4.56 gears

[DesertCanyons]

Thanks to Jetboy and nb rob

...

Dave, you probably already know this from your searching, but if not, ECGS also has a bushing replacement for the needle bearing in the front differential that it seems most people purchase at the same time as the gear swaps. That particular bearing seems to fail more often than anything else on the driveline... I'm sure you've seen the threads. The ECGS bushing seems to be the accepted permanent replacement.
...

Yes, great explanation from Jetboy. That says a lot.

Thanks for the explanation of why it's valuable. Yes, I saw that but didn't know what it was. I thought $60 for a short section of thin wall pipe was a little steep.
op2:

As I suspected, I'll need to have a shop do this parts swap. I'm planning to get a 1000# to 1800# teardrop trailer this year so the gear swap makes sense.

One Sintered PTFE Bushing, metal backed, bronze inlaid, PTFE coated CV axle bushing for Toyota 8" front clamshell differential. Fits all 05 to current year model Tacoma, FJ Cruiser, and 03 up 4runner DOES NOT FIT AWD 4RUNNER AND FJ CRUISER. Replaces Driver side CV axle needle bearing with bushing to help control Vibration and shaft float common on these differentials. Replaces Needle Bearing Part # 90364-35010 and 90364-35008. This is for the drivers side ONLY, the passenger side uses a ball bearing. This is for the bushing ONLY, the removal tool is also an option to allow one to easily remove the stock needle Bearing.

For further information on the issue with the differential assembly please view our short tech video.
TECH VIDEO


To see how to remove the bearing and install new bushing please view our tech video of the removal and install
REMOVAL/INSTALL VIDEO

Written Instructions with photos are available at the bottom of this page in a PDF format.

PLEASE READ OUR BUSHING FAQ PAGE FOR ANY OTHER QUESTIONS!!

 

[Jetboy]

Just so I am clear - do you still recommend using a shop to remove the old 3rd member and then install the modified 3rd that ECGS sends you, or is the pre-assembled 3rd easy enough to do w/o specialized tools and average mechanical knowledge?

This depends on your level of skill, but it should be do-able by most folks as long as you're comfortable with draining gear oil and such. It's about the same difficulty level as swapping front coilovers. If you can do that, you can swap third members. As someone who'd done it lots of times, I could probably swap both in my garage in a short day. Maybe 6 hours of work. On a lift - more like 4 hours to swap both. For a first time - I'd plan on double that. Have a saturday and sunday clear if you need a carryover day.

Probably the hardest part for your first time is removing the front inner axle shafts from the front diff. The snap rings take a lot more force to pull out than you think. You'll think you're going to break it.

 

[83Mule]

There isn't anything ''hard'' about doing the swap but it is time consuming and tedious......be honest with yourself and admit You would be better off having it done by guys that do them all the time! I did the 8'' axles in my Mule and the drum brakes make it even more of a pain as well as setting up the locker and R&P clearances. On a 5th gen I would probably just pay to have it done. I would prefer a 4.10 option for 265 and 275 tires.

 

[dot_tom]

Bought my 4.56's from ECGS and swapped the rear on a friday night and the front clamshell the next day. Isn't hard to do. I followed an FJ write up and had no issues.

I'm running 295/70 with my 4.56's and do 14 mpg hwy and 12.5-13ish city. Power is great. Offroad gearing is even better! Well worth it and ECGS are great people.

That being said, I'll be moving up to 305's or 315's this fall.

 

[Jeremy556]

Here is what ECGS sends you.

You have to remove the axle shafts, drive shafts, and the diffs. The front diff is a heavy awkward PITA to reinstall on a creeper on your back. The parking brakes were a huge PITA for me as well, but now after recently pulling them apart and back together to replace a parking brake cable, they aren't bad. Trick is to use safety wire to keep the hold down springs and hardware together and compressed through the hole in the hub while reinstalling the shoes.

 

[atchcraft]

I'm going to ask nearly the same question here that I did in the linked thread above by comtn4x4 reviewing his 4.56 gear install.

