not the other way around.

The alternative method I described in my last post is still working fine on my 02, functioning just like a normal window switch - just need to add a few relays.

 

[kendrick153]

My experience with this method (if I remember right) was any unlock switch that unlocked the trunk would cause the rear window to go all the way down - the driver side unlock, passenger side unlock, and the trunk key cylinder (even if turned just momentarily to unlock).

Tapping the "down" line into the blue/black wire crosses the "down" and "unlock detection" signals, which is why the down switch will work regardless of the trunk's actual lock status - but then if the trunk is actually unlocked you're also inadvertently giving the ECU the "down" signal as long as it's unlocked, so the window keeps rolling down.

You would need to sort of isolate the two signals to make this method work, so that "down switch" also activates "unlock detection", but not the other way around.

The alternative method I described in my last post is still working fine on my 02, functioning just like a normal window switch - just need to add a few relays.

Got it. Thanks for the follow up & clarification. Okay so I need to go with your method. Any other information / photos (?) of your fix/approach would be massively appreciated. (Sending good karma from one stranger over the internet to another).

 

[JHUNT#3]

Got it. Thanks for the follow up & clarification. Okay so I need to go with your method. Any other information / photos (?) of your fix/approach would be massively appreciated. (Sending good karma from one stranger over the internet to another).

Sure - as a disclaimer I'm not an electrician or anything, probably incorrect terminology and bad practices below... This is at least my understanding of what's going on and the mod worked for me with no side effects. The attached pdf walks through the FSM wiring diagram with the modifications then some pictures of where I tapped into the lines - you can tap into them wherever makes sense to you.

You're gonna want a SPDT "up" relay, and a DPST-NO "down" relay (I used two SPST-NO's for the "down" relay since that's what I had, and just jumped their power and GND's together so that they'd be tripped in parallel). You're also going to want an on-off-on switch as your in-the-car "window" switch. And some t-taps and straight connectors.

I used 18-gauge wire and this switch and relays:
Amazon.com: uxcell JD-1914 5 Pin DC 12V 40A Universal Car Vehicle Motor Fuse Relay Switch Power with Harness : Automotive
Amazon.com: EHDIS Car Relay 4 Pin 12v 40amp Spst Model No.: JD2912-1H-12VDC 40A 14VDC, Auto Switches & Starters，Pack of 2 : Everything Else
mxuteuk 5pcs Snap-in Round Momentary Rocker Switch Toggle Power SPDT (ON)-Off-(ON) Switch 3 Pin AC 250V 6A 125V 10A, Use for Car Auto Boat Household Appliances 1 Years Warranty MXU1-5-123: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I mounted the relays underneath the left window guide rail, sort of wedged under there with some cushioning material so that they're out of the way and don't vibrate. Drilled a few holes through the sheet metal and routed zip ties thru the relay tabs to mount in place - I'm sure there's a better way to do this.

Tap into the big blue "power" line going into the the ECU (marked 3) and route this to your switch. Route wires from the "up" and "down" terminals of the switch to the coils of their respective relays. The other ends of the coils should be routed to GND.

Tap into the key cylinder's G/R "up" (marked 4) and G/Y "down" (marked 5) lines and route to the normally-open poles of their respective relays, with the opposite ends of the poles going to GND. Since a lot of the relay poles are GND, just jump them all together, and tap just one spot into the GND line going into the ECU - I tapped into the GND line coming out of the key cylinder (marked 6) just because I already had it there from the OP mod.

You'll need to break the GND line going from the unlock detection switch to the ECU and route that GND line (marked 1) thru one of the NC poles of the "up" relay (the other pole connected to actual GND). Then tap into the B/K line (marked 2) going from the unlock detection switch to the ECU and route that to one of the NO poles of the "down" relay.

And that's pretty much it. Hopefully the diagram and pictures are straightforward.

The way it works, when the switch is neutral there is no power flowing to either relay, so they are in their normal state - the re-routed unlock detection switch's GND wire is connected to actual GND (so this switch functions as if you never broke that wire), the "up" and "down" lines aren't connected to GND (just like they wouldn't be otherwise), and the unlock detection signal wire isn't connected to ground (so no intentional "unlock" signal here). Everything functions as if there were no mod.

When you press "up" on the switch, you supply the ~9V from the ECU "power" line to the "up" relay, breaking the unlock detection GND to actual GND connection (ECU think's switch is open and trunk is locked, even if actual detection switch is closed) and connect "up" from the key cylinder to GND (telling the ECU to roll up the window). Once switch is released, relay deactivates and everything reverts to neutral state.

When you press "down" on the switch, you power the "down" relay, shorting/bypassing the unlock detection switch connecting the signal to GND (telling the ECU the trunk is unlocked, even if the actual detection switch is open) and "down" from the key cylinder to GND (telling the ECU to roll down the window). And then this reverts once the switch is released.

