3rd member removal difficulties

Darryle

New member
I have a 99 T4R that I am trying to remove the 3rd member from to rebuild. I have axles out, all the bolts out of the center section and I cannot get it out, it will slide out about 1- 1 1/2", but that is it. I tried several times and I am beyond frustrated. I know I am just not doing it right.

I have the vehicle supported on jack stands under the axle, I did once consider that I may need to support it on the frame and allow the axle to hang freely, because it seems the center sections wants to roll out towards the fuel tank.

This is my second T4R, we bought the wife a V8 Sport and it has been phenomenal, this one has been a money pit.

Thanks for any tips for a new guy!

Darryle
 
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With all the nuts removed there shouldn't be anything left holding it in. Should pull right out. Having the axle supported by stands shouldn't matter.

Is it an open or E-Locked 3rd? I don't think it matters, but I vaguely remember reading that someone had difficulty removing an E-locked 3rd until they locked it. Wasn't an issue when I pulled my 3rd tho.
 
Open and 2wd

I noticed a cutout on the bottom of the housing for the ring gear, it is a tight fit.

I will also need to find someone in DFW to overhaul it, there were quite a bit of metal shavings, chips and powder on the drain plug. There was also quite a bit of powder in the bottom of the axle tubes. I originally thought the howling was from a bad axle bearing, but I am afraid it is in the center section.

We bought this for the daughter, it looks great, runs and drives great, but developed a howl and leaking seal within a week of buying it, less than 300 miles driven.

I really appreciate the help, like my grandad always said, "You're not holding your mouth right son"
 
As long as you have the axles out far enough the 3rd member shoukd pull right out. I have pulled more than a few toyota 3rd members to reseal ect and hqve not had any issues other than silicon not wanting to let go.
 
have you pulled the axle shafts all the way out?

dont spend the money on overhauling the 3rd if its 2wd, just buy a 3rd member from a wrecking yard and swap it out. should be like $200 or less. completely rebuilding one would cost $400+ to do it correctly
 
While the diff is seated all of the way into the housing rotate the pinion a few degrees then try it, if that doesn't work rotate it a little more. I remember the lock tabs on the nuts getting hung up on my housing while removing and installing my third.
 
Axles are completely out, I had the bearings, abs ring, and outer seals replaced yesterday, was replacing inner seals when I decided to go ahead drain the gear oil, that is when I found the metal shavings/chips on the drain plug. It was by shear accident that I am where I am, normally I wouldn't have done the drain until the axles were back in.

I would have been certain the howl was in the axle bearing, simply because the leak and how began simultaneously. I learned a valuable lesson, I am just glad it wasn't to late.

Guys, I really appreciate all the advice.

Darryle
 
hdont spend the money on overhauling the 3rd if its 2wd, just buy a 3rd member from a wrecking yard and swap it out. should be like $200 or less. completely rebuilding one would cost $400+ to do it correctly

Agreed, and since it's 2wd you don't have to be concerned about matching gear ratios with the front axle.
 
It came out fairly easy once I rotated the pinion and tried it again.

I called around to try and find a center section, no such luck. I said screw it and bit the bullet, carried it to Fort Worth Gear and Axle to have them overhaul it. The pinion bearings were toasted, front bearing was pitted and inner was starting.

$465 for complete overhaul, but it was worth it. I'll have it back Wednesday and stab Thursday morning after work.

I really appreciate all the help, it was very frustrating lying seeing it only come so far, but not knowing why.


Thanks Darryle
 

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