4th gen OEM JBL audio replacement

[syncretic.buffalo]

Hi all. Did a ton of digging here and couldn’t seem to find any answers.

2007 Limited with the JBL system. My subs are blown (I think) - occasionally rattles. I am wanting to replace the system with the exact same subs / tweeters.

I don’t know a ton about car audio - but I’ve already taken the door panels off to take a look. Not interested in upgrading the audio to different aftermarket units. Just want an OEM swap.

Anyone point me in the right direction for the OEM parts? Much appreciated gents!

 

[JH225]

I know you explicitly state that you want an OEM replacement, but man that’s gonna be hard. Junkyard might be your best bet. Otherwise (assuming you find a dealer that is selling OEM speakers) it will likely be much more expensive than to buy aftermarket.

I would give Crutchfield a call. They can set you up with some aftermarket speakers for any price point you’re looking for. They’ll be sure to include any adapters you may need as well. Their business mode is centered around incredible customer support and it will make things very easy for someone with little to no audio experience.

Cheers!


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[Sean7]

finding the OEM sub is going to be really hard and for a decent price.

I replaced mine about 2 month ago and decided to go with this Amazon.com: MB Quart DS1-204 Discus Shallow Mount Subwoofer (Black) – 8 Inch Subwoofer, 400 Watt, Car Audio, 2 Inch Voice Coils, UV Rubber Surround, Best in Sealed Enclosures and it works great.

However, the most popular choice and closest to OEM seems to be this here: https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Subwoofers/Shallow+Mount/TS-SW2002D2

 

[JH225]

Maybe I misread your initial post. You mentioned subs but then mentioned tweeters so I thought you meant tweeters/woofers I.e. your door speakers.

If you’re looking for direct sub replacement, definitely take a look at the links posted above ^^^. That pioneer is great.

FYI: when you go to replace the sub, you gotta take that WHOLE interior panel off to access the sub. The grill guard is permanently attached.


If you want to do some more research on your own, heres all you need to match up to pick your own sub:

- size: stock is 8 inch. Some people have done 10inch but it takes some working.

- impedance: if the stock amp is expects to see a 4ohm load, then its best to replace with a 4ohm load. I don’t know off the top of my head what the stock sub impedance is, but most people have success with a 4ohm sub so that’s probably your starting point.

- power: if you try to drive a massive speaker with a tiny amp, it won’t sound great. If you drive a tiny speaker with massive amp, you kill the speaker. There’s not an exact formula for matching amp power to speaker power, just get them close. I think stock is around 100W Rms.

- Box volume: if you put a tiny speaker in a huge speaker box, it’ll sound weird. This characteristic is quite sensitive, so you’ll want to get pretty close with this one. That being said, not every one will be able to hear the difference between a properly sized box and a poorly sized one. The stock box is a sealed enclosure and has an internal volume of 0.415 cubic feet. If you get a sub designed for a volume close to that, you should be fine.


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[ads2539]

+1 on the 8” Pioneer sub. I have it and I’m very happy with it. A HUGE improvement over the JBL sub. I think I only paid ~$75 for it. Also +1 on just buying aftermarket replacement speakers. Better quality and price in most cases. If you buy speakers at Crutchfield, you usually get adapters and connectors for free or almost free.

Upgrading your stereo is frustrating. If you upgrade your speakers, you’ll want to upgrade your amp(s) and, at some point, your head unit. It all depends on how much you care about the sound quality.

I upgraded my whole stereo system at once. The entire JBL system is gone, including all of the speaker and amp wiring. I lost my steering wheel controls, but I can live with that. My “vintage” head unit isn’t compatible with steering wheel controls.

 

[MikeinNH67]

I went the cheap route and repaired my rear sub maybe a year ago. There's YT videos on speaker repair. Mine tore right at the edge so was easy to glue back down. You can also get new surround rings online. The sub itself is still fine just the pliable part fails and you lose the bass and end up with rattling.

 

[twa318]

You're not gonna find OEM parts easily. Is just the sub blown or are the other speakers going as well?

Just replacing the sub is an easy project and can be done in under an hour. The proper way to access the sub is to remove rear panel around the speaker which requires removing the seatbelt bolt on the rear passenger seat, double decker cargo system and then a few clips. You can also take the shortcut and simply cut the mesh surrounding the sub enclosure to access the sub using this method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjuK3WjJngQ

The MB Quart DS1 is recommended on here often but I ended up going with a Kenwood KFC XW800F.

 

[snowboardwcu]

i just upgraded my entire system however the sub was damaged (reason why i upgraded) and the only thing i had to destroy/dremel was the tiny tweeters. damn man.

but i have everything else available and in good condition. stock JBL NAV unit, stock amp, and the rest of the speakers if you are interested.

 

[T4Rmiller]

Security Check

I went cheap, and for 30 bucks it sounds great

 

[snowboardwcu]

Security Check

I went cheap, and for 30 bucks it sounds great

did you wire these in a 2ohm configuration? interesting solution.