4.56 Diff w/ Aussie Lockers - Good price or no?

[brettniles]

I found a set of 4.56 diffs with aussie lockers locally for $500. Considering it includes the lockers, is this a good price or should I move on? Currently at the factory 4.10. Ideally, I wanted to regear to 4.88 to run 33s, though realistically I can probably stand to stay on 31s, but I DO need to pull a small travel trailer in the future. Thoughts? Snatch it up or wait to go to 4.88?

 

[KidVermicious]

Regearing your own diffs to 4.56 and adding lockers would run you near $1500, if not over. If the diffs you are looking at are in good shape, they're a good deal. How good a deal depends on how badly you want/need 4.88 gears, which mostly depends on which motor/trans combo you have and how fast you want to go up hills pulling that trailer.

 

[DangerRanger]

I would jump on it. As the previous poster mentioned, doing the gear swap and locker install along is worth way more.

Besides, 4.88 on 33s is too high IMO.. I've got 4.88s on 35s and it's just right. 456 seems like it would fit the bill just fine.

 

[fwak1234]

Ha I was looking at the same ones yesterday. I have 4.56 stock and need some other things to do on my truck first. I would try haggling though since the look like they have had some miles on the housings at least. Gears look decent in the one picture of the rear housing. I would offer 400 and try to snag them at that price.

 

[airdreams1]

wish I was there, Id buy them.... I need 4.56 as Im running 31x10.5 tires.
(4.10 just isn't cutting it for freeway driving)

 

[Dropzone]

I would jump on it. As the previous poster mentioned, doing the gear swap and locker install along is worth way more.

Besides, 4.88 on 33s is too high IMO.. I've got 4.88s on 35s and it's just right. 456 seems like it would fit the bill just fine.

Depends on what engine you have .
I have had 2 22R trucks, 4.88's and the trucks were dialed in with 33's. I went to 35's, 5.29's put the truck back where it should be. 3.0 = different story.

I ran Aussie front and rear, the front will like to pull straight when in 4x4 and turning. Not good on DD on a snowy surface.

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

I dunno, I have 4.88's and 35's on my truck, it runs fantastic and the speedo is dead-on with my gps.

Running it down the insterstate, the truck can hold 90+ if I want it to, its quite happy at 75-80mph on flats, and going through the mountains around here and the PNW, it'll keep up with regular traffic no problem.

I guess if your engine is completely stock though, including exhaust, it might be a bit pokey.

Oh yeah, forgot to add, that would be the main drawback in having a mechanical locker up front. You will never be able to use 4WD on the road without it being very dangerous! Have it lock up while making a left or right turn and you won't be able to get it to turn back to straight because of it binding up. Even worse, going up a snowy hill that has a turn at the top, and you cannot turn at all!

 

[Dropzone]

that is just my experience on my 84 & 81. Started with 33's & 4.88s on the 84, 6 months later went to 35s and 5.29's.
In my 81 Trekker went straight to 5.29's and 35's, speedo was dead on with that combo
cool if 4.88's work for you guys. for me the 5.29's on the highway and trail were the good compromise

edit:
i lost my rear driveshaft on the way to work a few years ago. Thankfully it was only 5 miles to get home.
Driving with a fully locked front axle on pavement sucked

 

[brettniles]

Depends on what engine you have .
I have had 2 22R trucks, 4.88's and the trucks were dialed in with 33's. I went to 35's, 5.29's put the truck back where it should be. 3.0 = different story.

I ran Aussie front and rear, the front will like to pull straight when in 4x4 and turning. Not good on DD on a snowy surface.

I've got a 3.0. Could the front locker be removed easily to preserve daily snow driving? This is all new to me, so bear with me here. I don't plan on doing any serious mudding or crawling, but in the future plan to do some overlanding.

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

Nope! To pull the front locker out would require the spindles, axle shafts and a whole lotta work with the third member each time you wanted the locker out!

If that's the case, get an ARB or some other SELECTABLE locking diff for the front.

I know there's guys who use front mechanical lockers on the street when its snowy/icy, and they get away with it without having any issues, but it only takes one time for the right conditions to have it lock up when you need to turn, and it could cost you your life, or worse, someone else's life.

It would be really bad if you were driving at 25-35mph and went to turn on an icy road, and you couldn't turn the wheel at all, which caused you to plow into a bunch of pedestrians or into a store front or something.

Not preaching or anything, just wanted to point out a very plausible scenario, one that I'm sure has already happened a few times.

 

[brettniles]

Nope! To pull the front locker out would require the spindles, axle shafts and a whole lotta work with the third member each time you wanted the locker out!

If that's the case, get an ARB or some other SELECTABLE locking diff for the front.

I know there's guys who use front mechanical lockers on the street when its snowy/icy, and they get away with it without having any issues, but it only takes one time for the right conditions to have it lock up when you need to turn, and it could cost you your life, or worse, someone else's life.

It would be really bad if you were driving at 25-35mph and went to turn on an icy road, and you couldn't turn the wheel at all, which caused you to plow into a bunch of pedestrians or into a store front or something.

Not preaching or anything, just wanted to point out a very plausible scenario, one that I'm sure has already happened a few times.

Yeah, I don't want that. I think I'll hold off. Snow driving is one of the main uses my 4WD will see. Thanks for the advice guys!

 

[KidVermicious]

Another option - grab the diffs you're looking at, and remove and sell the front locker. It's an Aussie, so it'll come out pretty easy. You should be able to get $100-$150 for it. Get the spider gears and thrust washers from whoever buys it to put back in your new front diff, and then you'll be set with a locked rear and open front with 4.56.

On the flip side, that doesn't make much sense if you'd really prefer 4.88. On the flip of the flip, odds of finding a matched 4.88 front and rear with a rear locker for under $1000 are pretty damned slim.