3rd Gen T4R DIY Maintenance, Repair and Modification Videos

Did you guys do a brake hardware kit as well?

No, we reused the springs, automatic adjuster, automatic adjuster plate, parking brake lever, parking brake cable, and bell crank. Jordan replaced his wheel cylinders on an earlier occasion so those were in good shape too.

We are spoiled California Bay Area people with no rust issues so everything was in great shape.
 
Just wanted to say I love the videos.
Not only because they are detailed, informative and entertaining, but because where else can i see a San Jose native testing their tranny temps on beautiful Redwooded highway 17?
I grew up in San Jose but live in AZ now. My first toyota truck was a T100 purchased from Stevens Creek Toyota. I still miss that baby.
Keep up the good work in the vids!
 
How is this thread not stickied?!? (Or did I miss it??)

Thanks for the vote to have our thread stickied. You're not the only one that thinks it's worthy. [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have been making videos because we like to help people out. Shops charge very high labor rates and often mess up the jobs people pay them to do. The more people we can inspire to tackle their own repairs, the better. If our thread was stickied to the first page of the 3rd Gen section of this forum, I know more people would find our videos and benefit from them. I'm on the forum regularly referencing our videos when the opportunity arises but I know there's tons of 3rd Gen owners that still don't know our YouTube channel exists.

Sean or I can't be the ones pushing for this because it wouldn't seem right since we actually make a little revenue from our channel. Just so people know, most of the money, which isn't much, is going right back into the channel to compensate for tool purchases and other equipment like camera upgrades.

If people think our thread should be stickied, somebody else has to do the campaigning for us. Thanks!
 
Starter Replacement

If you want the more informative video on how to replace a starter on our trucks, check out Tim's video. This video is more for entertainment but you can get the jist of the whole job with this, I feel. Enjoy the bloopers at the end. Cheers!

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I am curious Tim how you and Sean will be attacking the crank bolt and tensioner removal for the TB/H20 pump video.

Probably 1 of 2 ways:

Remove the radiator so you have enough room for an impact gun

Get a breaker bar on the bolt and rest it ON the driver side frame or UNDER the passenger side frame and bump the starter

as for the tensioner thats just two 12 mm bolts. No problems there.
 
[MENTION=122062]sambishop[/MENTION]

Cool video dude! That camera quality is great! What are you using for your production?
 
I am curious Tim how you and Sean will be attacking the crank bolt and tensioner removal for the TB/H20 pump video.

For the crank bolt, I have a Dewalt impact gun and I also have the specialty Schley tool that you connect to a breaker bar. I will not be using the starter bump technique but we will mention it as an option along with the many custom made crank pulley holding tools people make. Because many people don't own impact guns, I will probably break it free with the Schley tool and breaker bar.

For the tensioner, I'm going to use the technique of a long ratchet extension and swivel to get at that back tension bolt instead of removing the AC compressor and bracket.
 
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I was wondering if you would have enough room for the Dewalt to fit, even with the radiator removed.

I have used my Dewalt to break loose a Honda Civic crank bolt so it should in theory be able to remove the one on the 5vz.....
 
I was wondering if you would have enough room for the Dewalt to fit, even with the radiator removed.

I have used my Dewalt to break loose a Honda Civic crank bolt so it should in theory be able to remove the one on the 5vz.....

I'm thinking the Dewalt won't fit but I'll soon find out. I bought that specialty Schley tool for $70 via Amazon. I knew there were homemade options, but like you, I love buying tools so I couldn't resist owing the special Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool. A 2x4 with 2 bolts sticking through it just didn't seem that sexy to me. But, I understand the MacGyver way of things and appreciate the American ingenuity that goes into these homemade tools.

I"m looking forward to this repair. This is the #1 requested video Sean and I have gotten. There are other timing belt videos out there for our engines. They're decent but we're going to take it to the next level. Like always, this video won't be short because we're going to make sure we cover all aspects of this repair and hopefully give confidence to a lot more DIY mechanics to tackle this job.
 
If you want the more informative video on how to replace a starter on our trucks, check out Tim's video. This video is more for entertainment but you can get the jist of the whole job with this, I feel. Enjoy the bloopers at the end. Cheers!

