4.0 owners: how many added Trans cooler?

[SkylineGTRracer]

It was a must for me. next up is the engine oil cooler

 

[olsen_karl]

I have read the whole install thread and others plus had my own first-hand experience:
1) All the posts that I have read indicate there's no need to add fluid. It appears Toyota 'factory-fills' the transmissions to the very upper-end of full or slightly overfilled. That was indeed the case with mine.
2) The volume of fluid the cooler and line holds is small. The amount it lowers fluid level in the pan is virtually insignificant. One clever member, IIRC, filled his cooler to get the fluid capacity. During the install they patiently funneled in approximately that amount to the cooler & line just before completing the last connection (of course saving the highest connection for last). Clever but overkill IMHO. If you're really that worried about it it's a great idea. Don't 'over think' it though; put in just what the cooler holds, don't try to add some for the lines. Why? They hold a tiny amount, probably exactly the correct amount to compensate for warm vs. cool fluid. The level checking procedure is done with warm fluid.


I say go for it!

Thanks -- good to hear. I added a B&M cooler to a Grand Cherokee I used to have, and I think it really helped keep that transmission alive.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Bump, move, link...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/accessories/17358-transmission-cooler-install.html

 

[aeathb]

Yes, there's a light. The temp threshold is pretty high to turn the light on, 245 I think. If the light comes on it's damn hot. Stop immediately, place in N or P and DO NOT SHUT IT OFF! At idle or a slightly fast idle (1500rpm) wait until the light goes out then shut it off or continue. Don't do anymore of what you were doing to turn it on in the first place

Sorry for the slightly off topic, but why not turn it off. I'm sure there is a reason, just seems counter intuitive.

 

[SkylineGTRracer]

Sorry for the slightly off topic, but why not turn it off. I'm sure there is a reason, just seems counter intuitive.

The reason is so the coolant can do its job. you dont want to burn fluids on gears or shafts. this may be a different vehicle but it does the same purpose. my 06 f250 has a turbo diesel and normally everyday if I drive it I let it idle down so oil doesn't burn of the turbo shaft be it on the intake or exhaust side. I was thinking of getting a afteroiler or a turbo timer but me letting it idle for like 5 mins is just as good. I also do this in the 4runner but not as long as it doesn't have a turbo (yet)

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Sorry for the slightly off topic, but why not turn it off. I'm sure there is a reason, just seems counter intuitive.

I agree with Skyline 100% and add one more thing (it's not really "add" it's more of a "re-state"). In N or P the transmission is not generating any heat. In N or P it is able to take full advantage of the cooling provided by the radiator/cooler. Shutting it off stops the flow of the fluid (cooling medium) and the trans temp will actually go up more taking seals and fluid to a temp that almost guarantees breakdown/failure of the fluid and seals.

If I had an overtemp event I would get the fluid changed soon after, that just how I do it.

 

[SkylineGTRracer]

I agree with Skyline 100% and add one more thing (it's not really "add" it's more of a "re-state"). In N or P the transmission is not generating any heat. In N or P it is able to take full advantage of the cooling provided by the radiator/cooler. Shutting it off stops the flow of the fluid (cooling medium) and the trans temp will actually go up more taking seals and fluid to a temp that almost guarantees breakdown/failure of the fluid and seals.

If I had an overtemp event I would get the fluid changed soon after, that just how I do it.

I have one question about that N or P in the the trans. Will it help cool down faster when it isn't connect to the rest of the driveline? I was also thinking of getting a transmission temp gauge but I only have a EGT and boost gauge. My tuner can show more gauges but it's not helpful when driving. I wish there was a gauge pod for are toyotas so I know whats going on.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

I have one question about that N or P in the the trans. Will it help cool down faster when it isn't connect to the rest of the driveline

The flow of fluid through the cooler isn't affected (dramatically) by being in gear or in N/P. The reason it cools down faster/better in N or P is there's no heat being generated from converter slippage or gear shifting. A secondary benefit of N/P is the engine produces the least amount of heat because it's unloaded. This provides the maximum 'extra' heat sink capacity within the radiator.

