techno
New member
Def brace yourself.... I was quoted $4600.
4.0L V6 VVT Oil Control Valves
- Thread starter scootermcrad
- Start date
waypoint
Member
Have another kid on the way and really wanted to save some money, but I have way too much going on to do such a time consuming service.
I hear ya. It took me a net of 6 days, working during evenings with the occasional Saturday or Sunday (but not both due to 2 kids). My first DOHC engine project, but not my first time inside an engine. I could do it again in 3 full days with what I learned during the process, e.g. technique to unbolt the AC compressor...there was a lot of staring and scratching my head even with the factory shop manual.
And congrats in advance on your new family member!!
scootermcrad
Member
Thank you! I appreciate it!
Man... I don't even have a dry place to do that kind of work for that many consecutive days. Holy cow! This is not good...
scootermcrad
Member
techno
New member
Yeah, dealer. I did the diagnosis and told them what needed done.
scootermcrad
Member
Quick update for you guys...
Indeed, it needs a timing chain. 206,000 miles has been a good stretch, I guess. (no pun intended), but DAMN... It's amazing how much it costs to do it. Just on my soapbox here, but it sucks that they don't even offer a discount for something that should have lasted much longer. But... it is what it is.
I work in motorsports, and the dealer is related to one of the race teams here, so they are going to at least give me the discount for the relationship, so I guess that's worth something. Can't complain about that.
What a headache...
Thanks for everyone's input! I guess we can change the name of this thread to, "You may want it to only be Oil Control Valves, but it will turn out to be a timing chain." HAHA
uke:
Indeed, it needs a timing chain. 206,000 miles has been a good stretch, I guess. (no pun intended), but DAMN... It's amazing how much it costs to do it. Just on my soapbox here, but it sucks that they don't even offer a discount for something that should have lasted much longer. But... it is what it is.
I work in motorsports, and the dealer is related to one of the race teams here, so they are going to at least give me the discount for the relationship, so I guess that's worth something. Can't complain about that.
What a headache...
Thanks for everyone's input! I guess we can change the name of this thread to, "You may want it to only be Oil Control Valves, but it will turn out to be a timing chain." HAHA
uke:
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Ebolavirus6
New member
FWIW I replaced the timing chain/components on my 2007. It probably took me 14+ hours but only cost about $500 in parts. Apparently there was a TSB for a known leak at the timing cover on 2007 1gr-fe's but Toyota only covered it to 30,000 miles.
I purchased an 07' last Monday, fluids being changed and drive belt being changed as we speak...got a call...got this OCV code. I've done some things on a car and my 77' cb750f super sport but never with an engine. How much mechanical experience did you have when you did this? Any special tools you need and is it easy. I'm not worried about time. Thanks.
techno
New member
Don't waste your time replacing the oil control valves. If they were faulty, you would have a different code.
The first thing you need to check when you have a P0016 code is the timing chain tensioner. On the front of the timing chain cover is a rectangular plate secured with 4 bolts. This is the inspection cover, remove it and see how far the tensioner has extended. If you can see lots of shiny shaft and several 'oil bands', then your chain has stretched.
Start watching this series.
YouTube
Also, here's exactly what the tensioner looks like......
YouTube
The first thing you need to check when you have a P0016 code is the timing chain tensioner. On the front of the timing chain cover is a rectangular plate secured with 4 bolts. This is the inspection cover, remove it and see how far the tensioner has extended. If you can see lots of shiny shaft and several 'oil bands', then your chain has stretched.
Start watching this series.
YouTube
Also, here's exactly what the tensioner looks like......
YouTube
Awesome, thanks. The truck runs great, pulls great no hesitation in throttle response, idk if any of those are signs of a stretched chain. I also don't want to think this but am hoping that a dealership is trying to compile more and more things wrong with the car than actually are due to the state of the world. Also can't believe they quote you $70 to change the license plate bulbs but I got bigger problems than that.
Awesome thanks everyone. Also, the only reason this came up was because on my way to dropping the car off at Toyota last night my dash lights lit up. Engine traction vsc off and the other one. I read that it could just be the gas cap, had them scan for the check engine and they said it was the OCV. So idk if it's the gas cap, Ocv or potential timing chain. I'm not paying for any of it today so just trying to figure what everyone thinks my next step should be.
