earthrealm
Senior Member
am doing this soon!...good write up
4th gen 4.0L Throttle Body Cleaning (with pics)
- Thread starter CJ3Flyr
- Start date
Duck'n
New member
All was going well until one of my throttle-body bolts broke! Now I am wondering if my torque wrench (not an expensive one) is suspect. I had it set to 15 lbs. and it seemed like they were getting REAL tight so I am thinking I have a problem with the wrench. Other than that, my throttle-body was FILTHY and it looks ALOT better. The MAF looked very clean but I sprayed it with MAF cleaner anyway. Now I just have to wait for the bolts to come in. I am getting chummy with the local dealers parts department!
earthrealm
Senior Member
pls confirm that u can use the throttle body cleaner to also clean the MAF sensor
Duck'n
New member
Bolts came in today so I buttoned her all back up. Runs great! I didn't drive it around too much as my wife wanted this dime in her suburban now but it does some more responsive and to shift better. On a side note, the job on my wife's Vortex was a lot easier. Her MAF was also a lot dirtier. Anyway, great write up and I am glad I did it. Considering Seafoaming it now but still reading up on it. I JUST installed iridiums so I want to make sure I do t mess them up!
So I did this and reset ecu. The problem I'm having is when I bought the truck when I cranked it I don't remember it starting up the rpms this high. Basically at start it goes up to 2k then slowly brings it down to about 1k-1200. It never really sits back below 1k until I put it in gear. Before this it would sit around 600-800. I don't really know if this is normal. My TB was filthy though and I did an ecu reset no cels or anything just seems like high idle.
jpless
New member
Normal. Just did mine recently. Also installed a URD maf cal and same thing. Each time you reset the ecu, at least by disconnecting the battery, it'll jump. Take it down the street and it'll go back to normal.
Going to bring this thread back from the dead! Thanks to OP for this post. I have been meaning to do this for a long time. I had a day to myself, so what better to do than some vehicle maintenance!!! I followed the directions of the OP, but I decided to disconnect the coolant hoses so I could get the TB out of the engine bay and scrub it real good with a toothbrush. I was surprised, probably shouldn't have been, with the "gunk" on the back of the throttle body. Here are before and after pics. Total time of the diy was maybe 40minutes. Piece of cake. The car really does drive much better now. We'll see if I increase the fuel mileage or not.
I also just did a bad thing and broke one of the throttle body mount bolts. My wrench was set to 15lbs and it seemed like the bolt just kept spinning until it broke. I put a dap of anti-seize on so maybe that had something to do with it?
Anyways, I am in a bad spot because I don't have another car and am actually in Baja Mexico, about 2 hours south of San Diego. I have no idea how I am going to get a replacement bolt. Do you think I could safely drive the truck with only 3 of the 4 throttle body bolts in place? The other 3 bolts were spinning too and I didn't want to over tighten them and break them too. But is seems secure.
Anyways, I am in a bad spot because I don't have another car and am actually in Baja Mexico, about 2 hours south of San Diego. I have no idea how I am going to get a replacement bolt. Do you think I could safely drive the truck with only 3 of the 4 throttle body bolts in place? The other 3 bolts were spinning too and I didn't want to over tighten them and break them too. But is seems secure.
Continued high idle after TB cleaning
Did a lot of searching with no viable answers for my high idle after TB cleaning.
2008 4runner V6 116K mile:
- cleaned my MAF and dirty TB for the first time since I had a low idle after a battery replacement
- after several weeks of driving (and battery & EFI fuse disconnect/re-connect) still having high idle (1200-1300 in park and ~900 in drive). Also idles a lot higher when first starting it up cold (~1800rpm, think it used to be ~1400)
- did recheck all hoses, etc.. for any vacuum leaks
- checked the inside bore of the TB and don't see anything that is jamming/binding the butterfly to cause a high idle.
I didn't replace the rubber TB gasket but it doesn't look bad.
I cleaned the TB with the CRC fluid on a towel and wiped the inside of the TB really hard, wonder now if I might have taken some (alum) material off the inside of the TB to cause a wider open against the butterfly??
Any suggestions before I go for a new (refurbed) TB for about $100.
Thanks
Did a lot of searching with no viable answers for my high idle after TB cleaning.
2008 4runner V6 116K mile:
- cleaned my MAF and dirty TB for the first time since I had a low idle after a battery replacement
- after several weeks of driving (and battery & EFI fuse disconnect/re-connect) still having high idle (1200-1300 in park and ~900 in drive). Also idles a lot higher when first starting it up cold (~1800rpm, think it used to be ~1400)
- did recheck all hoses, etc.. for any vacuum leaks
- checked the inside bore of the TB and don't see anything that is jamming/binding the butterfly to cause a high idle.
I didn't replace the rubber TB gasket but it doesn't look bad.
I cleaned the TB with the CRC fluid on a towel and wiped the inside of the TB really hard, wonder now if I might have taken some (alum) material off the inside of the TB to cause a wider open against the butterfly??
Any suggestions before I go for a new (refurbed) TB for about $100.