I looked through the East Coast Gear Supply website yesterday and I could not tell what any of the part names meant. Can someone please explain some of the parts ECGS lists?

What does the 3rd Member Housing mean?
What does the 8.2 designation refer to?
Can you reuse the OEM E-locker so you don't need to buy the ECGS locker? I use the locking differential and when I'm done I want to still have one.
Any explanation of the parts would be very helpful. TIA

Does anyone know of a good west coast shop that can install these parts? Could a transmission shop do this gear install? I'm in the Los Angeles area. I did my lift install but taking a differential apart and replacing gears may be beyond my skill set. And I don't have some of the tools required or a good shop bench I can get oil all over. Plus I am working a lot and have a house restoration project I work on during the weekends. This Old House requires a lot of work.

I went through ECGS as well. 4.56 and ARB’s. They were very easy to deal with and, in the end, ended up rushing them to me. if I had to do it again, I’d have called to place the order. Another option you have is to send in your 3rd members first, then they guarantee a 72 turn around. Otherwise, expect about 4 weeks. If your having them installed elsewhere, that’s probably not a great option.

If you are at all mechanically inclined, it’s not a difficult job. The rear is very straight forward. As mentioned, the front is a bit more involved and the front axle is a heavy, awkward mofo. I did mine on a lift and I actually think the ground would be easier. Also, disconnecting the wiring and breather hoses are a pain. Next time I have to drop that, I’ll look at disconnecting them in the engine compartment.

IMO, if you use your truck off road, then the more DIY you do, the more familiar you are with things when you break them. You’re going to love the regear.

 

[wfo9]

The 3rd member housing is the cast housing that drops out that normally has the differential parts in it- but without any of the stuff installed in it.

The 8.2 is the designation given to the rear axle size in our 4runners. Specifically 8.2 inches is the diameter of the ring gear. They are size specific, so an 8 inch or 8.4 will not work. Only an 8.2 ring and pinion set will fit an 8.2 differential.

Yes you can reuse the OEM locker. The ring and pinion change will normally reuse the locker part of the differential assembly and everything should work as normal when you're done.

Changing gears is not something most shade tree mechanics can or should do at home. It's not technically hard, but it does require a fair amount of specialty high precision tools and a understanding of mesh patterns, what they mean, and how to correct them. Basically, if you have to ask - you should probably find a shop to do the gears. Typically $150-250 is the going rate for a differential pro to do the gear swap, not including any parts of removal or assembly of the differentials.

The main reason to use ECGS is that they will mail you a pair of complete differential that you just swap into your vehicle, then you send your take out set back as a core for them to build for the next guy. It makes for a shorter down time and saves money in a lot of cases.

Just a technical detail, but they are all actually 8" ring gears. The 8.2/8.4 was just used to differentiate design changes. Different bearing caps, carrier... the ring gears are all different to accommodate, but funny enough the exact same diameter. There are also carrier breaks for the front clam-shell (not the rear 8.2). Some Toyota's with that clamshell (not 5th gen) came with a higher ratio and a different carrier, so the thickness of the gears ordered has to be different. It does get confusing... so always call and talk to someone and verify for a 5th gen 4runner. The rear is unique to 2010+....


As far as the third member swap goes.. It is not hard, but very time consuming for a first timer. I've done a few and even remembering the tricks is difficult. The front is the main issue with lots of difficult reaches and awkward lifting. I did my first one solo in my garage on jack stands so it is totally doable. A trans jack really helps.

 

[cutty01]

Just a technical detail, but they are all actually 8" ring gears. The 8.2/8.4 was just used to differentiate design changes. Different bearing caps, carrier... the ring gears are all different to accommodate, but funny enough the exact same diameter. There are also carrier breaks for the front clam-shell (not the rear 8.2). Some Toyota's with that clamshell (not 5th gen) came with a higher ratio and a different carrier, so the thickness of the gears ordered has to be different. It does get confusing... so always call and talk to someone and verify for a 5th gen 4runner. The rear is unique to 2010+....