 

[kendrick153]

Sure - as a disclaimer I'm not an electrician or anything, probably incorrect terminology and bad practices below... This is at least my understanding of what's going on and the mod worked for me with no side effects. The attached pdf walks through the FSM wiring diagram with the modifications then some pictures of where I tapped into the lines - you can tap into them wherever makes sense to you.

You're gonna want a SPDT "up" relay, and a DPST-NO "down" relay (I used two SPST-NO's for the "down" relay since that's what I had, and just jumped their power and GND's together so that they'd be tripped in parallel). You're also going to want an on-off-on switch as your in-the-car "window" switch. And some t-taps and straight connectors.

I used 18-gauge wire and this switch and relays:
Amazon.com: uxcell JD-1914 5 Pin DC 12V 40A Universal Car Vehicle Motor Fuse Relay Switch Power with Harness : Automotive
Amazon.com: EHDIS Car Relay 4 Pin 12v 40amp Spst Model No.: JD2912-1H-12VDC 40A 14VDC, Auto Switches & Starters，Pack of 2 : Everything Else
mxuteuk 5pcs Snap-in Round Momentary Rocker Switch Toggle Power SPDT (ON)-Off-(ON) Switch 3 Pin AC 250V 6A 125V 10A, Use for Car Auto Boat Household Appliances 1 Years Warranty MXU1-5-123: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I mounted the relays underneath the left window guide rail, sort of wedged under there with some cushioning material so that they're out of the way and don't vibrate. Drilled a few holes through the sheet metal and routed zip ties thru the relay tabs to mount in place - I'm sure there's a better way to do this.

Tap into the big blue "power" line going into the the ECU (marked 3) and route this to your switch. Route wires from the "up" and "down" terminals of the switch to the coils of their respective relays. The other ends of the coils should be routed to GND.

Tap into the key cylinder's G/R "up" (marked 4) and G/Y "down" (marked 5) lines and route to the normally-open poles of their respective relays, with the opposite ends of the poles going to GND. Since a lot of the relay poles are GND, just jump them all together, and tap just one spot into the GND line going into the ECU - I tapped into the GND line coming out of the key cylinder (marked 6) just because I already had it there from the OP mod.

You'll need to break the GND line going from the unlock detection switch to the ECU and route that GND line (marked 1) thru one of the NC poles of the "up" relay (the other pole connected to actual GND). Then tap into the B/K line (marked 2) going from the unlock detection switch to the ECU and route that to one of the NO poles of the "down" relay.

And that's pretty much it. Hopefully the diagram and pictures are straightforward.

The way it works, when the switch is neutral there is no power flowing to either relay, so they are in their normal state - the re-routed unlock detection switch's GND wire is connected to actual GND (so this switch functions as if you never broke that wire), the "up" and "down" lines aren't connected to GND (just like they wouldn't be otherwise), and the unlock detection signal wire isn't connected to ground (so no intentional "unlock" signal here). Everything functions as if there were no mod.

When you press "up" on the switch, you supply the ~9V from the ECU "power" line to the "up" relay, breaking the unlock detection GND to actual GND connection (ECU think's switch is open and trunk is locked, even if actual detection switch is closed) and connect "up" from the key cylinder to GND (telling the ECU to roll up the window). Once switch is released, relay deactivates and everything reverts to neutral state.

When you press "down" on the switch, you power the "down" relay, shorting/bypassing the unlock detection switch connecting the signal to GND (telling the ECU the trunk is unlocked, even if the actual detection switch is open) and "down" from the key cylinder to GND (telling the ECU to roll down the window). And then this reverts once the switch is released.

Unreal generosity of your time - thanks so much. Will set aside some time to tackle this in a the next month or so. Expect a request for your venmo so I can send you beer money. Cheers.

 

[Fawrunner]

Fell victim to this mod and own and 02

This job has been a headache After struggling, running two wires through the hatch towards the rear cigarette plug for the switch, then being very confused on why it wasn’t working, I found this form realizing that it won’t work for a 01–02 4Runner. luckily, finding Jhunt#3 post I am now hoping there is a way to get it done. Just wondering after 2years if this mod has been successful for anyone else before investing in the relays. Willing to make a video with details to set it straight! I’m sure so many people are falling victim to this mod with an 01-02 runner. Thanks!

 

[nychawk]

Sure - as a disclaimer I'm not an electrician or anything, probably incorrect terminology and bad practices below... This is at least my understanding of what's going on and the mod worked for me with no side effects. The attached pdf walks through the FSM wiring diagram with the modifications then some pictures of where I tapped into the lines - you can tap into them wherever makes sense to you.

You're gonna want a SPDT "up" relay, and a DPST-NO "down" relay (I used two SPST-NO's for the "down" relay since that's what I had, and just jumped their power and GND's together so that they'd be tripped in parallel). You're also going to want an on-off-on switch as your in-the-car "window" switch. And some t-taps and straight connectors.

I used 18-gauge wire and this switch and relays:
Amazon.com: uxcell JD-1914 5 Pin DC 12V 40A Universal Car Vehicle Motor Fuse Relay Switch Power with Harness : Automotive
Amazon.com: EHDIS Car Relay 4 Pin 12v 40amp Spst Model No.: JD2912-1H-12VDC 40A 14VDC, Auto Switches & Starters，Pack of 2 : Everything Else
mxuteuk 5pcs Snap-in Round Momentary Rocker Switch Toggle Power SPDT (ON)-Off-(ON) Switch 3 Pin AC 250V 6A 125V 10A, Use for Car Auto Boat Household Appliances 1 Years Warranty MXU1-5-123: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I mounted the relays underneath the left window guide rail, sort of wedged under there with some cushioning material so that they're out of the way and don't vibrate. Drilled a few holes through the sheet metal and routed zip ties thru the relay tabs to mount in place - I'm sure there's a better way to do this.

Tap into the big blue "power" line going into the the ECU (marked 3) and route this to your switch. Route wires from the "up" and "down" terminals of the switch to the coils of their respective relays. The other ends of the coils should be routed to GND.

Tap into the key cylinder's G/R "up" (marked 4) and G/Y "down" (marked 5) lines and route to the normally-open poles of their respective relays, with the opposite ends of the poles going to GND. Since a lot of the relay poles are GND, just jump them all together, and tap just one spot into the GND line going into the ECU - I tapped into the GND line coming out of the key cylinder (marked 6) just because I already had it there from the OP mod.

You'll need to break the GND line going from the unlock detection switch to the ECU and route that GND line (marked 1) thru one of the NC poles of the "up" relay (the other pole connected to actual GND). Then tap into the B/K line (marked 2) going from the unlock detection switch to the ECU and route that to one of the NO poles of the "down" relay.

And that's pretty much it. Hopefully the diagram and pictures are straightforward.

The way it works, when the switch is neutral there is no power flowing to either relay, so they are in their normal state - the re-routed unlock detection switch's GND wire is connected to actual GND (so this switch functions as if you never broke that wire), the "up" and "down" lines aren't connected to GND (just like they wouldn't be otherwise), and the unlock detection signal wire isn't connected to ground (so no intentional "unlock" signal here). Everything functions as if there were no mod.

When you press "up" on the switch, you supply the ~9V from the ECU "power" line to the "up" relay, breaking the unlock detection GND to actual GND connection (ECU think's switch is open and trunk is locked, even if actual detection switch is closed) and connect "up" from the key cylinder to GND (telling the ECU to roll up the window). Once switch is released, relay deactivates and everything reverts to neutral state.

When you press "down" on the switch, you power the "down" relay, shorting/bypassing the unlock detection switch connecting the signal to GND (telling the ECU the trunk is unlocked, even if the actual detection switch is open) and "down" from the key cylinder to GND (telling the ECU to roll down the window). And then this reverts once the switch is released.

Greetings;

Thank you for your post, and awesome drawings. I am going to attempt this on my '02, is there gotchas, or things I should be aware of?

Also, just above your installed rocker switch is what looks like a clever inside rear hatch opener, could you please elaborate?

Thanks again!

Mike

 

[JHUNT#3]

Greetings;

Thank you for your post, and awesome drawings. I am going to attempt this on my '02, is there gotchas, or things I should be aware of?

Also, just above your installed rocker switch is what looks like a clever inside rear hatch opener, could you please elaborate?

Thanks again!

Mike

It's pretty straightforward - just make sure nothing interferes with the window. Disassembling more of the hatch than necessary will make access easier.

For the interior hatch release, I did something pretty similar to what this thread is showing (Interior Hatch Release (quick & dirty)). You can route the cable to anywhere it can be secured, and terminate it how you'd like. For the end, I slid the end of the cable between two pieces of scrap metal rivetted together sandwiching a loop of webbing, then swaged a ferrule on the end as a stopper - preferred the webbing loop but you have to get the length right to make sure the rivetted piece doesn't interfere with anything when pulling. 3D-printed a little rectangular grommet cuz why not.

This was the cable I got from amazon (Amazon.com).

You could also install an unlock/lock switch in the cargo area, routed from the driver's door unlock switch wires near the interior fuse box area - that with the window switch and interior hatch release gives you a pretty solid camping setup!

 

[nychawk]

It's pretty straightforward - just make sure nothing interferes with the window. Disassembling more of the hatch than necessary will make access easier.

You could also install an unlock/lock switch in the cargo area, routed from the driver's door unlock switch wires near the interior fuse box area - that with the window switch and interior hatch release gives you a pretty solid camping setup!

Finally ordered the SPDT and DPST-NO relays. The schematics provided are very helpful, does anyone have one showing where on the relays (85, 86, 87, etc) the wiring gets connected to?

Thanks again,

 

[circuitdh]

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For everyone with an 01-02 4runner, I spent some time and designed a module that makes adding a rear window switch super easy. I found my own solution 5 years ago and recently decided to make a video on how to do it because some others were asking. The switch doubles as an all door lock/unlock button as well! I'll make a full post sometime soon but take a look at the video!

Here is the link:

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