 

[SkylineGTRracer]

I have such a DOH! moment right now. I forgot about the torque converter and it being locked, unlocked, etc. thanks for clearing that up.

 

[DRC]

For those who added a transmission cooler --

What did you do to top off the transmission fluid level? The cooler and lines will need to be filled -- not a lot of fluid, obviously, but there's still some that has to go in there.

The lengthy proper method for replacing transmission fluid on these is the main reason I haven't bothered with installing a cooler.

The factory method is actually very easy and I would suggest that you top it off instead of guessing. I have drained and filled my tranny on my 08 3 times now. It only takes about 15 minutes and you are done. Yeah, the first time was a mistake when I was showing my younger son how to change the engine oil. Do’h.

Just head over to your parts store or a home store and buy a pump. I use the ones they sell for pumping kerosene that you find at the home store that cost about $3.00. Get 1 quart of WS fluid, $10.00, depending on the dealer. Install your tranny cooler. Next remove the fill plug on the transmission and pump in about half of the quart. Actually this is more then you will need but it saves you from having to repeat the fill process. Install the fill plug but leave it hand tight. Get yourself 2 paperclips and 2 alligator clips, with wire. Slide one of the paperclips into the #4 post of the ODB (this is the top row, start counting from the left). Take the other paperclip and put it into plug #13 (this is the bottom row). Now connect your alligator clips so that you have two wires coming out of the ODB that you can connect while sitting in the drivers seat. Connect the other ends of the alligator clips to jump the connection and start the engine. All your dash lights will flash on and off. Put your foot on the break and cycle through the gears from P to 1 and back P two or three times then go into N and switch back and forth between N and D about 10 times quickly till the AT Oil like comes on. Put it back in park and the light should go off. Disconnect the alligator clips and wait till the AT Oil light comes back on. If the engine is cold it will take about 10 – 15 minutes of idle before it comes on. Once the AT oil light is on, leave the engine running and roll under the truck and crack open the over flow plug. You should have the extra trans fluid come out. Once it slows to a trickle put the plug back in and turn off the truck. Torque the overflow to 15lbs and the fill plug to 29lbs. You are done.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

The factory method is actually very easy and I would suggest that you top it off instead of guessing. I have drained and filled my tranny on my 08 3 times now. It only takes about 15 minutes and you are done. Yeah, the first time was a mistake when I was showing my younger son how to change the engine oil. Do’h.

Just head over to your parts store or a home store and buy a pump. I use the ones they sell for pumping kerosene that you find at the home store that cost about $3.00. Get 1 quart of WS fluid, $10.00, depending on the dealer. Install your tranny cooler. Next remove the fill plug on the transmission and pump in about half of the quart. Actually this is more then you will need but it saves you from having to repeat the fill process. Install the fill plug but leave it hand tight. Get yourself 2 paperclips and 2 alligator clips, with wire. Slide one of the paperclips into the #4 post of the ODB (this is the top row, start counting from the left). Take the other paperclip and put it into plug #13 (this is the bottom row). Now connect your alligator clips so that you have two wires coming out of the ODB that you can connect while sitting in the drivers seat. Connect the other ends of the alligator clips to jump the connection and start the engine. All your dash lights will flash on and off. Put your foot on the break and cycle through the gears from P to 1 and back P two or three times then go into N and switch back and forth between N and D about 10 times quickly till the AT Oil like comes on. Put it back in park and the light should go off. Disconnect the alligator clips and wait till the AT Oil light comes back on. If the engine is cold it will take about 10 – 15 minutes of idle before it comes on. Once the AT oil light is on, leave the engine running and roll under the truck and crack open the over flow plug. You should have the extra trans fluid come out. Once it slows to a trickle put the plug back in and turn off the truck. Torque the overflow to 15lbs and the fill plug to 29lbs. You are done.

Yes! Thank-you! It's not rocket science... The T4R and Hilux are 3rd world vehicles and need to be serviceable in the 3rd world. :iagree:, it is as easy as DRC has outlined. More details here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/maint...ission-fluid-servicing-sealed-non-sealed.html :cheers: