4th gen shifter sloppy/no resistance/won't stay in 4th

[Powder_Hound]

Model: 04 V8 Sport with 5 speed automatic at 138,000 miles.

I've searched around a bit and haven't found much on this topic. I use my gated shifter almost every time I drive (4x4, towing, descending CO mountains, etc...) my T4R where I'm suspecting many do not. This "might" explain why this shifter situation doesn't have much information around the forums.

Guestimates (phone calls) for repair/replacement start at $109 -$140 to diagnose and the shifter is around $550 online. Toyota is quoting $1150 to replace with a shifter cost of around $800 + $350 labor. I'm hoping the helpful folks here can help to confirm I have to drop some $$$'s to fix or if there are any options to save some cash. I'm suspecting replacing the shifter assembly is above my pay grade,

Description of issue:

All gears work when holding shifter in gate for gear
P- shifter flops left to right in P gate - Park stop does engage
R- no problem
N - moves L-R or R-L with no resistance
D - no problem as shifter stays put and gears shift appropriately
4 - shifter springs to right and stops in D
3 - stays in place
2 - stays in place
1 - stays in place
---however, there is no resistance shifting between 1-2-3-4/D-N-R-P (shifter moves to D when trying to use 4th).
---Also, 4LO and 4HI will engage when shifter is in the N gate without difficulty.

Any information or thoughts about this issue will be greatly appreciated.

 

[084RUNNAH]

Curious to know what the solution is.

Did you take it apart yet?

 

[AuSeeker]

Model: 04 V8 Sport with 5 speed automatic at 138,000 miles.

I've searched around a bit and haven't found much on this topic. I use my gated shifter almost every time I drive (4x4, towing, descending CO mountains, etc...) my T4R where I'm suspecting many do not. This "might" explain why this shifter situation doesn't have much information around the forums.

Guestimates (phone calls) for repair/replacement start at $109 -$140 to diagnose and the shifter is around $550 online. Toyota is quoting $1150 to replace with a shifter cost of around $800 + $350 labor. I'm hoping the helpful folks here can help to confirm I have to drop some $$$'s to fix or if there are any options to save some cash. I'm suspecting replacing the shifter assembly is above my pay grade,

Description of issue:

All gears work when holding shifter in gate for gear
P- shifter flops left to right in P gate - Park stop does engage
R- no problem
N - moves L-R or R-L with no resistance
D - no problem as shifter stays put and gears shift appropriately
4 - shifter springs to right and stops in D
3 - stays in place
2 - stays in place
1 - stays in place
---however, there is no resistance shifting between 1-2-3-4/D-N-R-P (shifter moves to D when trying to use 4th).
---Also, 4LO and 4HI will engage when shifter is in the N gate without difficulty.

Any information or thoughts about this issue will be greatly appreciated.

There's a spring loaded pin in the shifter assembly that follows indents and tracks, that pin can sometimes pop out of it's hole due to the plastic cracking or breaking, it sound like your pin is out of the hole, also some have hard shifting because the pin has worn the indents and tracks, this makes it hard for the pin to move up and down as it should to be able to follow the indents and track, this sometime leads to the plastic around the pin hole to crack or break allowing the pin to come out of the hole.

There's at least one topic if not 2 or more on these issues and what some have been able to do about it without replacing the shifter, some have repaired the hole with apoxy and or by sleeving it with a metal sleeve, some have also used epoxy or similar product to build up the worn indents and track and then use a dremel to somewhat restore it back to it's orginal configuration.

If I get the time I will try and find the topic/s if you can't find them yourself, the next few days are very busy for me so try and find the topic/s if you can or maybe someone else may find them and post a link/s.

Another option IMHO is to try and find a shifter in good condition at a savage yard.

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

Here are a few pics
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/250455-pearls-mod-build-lt-rear-tc-dual-front-soon.html(post #9)
of what the guide pin looks like on the underside of your guide plate. I pulled mine apart because of the exact opposite problem of being too stiff in and out of certain gears. So I tried a little maintenance and it seemed to help. The problem your describing sounds as if your pin housing might be cracked, which is what I was trying to hopefully avoid.
Here is a simple and ingenious solution using a washer and a rubber band by [MENTION=1102]TeryT[/MENTION] to keep his in 4th gear for towing.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/60082-2003-toyota-4runner-floppy-shifter-2.html

 

[grave]

Glad this thread was made because I shift through 3-4-D every day and I've always wondered what effect(s) it could have on the shifter and/or transmission.

 

[Powder_Hound]

Curious to know what the solution is.

Did you take it apart yet?

Not yet, but new shifter lock assembly ordered. Based on more digging, input here, and diving into mine I concluded the pin and/or the plastic guide are FUBAR. I’ll update further after replacement and complete disassembly of old shifter lock assembly.

