4th Gen 4.0L $30 Oil Change and Filter Cross Refrence

074.0Runner

New member
I noticed that there were no DIYs for the oil change on a 4.0 4Runner. Although changing the oil in the 4.0 is super easy, a little guidance is nice, so here it is:

Difficulty: Easy

Cost: $29

Amount saved by DIY: $20-$50

Tools Needed:
-14MM socket
-Small extension
-3/8'' ratchet
-Oil drain pan
-Cardboard sheet
-Jack and jackstands (If it makes it eaiser for you)
-Oil filter removal tool (unless you prefer to man handle it!)
-funnel

Supplies needed:
-5-1/2 Quarts 5W-30 SL grade oil (5 quarts Pennzoil Platinum $23 @ Walmart)
-Oil Filter (Larger size NAPA Gold 1516 $6 @ NAPA)
020-1.jpg~original


Oil Filter Cross Refrence (For 2007; others may vary)
-Stock Size-
AC/Delco: PF53
Amsoil: EAO57
Baldwin: BT223
Bosch: 3330 or 72161
K&N: HP-1002
Mobil 1 Extended Performance: M-102
Purolator Classic/Prenium Plus: L10241
Purolator Pure1: PL10241
NAPA Gold: 1348
WIX: 51348
Motorcraft: FL793

-Larger Size-
AC/Delco: PFL400A
Amsoil: EAO34
Baldwin: B243
K&N: HP-2009
Mobil 1 Extended Performance: M-209
Purolator Classic/Prenium Plus: L20195
Purolator Pure1: PL20195
NAPA Gold: 1516
WIX: 51516
Motorcraft: FL400S

Stock filter on right, large on left:
033-2.jpg~original


Procedure:
Before starting, let the motor run for 5-10 mins. to warm the oil up. Warm oil flows faster than cold oil and carries more sludge with it.

1. If you are small enough, you can skip this step. Jack up both sides of the truck and place on jackstands. Never work on a vehicle supported only by a jack. Place a piece of cardboard under the truck.
023-3.jpg~original


2. Take both the dipstick and the oil fill cap out. This helps the oil drain faster.
022-3.jpg~original

021-5.jpg~original


3. Get your fat ass under the truck, bringing the wrench and oil drain pan with you. Find the oil drain plug and loosen. It can be very tight, so have a cheater bar on hand (pipe that you insert on the end of the wrench to increase leverage on the bolt). Remove drain plug and let oil drain.
024-2.jpg~original


4. While the oil is draining, you can take the time to replace the filter. Find an old empty bottle (I used an old oil quart) and put it under the little nipple on the filter housing like below.
027-2.jpg~original

029-2.jpg~original


5. Take the oil filter wrench of your choice and unscrew the oil filter. Let the oil drain into the bottle, remove the bottle, and discard the filter.
030-1.jpg~original


6. Lubricate the gasket of the new filter with some oil. This will make the filter easy to take off. Then fill the filter with some oil and let the oil soak into the filter media. Clean the filter mounting area, then install the new filter. Tighten 3/4 turn past hand tight.

7. When the drain of the oil becomes a very slow drip, clean up the drain plug area with a towel, then re-install the drain plug. Torque to 30 ft pounds.

9. Take a funnel, insert it in the oil fill hole, and slowly pour 5-1/2 quarts of oil into the motor.

10. Start motor and check for leaks.

11. Rotate tires and grease u-joints as described in this thread:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/maintenance/28414-07-v8-4x4-zerk-fitting-pics.html

12. Reset Engine Oil Replacement Reminder. Turn ignition key to the "ACC" or "LOCK" position. While pressing the trip meter reset button, turn the igniton key to "ON" and keep pressing the trip meter reset button until the light goes out. Record mileage in Maintnance booklet.

13. Take off of jack stands and go for a drive. Enjoy!!!

If there is anything someone would like to add, or change, or if I forgot or am wrong on something, please post it in this thread!
 
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Looks good!
1) Got a pic of the drainplug from a little farther away showing the plug and the oval cutout in the skid?
2) Oil filter: Before you put the catch bottle in there pull off the rubber nipple cover on the bottom of the filter catch pan.


:cheers:
 
Last edited:
074.0Runner, thank you for the write-up. Hope it helps out new 4th gen owners find the oil plug and avoid mistaking the transmission plug.
 
This is the info I've been looking for!!!

-Stock Size-
Purolator Pure1: PL10241

-Larger Size-
Purolator Pure1: PL20195

Thanks! Where did u find this info? I've wanted to know this for a while!
 
Nice writeup, I haven't done my first change, was wondering how I'd catch the oil under that cool filter setup. I use Toyota filters while my Toyotas are still under warranty, and always getting a new drain plug crush washer with each filter. They throw it in free, so why not?

I always pre-fill my filters, I can see this is going to be a problem here. I'll at least put some oil in and let it soak into the filter medium, hopefully the oil will get through the filter quicker on my first startup that way. Or maybe I'll pull a wire and crank it to get oil in the new filter.

