4R 1988 reverse light doesn't work

[SomeDay]

It looks like I'm having several electric problems

Thist's the thing, when I drive backwards reverse light doesn't turn on . I wanted to install a better light and turn them on manually with a switch in the dashboard, but I can't pass the technical inspection this way, the light has to turn on automatically when the gearshift is in reverse.

This maybe helps with your diagnose: the number plate lights don't work either.

Please, point me in the right direction to solve this.

Thanks!

 

[RAD4Runner]

It looks like I'm having several electric problems

Blinker and reverse light symptoms point to the Engine Fuse.

Here you will see all the systems/circuit that take power from the Engine Fuse.

Hurry and get a multi-meter.

 

[fourwd1]

Blinkers and Hazards are on the HAZ-HORN fuse, tag lights are on the TAIL fuse, B/U lights are on the ENGINE fuse.
The commonality between B/U and tag lights out could be a bad ground.

 

[RAD4Runner]

Blinkers and Hazards are on the HAZ-HORN fuse,

Correction... Hazards are on Haz-Horn fuse . Always on even if Ignition is off.

Turn signals are on Engine Fuse. Ground is common to many

Pls see schematic.

 

[fourwd1]

Correction... Hazards are on Haz-Horn fuse . Always on even if Ignition is off.

Turn signals are on Engine Fuse. Ground is common to many

Pls see schematic.

UR right, in my FSM that part is in fine print, pointing to another page. :thumb:

 

[RAD4Runner]

UR right, in my FSM that part is in fine print, pointing to another page. :thumb:

Yeah, FSM gets confusing at times. And Toyota calling parts names that do not makes sense does not help. i.e., Why "engine" fuse when it supplies turns signals, alternator excitation, reverse light, etc?
Maybe a tactic so we'll give up and take our trucks to the dealership instead.
LOL!

 

[SomeDay]

Hi guys,
I've checked the engine fuse box, everything looks good, but the ones in the yellow box don't fit perfectly, they're not fixed, they're lose.
The second photo show it better, they're in higher position than the 80 one (black), could be a problem?:

 

[SomeDay]

But I think this's the problem, the light bulbs're good, but their 'ass' and their holder have seen better days, what do you think?

 

[SomeDay]

First I'd change the back up lights holders and light bulbs. I have to go for the replacements. Do you think could be the same thing which affects the turning lights? The 15A fuse's good, that goes to the back up lights and the comb light (combination switch?). I think this's the problem.

What about the 'loose' fuses? Should I push until they're completly fixed? I don't want to break anything...

 

[fourwd1]

They are fusible links and don't pull out like a normal fuse.
IIRC they're screwed in from underneath.

 

[fourwd1]

They're the main 'fuse's for the entire vehicle, so if they were loose you wouldn't run.
It can't hurt to check them out, but make sure to disconnect the battery cable first.

 

[SomeDay]

They're the main 'fuse's for the entire vehicle, so if they were loose you wouldn't run.
It can't hurt to check them out, but make sure to disconnect the battery cable first.

It makes sense. I didn't know these kind of fuses, I pushed them but they didn't fit :redface:

My ToDo list of electric problem's gettng smaller.

The front, back, stop, interior, hazzard lights work.
The clock, radio, antena, front washer and wiper work.
But back washer and wiper aren't working. That's what I'm going to check tomorrow. I'll post what I found.
Thaks a lot!

 

[airdreams1]

I'd recommend cleaning up the light housing as best as you can if you're capable of doing it solder a wire directly to it then run that to a good ground.
Also check to see that your reverse lights are plugged in at the transmission. There is a sensor right up by the stick shift. so there will be a spot that has wires coming out of it obviously if everything's plugged in and you have power you may have a problem with that switch.

 

[RAD4Runner]

Please keep this schematic handy:

...
My ToDo list of electric problem's gettng smaller.
The front, back, stop, interior, hazzard lights work.
The clock, radio, antena, front washer and wiper work.
But back washer and wiper aren't working.