 

[Powder_Hound]

Here are a few pics
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/250455-pearls-mod-build-lt-rear-tc-dual-front-soon.html(post #9)
of what the guide pin looks like on the underside of your guide plate. I pulled mine apart because of the exact opposite problem of being too stiff in and out of certain gears. So I tried a little maintenance and it seemed to help. The problem your describing sounds as if your pin housing might be cracked, which is what I was trying to hopefully avoid.
Here is a simple and ingenious solution using a washer and a rubber band by [MENTION=1102]TeryT[/MENTION] to keep his in 4th gear for towing.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/60082-2003-toyota-4runner-floppy-shifter-2.html

Thanks for the info and links. I found the rubber band mod from TeryT and looks pretty effective. The link to “Pearl” was very helpful on how to disassemble the shifter lock assembly. Sadly, without opening mine up yet I’m 99% sure my shifter lock assembly is trashed and I have ordered a replacement for $570. The history of my shifter has had all the symptoms (tough going 3-2 and a little stiff between 4-D) of all I have read and it got sloppy after an aggressive slap to 4.

I’m going to tackle the replacement with a friend in the next couple weeks or so.

 

[AuSeeker]

Not yet, but new shifter lock assembly ordered. Based on more digging, input here, and diving into mine I concluded the pin and/or the plastic guide are FUBAR. I’ll update further after replacement and complete disassembly of old shifter lock assembly.

Can you post the part number?

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

Thanks for the info and links. I found the rubber band mod from TeryT and looks pretty effective. The link to “Pearl” was very helpful on how to disassemble the shifter lock assembly. Sadly, without opening mine up yet I’m 99% sure my shifter lock assembly is trashed and I have ordered a replacement for $570. The history of my shifter has had all the symptoms (tough going 3-2 and a little stiff between 4-D) of all I have read and it got sloppy after an aggressive slap to 4.

I’m going to tackle the replacement with a friend in the next couple weeks or so.

Ouch, sorry about the coin. Still don't understand that exorbitant price....shipping from Japan I guess? I would like to try a 5th gen retro to see if that would work one day. It's a lot more user friendly. At that price an aftermarket shifter would almost be an option for me lol. Hope it goes smooth for you!!

 

[Powder_Hound]

Can you post the part number?

This is what I ordered.
Unit Assembly, Shift Lock Controll
3356035030
$560.94

 

[AuSeeker]

Thanks for the part number, it will be valuable for anyone needing to replace their shifter, I can see why the price is so high after finding a image of the part, it is pretty much the entire shifter assembly.

 

[Powder_Hound]

Yep....it was nearly $800 if I purchased from dealer doing install + $300 for install.

 

[A/V1]

Yep....it was nearly $800 if I purchased from dealer doing install + $300 for install.

:doh:

And here I am looking for the cheapest one on Ebay ($75 shipped)! NO WAY I'd spend that much ($500 or $800) on the shifter for this issue! I'd 3D print one before paying that much LOL! J/K

Seriously, holy crap, that's a lot. I just happened to run my gears through, and it stuck going back into 4th - then POP! It was all loose as a goose! I just haven't had time to take it apart yet.

 

[Terminator03]

:doh:

And here I am looking for the cheapest one on Ebay ($75 shipped)! NO WAY I'd spend that much ($500 or $800) on the shifter for this issue! I'd 3D print one before paying that much LOL! J/K

Seriously, holy crap, that's a lot. I just happened to run my gears through, and it stuck going back into 4th - then POP! It was all loose as a goose! I just haven't had time to take it apart yet.

Totally agree! I’d be looking at used ones on eBay too, or calling local salvage yards. If I had to spend that much, I’d opt for a Hurst, or B+M replacement (if they make one that will work).

With that being said, I’m a bit confused with the whole manual shifting thing, at least on a daily basis. Autos are not meant to do that, and the ones that are, come equipped with paddle shifters for that purpose. This is a truck, not sports car. Not flaming anyone, but I am truly curious “why” you would do that. Is it for faster acceleration, or something?

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

Totally agree! I’d be looking at used ones on eBay too, or calling local salvage yards. If I had to spend that much, I’d opt for a Hurst, or B+M replacement (if they make one that will work).

With that being said, I’m a bit confused with the whole manual shifting thing, at least on a daily basis. Autos are not meant to do that, and the ones that are, come equipped with paddle shifters for that purpose. This is a truck, not sports car. Not flaming anyone, but I am truly curious “why” you would do that. Is it for faster acceleration, or something?

I use the manual mode for quite a few different scenarios. On a twisty mountain road I can control the tranny from searching for gears as the different elevations and turns keep it guessing on my 5th gen. On the trails in heavy sand or slick mud, I can keep it from shifting into too high of gear and thus bogging down. People also use the manual mode 4th gear for towing heavy loads, as 5th gear with the torque converter engaged is not recommended. On an steep interstate mountain incline with a heavy load, you may even want to drop your speed and down shift into 3rd. This will help keep your transmission temps down. Now the last scenario is purely for fun when I'm blasting down a power line road at 40 or 50 mph, I keep it in between 1st and 3rd. Although this one is not a huge priority for most owners.

