3vze vacuum hoses and check valves

[bomhour]

I bought my 93 3vze back in October. Since then I did the head gaskets blah blah blah blah blah. Not fun but I got her running. drove it all winter but only around town never on the highway for more than 5 minutes. So spring comes along and I pack her full of camping gear and three friends and head off to the Black Hills from Montana. There are a couple of real doozies between here and there, hills I mean. Of course, she gets pretty hot and we end up turning around. So I decided to investigate it further and throw a few more bucks at her. So far I have replaced the air filter and wires per suggestion around the net. While I was at it, I decided now would be a good time to pull the plenum and do the coolant temp sender and sensor. I put her back together and now the darn thing wont start. I did all the wires in order. broke a couple of brittle plastic retainers but they are snug. Back in October I had to jerry rigg all the vaccum hoses as you can see in the image here. She has been running around town ok like this for 7 months.

http://flic.kr/p/bVZnqw



So, with all that in mind, should I just redo all the vacuum hoses using the diagram on the underside of the hood? Do I also have to replace all the little check valves and vacuum switching valves? truck has also been throwing fault codes 14 and 71. I have the EGR disconnected with the resistor method of bypass which i attribute to code 71. Not sure what 14 means..."IGFsignal from igniter is not input to ECM for 6 consecutive ignition. Anyone got an advice on what to do next. I just want to fix the darn thing so I can sell her. Cant sell a truck to people that might overheat if you drive more than 10 minutes on the highway. And now it doesn't run at all. So I think I need to redo the vacuum hoses 1st. I'm just wondering what that will cost me to do it all correctly and what the best reference might be? I was planning on not fixing the EGR since we dont have emissions tests here in Montana.

Sorry for the rant but I've had it up to me eyeballs with this thing.

thanks for your advice.

 

[Bad_Vision]

yes replace the vacuum hoses and the put a new ignitor.
did you reset the computer and it still wont start?
even if they dont do emissions checks the ECU still relies on data from the EVAP system and if your did some kinda circuit bypass who knows what the computer is doing.

 

[bomhour]

yes replace the vacuum hoses and the put a new ignitor.
did you reset the computer and it still wont start?
even if they dont do emissions checks the ECU still relies on data from the EVAP system and if your did some kinda circuit bypass who knows what the computer is doing.

Are you referring to this 1993-1995 Toyota 4Runner Ignition Module – Standard LX-787 - Ignition Module - Standard

That's 500 bucks that you just told be to spend correct? I'm gonna wait for a second opinion.

I was under the impression that the ECU would be reset due to the negative battery terminal being removed during work.

You vote that I redo all the vacuum hoses. What about the vacuum switching valves and check valves that the hoses run to? Do I need to replace them or is there a way to clean them?

thanks for your reply.

 

[Bad_Vision]

get a copy of Factory Service Manual it will show you how to test every item you listed so then you know whats bad and in need of replacement.
and yes i told you to buy a part that you may need its up to you to test it and check if you really do need it.
yes disconnecting the battery does reset the ECU
i have never had to replace the vacuum solenoid they typically don't go bad but it is possible.
if your truck is not starting did you test the spark output? how about the fuel system is it in spec for pressure? is the timing right?
you have a lot of work to do testing your control sensors like TPS AFM and Ignition control system. if you dont test these items we cant help you fix your problem, i would start by testing the AFM then the Ignition then the TPS after thats all done put a timing light on it and if its timed right then youll be left with the computer. you v6 will run with the EVAP system in failure but youll get horrible gas mileage.
happy hunting and good luck.

 

[bomhour]

Ok. I wasnt trying to be rude...just a little shocked at the price tag on that part. Thank you Bad Vision for those tips. I went to a junk yard and got a ignitor and, what I think is the AFM. I installed the ignitor first and did not get her to turn over until I installed the new AFM. Now she will start but runs rough and then passes out. So, i'm pretty sure it was the Air Flow Meter. I think it probably time to look into the vacuum hoses. I will report back later on my progress. Thanks again.

 

[bomhour]

Reporting back...I did the timing light test and found not spark. I put in an salvaged AFM and Ignitor which corrected that issue and hopefully fault code 14 (IGF signal is not input). Now she will turn over but will only run really rough and then stall out after about 3-5 seconds unless you really gun it and that wont keep it alive for much longer. At this point, I think the fuel and spark are in correct working order because the truck will start. Now I am looking at the Air. So I replaced the vacuum hoses and switch which I also found at the salvage yard. None of that helped out with the truck not wanting to run. Then I started looking for other vacuum leaks. I found a bunch of hoses that were cracked and splitting at their ends coming from the air plenum and passenger side of the engine. Some were for air, some for coolant. I did not notice any gas line leaks or hose problems so I'm leaving that all alone. Once i have pretty much all new vacuum and air hoses I will be stuck again...if it still wont start. I put in a brand new EGR valve to get rid of fault code 71. Now I think I have address the known fault codes. I want to be able to check the fuel system for pressure but I will have to look into how that is done. I don't even think I can get here to run long enough to check the timing. Any advice on testing the fuel pressure?
thank you,

 

[Bad_Vision]

a fuel pressure tester will work just fine also test the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm.

 

[bomhour]

I have done all the above mentioned test. the AFM & Ignitor were swapped out with salvaged parts and it did fix the spark issue. I tested the fuel pump and the TPS tonight. The fuel pump did turn on but the TPS failed the resistance tests from the FSM. All of the specs were ok except for IDL - E2 which came back as infinity. It was supposed to be 2.3 ohms or less. I checked it several times so I'm pretty sure that the TPS needs to be replaced to. It seems like all the electronics got fried or something. Pretty soon all the electronics up stream from the plenum are going to be new (except the distributor).

 

[bomhour]

3vze hose question - YotaTech Forums

Reporting in...I finally got to the bottom of the issues I was having. Ended up replacing or cleaning much of the electrical and air system on the engine. In the end it came down to a bad AFM that I pulled from a junk yard. It was all corroded inside so the engine was not getting any air! I took some carb cleaner to it and vuala she started right up.

thanks to everyone for your suggestions and help.

 

[clifffalling]

Anyone have any idea where I might get a set of vacuum/emission lines? Other than salvage or the dealer.
Need to replace all of them on my '94.