3rd Gen T4R DIY Maintenance, Repair and Modification Videos

[stir_fry_boy]

Hey [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] sorry for the late response but here's a picture of that leaking seal I have. Seems to far in to be the cv boot. What do you think?

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That's the seal I was going to do a video on coming up. Unfortunately, I bought a commuter car (01' Honda Accord) and working on replacing the clutch right now. If you know how to get the CV out, then it's pretty easy from there. You just need something to pull the seal with, even a flat blade screwdriver could work just don't score/scratch the metal where the seal goes. I made a video of how to replace the CV axle in our trucks, take a look earlier in this thread.

 

[Tucson4runner]

Sweet I'll have to get in there when I get a chance. I just don't want to have it all disassembled and get stuck because I've never done this before. If no video pops up by the time I get to it I'll try it. Thanks guys!

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[LittleCaesar]

The two DIY ways I have used to get rid of softness in the brake pedal after any brake job is to either:
1. Bleed the brakes while the engine is running. It makes you work quickly.
2. Take the 4runner out and try to activate the ABS a couple of times. Then come back and bleed the brakes again.

 

[MarkamisPrime]

Great TBU video
If you take off the brake line c-clip to the spindle it makes installing the brake line into the caliper 10x easier.
For next time haha. [emoji1417]

 

[mtbtim]

Great TBU video
If you take off the brake line c-clip to the spindle it makes installing the brake line into the caliper 10x easier.
For next time haha. [emoji1417]

Now you tell me! It was a pain to get those threads started.

 

[fourfive]

[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] I noticed in your valve cover gasket video you didn't replace the 2 cam plugs in the front. I didn't either when I was helping a friend change out his valve cover gaskets because the timing plate/cover was in the way. Was that the case for you also?

 

[mtbtim]

[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] I noticed in your valve cover gasket video you didn't replace the 2 cam plugs in the front. I didn't either when I was helping a friend change out his valve cover gaskets because the timing plate/cover was in the way. Was that the case for you also?

As far as I know, there isn't cam plugs in the front. I don't remember seeing any reference in the FSM about cam plugs on the fronts of the heads. You have camshaft seals you might want to replace when doing a Timing Belt job. You'd have to remove the camshaft pulleys, use a seal puller or other DIY technique and then drive in a new one with a seal driver or some other MacGyver way.

 

[Tucson4runner]

[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] hey bud, did you have any excessive squeaking when you installed the new poly bushings in your steering rack? I had a shop put them on with a new rack and for about a month now it has not stopped squeaking. Sounds like a flock of geese are stuck under my runner.

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[fourfive]

As far as I know, there isn't cam plugs in the front. I don't remember seeing any reference in the FSM about cam plugs on the fronts of the heads. You have camshaft seals you might want to replace when doing a Timing Belt job. You'd have to remove the camshaft pulleys, use a seal puller or other DIY technique and then drive in a new one with a seal driver or some other MacGyver way.

I thought I saw something in the front that looked identical to the plugs in the rear but I may be mistaken.

I also noticed you listed 4 plugs in the parts list at the beginning of your video, is that correct? I only used 2 plugs in the rear which is the other reason why I thought there were 2 plugs in the front.

 

[fourfive]

hey bud, did you have any excessive squeaking when you installed the new poly bushings in your steering rack? I had a shop put them on with a new rack and for about a month now it has not stopped squeaking. Sounds like a flock of geese are stuck under my runner.

I've heard if poly bushings aren't properly torqued squeaking can become more apparent. I put a little grease on my steering rack bushings and torqued them to FSM specs and they haven't squeaked since I installed them about a year ago....I actually haven't experienced squeaking in any of the poly bushings I've installed so far. I've read that some don't grease the steering rack bushings because there's not supposed to be any movement there. If you haven't already, make sure the steering rack bushing bolts are properly torqued.

 

[Tucson4runner]

I'll check the torque on them and see if that fixes it. Thanks!

