3rd Gen Speakers

alpine has a "powerbrick" its basicly a 50X4 rms amplifier i think you can pick them up on eba y for under 130$ and its tiny

nice, looking to fix my ruptured speakers and was looking at the ones posted by the op all of the reviews said you needed an amp that was decent as well, i'm not looking for anything special, just something that i can sing along with, ya know, haha
 
Here you go ->>>> 6-1/2" Speakers | Car Speakers | Car Audio | Car Audio, Video & GPS at Sonic Electronix <<<<- Click on "Up to 35 watts" in the left hand pane. These will work great with your existing headunit, but don't leave any room to upgrade later if you decide to add an amplifier.
Thanks!

Honestly I think the stock speakers sound pretty great with just a regular head-unit.
Hmm, interesting viewpoint. It is the complete lack of quality of the stock speakers on my '00 LTD (with brand new aftermarket HU) that set me on this quest. Those stock speakers are garbage compared to the stock speakers and stock head unit on my '02 Tacoma Xtra Cab. I don't need loud, I just want it to sound good. By sound good, I mean that want to be able to pick out all the instruments separately, with minimal distortion.
 
Planet Audio, and Jensen and gotten great results as well. You just can't convince me to spend 6-800 for an amp, when I can build a whole system minus a head-unit for that.

Agreed and btw I love planet audio. I've run several of their amps/subs and have nothing but great things to say about them.
 
[MENTION=80102]shadow247[/MENTION]

gonna bump this thread as I had a few questions.

Looking at getting some new door speakers for my birthday in a month. I really like the Infinity Reference speakers mentioned in the previous posts. I can't decide whether to just get those and an amp or to get speakers for the rear as well. I'm looking at spending around $200-300, maybe a little more. If I got rear speakers I would need a 4 channel amp correct?

I've currently got a mono block amp pushing two 12s that is wired with 4 gauge wiring. If i wired up another amp I would need to run another power wire through the firewall and to the battery or no? Would I just need to buy another wiring kit?

Last question. The Infinity's are rated at 90 watt RMS. Would an amp with an RMS of 100 per channel at 4 ohms be too much? Is it better to wire them at 4 ohms or 2 ohms? I'm going to be running these speakers at a pretty high volume so I don't want to run too much power and blow them and I want them to last for several years. If I just got the fronts would the rear speakers distort at higher volumes?

Thanks for any help you can provide.
 
I would say 100W RMS per channel is too much for reference series. If you have that much juice run kappas. Buy last years model on sale somewhere. I've run both over the years and the kappas last longer.

Get a 4 channel amp for all four doors.

You only need to run one true 4 Guage wire from the battery. I put a 4g distro block under the rear seat and it splits to each amp.

No need to buy a $500 amp. You can pick up a great Alpine 4-channel new on eBay for $200.

You should just wire the door speakers at 4-ohm per speaker. This allows you to run 4 channels with front and rear gain separate. I actually have left channel merged at the amp with a Y splitter and I move the gain manually. This means I don't have fade directly on the head unit but that doesn't matter to me because I adjust it (if ever) on the amp AND I only had to run a single high quality RCA cable to the amp. Not counting the cable for the sub, also a single RCA sub cable.
 
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I would say 100W RMS per channel is too much for reference series. If you have that much juice run kappas. Buy last years model on sale somewhere. I've run both over the years and the kappas last longer.

Get a 4 channel amp for all four doors.

You only need to run one true 4 Guage wire from the battery. I put a 4g distro block under the rear seat and it splits to each amp.

No need to buy a $500 amp. You can pick up a great Alpine 4-channel new on eBay for $200.

You should just wire the door speakers at 4-ohm per speaker. This allows you to run 4 channels with front and rear gain separate. I actually have left channel merged at the amp with a Y splitter and I move the gain manually. This means I don't have fade directly on the head unit but that doesn't matter to me because I adjust it (if ever) on the amp AND I only had to run a single high quality RCA cable to the amp. Not counting the cable for the sub, also a single RCA sub cable.


Thanks for the quick reply Brian.

Here's kinda what I'm looking at getting right now. Plan is to run a 2 channel amp for the front components and to just leave the rear stock. If the rears still distort at higher volumes then I would pick up some rear speakers and just power them my Kenwood.

Amp:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67927_Hifonics-BRX160.2.html

Components:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18913_Infinity-Reference-6030cs.html

I want to pick up a distro block like you mentioned and then I'd just need a wiring kit.

Another possibility would be to spend a little more now and buy a 4 channel amp. I probably wouldn't be able to buy the rear speakers now but would have the possibility to add some in the future. If I went the 4channel route what are the benefits of wiring the front and rear gain separate? Is it the fact that you'll only have to run 1 RCA to the head unit where there would normally be 2(for a total of 3 because I've got the F, R, and SW preamp outputs on the head unit) Are there any other benefits other than this?
 