Good job describing the problem. A problem well-stated is a problem almost solved.


The front (marker lights), back (tail lights), stop, interior (dome) and hazard lights work. Meaning your main fusible link WIRE, your fusible link module (80amps), and your 40-amp fuse are good.
The clock, radio, antena work meaning you have power to and after the ACC contact of your ignition switch.
Front washer and wiper work, meaning IG1 contact of your ignition switch is also good and has power. I bet your clutch safety cancel switch also works.
Are you able to crank the starter?
IF engine runs, Does the the charge fault light come on?


Those rusted light sockets are for your license plate lights. Those are on same circuit as tail lights, not affected by ENGINE fuse that supplies turn signals, back-up lights and rear washer/wiper.
If they do not work, do as airdreams suggests above^^^
If they work, don't worry about them. Focus on the more important issues first.

The 30-amp and 40-amp are fuses. They plugged in an look mechanically OK.
The 80-amp is the fusible link. It is screwed into the fuse block from below. IF your headlights, tail lights, gage cluster lights, and hazards and horn work, you now that the 80-amp fusible link is good.

Look at all the schematics I posted earlier on your posts and trace wires back to ENGINE FUSE, and back to your ignition switch until you see where you lost it.

 

[RAD4Runner]

Here's the back-up switch on transmission... When you're ready to use your multi-meter let us know, so we can walk you though... You may need an assistant to do the test here.

Here's the schematic of back-up switch:

 

[SomeDay]

I'd recommend cleaning up the light housing as best as you can if you're capable of doing it solder a wire directly to it then run that to a good ground.

I'm doing as you say, thanks for your advice.

 

[SomeDay]

The 30-amp and 40-amp are fuses. They plugged in an look mechanically OK.
The 80-amp is the fusible link. It is screwed into the fuse block from below. IF your headlights, tail lights, gage cluster lights, and hazards and horn work, you now that the 80-amp fusible link is good.

Look at all the schematics I posted earlier on your posts and trace wires back to ENGINE FUSE, and back to your ignition switch until you see where you lost it.

I'll follow your advice, but I'd like to show you what I found:

In the photo. Those plugs were disconnected, wet, dirty and rusty. If I'm reading the FSM correctly, those connectors are from the windows regulator motor, but the rear window works perfectly (By the way, I have to work in the interior of the tail gate, it's rusty, it looks like water finds its way, corroding mechanism, connectors. etc)

I've noticed other thing , the 4R has the cover top installed, but the "B" bolt, (the one which makes contact with the cover top switch, wasn't in position. It was in the gloves compartment inside a bag.

 

[Bad_Vision]

I'll follow your advice, but I'd like to show you what I found:



In the photo. Those plugs were disconnected, wet, dirty and rusty. If I'm reading the FSM correctly, those connectors are from the windows regulator motor, but the rear window works perfectly (By the way, I have to work in the interior of the tail gate, it's rusty, it looks like water finds its way, corroding mechanism, connectors. etc)



I've noticed other thing , the 4R has the cover top installed, but the "B" bolt, (the one which makes contact with the cover top switch, wasn't in position. It was in the gloves compartment inside a bag.

It's common for the top window seals to go bad and let water in. Most of us older guys drill holes in the bottom to let it escape. It was a poor design from the factory and even brand new they leaked into the tailgate.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RAD4Runner]

RE: COVER TOP BOLT... Maybe previous owner bypassed the cover top switch.

But let's work on your more critical issues, the ones that point to the engine fuse. Procedure for checking engine fuse is here.

Cheers!

 

[SomeDay]

RE: COVER TOP BOLT... Maybe previous owner bypassed the cover top switch.

You're right, the rear wiper and washer're working again, but the cover top bolt's not in position.

Procedure for checking engine fuse is here[/URL].

Cheers!

It's alive, IT'S ALIVE!!!

Thank you very much RAD4Runner!

For other people with electrical problems: Procedure for checking engine fuse is here.