4th Gen Brake Upgrade Glock_19 by Ducmonsta

Are there any potential problems that could be caused by trimming the backing plate like that? What does the backing plate do? Improve airflow to the rotor? Keep water and debris off the rotor?
 
Are there any potential problems that could be caused by trimming the backing plate like that? What does the backing plate do? Improve airflow to the rotor? Keep water and debris off the rotor?

As far as I know it's just a dust shield. You should actually get improved air flow to your brakes if you completely removed them. My buddy has a CTS-V with no dust shields (it's mostly a track car).
 
Rotors are from EBC. They are the sport rotors. Calipers can be had at any local auto parts store. We opted to go with the OEM ones. If anything leaves our shop with our stamp of approval, it has to have quality components. I always recommend oe vs. aftermarket.

Okay, quick question... I am looking on a few online parts stores that sell ebc rotors, a lot of them say that under fitment that they fit the sport, sr5, and limited, so that means that they are the same size.. how do I find the bigger rotors?
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=83730&stc=1&d=1363397467
 

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Another interesting tid-bit:

My 2008 V8 SR5 has the 13WL calipers. So I have the larger size calipers with the slightly smaller diameter rotors.

But.... I can (and do) use 16" wheels; and that, to me, would seem to be the most versatile combination.
 
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Great question!

You could install the backing plate from a sport brake system. However, it would require the removal of the front wheel bearing from the spindle. That is a lot to take on just for the backing plate.

I actually finished this same mod this morning. I did the left side a few days ago and simply bent the dust shield back out of the way of the larger rotor. I wait until this morning to do the right side because I had the early signs of a problem with the wheel bearing. I used an electric trimmer to cut the edges back similarly to how it is shown on this thread, and then rounded the edges with a grinder.

I had planned on leaving the dust shield off, but my friend (30+ year mechanic) said to keep it. He said the main thing he was concerned about was keeping the brake dust off the CV boot. One day I may replace the one I bent back on the left, but it hasn't given me any problems in the short term.

The wheel bearing was quite easy to pull from the spindle. An air impact driver with a 35mm socket to remove the axle nut, and then 4 17mm bolts holding the wheel bearing to the back plate. Once the bolts were loosed all the way out, a three jaw pulley puller was used to slide the wheel bearing off the spindle while keeping it straight. The whole job on the right side took about 2.5 hours. That includes pulling and replacing the wheel bearing a second time because we put it on the first time without the dust shield. One of the hardest parts was getting the dust cap off without damaging it. I recommend using a painters tool and a small hammer to slowly back the dust cap out of it's mount.
 
any real noticeable increasein braking power?...am still on the fence about doing this mod

I am curious about doing this as well. I have been very disappointed with the braking performance that I had so far, esp compared to the FJ and gx470. Has this actually improved the responsiveness and have you seen a noticeable difference in braking power?
 
Are there any potential problems that could be caused by trimming the backing plate like that? What does the backing plate do? Improve airflow to the rotor? Keep water and debris off the rotor?

The brake backing plate does a couple things, first it helps prevent debris and such from getting between the back of the rotor and the hub, ect ect. Second, it funnels air through the rotor to cool it much like the ducting on high end sports cars and race cars. The air flow is supposed to go through the back of the rotor and out through the edge if I remember right.
 
[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION]..............u suggesting trimming the plate is a bad idea?.......but thats about the only option for the brake upgrade.............unless of course going the other tedious route of pressing out the spindle and installing the correct backing plate size
 
Great question!

You could install the backing plate from a sport brake system. However, it would require the removal of the front wheel bearing from the spindle. That is a lot to take on just for the backing plate.