Thanks Sammy. Entertaining as always.
 
I'm thinking the Dewalt won't fit but I'll soon find out. I bought that specialty Schley tool for $70 via Amazon. I knew there were homemade options, but like you, I love buying tools so I couldn't resist owing the special Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool. A 2x4 with 2 bolts sticking through it just didn't seem that sexy to me. But, I understand the MacGyver way of things and appreciate the American ingenuity that goes into these homemade tools.

I"m looking forward to this repair. This is the #1 requested video Sean and I have gotten. There are other timing belt videos out there for our engines. They're decent but we're going to take it to the next level. Like always, this video won't be short because we're going to make sure we cover all aspects of this repair and hopefully give confidence to a lot more DIY mechanics to tackle this job.

There are many tools that aid in this job but if you and Sean decide to change the cam and crank seals, this tool is a must along with a freezer:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K

This one is handy for removing plastic clips, very handy, on my third one:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-35260-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=36MYPNVS1C50RTN5NZWC
 
[MENTION=122062]sambishop[/MENTION]

Cool video dude! That camera quality is great! What are you using for your production?

Hey, Sean. I use a Nikon d7100 with a 50mm lens. It's very limiting as there is no zoom but it gives good quality when things are in focus.
 
There are many tools that aid in this job but if you and Sean decide to change the cam and crank seals, this tool is a must along with a freezer:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K

This one is handy for removing plastic clips, very handy, on my third one:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-35260-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=36MYPNVS1C50RTN5NZWC

I already own that Lisle seal puller. Probably from a former recommendation from you. I also own a much fancier crank and camshaft seal puller kit. I plan on showcasing the Lisle tool as well as my fancy kit when we replace Sean's camshaft and crankshaft seals.

Thanks for the suggestion for the plastic fastener removal tool. I just ordered it.
 
Toyota Timing Belt Replacement (PART 1) for 3.4L V6 5VZ-FE

Hey Dudes,

[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I finally did a timing belt job. This job got pushed back several times but we're stoked to finally publish this video. It's a long video but I think you'll find it very informative and will hopefully help you do your own timing belt job when the time comes.

**Please read the video description because I recently learned two optional techniques to get the timing belt on easier and I added them to the video description. Getting the belt on was a pain in the ass so a technique that would make the job easier is definitely worth exploring.

So, grab a couple beers and a bucket of popcorn and enjoy some Toyota Time with Timmy the Toolman and Sean. Enjoy the Show!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vHC46ypHxWc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Thanks, good timing (pun intended). Tonight I was watching worsethanchiggers Youtube video on the head gasket job. I remember he said the thermostat should go in with the jiggle valve up at 12 o'clock so the air can get through. Is he wrong? I'd give you the location in his videos where he said this but I can't find it.

I may be doing this job along with my head gasket while I'm in there. The coolant lines to the rear seat heaters underneath the car rusted through and my mom ran out of coolant and overheated it (terrible design Toyota! What a way to ruin an engine!!!) This was a few years ago. It still runs OK but the exhaust is white and just smells like burning coolant. No bubbles in the radiator on turning over.

Edit: 20:50 of this video

 
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Thanks, good timing (pun intended). Tonight I was watching worsethanchiggers Youtube video on the head gasket job. I remember he said the thermostat should go in with the jiggle valve up at 12 o'clock so the air can get through. Is he wrong? I'd give you the location in his videos where he said this but I can't find it.

I may be doing this job along with my head gasket while I'm in there. The coolant lines to the rear seat heaters underneath the car rusted through and my mom ran out of coolant and overheated it (terrible design Toyota! What a way to ruin an engine!!!) This was a few years ago. It still runs OK but the exhaust is white and just smells like burning coolant. No bubbles in the radiator on turning over.

Edit: 20:50 of this video

I watched that guys video series on the head gasket repair. The guy did an excellent job. However, he was wrong about the jiggle valve position and I'm pretty sure somebody commented on the video and corrected him. The jiggle valve needs to be pointing downward in the 6 o'clock position. Having it in the 12 o'clock position will make you run around 10 degrees hotter.
 
Thanks for all the content and information Tim and Sean, it is much appreciated!

Saying hello from Sacramento.

Can we please get this thread stickied?
 

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