4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ

guys I was placing an order for 5100 series front and rears, and find the rears out of stock at several of the major retailers [autoanything, tire rack, 4wheelparts]. Should I select an alternative rear part to match up to the fronts? or just wait it out? or is there stock some place you may know of?

Shoot me a text 717-319-2100 with the part #
 
Got it, Working on it.

Also, I'm keeping this sale on for a bit longer.

4th gen lift & leveling kits at Burtman Industries

4run_jflares_03_up.jpg


4th gen lift & leveling kits at Burtman Industries
 
Ordered up a 2/1 kit from Burtman! Hoping to set my SR5 up with some 275/70/17 BFG's along with the lift. Dad needs Christmas gifts too! LOL
 
Did anybody have to trim any of the plastic near the body mount when doing a body mount chop. I just did the body mount chop, but at full turn I am still getting a little rubbing when backing up.
 
Did anybody have to trim any of the plastic near the body mount when doing a body mount chop. I just did the body mount chop, but at full turn I am still getting a little rubbing when backing up.

I also have rubbing at the rear of the wheel well even after removing the mudflap fully. It rubs on the fender flare. I think this is due to the higher negative offset wheels and tires that run large for this sizing for me. I was able to tweak alignment to get the wheel slightly more forward in the wheel well and doesn't rub most of the time.
 
I also have rubbing at the rear of the wheel well even after removing the mudflap fully. It rubs on the fender flare. I think this is due to the higher negative offset wheels and tires that run large for this sizing for me. I was able to tweak alignment to get the wheel slightly more forward in the wheel well and doesn't rub most of the time.

yes, I also have removed my mudflaps. It seems to rub on the flare and also a bit on the wheel well plastic. I will have them move the wheels forward as much as possible on my next alignment. Not sure any trimming can be done.
 
yes, I also have removed my mudflaps. It seems to rub on the flare and also a bit on the wheel well plastic. I will have them move the wheels forward as much as possible on my next alignment. Not sure any trimming can be done.
Ya that's a common spot depending on wheel offset. Mine is cut quite a bit to fit the 35's.

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.
 
Did anybody have to trim any of the plastic near the body mount when doing a body mount chop. I just did the body mount chop, but at full turn I am still getting a little rubbing when backing up.

I had to trim there even though I don't rub on the body mount. Only when flexing though. After trimming a bit I've rubbed on it maybe twice. A rock got caught between it though and popped a couple clips on my fender and cracked the fender material across the bolt just above.
 
Ya that's a common spot depending on wheel offset. Mine is cut quite a bit to fit the 35's.

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.
do you mean the body mount or the plastic is cut..

I had to trim there even though I don't rub on the body mount. Only when flexing though. After trimming a bit I've rubbed on it maybe twice. A rock got caught between it though and popped a couple clips on my fender and cracked the fender material across the bolt just above.

any pics of how you trimmed
 
do you mean the body mount or the plastic is cut..



any pics of how you trimmed
Both. Depending on wheel offset, tire size and lift amount. The plastic is just too close.
I had to ditch my inner Liners, flatten the pinch weld, hammer it back about another inch, trim flare and bumper. Lol

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.
 
Both. Depending on wheel offset, tire size and lift amount. The plastic is just too close.
I had to ditch my inner Liners, flatten the pinch weld, hammer it back about another inch, trim flare and bumper. Lol

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.

OH wow!!
 
hi all first post here on the forum. ive been reading through this thread and found some good info but still having a hard time making a decision on the route i want to go. ive got a 2006 sport V8 with about 115K on it. the XREAS is pretty much shot and looking to make an upgrade with roughly 3" lift and replace shocks and coils. I live in Colorado and do a fair amount of off roading in the summer but nothing real technical. its my main driver to and from work so good amount of pavement time as well. I will be doing the work with myself and brother in law who is a mechanic and has a lift so not too worried about getting it done right. i will be replacing tires once this is done but will keep stock rims.

