4Th Gen Chat Thread

cpark_12 said:
I know this doesn't completely pertain to 4runners, but i gave my brother my stock wheels and 265/70 17 at3 tires to put on his grand wagoneer. We put about a 4" lift on it too. I think it looks great! So, if anyone ever wondered what a wagoneer would look like with 17" sport wheels, her you go!

86809d01a73431b013bb5686457e1114.jpg


All the weight is on the tires in that pic.

ea76a3f86bf8bab0862739bda99cec28.jpg
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Wow! Brings back memories! Had a 87, dark blue with tan shag carpet, that thing was a beast!! Best riding suv i have ever had. Me and the wife took it to Myrtle Beach right after our first kid was born and about half way there started acting crazy, like a tranny slip (took it to Tad's tranny shop, great guy!). Had to rent a car while there but drove to back all way home. Come to find out it had a hairline crack in the t-case, needless to say the wife wanted it gone no matter what it was, it was a trip we would never forget!! I could tell more stories about that thing....:p
 
LTDSC said:
i had an 06 jeep unlimited. the last year of the i6 and was the extended jeep. I loved it except it rode like dog shit. Bump steer, super stiff. Otherwise was a fun ride, i miss it.
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i had an 05 LJ in high school. the best way ive found to describe it is being the funnest piece of shit you'll ever own. but some times i do really miss it, just not the constant money dump.
 
Brake pads

HOW DO BIG O TIRE NAPA "PREMIUM" PADS COMPARE TO OEM?

BOUT TO GET MY BRAKES DONE.:hatsoff:
 
awdjunkies said:
never had them, so i cannot compare sorry. But are you getting them done? Or are you doing them yourself?
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yes im just getting them done, dont have the time right now to do myself. The manager at big o said the napa premiums are better than oem, but who knows if that true.
 
ddnww said:
yes im just getting them done, dont have the time right now to do myself. The manager at big o said the napa premiums are better than oem, but who knows if that true.
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Ahh gotcha.. Hmm, if anything you could check to see what type of warranty they have? I know it's a wear and tear item but if they guaranty them for (ex.) 50k miles, then they may be worth a shot. Of course as long as they aren't taking your kidney in return.
 
awdjunkies said:
ahh gotcha.. Hmm, if anything you could check to see what type of warranty they have? I know it's a wear and tear item but if they guaranty them for (ex.) 50k miles, then they may be worth a shot. Of course as long as they aren't taking your kidney in return.
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12 month 12k miles

169 front pads and turn rotors
 
Follow up on the LCA bushing and ball joint replacement.
Changed the BJ due to crunch/creaking sound on compression and it was resolved and since I was removing the LCA I figured to replace the bushings with poly ones.
Faster speeds going over speed bumps, you can hear the difference of sound of having them than oem rubber ones.

Now I noticed also, after replacing, when I'm at high speeds and do a fast breaking to slow down, I don't have a shimmy in the front end. Had this for a couple of years, figured it was warped rotors. Guess that wasn't the problem, and not sure exactly which component was the problem.

Now waiting for next weekend to do the new wheel bearing/hubs and see if I have the wheel bearing issue, no sound or crunching while rolling or off the ground turning the tire.

Some of the parts failures we have on these rides are not as easy to diagnose like the old school rides in my past, as far as the sounds/actions they make.
 
having fun said:
Follow up on the LCA bushing and ball joint replacement.
Changed the BJ due to crunch/creaking sound on compression and it was resolved and since I was removing the LCA I figured to replace the bushings with poly ones.
Faster speeds going over speed bumps, you can hear the difference of sound of having them than oem rubber ones.

Now I noticed also, after replacing, when I'm at high speeds and do a fast breaking to slow down, I don't have a shimmy in the front end. Had this for a couple of years, figured it was warped rotors. Guess that wasn't the problem, and not sure exactly which component was the problem.

Now waiting for next weekend to do the new wheel bearing/hubs and see if I have the wheel bearing issue, no sound or crunching while rolling or off the ground turning the tire.

Some of the parts failures we have on these rides are not as easy to diagnose like the old school rides in my past, as far as the sounds/actions they make.
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SIDE NOTE; TWO WORDS I NEVER WANT TO HEAR IN THE SAME SENTENCE:bolt:
 
This is why it was hard to diagnose, made more of old rusty coil springs in a old school
60's car.

