4runner inconsistent brakes

dirtdestroyer7

New member
I have a 2013 4runner SR5 with 50K miles. went for inspection and needed front brake pads... no big deal ill throw a set on and brb.... so i thought.

installed new brake pads, no sweat! this is my first yota after being a chevy guy and the "hard to work on" thing is BS, but....

I pull out of the garage and down the driveway and then brake pedal almost to the floor before stopping! pump them up and they are fine. I instantly think somehow air in the lines? but that doesn't make sense i didn't take anything apart? so on to bleeding i go.

chased my tail round and round, bleed until no air, go to next caliper do the same, then at the end check the first one again and more air? 3 quarts of fluid, a few day, and many failed test drives, i went though doing this madness.

so i look on here and start thinking maybe a caliper seal went bad when i pushed them back in? order new caliper (takes a week to get here, no one in town had one) and install, do brake bleed madness again, same problem.

look more on here, see the same problems from a few others but never an update for resolution.

back on the lift i started spinning the front wheels and the drivers would hang a little in one spot, i thought the rotor was warped a little no biggie the new pads well wear in, but i took the wheel off anyway. started messing with the rotor and had a bunch of rust fall out from behind (common), put wheel back on and it spins free now? back car out and brakes are prefect!

so hopefully i can save others by saying take your rotors off and make sure nothing is behind them throwing them off b/c i believe that is what caused the breaks to feel like they had air in the lines. I wasted a week, 90$ caliper, my sanity, 3 quarts of fluid, and days of bleeding on this "so easy my kid can do it" brake job.

hope this can help someone out!
 
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But you did have air in the lines after just a pad swap?

It seems like you did have a bad caliper seal. After a caliper swap I prefer to let the vehicle start with a gravity drain before starting the actual flush. Usually takes a minute. Takes little effort. It's efficient. Creates very little mess.

Take cap off master cylinder. Open bleeder valve. Wait for fluid to work itself out. Close bleeder. Now start normal flush operation.
 
i dont believe air was ever the issue, as soon as the rust came out from behind the rotor and wheel spun freely brakes were perfect with no more bleeding.

it almost seems that when rotor got to the point where it was further away you would have to pump the brakes to get the caliper piston out far enough to reach the rotor? im still not really sure what was going on all, speculation at this point, but VERY happy to have my car back.
 
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