Thanks
ugg.. broke vacuum line 
Okay, so as it seems someone else already has done, I broke a vacuum line. It is so small at the back, and I was twisting the whole unit back on to the throttle body after cleaning and SNAP. I didn't even feel like I put that much stress on it..
ANYWAY...
This vacuum tube is AFTER the air filter, but that is all.
Can someone confirm what this is for? Is there a sensor in that upper housing piece (that holds the air filter)? or is it just a place it can suck clean air from?
is there some special air pressure in that housing? I imagine it is simply atmospheric as the airfilter (if not clogged) should let air pass un impeded.
IF there is not sensor, and it is only atmospheric pressure, can I just put a mini air filter on the end of my broken hose? Seems taht till be easier then trying to re-attach it?
I appreciate any guidance, and explanation you can give me. If you have any questions, or I have not explained it very well, let me know I can take photos or you tube or what ever.
Okay, so as it seems someone else already has done, I broke a vacuum line. It is so small at the back, and I was twisting the whole unit back on to the throttle body after cleaning and SNAP. I didn't even feel like I put that much stress on it..
ANYWAY...
This vacuum tube is AFTER the air filter, but that is all.
Can someone confirm what this is for? Is there a sensor in that upper housing piece (that holds the air filter)? or is it just a place it can suck clean air from?
is there some special air pressure in that housing? I imagine it is simply atmospheric as the airfilter (if not clogged) should let air pass un impeded.
IF there is not sensor, and it is only atmospheric pressure, can I just put a mini air filter on the end of my broken hose? Seems taht till be easier then trying to re-attach it?
I appreciate any guidance, and explanation you can give me. If you have any questions, or I have not explained it very well, let me know I can take photos or you tube or what ever.
Oh ,. and one additional thing, I *** THINK** ( could easily be wrong), that this goes to a fuel pressure regulator.
sherwoodpfifer
New member
Great Writeup
Thanks for the writeup and pics. This was a huge help. I did this over the weekend and the old girl is running as good or better than the day I bought it. I have an 04 SR5 with 104K miles. The throttle body was filthy. It looks great now. Just a couple of things I would recommend during this process....
1. Use BG's Throttle Body cleaner (makers of 44K). It was great taking the gunk off with ease. I've used other brands and this one worked best.
2. Replace the O-Ring throttle body gasket/seal. It's $10 from the dealer or $7 for the fel-pro version. It's the easiest thing to do and should be done when performing this. My old one was brittle
Thanks for the writeup and pics. This was a huge help. I did this over the weekend and the old girl is running as good or better than the day I bought it. I have an 04 SR5 with 104K miles. The throttle body was filthy. It looks great now. Just a couple of things I would recommend during this process....
1. Use BG's Throttle Body cleaner (makers of 44K). It was great taking the gunk off with ease. I've used other brands and this one worked best.
2. Replace the O-Ring throttle body gasket/seal. It's $10 from the dealer or $7 for the fel-pro version. It's the easiest thing to do and should be done when performing this. My old one was brittle
Pilotamis
New member
If I unclip the coolant lines, is coolant just going to drain out of them? I don't think it would if the vehicle is changed cold so it doesn't have any pressure in the line. I'd like to really be able to get in there and blast it clean and not worry about tweeting something.
Silver_midlife_t4r
New member
Great write up! Did you ever find one for the V8?
3eyedRaven
New member
Def gonna do this after what I saw in my TB after removing that damn carbon filter. It was 'horrid'. Always finding good things on this forum. Thanks All!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
myToyota4runner
New member
Did this on my 1999 4Runner
I did this and made a video of it. Its pretty simple.
1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited Ed. 5VZ-FE 3.4L
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1bgt9FBQ1-E
I did this and made a video of it. Its pretty simple.
1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited Ed. 5VZ-FE 3.4L
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1bgt9FBQ1-E
budlight94
New member
Rmps jumping
I have an 07 4runner, v8 4.7 motor. For the past couple of days when i'm driving and go to hit the breaks the rmps will jump and drop the level out. I have no codes coming up on the dash. Ive cleaned out the throttle body and it still does it. I can be going 45 and set the cruse and it will jump from 2k rmp to 2,500 then down to 1500 and back to 2k. When I crank it up, it use to idle at 500 to 700, now when I crank it up it jumps to 2k and will slowly drop to 1200 but won't go below that and it will bounce up and down a few 100 rmps just sitting there. Does anyone know what this could be?
I have an 07 4runner, v8 4.7 motor. For the past couple of days when i'm driving and go to hit the breaks the rmps will jump and drop the level out. I have no codes coming up on the dash. Ive cleaned out the throttle body and it still does it. I can be going 45 and set the cruse and it will jump from 2k rmp to 2,500 then down to 1500 and back to 2k. When I crank it up, it use to idle at 500 to 700, now when I crank it up it jumps to 2k and will slowly drop to 1200 but won't go below that and it will bounce up and down a few 100 rmps just sitting there. Does anyone know what this could be?
