3rd gen upper rear shock mount rusted

[Scramble]

[MENTION=7105]Scramble[/MENTION] I did the same thing. Cleaned it all up that needed and applied por15 with brush. Afterwards I applied fluid with with a brush in those little cracks. Highly recommend that. The grease will definitely repel water and keep it rust out if you cleaned it good.

Nice! I used the Eastwood internal frame coating with the 360* nozzle or the spray can for all of the hard to reach places. I didnt want brush strokes or Black on the body. It makes it too hard to see dirt or rust coming back through. It's dark enough working under there. I brushed on a quart Eastwood Black to the frame & cross members, sanded out the brush strokes & sprayed VHT semi gloss Black roll bar & chassis paint. I did both sides of the frame from the LCA mounts back. It looks smooth & stock!

PS: Everything was pressure washed, then after sanding/wire wheeling I used POR15 degreaser for the final wipe down before painting.

 

[kolelt]

Nice! I used the Eastwood internal frame coating with the 360* nozzle or the spray can for all of the hard to reach places. I didnt want brush strokes or Black on the body. It makes it too hard to see dirt or rust coming back through. It's dark enough working under there. I brushed on a quart Eastwood Black to the frame & cross members, sanded out the brush strokes & sprayed VHT semi gloss Black roll bar & chassis paint. I did both sides of the frame from the LCA mounts back. It looks smooth & stock!

PS: Everything was pressure washed, then after sanding/wire wheeling I used POR15 degreaser for the final wipe down before painting.

Yeah I did Eastwood internal frame coating in the body cavities also. See with the brush, I feel like you can get between the body and the piece vs spraying. And if you get a decent brush. Once it dries you can't even tell. After all. It's under the truck. But I'm sure it will be fine for you.

 

[Scramble]

Yeah I did Eastwood internal frame coating in the body cavities also. See with the brush, I feel like you can get between the body and the piece vs spraying. And if you get a decent brush. Once it dries you can't even tell. After all. It's under the truck. But I'm sure it will be fine for you.

Maybe the POR15 dries smoother than the Eastwood. I tried foam brushes & different poly brushes. I know it's under the truck but when I see other people's hack jobs it bothers me. Especially on the axle housing, some people's paint jobs look terribly bumpy with the glossy finish over rust. With my 8 wraps you can see my axle housing clearly from behind & I want it to look better than stock. I think it came out nice.

 

[kolelt]

I got my axle sand blasted. Then used chassis saver in a spray gun only used brush under the body in tight areas.

 

[MikeD4Runner]

3rd gen upper rear shock mount

My right rear shock just busted busted through as well, what a racket. I took it to the frame shop and I'll see what they come back. But good to know you can buy a shock mount, does that get welded into place? anyone have a link to the OEM part needed? Thanks Mike D

 

[rkntoy]

My right rear shock just busted busted through as well, what a racket. I took it to the frame shop and I'll see what they come back. But good to know you can buy a shock mount, does that get welded into place? anyone have a link to the OEM part needed? Thanks Mike D

Good Toyota parts places have diagrams you can use to get part numbers.

51302-35040

or

51301-35030

 

[Offroading RN]

I called the local Toyota dealer and they said that it was a part of the frame and that I couldn't get that part, would you be able to point me in the right direction as to a part number? Thanks in advance for any consideration

 

[Offroading RN]

Thank you very much, I've been trying to find these part numbers for a while now.

 

[MaineRunna]

I have airbags in the coils, other than ride is this this safe to drive with only 1 rear shock ?

It's mostly safe for a short time. The vehicle will handle a little differently especially in a sudden maneuver and eventually the shock will punch a hole in the floor. Good to know you can buy that mount from Toyota. You might be able to cut out the dish that the shock mounts in and fabricate a similarly dished circle to weld in there from the bottom. The body is actually quite easy to take off and can be done in a few hours IF you have a way to pick it up. JFYI A very experienced Toyota tech told me yesterday that he can change a Tacoma or Tundra frame in 15 hours and a really rusty one in 20.

 

[hilltowner]

This thread helped me find Toyota replacement parts for upper spring/shock mounts. Thanks guys.

Here are the Toyota part numbers:

1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner Left Rear Support Bracket - 51302-35040

1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner (Right Rear) Support Bracket - 51301-35030

Prices vary by dealer. I ordered mine from toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com, Attleboro MA.

$102.83 Left Rear Support Bracket
$132.40 Right Rear Support Bracket
+ shipping
5/11/2021

 

[Trehawke]

No. Don't take this the wrong way. But it's stupid to do so. You have no shock basically. And if you continue to drive. It could punch through the body! The shock is attached to the axle. And the axle going up and down over bumps is pretty intense! Fix it. You could get this done in a weekend.

You need:

Grinder
Grinding wheels ALOT
Cutting wheels ALOT
Safety glasses.
OEM replacement part
Paint/rust preventatives
Fluid film
New shock hardware to refresh it
Welded ( or a friend with one )

I could be missing few things. But please don't drive it like this.

I have a similar problem on my '98 limited with 440k miles. I was hearing some knocking in rear drivers side wheel well and though it was just a worn shock bushing. If only I was so lucky. After a closer inspection I found that the entire mount is pulling away from the body. The welds on top of the round crossmember had popped loose which caused appears to have caused the mount shift and tear the frame at the weld joint and crack the mount itself in the rear. I haven't been able to find a local auto body shop or welder that said they do this kind of work. Does this look repairable or does this need to be cut out and replaced with a new mount? The metal on the mount itself is in good shape rust wise. Someone suggested that I take it to a muffler shop to do the welds. Just wondering how I can get this fixed. I've done some minor hobby welding with my Lincoln 140 MIG welder but this seems far more substantial. Thanks in advance for any assistance.

 

[brillo_76]

How I fixed it on one of mine was to replace the inner rail and beef it up then cut a hole in the body to get the front to bolt a plate down. Once you get it solid again you have to beef up the welds. I also slid a pipe into the tube cross member to give you something to weld with. You can see one way of doing it by going through my build thread. I wouldn't replace it. I would just get it to stay in place. Kinda harder to do with a 110 mig welder but it can be done. A 220 mig welder will do well for that project as it gets hotter. If it get thin around the shocks You can weld plates on the outside of the frame and outboard those..

 

[TheShockerAL]

I got the plates 2 years ago after moving from MI to AL.

No one. And I mean NO ONE here in AL wants to do this job. I dont have the time, nor welding skills to do it.

Sold 1 of my 3 3rd gens last year. because I didn't have the time energy or funds to rebuild the motor.

Now it looks like I'm gonna end up dumping my 01 hunting rig because of damn rust.

Sigh. How aggravating.

 

[brillo_76]

I got the plates 2 years ago after moving from MI to AL.

No one. And I mean NO ONE here in AL wants to do this job. I dont have the time, nor welding skills to do it.

Sold 1 of my 3 3rd gens last year. because I didn't have the time energy or funds to rebuild the motor.

Now it looks like I'm gonna end up dumping my 01 hunting rig because of damn rust.

Sigh. How aggravating.

Yes the south freaks about rust. Meanwhile, that's an easy repair on the rust belt. I repaired a few of those on my beaters.