Never want to have to REPEAT them words myself.
 
97BlackAckCL said:
I don't think he was talking about ball joints... :naughty:
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OK, sometimes a little slow you know. Old age only allows the brain to think in one directional at a times.

Edit... Now let me get the rest of my additions finished to my truck.
 
Last edited:
having fun said:
Follow up on the LCA bushing and ball joint replacement.
Changed the BJ due to crunch/creaking sound on compression and it was resolved and since I was removing the LCA I figured to replace the bushings with poly ones.
Faster speeds going over speed bumps, you can hear the difference of sound of having them than oem rubber ones.

Now I noticed also, after replacing, when I'm at high speeds and do a fast breaking to slow down, I don't have a shimmy in the front end. Had this for a couple of years, figured it was warped rotors. Guess that wasn't the problem, and not sure exactly which component was the problem.

Now waiting for next weekend to do the new wheel bearing/hubs and see if I have the wheel bearing issue, no sound or crunching while rolling or off the ground turning the tire.

Some of the parts failures we have on these rides are not as easy to diagnose like the old school rides in my past, as far as the sounds/actions they make.
Click to expand...


I need to do this once it gets a little warmer out! My driver side lower bj is bad so i figure i mid as well just do both side and do the bushing while im at it. Did you press the bj's out and in your self? I've heard they can be a little bit of a pita..
 
Nyc-Runner said:
I need to do this once it gets a little warmer out! My driver side lower bj is bad so i figure i mid as well just do both side and do the bushing while im at it. Did you press the bj's out and in your self? I've heard they can be a little bit of a pita..
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Yes, I used a 20t press to do mine both sides. Not a hard job really as long as your bolts are not corroded/stuck, common for trucks in your area. Just need to heat the BJ before pressing. I would change the bushings while your in there.

Just follow the write ups list in search, and if you have the tools and no complications on removal, your good to go.
 
having fun said:
Yes, I used a 20t press to do mine both sides. Not a hard job really as long as your bolts are not corroded/stuck, common for trucks in your area. Just need to heat the BJ before pressing. I would change the bushings while your in there.

Just follow the write ups list in search, and if you have the tools and no complications on removal, your good to go.
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Nice, yeah we have all that at my buddies shop so it should go smooth. Yes i always hit all the nuts and bolts with PB blaster the night before and then the morning of before i do anything like this. I've run into that sh!t to many times in the past,he salt sucks on the east coast!

Great thanks for the feedback..
 
Nyc-Runner said:
Nice, yeah we have all that at my buddies shop so it should go smooth. Yes i always hit all the nuts and bolts with PB blaster the night before and then the morning of before i do anything like this. I've run into that sh!t to many times in the past,he salt sucks on the east coast!

Great thanks for the feedback..
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As I see you have posted in another thread, just make sure you have right size tube spacers. My neighbor had a press and no spacers, had to take a extra socket and grind out the inner side to work.

PB the BJ also, plenty of heat on the BJ. Clean the inner hole and use anti seize before re install. If you are using a grease able replacement, make sure to position it properly. Someone else posted they didn't and was difficult to get to.
 
having fun said:
As I see you have posted in another thread, just make sure you have right size tube spacers. My neighbor had a press and no spacers, had to take a extra socket and grind out the inner side to work.

PB the BJ also, plenty of heat on the BJ. Clean the inner hole and use anti seize before re install. If you are using a grease able replacement, make sure to position it properly. Someone else posted they didn't and was difficult to get to.
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Yeah i commented on the other thread because somebody had just done there's. So i think i'm good to go know, thank god for these forums they really are great to have when preparing to do stuff like this on the truck or anything really :hatsoff::amen: Just after doing a little research i can't believe people go out and spend $300+ to get brand new lowers but i also know not everybody is capable or likes to do their own work.

Again thanks for all the tips i think it should be a pretty simp;e and straight forward swap. I hope i always kick myself when i say( oh yeah it's going to be easy it'll only take 30 min and then 4 hours later haha) :doh:Famous last words. So i go into everything open minded now!..
 
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