4Runner died

N

nail bender

New member
Driving home from work this afternoon and my 2001 4Ronner just died. it would not restart. turns over just fine but will not start. it had been running fine up to this point no cel or anything. It has around 248 thousand miles. air filter fuel filter plugs and wires have all been replaced about 10,000 miles ago. cleaned the maf as well. where do I start to look for the cause of this? thanks for any help.
 
Register to hide this ad
nail bender said:
timing belt was replaced at 208 thousand miles
Click to expand...

Did they do the water pump? A leaky WP will kill a new TB in no time. Like he said, check that first. Although you should hear a difference in the crank.

The other thing is the crank pulley bolt. I always suspect this on a halfway recent TB job that I didn't do myself. If the bolt gets loose because dipwad did not take it to spec torque, the key on the sprocket shears and bang, you're out of timing on both ignition and valves. After that, fuel pump. Spray starter fluid in the intake--if it catches, FP is a good bet at those miles if original. Sometime you can get it going by banging on the side of the tank by left rear wheel.
 
Last edited:
Also check the crank sensor. If that fails you're engine won't start. You can crank all day but if it doesn't register to the ECM that the engine is turning over it's not going to start/run.
 
TheDurk said:
Did they do the water pomp? A leaky WP will kill a TB in no time. Like he said, check that first. Although you should hear a difference in the crank.
Click to expand...

yes water pump was done also. sound when cranking is normal although I never cranked it more than a few seconds in the past. it always started right up.
 
Does it start if you spray some starting fluid into the intake? When my fuel pump died it would do the same thing, crank just fine but not start, though it didn’t happen when driving, but I’ve had a couple chevys die while doing 70 due to fuel pumps

There’s an access hatch under the back seat that you can get to the top of the fuel pump connector and put 12v to the pump and see if you can hear it run, and you can also test the resistance with a multimeter, someone around here has a service manual screen shot that describes it better than I do
 
Has the fuel pump ever been replaced? I experienced stalling/dying and limped along to a gas station filled up everything went away. Went to work the next morning and could not accelerate past 2500rpms before it fell flat on its face, replaced fuel filter and it temporarily fixed it, hooked a fuel pressure gauge up to it had 44psi at idle and the second I.got on it the pressure would drop to 18psi. Ended up dropping the tank and could not believe how much crud was built up on the pickup screen. Replaced fuel filter, fuel pump and screen and its back to normal. Also I never had any check engine light or warning signs it just happened.
 
Last edited:
Any timing belt is NOT as good as an OEM or Mitsuboshi belt.
The gates belt I had in my car started cracking at 50K miles and the GMB bearing was shot at this mileage.
On the other hand, an OEM or MITSUBOSHI belt with NSK / KOYO bearing would have easily lasted 120K miles.

If you install neither of above belts, please check every 40K miles
 
alumarine said:
I'd check for spark and fuel first.
Click to expand...
^^^What this guy said.
Check easy stuff 1st. A blown EFI fuse will do that, actually happened to me. Also with timing belt, you can just pull off a few bolts and tweak back the cover to take a peek without taking it all off.
 
Thanks tor all the info, swaped out the EFI fuze no difference. sprayed a shot of starting fluid in the intake and it will start and run a few seconds. so I will be testing the fuel pump but I think that is the problem. i did not buy this new so I don't know if it has been replaced, i doubt it has. just want to be sure before I rip in to it and replace stuff that is not bad.
 
nail bender said:
Thanks tor all the info, swaped out the EFI fuze no difference. sprayed a shot of starting fluid in the intake and it will start and run a few seconds. so I will be testing the fuel pump but I think that is the problem. i did not buy this new so I don't know if it has been replaced, i doubt it has. just want to be sure before I rip in to it and replace stuff that is not bad.
Click to expand...

Don't jump straight to a fuel pump even though that could be the issue. Fuel pump failure is very rare and the pump is in the tank and difficult to access.

Most likely you have a sensor that's sending a faulty signal and the ECU cutting out the fuel. MAF's are known culprits for doing this. Have you checked the ECU for codes already?
 
Anytime dude! I did everything exactly as you did. Replaced fuel filter, Cleaned all the way up to the throttle body including the throttle body, MAF sensor, disconnected battery for 3 hrs. and cleared codes (which their weren't any) replaced EFI relays And It didn't change a damn thing. Here is the link of what I was experiencing and what the culprit was. Dropping the tank is not that difficult. The hardest part is dealing with rusted fasteners long as you hit em a couple times with some penetrating oil a few days before, and getting the fuel out which the way I accomplished that was to take my air compressor and set it to 20lbs of psi, shove a hose down the filler neck put the compressor nozzle in it and push the fuel out through the fuel filter/fuel line and drain it into a gas can. Also have another thread on how to check fuel pressure easier. Here they are. Good luck!


Fixed thread:
Trying to figure this out *Solved*
Fuel pressure test thread:
Easier way to check fuel pressure
 
RandyBobandy said:
http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archiv...02rmsour/2002/024runne/sf5vzfe/fuepum/ovi.pdf

That link might help with testing the pump, at the very end it shows how to check resistance, you can eliminate a spark issue if you can get it started with starting fluid
Click to expand...

Update I checked the pump per these instructions. it ohm reading is .15 so it is below the .2-.3 where this info says it should be. I also could not get the pump to run by powering it from the battery like this info shows to do. I have determined that power is getting to the pump when it is called for. any thoughts on quality of aftermarket pumps or OEM? I am leaning towards OEM I know it is more money but you often get what you pay for. is there anything else needed when replacing the pump? thanks for the help
 
I bought a denso pump from rock auto, which I believe is the same as oem, it wasn’t very expensive and works well. Dropping the tank wasn’t hard, I did it out in the driveway with about 6” of snow on the ground because the 4Runner wouldn’t start up to go into the garage
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 446 (members: 4, guests: 442)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,304
Messages
3,554,041
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top