If I pop a hole in the filter housing, will it drain into the pan before I loosen it?

How does this save money when I get $24.95 oil changes from the dealer?

If it's equivalent oil that's a better deal. I use Shell RotellaT synthetic or Mobil1 extended performance, definitely not gonna happen for under $40.
 
BTW here is the Donaldson Filter # P550335

Most Caterpillar Dealerships are Donaldson and Baldwin dealers also. Here in Boise, we sell this filter for 5.56.
 
How does this save money when I get $24.95 oil changes from the dealer?
Is the oil your dealer using synthetic?
Looks good!
1) Got a pic of the drainplug from a little farther away showing the plug and the oval cutout in the skid?
2) Oil filter: Before you put the catch bottle in there pull off the rubber nipple cover on the bottom of the filter catch pan.


:cheers:
I think I have a pic of that, but it is not very good.
I dont have that little cap. Must have been thrown away when I had the first coulple oil changes done. I had them done by a quick lube place (stupid me!!!:ybrick:). Isnt that ironic?:wow:
Uneek said:
074.0Runner, thank you for the write-up. Hope it helps out new 4th gen owners find the oil plug and avoid mistaking the transmission plug.
Thanks!
chayos00 said:
This is the info I've been looking for!!!

-Stock Size-
Purolator Pure1: PL10241

-Larger Size-
Purolator Pure1: PL20195

Thanks! Where did u find this info? I've wanted to know this for a while!
PM Sent.
scottm said:
Nice writeup, I haven't done my first change, was wondering how I'd catch the oil under that cool filter setup. I use Toyota filters while my Toyotas are still under warranty, and always getting a new drain plug crush washer with each filter. They throw it in free, so why not?

I always pre-fill my filters, I can see this is going to be a problem here. I'll at least put some oil in and let it soak into the filter medium, hopefully the oil will get through the filter quicker on my first startup that way. Or maybe I'll pull a wire and crank it to get oil in the new filter.

If I pop a hole in the filter housing, will it drain into the pan before I loosen it?
Edited the thread with this.
I've tried this on a Camry and my push mower before and the oil didnt drain out of the filter. Anyway, the 4.0's awesome filter design makes this not needed.
 
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I dont have that little cap. Must have been thrown away when I had the first coulple oil changes done. I had them done by a quick lube place (stupid me!!!:ybrick:). Isnt that ironic?:wow:

Hmm, hadn't thought of this, but maybe my used truck bought at auction was dealer serviced, because that cap is still there? It has a Toyota filter on it. I guess that cap would be good if your filter leaked a little, I'm not sure what good it is otherwise.
 
074.0Runner,

thank you for the excellent write-up!!

1GR is by far the easiest oil change I've ever done.

• Don't need a jack or jackstands.
• That oil filter location w/ the built in cup w/ the nipple on the bottom...Oh Man!!

I just did my oil change recently & I have a small suspension lift...oh man, was it EVEN easier.
 
Last edited:
Hmm, hadn't thought of this, but maybe my used truck bought at auction was dealer serviced, because that cap is still there? It has a Toyota filter on it. I guess that cap would be good if your filter leaked a little, I'm not sure what good it is otherwise.

The cap/plug isn't a big deal. I took mine off and left it off since.
 
Can a Moderator please make this a Sticky under Maintenance!!
thumb_up.gif

It does look good. I don't mind making it a sticky. If we get too cluttered up, then maybe we can un-sticky it.

I have been changing oil for over 40 years and I haven't never thought of, or heard of pulling out the dipstick to help drain the oil. I have taken the fill cap off, but this is a first.

"2. Take both the dipstick and the oil fill cap out. This helps the oil drain faster."

It is a good job, now someone should try and show how to change the oil in the 3.4 V6, third gen. Which by the way, is the hardest oil change I have ever done.:ybrick:
 
BTW here is the Donaldson Filter # P550335

Most Caterpillar Dealerships are Donaldson and Baldwin dealers also. Here in Boise, we sell this filter for 5.56.

Donaldson (w/SynTeq media) is probably the best filter out there. Im going to start using the P169071 on mine, I have seen some amazing analysis up to 15K miles on the oil.
 
At the risk of a minor thread hijack I'm adding the pics to help with the oil filter. I'm also adding a general orientation for the drainplug to help avoid those "Oh crap, I just drained my transmission fluid, now what?" posts.:bash:

IMG_0401.jpg~original


IMG_0392.jpg~original
 
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I have been changing oil for over 40 years...

...now someone should try and show how to change the oil in the 3.4 V6, third gen. Which by the way, is the hardest oil change I have ever done.:ybrick:

Yes, it would be really great if one of the members here who had a lot of experience with oil changes and a 3.4L would do something like that... I wonder who could do such a thing:confused: :whipping2

:lmao::p j/k



I will come over and run the camera for you if you like. For real, I'm not kidding about that:D
 

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