 

[Terminator03]

I use the manual mode for quite a few different scenarios. On a twisty mountain road I can control the tranny from searching for gears as the different elevations and turns keep it guessing on my 5th gen. On the trails in heavy sand or slick mud, I can keep it from shifting into too high of gear and thus bogging down. People also use the manual mode 4th gear for towing heavy loads, as 5th gear with the torque converter engaged is not recommended. On an steep interstate mountain incline with a heavy load, you may even want to drop your speed and down shift into 3rd. This will help keep your transmission temps down. Now the last scenario is purely for fun when I'm blasting down a power line road at 40 or 50 mph, I keep it in between 1st and 3rd. Although this one is not a huge priority for most owners.

Thanks, that makes sense, in those situations you mentioned. I’ve used 4th for towing for the reason you mentioned, but since I don’t really off-road it, I haven’t had the need to manually shift it in the other situations obviously. I was mainly curious about someone mentioning shifting it manually every day, as if driving a manual transmission. These shifters with plastic detent grooves clearly weren’t designed to be run through the gears on a daily basis. In the cases you described, you are just manually dropping gears, or holding in particular gears, so that is less wear and tear inmo.

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

Except for my old ass knees and bad shoulders having to constantly shift in traffic, I would love to see a 6 speed FJ trans retro fit in a 4th gen V8, but the ECU issues would probably suck. My limited abilities would be way under the bus on that swap. Might not even be possible without a custom bell housing fabricated.

 

[Powder_Hound]

Totally agree! I’d be looking at used ones on eBay too, or calling local salvage yards. If I had to spend that much, I’d opt for a Hurst, or B+M replacement (if they make one that will work).

With that being said, I’m a bit confused with the whole manual shifting thing, at least on a daily basis. Autos are not meant to do that, and the ones that are, come equipped with paddle shifters for that purpose. This is a truck, not sports car. Not flaming anyone, but I am truly curious “why” you would do that. Is it for faster acceleration, or something?

I’m the original owner of my T4R and I’m hoping to get another 150,000 miles out of her. The shifter is complete and I’m not looking just replace the broken bits. It’s expensive, but I’m a fan of fixing with new to insure it’s done right.

As for the shifting....If you could by a T4R with a manual transmission I would have done so. Simply put, I use the shifter to put the T4R in the gear she needs. It’s not my daily driver so when I am in the mountains, I use the gears to keep speed in check when descending, I use 4th when towing, I will use 4th when climbing hills too so the tranny isn’t searching for gears, I use the shifter when off-roading to match the torque and RPM’s of the terrain/obstacles being encountered. Not to mention, you have a ton more control of your vehicle (any vehicle) when matching the gears for the conditions warranted. I learned on a manual and still miss being able to put in the gear I want; hence the need to use the gated automatic shifter.

 

[A/V1]

Totally agree! I’d be looking at used ones on eBay too, or calling local salvage yards. If I had to spend that much, I’d opt for a Hurst, or B+M replacement (if they make one that will work).

With that being said, I’m a bit confused with the whole manual shifting thing, at least on a daily basis. Autos are not meant to do that, and the ones that are, come equipped with paddle shifters for that purpose. This is a truck, not sports car. Not flaming anyone, but I am truly curious “why” you would do that. Is it for faster acceleration, or something?

Frankly, I actually wasn't even using it while driving when it happened. I was sitting in my driveway LOL! I just like to occasionally run it through to ensure everything is working and stays lubed (like using 4wd every month).

I don't generally "shift while driving" in my 4runner. I do have paddle shifters in my other car though... :dance:

 

[I am Flea]

Thanks for the part number, it will be valuable for anyone needing to replace their shifter, I can see why the price is so high after finding a image of the part, it is pretty much the entire shifter assembly.

I 2nd the big THANKS for the part number. I started having difficulty shifting into 3 and 2, extra special difficulty increasing with 2. A few months of dealing with that, then P became “tighter” to get out of. Currently, I’ve spent the past month driving around with the shifter MOVING FREELY AND LOOSELY BETWEEN ALL GEARS!! It’s very unsettling. I have to put it into gear, then bungee-cord it in place to keep the shifter from flopping around. I live on a 40% grade too — nerve-racking every time I park and pull out. From the posts I’ve read on this problem, it sounds like mine is the only one that freely flops around the whole shifting spectrum. 2006 4x4 V8 Limited.

Supplemental note: since 2008/2009, the radio turns on and off by itself every time it’s hot outside, (sometimes even in comfortable weather now, too), and I haven’t been able to keep any cds in the 5-disk JBL for 10 years because, (again, typically during extremely warm weather), the disks self-eject at a rapid speed and come flying out of the slot one after another, grazing past my face as I’m driving! I often joke that my truck is POSSESSED. This is the 2nd set of climate & audio dash components; entire unit was replaced with a new unit in 2010 or ‘11 after initial problems with stereo turning itself on & off and switching itself between modes (tuner/cd/aux). I am dumbfounded how one person could end up with TWO faulty consoles!!


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