As far as the third member swap goes.. It is not hard, but very time consuming for a first timer. I've done a few and even remembering the tricks is difficult. The front is the main issue with lots of difficult reaches and awkward lifting. I did my first one solo in my garage on jack stands so it is totally doable. A trans jack really helps.

Scary about the in-depth knowledge some of you have. I still have a lot to learn.

Excuse my ignorance - why do you both talk about the front diff? I thought it was only the rear that gets regeared and that is all I need to swap out.

 

[atchcraft]

Scary about the in-depth knowledge some of you have. I still have a lot to learn.

Excuse my ignorance - why do you both talk about the front diff? I thought it was only the rear that gets regeared and that is all I need to swap out.

Your front and rear diff gear ratios need to match. otherwise, the front and rear wheels will not be spinning at the same speed and hilarity will ensue!

 

[Jetboy]

Just a technical detail, but they are all actually 8" ring gears. The 8.2/8.4 was just used to differentiate design changes. Different bearing caps, carrier... the ring gears are all different to accommodate, but funny enough the exact same diameter. There are also carrier breaks for the front clam-shell (not the rear 8.2). Some Toyota's with that clamshell (not 5th gen) came with a higher ratio and a different carrier, so the thickness of the gears ordered has to be different. It does get confusing... so always call and talk to someone and verify for a 5th gen 4runner. The rear is unique to 2010+....


As far as the third member swap goes.. It is not hard, but very time consuming for a first timer. I've done a few and even remembering the tricks is difficult. The front is the main issue with lots of difficult reaches and awkward lifting. I did my first one solo in my garage on jack stands so it is totally doable. A trans jack really helps.

I've read a few places that the 8.2 is in fact a different ring gear size. But I haven't had them side by side on a bench to compare. If there's anywhere that you know of with reliable info I'd love to see it. Just out of curiosity mostly.

According to justdifferentials, "It may seem like a small upgrade but there are significant improvements such as beefier casting, larger bearings, larger pinion diameter, larger ring gear diameter, more tooth contact, and a beefier 12 bolt diff case." I wish I could just put a few side by side and take some measurements.

 

[DesertCanyons]

Replacing diff' gearing ratio

Even though I'll probably have this done by a shop, I think it's very useful to know how it's done. I want to be able to talk to the shop about the process and best end results - what factors matter most in the work. It also helps to gauge whether the shop is good at the work or just offering to learn at your expense.

My first source for a shop would probably be a transmission shop, unless someone has a better idea. The closest off-road shop to me is in Burbank (20 miles) and they work mostly on Jeeps. Any thoughts?

 

[wfo9]

I've read a few places that the 8.2 is in fact a different ring gear size. But I haven't had them side by side on a bench to compare. If there's anywhere that you know of with reliable info I'd love to see it. Just out of curiosity mostly.

According to justdifferentials, "It may seem like a small upgrade but there are significant improvements such as beefier casting, larger bearings, larger pinion diameter, larger ring gear diameter, more tooth contact, and a beefier 12 bolt diff case." I wish I could just put a few side by side and take some measurements.

Yea, the 8.2 is a significant improvement for sure. But it is still nothing like a 9.5..... Visually, they look like the same diameter (8 vs 8.2), but there could be a very slight difference. I'm almost positive they just came up with the numbers because the 8.4 is clearly an 8" diameter and not close to 8.5 (the caps are totally different though). The idea was to note that it was stronger.

The GXs 470s have become a very popular rig as they are cheap used and decent out of the box and made with good bones...But those 8" diffs pop like popcorn.... The 5th gen 8.2 can take much more abuse. I have witnessed one rip a few teeth off, but he broke his wheel in the process.... so was simply going way too hard.. In the end.. it is almost always gear deflection and there is no way to do a load bolt in the 8 or 8.2. If you drive it without harsh shock loads.. they will all last. No lockers + lots of wheel spin in rocks means pop eventually. I don't know why people cant' grasp the force of shock loads as they seem to think it is no big deal.. Makes me cringe on a big heavy truck.

