HHIRunner
New member
I do have the Rear Air Suspension, and I have been considering replacing it, my intended use is for some offroad, mudding more often than trails, but mostly a daily driver.
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4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ
- Thread starter ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
- Start date
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
Out of the setups I've had, the 5100's with FJ coils has been the best for on road. The 5100's with OME coils handled better (flatter in turns, less nose dive when braking) but didn't ride quite as smooth. Either way, you're gaining travel which is going to give you the most benefit off road.
You can lift without removing the RAS. The air bags can be adjusted to provide lift in the rear. This is what I did on mine for quite some time. If you haven't seen it, here's my thread on swapping out the RAS for coils.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/120196-how-convert-ras-coils.html
HHIRunner
New member
So for a cheaper option, and being that I'm not a "hardcore" offroader, you would suggest the 5100 all around and FJ coils up front and the RAS height change? And the RAS would be fine for getting somewhat submerged in mud every so often?
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
After trying various setups, that's the way I'd personally go (I've actually considered going back to that setup). The RAS is more iffy. Not only is it the mud, but I'd say the greatest risk would be busting a bag. Don't recall actually seeing that, but in mud with sticks, roots, etc it's definitely possible. If you don't use the system, I'd consider swapping it out. You'll get better performance and a better ride with 5100's/FJ coils in the rear. IMO the rear was always overly stiff with the air bags.
HHIRunner
New member
And then I would just continue using the stock coils with 5100s in the front? With the FJ Coils in the rear? about how much lift would that give?
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
You'd use FJ coils on the front and rear (if you decide to remove the RAS, you could try with it first).
The FJ coils will give approx .5" front and .25" rear. The rest depends on what spacer you use for the rear and what setting you use on the front.
rfuree11
New member
I just got the 265/70-17 Duratracs and have some slight rubbing on the right frame rail at full right lock.
1.) Is this somewhat normal? I was searching and all the results were for 3rd gens, but I didn't see anything for 4th gens.
2.) Like I said earlier, I was planning on going with an OME setup in the spring and wasn't planning on running spacers. Would spacers before the lift help the rubbing or make it worse? Or will the lift fix it? I'll get pics tomorrow when it's light out.
1.) Is this somewhat normal? I was searching and all the results were for 3rd gens, but I didn't see anything for 4th gens.
2.) Like I said earlier, I was planning on going with an OME setup in the spring and wasn't planning on running spacers. Would spacers before the lift help the rubbing or make it worse? Or will the lift fix it? I'll get pics tomorrow when it's light out.
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ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
I can't think of anyone who's had rubbing on the frame rail. Wheel spacers should fix this, but with them you'll have more rubbing on plastic. The rubbing shouldn't be anything major and can easily be taken care of. As you mentioned, post some pics tomorrow and post them here.
rfuree11
New member
So i just went out and looked again. I'm actually rubbing on the plastic shield behind the strut, but my tire is EXTREMELY close to the rail when flexing and may actually be making contact, but I'm not 100% sure. I know the plastic shield is normal, still unsure about the rail.
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
The body mount is somewhat normal, but 265's shouldn't cause any issues. I've seen folks rubbing the control arm as well. I just can't recall seeing anyone rubbing the frame rail (doesn't mean it hasn't happened, just not something I recall seeing).
lehiguy
New member
More tidbits of lift info, useful or not...
Ok, a couple of things come up when doing a Daystar (or similar) lift. Rear shocks, rear sway bar links and brake lines. Here's what worked for me.
On the shocks, I wanted something that would give the extra two inches of drop, but not bottom out prematurely. Skyjacker N8024 Nitro shocks (or H8024 if you want the Hydros) have the same collapsed length as the stock shock (I compared them side by side) and have an extended length of about 2.25" longer than stock. I have used Nitros for years on my built FJ60 and I like them a lot. The coils and spacers are just a bit loose at full drop. The application for that shock is an FJ80, but do not assume that any shock for an FJ80 will work, always go by the dimentions.
On the rear sway bar links, they were deffinitely getting geeked beyond their reach at full drop, but not that much. Since they have more than abundant length at the top, I used a flange nut as a spacer below the bushings and was still able to get the top bushing, washer and nut on with more than enough thread to spare.
The third (and most important) issue are the brake lines. They were pretty tight at full drop with the 2" spacer installed. Where the soft line meets the hard line on the frame, there is a bracket that points them straight down, not directly at the axle. I used a wrench to bend that bracket so that the union of the lines pointed at the axle. This gives just enough to make it work, best of all it's free!
Ok, a couple of things come up when doing a Daystar (or similar) lift. Rear shocks, rear sway bar links and brake lines. Here's what worked for me.
On the shocks, I wanted something that would give the extra two inches of drop, but not bottom out prematurely. Skyjacker N8024 Nitro shocks (or H8024 if you want the Hydros) have the same collapsed length as the stock shock (I compared them side by side) and have an extended length of about 2.25" longer than stock. I have used Nitros for years on my built FJ60 and I like them a lot. The coils and spacers are just a bit loose at full drop. The application for that shock is an FJ80, but do not assume that any shock for an FJ80 will work, always go by the dimentions.
On the rear sway bar links, they were deffinitely getting geeked beyond their reach at full drop, but not that much. Since they have more than abundant length at the top, I used a flange nut as a spacer below the bushings and was still able to get the top bushing, washer and nut on with more than enough thread to spare.
The third (and most important) issue are the brake lines. They were pretty tight at full drop with the 2" spacer installed. Where the soft line meets the hard line on the frame, there is a bracket that points them straight down, not directly at the axle. I used a wrench to bend that bracket so that the union of the lines pointed at the axle. This gives just enough to make it work, best of all it's free!
