4Th Gen Chat Thread

If you are going to come on here and whine about something and NOT take the advice everyone is trying to give you then MOVE ON! I'm getting real sick of several people, mostly new, that are whining about this and that but won't check what we are telling them to check so we can diagnose the issue! This shit is child's play most of the time and easy to work on. If you can't work on it then you shouldn't be modding it unless you have one helluva fat bankroll to pay someone to do your bidding.
Read the sticky's peoples! Almost anything you are going to ask has been answered at least 50 times already! Use the search function, ask here in general chat, don't make a new thread moaning about how your truck is screwed up and you won't even go check a code or show us pics of whats going on or fully answer a question or two!
Ok, end rant. Put your man pants back on, or women's if you prefer, and let's have some fun! :frisky: :lookout: :offtopic: :satan:

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could be sway bar bushings, my 5100's don't squeak a bit. you could check the top nut on the strut though just to be sure

Ya, I already had that squeak that was annoying and took me a month to find. It was the top nut on the bilstein. This squeak sounds different. I will check the sway bar bushing and the lca as you guys suggested.
 
Has anyone setup a three way active front speaker system? Picked up some new drivers and a JBL MS-8 processor to start off with, and Im toying with the idea of mounting the tweets and full ranges in the a pillar. Currently have 6.5" woofers in stock location, full ranges right next to woofers, and tweeters in stock location, but Im not sure I like that arrangement. Was hoping someone else has done something similar to help point me the in right direction in terms of speaker placement.
 
So I have heard this annoying whine, like when the light sabers bounce off each other in Star Wars, and I FINALLY figured out what it was.

The Catalytic converter Heat Shield is rattling around.

I found this parts diagram:

EXHAUST COMPONENTS.. Fits: Toyota 4Runner | Toyota Scion Parts Store

8416193.jpg


It looks like the shield holder #11 is loose and the whole thing is rattling around. I don't see a fastener.

What is the proper way to reattach the heat shield? Does it snap back together, maybe?
 
This is amazing. I have my 4Runner at Karl Malone TOYOTA here in Draper, UT because I'm having them do the headlight swap and they're saying it's not possible..........

Yes, I'm fu*cking rich so paying them to do it is fine by me as I am electrically handicapped. Anyway, carry on everybody.....


Edit: Finally got it sorted out. Needed a 9006 to H11 converter.
 
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So I have heard this annoying whine, like when the light sabers bounce off each other in Star Wars, and I FINALLY figured out what it was.

The Catalytic converter Heat Shield is rattling around.

I found this parts diagram:

EXHAUST COMPONENTS.. Fits: Toyota 4Runner | Toyota Scion Parts Store

8416193.jpg


It looks like the shield holder #11 is loose and the whole thing is rattling around. I don't see a fastener.

What is the proper way to reattach the heat shield? Does it snap back together, maybe?

Mine were rattling, tore them off. No rattle's now! ;) :plane:
 
Random thought to bring this thread back to the first page. I know the Rough Country 6in lift kit raises your center of gravity higher than most would like. What if you combined it with a long travel kit like the Total Chaos 2in with a 4in wider track? Not sure if you could make the two kits compatible, but it would be fun...and expensive.
 
Drop bracket lifts and long travel do not coexist. Not a good idea. Get the 6" lift and get good offset wheels if you want width and height.

People here will shit all over the drop bracket lift but it's ignorant to hate on it. Everyone uses them on FJs and silverados and all other vehicles, they're just fine. Do as you wish to your vehicle.
 
Drop bracket lifts and long travel do not coexist. Not a good idea. Get the 6" lift and get good offset wheels if you want width and height.

People here will shit all over the drop bracket lift but it's ignorant to hate on it. Everyone uses them on FJs and silverados and all other vehicles, they're just fine. Do as you wish to your vehicle.


Drop brackets are the worst invention in the history of mankind
 
Random thought to bring this thread back to the first page. I know the Rough Country 6in lift kit raises your center of gravity higher than most would like. What if you combined it with a long travel kit like the Total Chaos 2in with a 4in wider track? Not sure if you could make the two kits compatible, but it would be fun...and expensive.

Ive only seen a few LT'd and drop bracket lifted trucks, all of which were show trucks in hawaii haha. Just because it can be done, doesn't mean it should. LT adds a lot of extra stresses on components, forces that the drop bracket lift isnt meant to handle.
 
Realistically, it's cheaper to SAS it than to get a drop bracket and a long travel unless you steal them from somewhere...
 
i discovered i can align by eye now. hell yes! Replaced bushings/BJs and aligned myself in driveway, went to drop it off and they said its 100% in spec and looks fine to them.

It tracks 100x better than when they touch it, and steering wheel is straight. SUCCESS!
 
Hey all,

Didn't want to start a whole new thread if I didn't have to.

I picked up some FJ springs, and ordered Bilstein 5100's to go along with them. I plan on using the highest spring perch position in the front, which shield yield about 2.5" of lift, plus the ~0.5" from the FJ springs.

I am going to be using the rear FJ spring which, according to my research, can yield anything from 0.25" to 0.75" in the rear. I'm going to bet on 0.5", but my question is what spacer should I use to achieve a complete level or a slight rake? Ideally, I would like a very minimal amount of rake.


Thanks!
 

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