4th Gen Front OME Suspension Lift Troubleshoot

[RTAYLOR]

I installed the OME 886 setup about 6 months ago, including OME struts and all new hardware from Toytec. I had them preassemble the units. For the installation, I took removed the two lower a-arm ball joint bolts and loosened the UCA, but still struggled to get the lower bolt in there.

Since then I've only put about 900 miles on her, but that did include a few off-road trips. V8 engine, CBI bumper, Engo 10k winch, BudBuilt skids, etc. Also 1" body lift and 255/80 MTs.

I'm worried about the CV angles. I got more lift than I expected and I'm nervous. I've got a few clunks and various noises, mainly off road. I'm sitting at 25" center of hub to bottom of fender.

To the experts, based on the above info and below pictures, what is your opinion?

Thanks in advance.

RT

 

[Mtn.Runner]

The angles don't look to bad but there is a pretty fine line at which they start to operate out of spec. You could try a diff drop. I've actually got one for sale. $20 which is 10 less than retail. It's brand new never installed. PM if interested

 

[RTAYLOR]

Picture

 

[CXS]

I just measured mine at 21.5 and have basically the same setup except the BL which I don't have and the tires, I run 28570's. I'm not sure how to explain the difference but I think you're right to be checking it out. How more lift than expected did you get?

 

[RTAYLOR]

I expected 2.5-3" from the suspension. I didn't take a before measurement. What do you suggest that I inspect? The rear Toytec springs have me at'about the same hub to fender measurement.

 

[gm350reratliff]

Did you tighten the lower strut bolt and LCAs before the vehicle was on its own weight? If so, everything may be in a bind. Try loosening those areas and jounce the front end a few times.

 

[RTAYLOR]

Did you tighten the lower strut bolt and LCAs before the vehicle was on its own weight? If so, everything may be in a bind. Try loosening those areas and jounce the front end a few times.

Is this a common issue, the suspension being in a bind?

I never loosened the LCA bolts on the frame. Only the ones below the ball joint. Which are you referring to? Should I jack the wheel off the ground before I loosen the bolts? I don't see how the lower strut bolts would be affected by how they are tightened

 

[gm350reratliff]

LCAs, UCAs, shackles, lower strut bolt should be torqued at ride height and not full droop. Reason for this is that, at ride height, the bushing should be in a "neutral" position ready to flex either direction. If the bushing(s) are torqued at full droop the bushing will be in a flexed or twisted position (binding) at ride height which can shorten the life of the bushing. When bottoming out the suspension travel (full compression) an improperly torqued bushing can run out of flex causing either the bushing or another component to fail.

 

[aha2988]

LCAs, UCAs, shackles, lower strut bolt should be torqued at ride height and not full droop. Reason for this is that, at ride height, the bushing should be in a "neutral" position ready to flex either direction. If the bushing(s) are torqued at full droop the bushing will be in a flexed or twisted position (binding) at ride height which can shorten the life of the bushing. When bottoming out the suspension travel (full compression) an improperly torqued bushing can run out of flex causing either the bushing or another component to fail.

Agreed! all of the rear link arm bolts also need to be loosened while the vehicle is own it's own weight then re torqued as well as the front upper and lower control arm bushing bolts once you've lifted the vehicle.

 

[aha2988]

I've got a few clunks and various noises, mainly off road.

I have the same front struts as you without a bumper never had any issues, I had to replace my warn out cv axles when i lifted but the new half shafts have held up fine.

off-road your going to get clunks and noises as the suspension flexes and binds and you bump various under parts of the vehicle. Also off-roading your drive shaft is going to do a lot of telescoping as the rear axle travels this can cause clunks and noises excessively if the shaft isnt lubricated regularly.

other than these above statements verify you don't have any play in any of your steering, susspension, or control arm linkages. Also if your rear sway bar is still attached (i noticed your not running the front rock on bro!) Then the factory sway bar end links are extremely tight after the lift odds of the ball joints in those links being shot are very high. you can get extended links to alleviate the bind of the rear sway bar and the bad joints could cause noises as well.

 

[EdmundGTP]

Your CV's are definitely at a steeper angle than mine and I think I'm at about a 3" lift.The front of mine is sitting at roughly 23 and a quarter inches from wheel hub center to fender. Anyone know off hand what the stock measurement of this is?

 

[03_4x4Runner]

You can always put in a dif drop kit if you do not have one. They are cheap.

 

[RTAYLOR]

Thanks everyone for the feedback. I retorqued the UCA and lower strut bolt with all 4 tires on the ground. No changes.

At 25" wheel to fender (includes 1" body lift), it looks like I'm at about 4" over stock. I was hoping for 2.5", so I may swap out the OME coils.