First off, thanks everyone for all of the input previously in this thread. Since joining this forum I have been going overboard with mods. I know that a lot of ver similar questions have been asked but I wanted to ask a couple more specific to what I'm wanting to do. I have a 2006 sport v8 with the xreas. I mainly drive on road but may occasionally get on trails and I wanna be able to mow over some zombies when they decide to start their apocalypse lol. So I'm wanting to do a little lift mainly for looks and minimaly for performance. I was gonna do spacers but thinking that since I have 98k miles, I should tear out the xreas and put in bilstein 5100 all around (topped out up front) and a 1.5 inch spacer on the back. With this and the mileage, can I leave the stock coils because I would assume they don't wear out like the shocks would? Also, if I tackle it myself I know that I am technically supposed to have all wheels in the air before I start unhooking the xreas but does it matter if I just do the front first since I'm taking it all off anyways? And I hear to unhook the lines a foot or so before the shock, but after I unhook it and pull out that shock do I need to start jus ripping the lines out all around or leave it or what? I am not a do it yourself guy until I got this 4runner the end of December... If its too big of a task ill just let a shop do it... And I believe from everyone else's input I won't need a diff drop or anything else... I already have 1.5" wheel spacers on and rigged my fenders up already so my wrangler's won't rub. Thanks for the help.
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
There's no clear answer to whether or not to keep XREAS. Are you positive the shocks are not leaking at all? If they aren't, then you can throw on a spacer lift and it'll serve you well until XREAS fails. This could be a few months or a few years, no way to know for sure so it's a risk.
You can swap to 5100's as you mentioned, it will be fine to re-use the stock coils. If you could find a set of used/low mileage FJ coils for a reasonable price (maybe $100 a set), that would be a nice addition as well, but not required. If you are ditching the XREAS, shouldn't matter that all 4 tires aren't in the air, although you may loose a little fluid and make a mess.
If you have room to work and basic tools (wrenches, sockets, etc) it's a pretty easy job. If you go with the 5100's, you'll need a spring compressor. These can be rented at no charge through most auto parts stores. An air compressor/impact would really help with these, doing them by hand would be tough. You could always take the old and new shocks to a shop and have them switch the coils over for you. It shouldn't take long and will save a lot of money over having the shop do the complete install. There are several write-ups linked in the first post of this thread, make sure you have a good understanding of those and it's not a hard job. One suggestion would be to spray WD-40 or something similar on all bolts/nuts that will need to be removed the day prior.
The decision is up to you. A spacer lift is easier to install, but the downside is you may end up having to re-do it soon if the shocks fail.
colo4runner
New member
I have had my OME lift on for a few months now, with spidertrax 1.5" spacers on my 2003 4runner. For the rear, I have the OME sport shocks, and toytec flex coils. The rear seems somewhat stiffer than the front, but that is not my main concern.
the lift turned out great, however, there is a popping in the rear suspension. Without knowing all the components in the rear, when I crawl under then and move things around, the track bar ? (the bar that runs parallel to and below the rear axle), squeaks and pops a little when I rock the truck side to side, etc or move the bar. Although it could certainly be something else as well?? Worn bushings maybe??
When I brake, I thought it might be the rear wheel spacers, so took those off, and did not fix the popping when going over bumps and/or braking to a stop.
Any thoughts on what would be causing the "popping" feel/sound in the rear? Also had the rear brakes checked, they are fine.
Also, any thoughts on the ICON rear VS series shocks in the rear to soften things up a bit in the rear with the existing toytec flex coils? thanks in advance...
the lift turned out great, however, there is a popping in the rear suspension. Without knowing all the components in the rear, when I crawl under then and move things around, the track bar ? (the bar that runs parallel to and below the rear axle), squeaks and pops a little when I rock the truck side to side, etc or move the bar. Although it could certainly be something else as well?? Worn bushings maybe??
When I brake, I thought it might be the rear wheel spacers, so took those off, and did not fix the popping when going over bumps and/or braking to a stop.
Any thoughts on what would be causing the "popping" feel/sound in the rear? Also had the rear brakes checked, they are fine.
Also, any thoughts on the ICON rear VS series shocks in the rear to soften things up a bit in the rear with the existing toytec flex coils? thanks in advance...
martini
New member
Sounds like it may be the sway bar bushings which is what you were moving around. Here's a video showing the issue, the sway bar, and the bushing fix Finding and Repairing Rear End Noise Honda Element/CRV -EricTheCarGuy - YouTube. See if this is like yours.
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
I think martini's got it, but if it's not the swaybar then it'll be the panhard bar. Best best is to double check to make sure everything is torqued down properly.
I don't know the valve rates on the Icon's. I know the OME's are on the stiff side, so I'd assume they'd be better just no idea how much.
colo4runner
New member
martini and ark - thanks for the info and links - I think that is definitely it, or the track bar bushings.
This link was also helpful for the sway bar bushings, etc, and I ordered front and rear bushings from summit racking as noted on this thread.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/34115-swaybar-bushing-upgrade.html
However, for the track arm bushings, anything special you might know about replacing these bushings on the track (panhard). I assume I don't need to jack the rear up - just keep it level, unscrew the two bolts on each end, torque to specs?
Energy Suspension Track Arm Bushing Sets 8-7105G - SummitRacing.com
thanks again for the info.
This link was also helpful for the sway bar bushings, etc, and I ordered front and rear bushings from summit racking as noted on this thread.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/34115-swaybar-bushing-upgrade.html
However, for the track arm bushings, anything special you might know about replacing these bushings on the track (panhard). I assume I don't need to jack the rear up - just keep it level, unscrew the two bolts on each end, torque to specs?
Energy Suspension Track Arm Bushing Sets 8-7105G - SummitRacing.com
thanks again for the info.
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