4Runner Engineers are my heros

Surprised someone in the Toyota family has a Hyundai.

How is it, compared to our reliability?

To be honest, exceptional reliability, just like my 4Runner. The Accent is a 2008, with 116k, maintained only by me, since the dealer 500-mile free checkup. (Well, he finally has learned to do his own oil changes.) Aside from routine maintenance, only repair items were a brake light switch (recall item that he never bothered to resolve) and two of four coil packs (known issue). Pretty astonishing, for a kid's first new car that cost him less than $10k. Total base model--I had to retrofit A/C for him--it was the cheapest new car out there at the time. Still has factory clutch and front brakes, to my amazement. The kid does baby it.

Changing the timing belt is half the work of the 4Runner, but it's a little sideways 4-banger. It's also interference.
 
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90's BMW vs 90's 4Runner - the BMW is a ton easier. Don't argue that they made it easy to work on because they always break. That 530i has been as reliable as a 4Runner.

Oil filter - PITA.

Rear shocks - PITA.

That stupid plastic wire covering that shatters to oblivion when you eventually have to change your VCG's.

Toyota connectors are a serious PITA compared to other makes IMO.

I'm sure I could find more things.

There's still no other SUV I find as appealing off the showroom floor. :)
 
Wall-o-text

I'd say my 2000 BMW is easier than my 4runner but not by much. No drum brakes, spark plugs all easy to access and in a row, however rear shock mounts are a pain the first time on both.

I also already own the torx and etorx(external torx? Bits needed.

Majority of the sockets are all 11,13,15,17 just like Toyota's are 12/14/17/19. Only place I know of under the hood that is etorx is the bell housing to block and driveshafts to diff. The inline 6 is easier to service than the V6 IMO.

The later models E9x and up I would guess get more complex but they are much more complex machines and hard to to 20 year older chassis. Just like the old school muscle guys prefer their carbs and distributers over fuel injection and coil packs. It's all what you're used to at that point.
 
I'd say my 2000 BMW is easier than my 4runner but not by much. No drum brakes, spark plugs all easy to access and in a row, however rear shock mounts are a pain the first time on both.

I also already own the torx and etorx(external torx? Bits needed.


Yes, but do you own wrenches that fit them? And ratchet wrenches? You need those to do major work on the newer ones. I have a whole drawer in my tool box that's stuff I only use on the BMW.


Majority of the sockets are all 11,13,15,17 just like Toyota's are 12/14/17/19. Only place I know of under the hood that is etorx is the bell housing to block and driveshafts to diff. The inline 6 is easier to service than the V6 IMO.

The later models E9x and up I would guess get more complex but they are much more complex machines and hard to to 20 year older chassis. Just like the old school muscle guys prefer their carbs and distributers over fuel injection and coil packs. It's all what you're used to at that point.

There's TONS of torx under the hood of the newer stuff. But then they switch back to hex heads for some things, and then allens in spots where a torx would have worked just fine. It makes no sense.

I'll give you an example.

Water pump...torx
Steering rack...torx
Steering line brackets... hex
Motor mounts...torx
Turbo manifolds.... hex
Turbo oil and water lines...allen

To get the turbos off one of these cars you need 8 different size torx bits, another half dozen hex sizes, and two different allens.
 
I really only have two complaints so far.

1. Oil filter. Hate it. I can't change the oil without leaving some oil behind. Even if I shove a bunch of paper towels in there, which just seems wasteful.

2. The skid plate that covers the oil pan/steering rack - Mine does not like to go on at all, could just be mine though.
 
What is wrong with the rear shocks? I am fixing to remove them for my Tokico ones this weekend.

Nothing is wrong with them, I've just heard horrors of the top nut being a PITA to get to since its close to the body on top of a frame mount and a weird spot to get to.

I will be experiencing first hand in a few weeks when my 5100 fronts and new top hats show up and can report back but its been covered around the board pretty thoroughly.
 
What is wrong with the rear shocks? I am fixing to remove them for my Tokico ones this weekend.

Try and get that top nut off, 10 bucks says it's either rusted on or stripped.

It's not really that bad though, just go it in knowing you're not getting the nut off and either break or cut the shock off and save yourself the hassle.
 
Try and get that top nut off, 10 bucks says it's either rusted on or stripped.

It's not really that bad though, just go it in knowing you're not getting the nut off and either break or cut the shock off and save yourself the hassle.

Well poop. I will report back on my experience... or give up now and just hang out at the Woodward Dream Cruise this weekend.

So should I just go straight for the cut off wheel? Or attempt to remove the SOB? I read that the nut is only torqued to like 14 ftlbs or something.
 
Sawzall that SOB off. Don't waste your time trying to undo the nut. It'll take you longer to get the sawzall out and plugged in than it will to actually cut through the shock and remove it.
 
Well poop. I will report back on my experience... or give up now and just hang out at the Woodward Dream Cruise this weekend.

So should I just go straight for the cut off wheel? Or attempt to remove the SOB? I read that the nut is only torqued to like 14 ftlbs or something.

Yes. Use your Dremmel/Sawzall/Angle grinder and save some effort. Not to mention you have to have small hands to even get to that nut in the first place.
 

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