Ebolavirus6
New member
I have a bit of experience. Ive pulled engines, done headgaskets, clutches, turbos, etc. This was a ***** of a job. Sealing the timing cover was the most nerve racking part because if I didnt get it right, it was about 4+ to remove everything again, clean and reseal. There is a good video series on YT that explains everything from diagnosis to replacement.
Replacing VVT valves fixes sudden power loss under load
Just some information that might be useful to someone:
My second-hand '05 V6 4Runner (145k) recently was experiencing sudden power losses when accelerating or ascending hills, and loaded. Each time it happened was on extended wildland trips with a lot of gear.
Engine light, VSC Trac and ABS lights would come on. When I pulled over and let ii sit for a few minutes, it would run fine, but the warning lights would stay on.
Two dealerships diagnosed clogged catalytic converters. I had both replaced, with sensors. VERY expensive. (Please don't chime in with shade-tree solutions I could have chosen ...).
Neither shop asked the larger question: Why did the cats clog? As we all know, troubleshooting is the apex of the trade, and not all mechanics are up to it.
It happened again after the second cat (with sensors) was replaced, and again while loaded up and ascending minor grades.
Many hours spent watching YouTube videos addressing the very symptoms I was experiencing led to the conclusion that the problem was dirty and sticky variable valve-timing (a.k.a. oil control) selenoids/valves.
Among the cautions YouTubers noted was that the VVT valves can be VERY difficult to remove, even to the point of having to drill out the centers and using an extractor supplemented by cursing.
An independent shop known for expertise with Toyota trucks ran the usual diagnostic tests, but the warning lights had turned themselves off. They could get no trouble codes. They tested the VVT selenoids, and indications were that they were working. (Key here apparently was that testing the electronic selenoid wasn't the same as testing the mechanical sliding valve it activates.)
I didn't buy those results. So I insisted that both valves be replaced regardless of their test results. Being in the wildland-travel business, I cannot have an unreliable vehicle. (I own three 4Runners due to their usual reliability.) It had to be fixed.
Both valves were difficult to pull out. One broke. Once removed, we found that one valve was completely stuck and likely was not functioning; the other was notchy and sticky, and didn't slide smoothly at all. Both were dirty with that brownish varnish, likely because the previous owner (soccer mom) drove it for short errands and didn't attend adequately to oil changes.
YouTube was right, and we all learned something. The truck is running well now, and reliably. MPGs have gone from 16-ish to over 20 often.
I hope this is helpful.
Just some information that might be useful to someone:
My second-hand '05 V6 4Runner (145k) recently was experiencing sudden power losses when accelerating or ascending hills, and loaded. Each time it happened was on extended wildland trips with a lot of gear.
Engine light, VSC Trac and ABS lights would come on. When I pulled over and let ii sit for a few minutes, it would run fine, but the warning lights would stay on.
Two dealerships diagnosed clogged catalytic converters. I had both replaced, with sensors. VERY expensive. (Please don't chime in with shade-tree solutions I could have chosen ...).
Neither shop asked the larger question: Why did the cats clog? As we all know, troubleshooting is the apex of the trade, and not all mechanics are up to it.
It happened again after the second cat (with sensors) was replaced, and again while loaded up and ascending minor grades.
Many hours spent watching YouTube videos addressing the very symptoms I was experiencing led to the conclusion that the problem was dirty and sticky variable valve-timing (a.k.a. oil control) selenoids/valves.
Among the cautions YouTubers noted was that the VVT valves can be VERY difficult to remove, even to the point of having to drill out the centers and using an extractor supplemented by cursing.
An independent shop known for expertise with Toyota trucks ran the usual diagnostic tests, but the warning lights had turned themselves off. They could get no trouble codes. They tested the VVT selenoids, and indications were that they were working. (Key here apparently was that testing the electronic selenoid wasn't the same as testing the mechanical sliding valve it activates.)
I didn't buy those results. So I insisted that both valves be replaced regardless of their test results. Being in the wildland-travel business, I cannot have an unreliable vehicle. (I own three 4Runners due to their usual reliability.) It had to be fixed.
Both valves were difficult to pull out. One broke. Once removed, we found that one valve was completely stuck and likely was not functioning; the other was notchy and sticky, and didn't slide smoothly at all. Both were dirty with that brownish varnish, likely because the previous owner (soccer mom) drove it for short errands and didn't attend adequately to oil changes.
YouTube was right, and we all learned something. The truck is running well now, and reliably. MPGs have gone from 16-ish to over 20 often.
I hope this is helpful.
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