Why don't you buy this ....

Buy the power pack listed below. Buy the front speakers and if you want to save money wait to buy and install the rear speakers until a few months later. Run the speaker wires and just cap the ends off with no speaker. Don't get a 2 channel amp and split it. Buy a real 4 channel amp. The quality is better for voice and the amp will be designed for 4 channel audio vs designed for subs.

$120 | 45W x 4 (high quality amp)
Alpine KTP 445A 4 Channel Power Amp Compact Class D 793276300959 KTP445A 4958043510788 | eBay

Or the universal (any head unit) one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpine-4-Ch...ower-Pack-Amplifier-Kit-KTP-445U/380862812357


$109 | Front Components
Infinity 6030CS 6 1 2" 2 Way Reference Series 6 5" Component Car Speakers System 050667110390 | eBay

///////////////////////////////////////////////////// ** STOP HERE IF YOU ARE SHY ON FUNDS ** //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

$100 | Rear 5" speakers (minor cutting will be required but its super easy)
Infinity Reference 5002IX 5 1 4" Coaxial Car Speakers New Pair with Warranty | eBay


Also Run New Speaker Wire ...
http://www.amazon.com/AH14100SR-14-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-feet/dp/B002HPNDDW/
** OR **
http://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Premium-Gauge-Speaker/dp/B006JSMBZE/


Also buy 2 of these if you have the cash ....
http://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-10435-Self-Adhesive-Deadener-Xtreme/dp/B00020CAUG/


$14 | 4 Gauge Distro Block
http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-Shoc-Krome-Gauge-Distribution-Block/dp/B001F6W4FW/
 
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Its all about the cash. If you can afford $120 for the Alpine Universal Power Pack and pair it with some 40-50W RMS rated speakers you will be pretty damn impressed. Especially if you dynamat the two front doors (all you really need) and run new speaker wires.

For ~ $350 total you can do the following:
* Alpine Universal Power Pack
* Infinity Reference Front Door Component Speakers (skip the rears for now but run the wiring)
* New 14G wires
* Dynamat door kit for each front door
 
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Its all about the cash. If you can afford $120 for the Alpine Universal Power Pack and pair it with some 40-50W RMS rated speakers you will be pretty damn impressed. Especially if you dynamat the two front doors (all you really need) and run new speaker wires.

For ~ $350 total you can do the following:
* Alpine Universal Power Pack
* Infinity Reference Front Door Component Speakers (skip the rears for now but run the wiring)
* New 14G wires
* Dynamat door kit for each front door

After looking at the Alpine Power Pack, I really like the size and usability of it. Seems like a good deal. I just wanna do this right the first time even if that means spending a little more money now because I know it will save me in the long run.

I'm just still slightly confused with one thing though. The Infinity component speakers RMS at 90W. The Alpine RMS at 45W. Does that mean I won't be getting the most from the Infinity's? Why not <a href="http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44493_Hifonics-ZRX600.4.html"> this</a> amp which RMS at 75Wx4? I'm not so much questioning your advice as much as I am trying to understand. With the Alpine I would not need the distro block correct?


Good stuff ^^^^^
Sealing up the doors with Dynamat or something similar will improve any speaker by more than 50%. It should not even be a consideration but a must do.

Thanks for the advice! Looks like I'm going to have to consider this as well haha.
 
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I'd say the amp #s from that amp LIE.

Lots of companies lie about wattage just Google it.

Alpine lies less generally speaking.

Also that amp does not state RMS wattage, just max wattage.. I even downloaded the manual PDF and checked.

A lot of people mistakenly believe that it's all about the numbers on the box. Its not. Companies lie all the time.

My 10 year old harmon kardon 5.1 stereo is rated only 65W RMS x 5 and yet it sounds louder and clearer than the Yamaha I bought which is "rated" (lol) at 100W RMS x 7 on the box. I returned it.

Go with a good name brand amplifier, not a Chinese knock off.
 
I suggest the power pack because on nearly every website it is sold it has 5/5 reviews.

And its cheap. Just note there are two models. You need the universal one.

I also say go alpine because I've owned about 6 car amps over last ten years and three cars AND the Alpines have had the best vocal sound.
 
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I suggest the power pack because on nearly every website it is sold it has 5/5 reviews.

And its cheap. Just note there are two models. You need the universal one.

I also say go alpine because I've owned about 6 car amps over last ten years and three cars AND the Alpines have had the best vocal sound.