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[mtbtim]

I thought I saw something in the front that looked identical to the plugs in the rear but I may be mistaken.

I also noticed you listed 4 plugs in the parts list at the beginning of your video, is that correct? I only used 2 plugs in the rear which is the other reason why I thought there were 2 plugs in the front.

Listing 4 cam plugs was a mistake on our part. I made a correction in the video description but in order to correct it in the actual video, we'd have to delete the original video and upload another one with the correction and then we'd lose all the comments and questions.

 

[mtbtim]

[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] hey bud, did you have any excessive squeaking when you installed the new poly bushings in your steering rack? I had a shop put them on with a new rack and for about a month now it has not stopped squeaking. Sounds like a flock of geese are stuck under my runner.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

The shop probably shoved them in without any lubrication. Sorry, couldn't resist. Mine don't squeak. I do here a little creaking sometimes but I think that is coming from the poly sway bar bushings rather that the steering rack.

I lubricated all my poly bushings with some Mission Automotive Silicone Paste.
https://www.amazon.com/Dielectric-G...-1&keywords=Mission+Automotive+silicone+paste

To fix it, you might have to unbolt the steering rack, pull out the bushings, lube em up really good and then reinsert.

 

[mtbtim]

I've heard if poly bushings aren't properly torqued squeaking can become more apparent. I put a little grease on my steering rack bushings and torqued them to FSM specs and they haven't squeaked since I installed them about a year ago....I actually haven't experienced squeaking in any of the poly bushings I've installed so far. I've read that some don't grease the steering rack bushings because there's not supposed to be any movement there. If you haven't already, make sure the steering rack bushing bolts are properly torqued.

That's interesting some say not to grease the steering rack bushings. I gather all the people that subscribe to that belief all have very squeaky steering racks. The kits even come with lubrication for the bushings and tell you to lubricate them. The steering rack is going to have some movement regardless. That's what the bushings allow for. When the bushings wear out, you then get excessive movement which you don't want. So, would you rather have movement with noise or without noise? I like the no noise option.

 

[fourfive]

Listing 4 cam plugs was a mistake on our part. I made a correction in the video description but in order to correct it in the actual video, we'd have to delete the original video and upload another one with the correction and then we'd lose all the comments and questions.

Cool, good to know I didn't miss anything then. Was a very solid video.

 

[ToyotaBrah]

Hey Tim, just wanted to say your videos and posts on this forum have been quite helpful. Thanks for your hard-work.

I have a question about bleeding brakes. With the 2001-2002 4Runners being equipped with the brake booster gizmo device, are you supposed to leave the ignition in the "on" position while bleeding the rear brakes? And, should I leave the master cylinder cap on while I am bleeding the brakes, or leave it off?

And, as far as brake fluid goes, is the Toyota brake fluid the same grade that's at the auto parts store? Would I be fine with going with generic DOT 3?

 

[mtbtim]

Hey Tim, just wanted to say your videos and posts on this forum have been quite helpful. Thanks for your hard-work.

I have a question about bleeding brakes. With the 2001-2002 4Runners being equipped with the brake booster gizmo device, are you supposed to leave the ignition in the "on" position while bleeding the rear brakes? And, should I leave the master cylinder cap on while I am bleeding the brakes, or leave it off?

And, as far as brake fluid goes, is the Toyota brake fluid the same grade that's at the auto parts store? Would I be fine with going with generic DOT 3?

Yes, for the 01-02 models have the ignition key in the "on" position to power the brake booster. Start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way back towards the master cylinder. So, bleed the passenger rear first, then the driver rear, then the passenger front and finally the driver front.

We kept the master cylinder cap on. It just made sense since that's how the system operates normally. When people use power bleeders, they're connecting to where the cap connects too, closing off the system, so again, it seems more logical to have the system closed off here. Does it make a difference? Probably not. What you definitely want to avoid is draining the master cylinder of fluid and now you are forced to go through the procedure to bleed the master cylinder of air. Just keep an eye on the master cylinder while doing the bleeding and keep topping it off.

