4:88s or 5:29s

MarkamisPrime

New member
Just like the title says
Just looking for personal opinions here
Didn’t feel like searching anything.
Blew my rear diff I want to go 4:88s but 5:29s are inviting.
I just don’t know if I’d like it with 5:29s as a dd.
 
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If it's a DD I would go with 4.88, and if you still want further reduction after that maybe think about a different t-case
 
I'd say it all depends on how big of tires you have, how much time you spend on the freeway, if you care about your mileage, etc...

4.88 seems like the best compromise for my truck, since the 4.30 just isn't great with 33s and all the weight I added. I'd only consider 5.29s if I was running 35s, because if I did it with 33s I'd be cruising at nearly 3k rpm on my commute.
 
Tire size is an important factor here.
I am leaning heavily towards 5.29. 4.88 is such a small difference over 4.30. Remember your new tire/wheel package also weighs more, so a ratio calculator is not the whole story
 
Tire size and transmission?

I dd mine on 35's with 5.29 and it's perfect. Can still do highway speeds, yet I can just roll on the throttle to get up less steep hills. It's nice to not have the trans shifting all the time.
 
Running 35's, I am very glad I went 5.29. At 80mph I'm around 3,000rpm and it's still plenty happy. I don't do 80 often so I usually cruise around 70 and the RPMs are mid 2,000's. Great for city driving and very helpful in the hills.

Wheels soooooo much better with the 5.29's, way more control.
 
Info on the size of tires your running and /or 5spd/automatic transmission to determine what gear ratio you want to run. I ran 33’s with the stock 4.30 gears in my 98 limited automatic trans with the 3.4. If I stayed with those size tires I would of regeared to the 4.88s. I now have a straight axle in the front and running 5.29s on 37s.


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Tire size AND transmission type (manual vs auto) are the 2 important factors.
With an auto trans you need to go one step lower (numerically higher).

For example, a 4 cylinder 22R with a 5 spd comes with 4.10 ratio.
Same engine with an auto comes with 4.30 ratio.
 
I'd say it all depends on how big of tires you have, how much time you spend on the freeway, if you care about your mileage, etc...



4.88 seems like the best compromise for my truck, since the 4.30 just isn't great with 33s and all the weight I added. I'd only consider 5.29s if I was running 35s, because if I did it with 33s I'd be cruising at nearly 3k rpm on my commute.



Tire size and transmission?

I dd mine on 35's with 5.29 and it's perfect. Can still do highway speeds, yet I can just roll on the throttle to get up less steep hills. It's nice to not have the trans shifting all the time.



Tire size AND transmission type (manual vs auto) are the 2 important factors.

With an auto trans you need to go one step lower (numerically higher).



For example, a 4 cylinder 22R with a 5 spd comes with 4.10 ratio.

Same engine with an auto comes with 4.30 ratio.



Running 35's, I am very glad I went 5.29. At 80mph I'm around 3,000rpm and it's still plenty happy. I don't do 80 often so I usually cruise around 70 and the RPMs are mid 2,000's. Great for city driving and very helpful in the hills.



Wheels soooooo much better with the 5.29's, way more control.



Tire size is an important factor here.

I am leaning heavily towards 5.29. 4.88 is such a small difference over 4.30. Remember your new tire/wheel package also weighs more, so a ratio calculator is not the whole story



I’m an auto on 33s and want to go 35s but won’t happen anytime soon.
I feel like I have 4:10s not 4:30s for some reason
00 limited factory e-locker
I do all my driving on the hwy
My work commute is only 15min not a big deal
I have driven a truck on 4:88s and 35s and drivability was great even for a 3.0 felt like it had plenty of power until the steep grades.
I want to go 5:29 because I know the trail benefits but I don’t want to hate my truck until I get the 35s
I have a heavy foot and cruise at 80mph on the way to the trails[emoji28][emoji23]
 
If you have a factory e-locker then you have 4.30 gears.

All of my calculations and plans are based on tire size, first gear trans ratio, and rear gear ratio.

The 4ECT automatic transmission has a 2.804 first gear. The 5-speed manual transmission has a 3.830 first gear.

Here are my opinions and some basic math,:

4.10 or 4.30 and 31.5 in tires are optimal with either transmission, the bigger tire you go, the more the lower first gear ratio on the 5-speed becomes attractive, IMO.

4.88 and 33-inch tires (this is my next step)

5.29 and 35 inch tires

The other factor you need to take into consideration is the rim diameter v overall tire height, meaning sidewall profile/ratio.