Sounds great. Looks like this is what I'll be going with. Thanks again for all the help.
 
I've upgraded my HU to a pioneer , putting out 50x4w so prob 20-25w rms @4ohms??

The stock speakers are ok, but its definitely lacking . I don't want to add an amp to the setup yet, just upgrade speakers. The infinity reference 6,5" seems highly recommended so were pioneer and alpine. I'm between the alpines and infinity if I can get the same on all 4 doors.

I saw someone fit 6.5" alpines in the rear door. Has anyone got infinity reference in there and can share some pics?

Im not a huge audiophile so im open to comments and suggestions. Anyone has any recommendations otherwise?
 
I'd say the amp #s from that amp LIE.

Lots of companies lie about wattage just Google it.

Alpine lies less generally speaking.

Also that amp does not state RMS wattage, just max wattage.. I even downloaded the manual PDF and checked.

A lot of people mistakenly believe that it's all about the numbers on the box. Its not. Companies lie all the time.

My 10 year old harmon kardon 5.1 stereo is rated only 65W RMS x 5 and yet it sounds louder and clearer than the Yamaha I bought which is "rated" (lol) at 100W RMS x 7 on the box. I returned it.

Go with a good name brand amplifier, not a Chinese knock off.

Yeah, for speakers, ignore the numbers and go with reputation. And BTW, for rear door speakers, don't spend much if anything. I got a pair of 2-way pioneer 5.25's for $26 on amazon, they get great reviews. Don't bother with the $77 pair linked above.

Also, if you are just looking for value, I think the single best value you can get is not new speakers, or a sub, but it's the head unit. Get a decent aftermarket head unit first. You can get an excellent Pioneer HU with all the bells and whistles you need for $150 or less depending if you want HD Radio or Siruis. After that, get new 2 or 3-way front speakers, those references are probably fine (I got a great deal on some pioneer 3-way's years ago, so I run those). As folks have said, also replace the speaker wire. You can use cheap CCA wire from wal-mart or something like that, so a big spool for about $15. CCA is fine for speakers, not ok for a sub. Add a car door adapter for $20 for the 6.5's, and you have a totally decent system for under $300.

If you want more, then you should look into a sub and dedicated sub amp. The advice here on that I think was pretty good. Go with class D, it is way more efficient. Again, don't worry alot about the numbers, just be sure you pair an amp and sub with similar numbers. I have alot of respect for Alpine subs after torture testing some at work. I run an old JL audio amp and it has been solid for about 6 years (even got rained on once...).

Then the last thing you should buy is an amp for your speakers. If you replace the HU, then the new HU should have an internal amp up to 40-45W, which is plenty. I eventually got a separate 4-channel amp (again, class D), but it wasn't really necessary, probably not the best use of my Christmas gift... oh well. I used the HU internal amp for 6 years and was totally happy with it.
 
You can find really awesome, small footprint 5 channel amps for your application. It'll take care of everything, leave you more space freed up, and generally be more efficient without having to run (sometimes) an extra tax cable, and saves you money on the install side by not having to buy a power block to split up the power from the battery. I would look at buying a used alpine pdx series amp from a forum member, on DIYMA or car audio classifieds. Typically reputable members with a penchant for switching amps every 6 months or so.
 
Why don't you buy this ....

Buy the power pack listed below. Buy the front speakers and if you want to save money wait to buy and install the rear speakers until a few months later. Run the speaker wires and just cap the ends off with no speaker. Don't get a 2 channel amp and split it. Buy a real 4 channel amp. The quality is better for voice and the amp will be designed for 4 channel audio vs designed for subs.

$120 | 45W x 4 (high quality amp)
Alpine KTP 445A 4 Channel Power Amp Compact Class D 793276300959 KTP445A 4958043510788 | eBay

Or the universal (any head unit) one.
Alpine 4 Ch Universal Car Stereo Class D Power Pack Amplifier Kit KTP 445U | eBay


$109 | Front Components
Infinity 6030CS 6 1 2" 2 Way Reference Series 6 5" Component Car Speakers System 050667110390 | eBay


Not to resurect an old thread, but I'm looking at this exact setup. I have bought a Pioneer DEH-X8700BH which has 22 RMS per channel. I would like to avoid having an amp but if it is absolutely necessary then I will buy one. Here's what I currently have in my shopping cart:

Infinity Reference Components - $90

14AWG wire - 50ft - $10


If I need to get an amp I would get the Alpine KTP-445U. I have two questions if I get an amp; can I mount it behind the head unit in the dash? and will I need to buy an amp wiring kit: Amp wiring kit - $32


When I have to take the door panels off I'm going to install sound deadening material from home depot. How does all this sound and should I skip the amp?
 

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