4th gen running speaker wire through doors

97BlackAckCL

Elite Member
Anyone have any write ups or tips for running new speaker wires into the doors on a 4th gen? Any help or pics would be appreciated
 
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there's a bolt to loosen/remove inside the door that releases the rubber accordion connector from the forward end of the door. Then you can use a lubed up coat hanger with circular bent end to pull wire through into door.

I used silicone grease to lube the wire and the coat hanger. I'll try to get some pics and post tomorrow.
 
Pics would be great, I'm no stranger to fishing wires, but the last couple cars I've worked on were extremely tight inside the rubber grommets. Any help you can provide would be appreciated
 
All I did was find which wires ran into the door and cut them about a foot above the floor just before they go towards the door. I have an '04 and decided to put a different stereo in and completely disabled the JBL and took it out. I think it sounds amazing now!
 
yeah, I'm not a fan of the stock wiring and always like to leave it in place in case I ever want to revert back to it when trading in. That is why I want to run my own wires
 
Sorry for delay:

here is the handiest tool for snaking wires through dash, doors, wherever:

Its cheap (free) and you probably have one in your closet.
wire snake.jpg

Here's a close-up of how I bent the tip so it won't snag in either direction.
wire snake tip.jpg

The silicone lube is important when trying to get wires through the rubber sleeves that connect doors to body. Lube up the wire your pulling and the coat hanger.
 

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I was hoping for a pic of the rubber tubing that you said you can unbolt, I know how to fish with wire hangers, thanks anyway
 
I was hoping for a pic of the rubber tubing that you said you can unbolt, I know how to fish with wire hangers, thanks anyway

Its pretty straight forward. Open the door and look where the rubber boot goes into the door. It is held in place by a small bolt on the top and bottom. I think its a 10mm. Can't miss it.
 
the rubber hose I am referring to is the black accordion hose that is connected to both the vehicle and the leading face of the door.

On my vehicle, the bolt is actually inside the door. You need to remove the speaker and work from that hole. Quite easy. The wire actually ends up coming out between the door panel (the large part you removed to get at the speaker) and the inner skin of the door. There are other wires that pass through that hose that follow the same path. As OHP noted, its a 10mm bolt. A socket with extension and a mini mag lite will serve you well.

What year 4Runner do you have?
 
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buy a bag of extra long zip tie, drill a hole or 2 and use a thin wire to tie the wires to. i perfer using a plastic ziptie to run wires than a coat hanger. plastic wont damage as bad as metal. all u have to do is take the kick panels out and then the rubber boot from the car frame and door frame, then take the time to feed wires through, i have 3 sets of 14 gauge wires and its all i can fit in there, im sure 2 12 is max.
 
Its pretty straight forward. Open the door and look where the rubber boot goes into the door. It is held in place by a small bolt on the top and bottom. I think its a 10mm. Can't miss it.
:thanks:

the rubber hose I am referring to is the black accordion hose that is connected to both the vehicle and the leading face of the door.

On my vehicle, the bolt is actually inside the door. You need to remove the speaker and work from that hole. Quite easy. The wire actually ends up coming out between the door panel (the large part you removed to get at the speaker) and the inner skin of the door. There are other wires that pass through that hose that follow the same path. As OHP noted, its a 10mm bolt. A socket with extension and a mini mag lite will serve you well.

What year 4Runner do you have?
08

buy a bag of extra long zip tie, drill a hole or 2 and use a thin wire to tie the wires to. i perfer using a plastic ziptie to run wires than a coat hanger. plastic wont damage as bad as metal. all u have to do is take the kick panels out and then the rubber boot from the car frame and door frame, then take the time to feed wires through, i have 3 sets of 14 gauge wires and its all i can fit in there, im sure 2 12 is max.

Thanks for the tip, I'm running 1 set of 12 gauge and hopefully mounting the crossovers on the doors
 
do u have alot of power going to the speakers? 18 guage is sufficent on deck power. 16 is better for basic, 14-12 if u have alot of power. if you dont have long runs like amp in the trunk, 16 is fine. you will only hear a big difference if the wires are thin, running over 16ft.
 
Those front door wire routes are a pain...it may have been due the number of wires I was trying to ram through there. I am used to just a rubber boot between the door and jamb (like the rear doors are). I've wired mine for a three way in the front where the passive crossover box will be in the kicks...so I had to pass all three pairs through that front door wire route. Believe it or not, I was able to snake 3 12 gauge pairs through.
 

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