People who want to go nuts are dropping in a custom axle housing with a Toyota full float 9.5, but even those have limits in the hard core high shock load world. Just the only way to go if you want to stay with Toyota parts vs a Ford 9" or something. I did see one guy use a Tundra diff in a custom housing, so I guess that could be done. Not sure how much clearance it provides though.

 

[Jetboy]

When I first bought the 4runner I never would have believed that the 8.2 was as strong as it is. Toyota really outdid themselves with it for the strength and compactness of it. It's probably stronger than the early 9.5's due to the 27 spline pinion size being a major weak link. But the 9.5 has been upgraded a lot too over the years. The new version in the small v8 Tundra and LC100/200 have a much stronger 9.5" comparable to how the 8.2 was upgraded. The new 9.5 has a 32 spline pinion in larger diameter and 32 spline axle shafts to match. It's something like twice as strong as the old 27 spline pinions used on the older ones. Supposedly the new 9.5 version is good for 1000hp in Australian tractor pull trucks.

 

[wfo9]

Even though I'll probably have this done by a shop, I think it's very useful to know how it's done. I want to be able to talk to the shop about the process and best end results - what factors matter most in the work. It also helps to gauge whether the shop is good at the work or just offering to learn at your expense.

My first source for a shop would probably be a transmission shop, unless someone has a better idea. The closest off-road shop to me is in Burbank (20 miles) and they work mostly on Jeeps. Any thoughts?

Setting up gears on a Toyota 3rd member is not all that difficult but different than most and more time consuming.

If you are just buying complete thirds from east coast gear supply with an exchange... no worries about the install shop at all really as anyone could do it. ECGS will warranty it for 5 years.... If you are having a shop do the actual gear install into your 3rds... (backlash and all that...) make sure they have done Toyota diffs before and are somewhat specialized. Ask if they warranty the parts and work (most don't). Lots of bad stories out there, but it is cheaper that way.

 

[83Mule]

4WParts can handle this swap and warranty it.........

 

[atchcraft]

Even though I'll probably have this done by a shop, I think it's very useful to know how it's done. I want to be able to talk to the shop about the process and best end results - what factors matter most in the work. It also helps to gauge whether the shop is good at the work or just offering to learn at your expense.

My first source for a shop would probably be a transmission shop, unless someone has a better idea. The closest off-road shop to me is in Burbank (20 miles) and they work mostly on Jeeps. Any thoughts?

I've dealt with Truck Accessories, Performance Parts, Truck Wheels, who came recommended by friends as well. They aren't anything like 4WParts, at least as far as I'm concerned. they're out of San Bernardino.

 

[DesertCanyons]

4 Wheel Parts

4WParts can handle this swap and warranty it.........

Thanks,
Yes, they've done a lot of work for a friend of mine on his Jeep Wrangler. The closest shop is in Van Nuys, where my friend goes for off-road upgrades. It's about 30 miles and an hour away with traffic, 40 minutes without.

 

[DesertCanyons]

So Cal Super Trucks

I've dealt with Truck Accessories, Performance Parts, Truck Wheels, who came recommended by friends as well. They aren't anything like 4WParts, at least as far as I'm concerned. they're out of San Bernardino.

Thanks for the tip. I've looked at their website before. San Bernardino is an hour away without traffic. Nearly half way to Big Bear. To take my truck there for this work I'd have to drive it twice (4 hours driving time). It's just too far if I can get a local transmission shop to do it here in Pasadena. Thanks again.

 

[canadian bum]

For those wondering about what it's like to regear these diffs I'll be doing mine later this year. I have a spare clamshell third that I removed from my SAC Tacoma. I'll do a complete rebuild of the third with the bushing upgrade. I won't be doing a front locker as I don't think it's necessary for what I'm doing with my 4Runner. Will also show anything different about the for the most part fairly new 8.2 rear end. I'll make a thread with pics and details in regards to regearing.

Lots of people are just doing the 3rd swaps which is good for fast turn around. But doesn't give much technical insight to what's going on. I got lots of experience with the rest of Toyota's diffs and lockers so should be able to provide a good write up and answer questions when the time comes. I'll be tackling this after I finish the Tacoma.