4Runner died....

zstampe

zstampe

New member
So I was driving home tonight and as I rolled up to a stop sign in D4 and stopped; the truck died. I turned the key off then back on and it started right up.....weird huh? The truck has 3/4 of a tank of gas, it was approx 65 degrees and I have NO dash lights on. Any ideas? The only idea I can come up with is this.....

Yesterday I was at a buddies house helping him do some stuff to his 4runner and I decided to do the independent fog light mod to mine since he has his done. I tried numerous fuses before I looked at J.A.'s foglight mod and finally got it to work once we looked at his website. Well in the process we removed and replaced numerous fuses. When I got in the truck to leave everything would come on as far as the dash and dome lights etc etc but it wouldnt turn over. We pulled fuse after fuse to find out they were good and they all were. After that I pulled the negative terminal off for 20 minutes to let the computer reset and then tried to start it with no luck. The truck acted as if the security immobilizer was activated. So I pulled the door lock fuse and saw that the prong was bent, I replaced said fuse and voila, It started.

So this leads me to my theory..... The reason it died tonight is that the computer hadnt "re-learned" everything yet. Since resetting the computer yesterday I had maybe driven 6-10 miles before this stop sign escapade where the truck died tonight. Am I right? Have any more ideas or input? Let me know, it would be appreciated.

Zach

:keyboard:
 
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Your hunch makes sense, if it happens again after passing 50 miles since the reset you'll need to investigate father.
 
Yesterday was super odd but we were on the right track from the get go. Might want to replace that door lock fuse and also look into making sure you still have good contact on the other slots where we put the little jumoer thing in. That had to expand the fuse slots at least a little. Maybe enough to cause an inconsistant connection. Could be the computer relearning stuff as well. Consider yesterday was 40 and a cold rain falling and today was 70 and sunny, I would think that's a possibility.

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Husker Z said:
Yesterday was super odd but we were on the right track from the get go. Might want to replace that door lock fuse and also look into making sure you still have good contact on the other slots where we put the little jumoer thing in. That had to expand the fuse slots at least a little. Maybe enough to cause an inconsistant connection. Could be the computer relearning stuff as well. Consider yesterday was 40 and a cold rain falling and today was 70 and sunny, I would think that's a possibility.

Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks buddy, want to have some more beers and tackle it?
 
Did you use one of those "add-a-fuse" jumpers? If so that will cause problems if it's anything like the one I once used. Basically it spread the connectors to the point of preventing a good connection consistently on my previous truck, drove me nuts trying to find the problem.
 
CXS said:
Did you use one of those "add-a-fuse" jumpers? If so that will cause problems if it's anything like the one I once used. Basically it spread the connectors to the point of preventing a good connection consistently on my previous truck, drove me nuts trying to find the problem.
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Yep, thats exactly what I used. I need to go and "close the gaps" where the fuses mount too I guess to rule anything out.
 
Well at least we're all thinking on the same lines. Garage time with brews? I'm in!

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CXS said:
Yeah, those things are trouble IMHO. Nothing a few beers and some garage time can't fix though.

I have the OME 884 Front and OME 895 Rear springs.
Click to expand...

Kind of what I was thinking, def could be worse.

OME stuff looks good on your truck, I'm thinking about ditching my current setup for something similar.
 
Well here's how day 2 with the issue has gone........f@ck.

a6898c16-0004-ab35.jpg
 
CXS said:
Yikes! That's certainly not good, what's the story today?
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Got it towed to work (for free thank god) and I started at the fuse box. The fuse connection where the fuse mounts into the fuse block got pushed down in the fiasco the other day and spread open (efi fuse). So I pulled it back up to where it needs to be and re inserted the fuse. The truck started right back up. I've driven only about 5 miles since and everything was fine. I just hope it stays.

Let's just say I'm done with electrical stuff for awhile. I'm decent at turning a wrench but this whole deal has been a pain. Oh well could be worse.


Cheers
 
Thanks. I'll look for it.

I have an electrical problem, and I have checked every fuse, and can't fine one that is blown. Plus I switched a relay marked dome light in the fuse box under the hood, and that relay is not the problem.

I have a 2009 SR5 that I have had about 6 months now. Ever since I bought it, the two map lights would come on and off when opening and closing the doors, but not near as bright -- much dimmer than the push on map lights. Also, they would fade on and off. My runner had the plain jane rear view mirror, so I bought a compass/auto-dim/homelink mirror, and wired into the overhead wiring (I have the sunroof), per instructions on a thread here on the forum.

Ever since I wired in the new rear view mirror, I lost the map lights on-off with the doors action. So after checking every fuse both under the hood and under and not finding any blown ones, I temporarily removed the rear view mirror wiring to see if that would bring back my map lights, but it did not.

I posted a thread about this, and the forum members who answered, didn't seem to even believe that I ever had OEM map lights that came on with the doors, as they said they had never heard of that, but I most definitely did. And no, mine hasn't been modded to have that feature, as the wiring is not there, plus with the mod, the map lights with door activation come up to full brightness, and mine only came up to I'll guess about 25-35% brightness with door activation.

Anyone have any suggestion at all where to trace the problem for my lost door activated map lights?
 
are u referring to the dome lights? those are the ones that can be set to off/on/or with door. the map lights are the ones upfront by the mirror.
 
chaz said:
are u referring to the dome lights? those are the ones that can be set to off/on/or with door. the map lights are the ones upfront by the mirror.
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I'm referring to my two map lights by the rear view mirror. They faded in and out via door activation, but at their door-activation max brightness, were a much dimmer level than when turned on manually by pushing the individual map lights on.

So far, members here seem to be skeptical, but that's absolutely the way they were working on my 2009 until something happened after I wired in the rear view mirror, as I explained.
 
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