Is there a consensus on best route or most common route? I'm looking to order parts in the next week or so.
 
hi all first post here on the forum. ive been reading through this thread and found some good info but still having a hard time making a decision on the route i want to go. ive got a 2006 sport V8 with about 115K on it. the XREAS is pretty much shot and looking to make an upgrade with roughly 3" lift and replace shocks and coils. I live in Colorado and do a fair amount of off roading in the summer but nothing real technical. its my main driver to and from work so good amount of pavement time as well. I will be doing the work with myself and brother in law who is a mechanic and has a lift so not too worried about getting it done right. i will be replacing tires once this is done but will keep stock rims.

Is there a consensus on best route or most common route? I'm looking to order parts in the next week or so.
Welcome!
As any of us that have been doing this for awhile, SAVE UP! If at all possible get a better system to start. Boss, icon, king, fox, radflo, anything that is rebuild able and able to be adjusted and provide better performance. I can tell you 100% you'll destroy Bilsteins in short order out there. If money is an issue, get coilovers with matching shocks for back and a rear spacer or lift spring first, then upgrade things like uca's and whatnot if wanted later. You'll save a ton in the end. Metal tech long travel rear will really give you a solid boost too. On and off road!

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.
 
Welcome!
As any of us that have been doing this for awhile, SAVE UP! If at all possible get a better system to start. Boss, icon, king, fox, radflo, anything that is rebuild able and able to be adjusted and provide better performance. I can tell you 100% you'll destroy Bilsteins in short order out there. If money is an issue, get coilovers with matching shocks for back and a rear spacer or lift spring first, then upgrade things like uca's and whatnot if wanted later. You'll save a ton in the end. Metal tech long travel rear will really give you a solid boost too. On and off road!

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.

if i go say the Boss route is that all i will need? do you think it best to replace UCA's while youre already in there?
 
if i go say the Boss route is that all i will need? do you think it best to replace UCA's while youre already in there?
Well uca's are needed if going above 3". If you stay below that you can use the stockers until you can upgrade. It is best to replace, if possible, but not necessary if not lifting real far.

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.
 
Help with lift

I have a 2005 4runner Sport edition
Has Xrea. I want to keep this for now.

Look at thread...I am limited to Spacer Lift only. I narrow it down to Daystar or Cornfed... 2.5/1.5 or 2/1 (with Cornfed)

With either of these set up, would I need a brake Line extension? UCA replacement to get the castor back to stock? Looking to get a min 3.0 of caster
Basically, I need almost factory spec. Would factory spec be possible with these kit without anything else?


Novice off-roader.. I'm not crossing lakes or going steep incline. Just enough clearance to go snowboarder and photography in the Las Vegas desert.

Thanks all
 
I have a 2005 4runner Sport edition
Has Xrea. I want to keep this for now.

Look at thread...I am limited to Spacer Lift only. I narrow it down to Daystar or Cornfed... 2.5/1.5 or 2/1 (with Cornfed)

With either of these set up, would I need a brake Line extension? UCA replacement to get the castor back to stock? Looking to get a min 3.0 of caster
Basically, I need almost factory spec. Would factory spec be possible with these kit without anything else?


Novice off-roader.. I'm not crossing lakes or going steep incline. Just enough clearance to go snowboarder and photography in the Las Vegas desert.

Thanks all

I have them on sale right now actually.

Burtman Industries 4th gen lifts and leveling kits

4run_cornf_side_jaos.jpg


I can have it made in ANY SIZE you want, you pick. Now, about factory spec, the 2/1 is within tolerance, anything higher may requite replacement of upper control arms, again for factory spec like you are requesting. Brake lines will be uneffected. The most popular kit I've sold is the 3/2, probably 85% of the kits sold are this, and most shops can get close. I've been selling these kits since 2005 and they work great.

The thing on daystar is, and I've sold quite a few... I had a customer that did a 2.5 kit, and the front went from 2.5 down to 2.0 in a year and half. This WILL NOT not happen with the Cornfed kit, it's guaranteed not to due to the material being used and they are basically indestructible and will never compress over time.

Burtman Industries 4th gen lifts and leveling kits
 

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