The smallest rim with the tallest tire will give you the most advantage off-road allowing you to air down and get the most sidewall flex. If you do a majority of highway driving however, a larger rim minimizes the sidewall flex and creates a more stable ride with less unsprung weight.

Make your choices based on your purpose, and math.

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Aight ima thread jack this real quick.. I’m ready to go 5.29 but what’s the consensus on gear installation? Just buy the ring and pinion by itself, 3rd members ready for drop in? What’s the best route? And where are y’all getting them?
 
Aight ima thread jack this real quick.. I’m ready to go 5.29 but what’s the consensus on gear installation? Just buy the ring and pinion by itself, 3rd members ready for drop in? What’s the best route? And where are y’all getting them?


Ima go through East coast gear supply.
Everyone local wants an arm and a leg
 
If you have a factory e-locker then you have 4.30 gears.

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This really got me thinking because my brother in law bought a factory elocker runner for his son and when he was getting ready to sell it
He swapped the rear end into his sr5 base model
He’s been running it like that for about 4 years now with no issues.
Either the small difference from 4.10 front to his now 4.30 rear is ok
Or it’s just a ticking time bomb [emoji2375]
 
This really got me thinking because my brother in law bought a factory elocker runner for his son and when he was getting ready to sell it
He swapped the rear end into his sr5 base model
He’s been running it like that for about 4 years now with no issues.
Either the small difference from 4.10 front to his now 4.30 rear is ok
Or it’s just a ticking time bomb [emoji2375]
Small difference, and people don't drive in 4WD often, nor on pavement, so it's unlikely he'd notice on loose ground.

Also, I've seen e-lockers with 4.10 gears on the used market. Easiest thing to do is time the wheel to drive shaft rotations, or count the ring and pinion teeth (requires disassembly)

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Apparently 4.88s are on BO
So I went with 5.29s
I guess I’ll just have more of an excuse to get the 35s on sooner rather than later.
 
a85226702f9935311c6b5b7fffcd7a92.jpg

So happy with the 5.29s
I seriously thought that it was going to bug me until I got the 35s but it feels amazing.
Did the initial break in and drove 60 miles with 2 pit stops in between to let things cool down.
I honestly couldn’t be happier.
Now to see how they feel on the trail.
 
a85226702f9935311c6b5b7fffcd7a92.jpg

So happy with the 5.29s
I seriously thought that it was going to bug me until I got the 35s but it feels amazing.
Did the initial break in and drove 60 miles with 2 pit stops in between to let things cool down.
I honestly couldn’t be happier.
Now to see how they feel on the trail.
I'm super stoked for you, and from past experience I know that going too conservative on gears is usually a mistake. I'm contemplating regearing and having the same internal debate with the 5-speed manual caveat of lower trans gears...

Looking forward to your trail report

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 
Aight ima thread jack this real quick.. I’m ready to go 5.29 but what’s the consensus on gear installation? Just buy the ring and pinion by itself, 3rd members ready for drop in? What’s the best route? And where are y’all getting them?

Personally, either you have the knowledge to build it yourself (so you're saving on labor costs) or you have one built complete for you, especially the front (it's a total PITA).

East Coast Gear Supply is the best in the biz when it comes to ordering built diffs. You also get a warranty on the entire diff, whereas having a random shop do it, you wont. Just on the parts. If it blows, you're gonna be out on labor again.

In all reality you're not really paying much more, if at all, for the convenience. Between the gears, master kit, and shop labor you're potentially there.

The biggest factor to consider is you have to pay a core deposit. Sure, you'll get it back once you send in your old diff, but it's up front money out of your pocket for the time being. There are some limitations for the core, just to be aware of.

Lead time could be a factor if you're in an emergency type situation, which doesn't sound like you are.

My front diff is built by ECGS w/ 4.88s and ARB locker. My rear elocker diff, that just recently blew, is now being replaced by an ECGS diff with 4.88s. Currently waiting. I highly recommend them, as do many others.
 
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Sage advice there [MENTION=58830]JWaldz[/MENTION] plus, setting pinion depth using a crush sleeve requires a bit of experience and tooling to do right.

My front diff is built by ECGS w/ 4.88s and ARB locker.

Did you have them install their sleeve to replace the needle bearing on the front diff?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 
I'm super stoked for you, and from past experience I know that going too conservative on gears is usually a mistake. I'm contemplating regearing and having the same internal debate with the 5-speed manual caveat of lower trans gears...

Looking forward to your trail report

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

I ran 34's for a while on 5.29's before I went full retard with the Pitbull Rockers in 35". They are a true 35 and measured 35.25" aired up with the weight of the truck on them. Once I drove the rig with those under it I really wished they made deeper gears for our rigs. lol
 

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