Make sure you give detailed instructions to anyone helping you with the brake pedal pumping and holding. They need to pump the pedal, hold pressure, and then you open the bleeder. As the pedal sinks to the floor, they hold the pedal down until you close off the bleeder and tell them to pump the pedal again. If they lift the pedal while you have the bleeder open, you can then suck air back into the system.

Any Dot 3 is find in my book. You don't have to use Toyota brake fluid.

Good luck!

 

[MarkamisPrime]

Yes, for the 01-02 models have the ignition key in the "on" position to power the brake booster. Start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way back towards the master cylinder. So, bleed the passenger rear first, then the driver rear, then the passenger front and finally the driver front.



We kept the master cylinder cap on. It just made sense since that's how the system operates normally. When people use power bleeders, they're connecting to where the cap connects too, closing off the system, so again, it seems more logical to have the system closed off here. Does it make a difference? Probably not. What you definitely want to avoid is draining the master cylinder of fluid and now you are forced to go through the procedure to bleed the master cylinder of air. Just keep an eye on the master cylinder while doing the bleeding and keep topping it off.



Make sure you give detailed instructions to anyone helping you with the brake pedal pumping and holding. They need to pump the pedal, hold pressure, and then you open the bleeder. As the pedal sinks to the floor, they hold the pedal down until you close off the bleeder and tell them to pump the pedal again. If they lift the pedal while you have the bleeder open, you can then suck air back into the system.



Any Dot 3 is find in my book. You don't have to use Toyota brake fluid.



Good luck!

Just to add:
DO NOT let the pedal go to the floor
I usually put my left foot underneath the pedal to stop it from going too far.
If you do let it hit the floor, you run the risk of rupturing the plunger inside your master cylinder. Just speaking from experience, and as expensive as those masters can be, it only took me one time to learn that.

 

[mtbtim]

Just to add:
DO NOT let the pedal go to the floor
I usually put my left foot underneath the pedal to stop it from going too far.
If you do let it hit the floor, you run the risk of rupturing the plunger inside your master cylinder. Just speaking from experience, and as expensive as those masters can be, it only took me one time to learn that.

I've heard of this happening but never experienced it. Maybe it's a case of the master cylinder being on its way out anyway. It's also interesting to note the FSM mentions nothing about not letting the pedal fall all the way to the floor when bleeding the brakes. Anyway, I guess it doesn't hurt to do this extra precaution.

 

[ToyotaBrah]

Yes, for the 01-02 models have the ignition key in the "on" position to power the brake booster. Start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way back towards the master cylinder. So, bleed the passenger rear first, then the driver rear, then the passenger front and finally the driver front.

We kept the master cylinder cap on. It just made sense since that's how the system operates normally. When people use power bleeders, they're connecting to where the cap connects too, closing off the system, so again, it seems more logical to have the system closed off here. Does it make a difference? Probably not. What you definitely want to avoid is draining the master cylinder of fluid and now you are forced to go through the procedure to bleed the master cylinder of air. Just keep an eye on the master cylinder while doing the bleeding and keep topping it off.

Make sure you give detailed instructions to anyone helping you with the brake pedal pumping and holding. They need to pump the pedal, hold pressure, and then you open the bleeder. As the pedal sinks to the floor, they hold the pedal down until you close off the bleeder and tell them to pump the pedal again. If they lift the pedal while you have the bleeder open, you can then suck air back into the system.

Any Dot 3 is find in my book. You don't have to use Toyota brake fluid.

Good luck!

Awesome. Thank you, Tim!

Just to add:
DO NOT let the pedal go to the floor
I usually put my left foot underneath the pedal to stop it from going too far.
If you do let it hit the floor, you run the risk of rupturing the plunger inside your master cylinder. Just speaking from experience, and as expensive as those masters can be, it only took me one time to learn that.

Noted! Thanks!