[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION]..............u suggesting trimming the plate is a bad idea?.......but thats about the only option for the brake upgrade.............unless of course going the other tedious route of pressing out the spindle and installing the correct backing plate size

just buy the sport backing plates ahead of time. and swap them over whenever you do the bearings.

but, just pulling the bearing off shouldn't be too bad. just 4 bolts, and the axle nut.
 
just buy the sport backing plates ahead of time. and swap them over whenever you do the bearings.

but, just pulling the bearing off shouldn't be too bad. just 4 bolts, and the axle nut.

Front bearings on the 4r are pressed into the spindle. Not easy without a press. You're thinking of a jeep style front end which has a separable hub assy.
 
hmm. I just looked up the labor, it gives like 3 hours per SIDE.

there must be something im missing here..

I haven't had a chance to tear into mine, so I haven't actually pulled one apart.
but generally a bolt-on hub assembly is around an hour per side...
 
hmm. I just looked up the labor, it gives like 3 hours per SIDE.

there must be something im missing here..

I haven't had a chance to tear into mine, so I haven't actually pulled one apart.
but generally a bolt-on hub assembly is around an hour per side...

Not sure what you're confused about. Your link explains that it needs to be pressed in.
 
Ok, nevermind. That guy is already doing the work for you. You just have to install the entire assembly together. The 3 hours of labor would have included the time it would take to remove the old bearing from the hub and press a new one in. This guy is selling the bearing and hub together. This would be the way to go. Assuming this guy presses the bearing into the hub assembly properly.

Dorman is an aftermarket company that manufactures the hubs. I would pay to have Toyota ones. You'll see a significant price difference.

I personally would rather reuse my existing hubs so that I don't introduce a potential quality issue with the aftermarket hub and installation.
 
Ok, nevermind. That guy is already doing the work for you. You just have to install the entire assembly together. The 3 hours of labor would have included the time it would take to remove the old bearing from the hub and press a new one in. This guy is selling the bearing and hub together. This would be the way to go. Assuming this guy presses the bearing into the hub assembly properly.

Dorman is an aftermarket company that manufactures the hubs. I would pay to have Toyota ones. You'll see a significant price difference.

I personally would rather reuse my existing hubs so that I don't introduce a potential quality issue with the aftermarket hub and installation.

huh?

that link was just to point out that the hub bolts on.
so you can simply unbolt the hub, swap the backing plate, and bolt the hub back on. you wouldn't have to change the bearings. no pressing involved.

I just made the suggestion to buy the plates ahead of time, and have them ready, so WHEN you do have to change the bearings, you can just swap the correct plate on.


either way, good info here. thanks for the write-up.
 
huh?

that link was just to point out that the hub bolts on.
so you can simply unbolt the hub, swap the backing plate, and bolt the hub back on. you wouldn't have to change the bearings. no pressing involved.

I just made the suggestion to buy the plates ahead of time, and have them ready, so WHEN you do have to change the bearings, you can just swap the correct plate on.


either way, good info here. thanks for the write-up.

We're saying the same thing. I was just explaining the differences in labor you've found.
The 3 hrs per side would involve pressing the bearing assembly together.

The 1hr or so would be to just swap, the already pressed together, hub AND bearing assembly. This is what that guy is selling.

But, yes, it would be easy to replace the backing plate if you are going to remove/replace the hub AND bearing assembly.
 
The caliper on the left (WH) has mounting points farther away than the (WL) caliper. This is the only difference between the two. The pistons are the same, the pad area is the same, which makes the pads identical.

So, what is actually giving you "better" braking here? If the piston size and quantity did not change, then the pressure/volume of the caliper is unchanged and is therefore not adding to the braking power.

If the pad size did not change, even though the rotor has gotten larger, the pad is still the same size meaning the pad surface contact area to the rotor did not change. Unless of course the smaller rotor is not making contact with the entire pad surface to begin with.

The only possible added braking would come from the fact that the caliper is clamping the rotor at a larger outer diameter which should give it a bit more leverage...but it looks like the upgrade rotor is only about 1/4" in radius larger. Not sure how much extra leverage this 1/4" could give if even noticeable.
 

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