4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ

So what about the Spidertrax? When would I need those? I plan on keeping stock tires for a while since they're in good condition but would like to upgrade if a good deal comes around. Do I only need the Spidertrax for the larger tires?
 
So what about the Spidertrax? When would I need those? I plan on keeping stock tires for a while since they're in good condition but would like to upgrade if a good deal comes around. Do I only need the Spidertrax for the larger tires?

You'll only need those if you are going to a 285 or larger tire. If you stick with stock, 265/70/17, or 275/70/17 (most popular sizes) you won't need them.
 
I have the Camburg 2.5 coilovers, new rear shocks and i plan to install this weekend. I DO NOT have the UCAs just yet but im itching to install this set up. The look im trying to achieve is a little higher in the front. The rear is and will remain for now the daystar 1.5. Will I "need" UCAs to get it pretty square or can it wait until i can get them?
 
I have the Camburg 2.5 coilovers, new rear shocks and i plan to install this weekend. I DO NOT have the UCAs just yet but im itching to install this set up. The look im trying to achieve is a little higher in the front. The rear is and will remain for now the daystar 1.5. Will I "need" UCAs to get it pretty square or can it wait until i can get them?

You don't need UCA's. I am using the tok ones with my 3" lift. No problems. New UCA's will help you get better caster.
 
Would one of you guys that are at 3 inches give me a front hub to fender measurement?

Wife threw out my paper with my pre-bumper measurements on it.

Thanks in advance.
 
I have the Camburg 2.5 coilovers, new rear shocks and i plan to install this weekend. I DO NOT have the UCAs just yet but im itching to install this set up. The look im trying to achieve is a little higher in the front. The rear is and will remain for now the daystar 1.5. Will I "need" UCAs to get it pretty square or can it wait until i can get them?
Please post pics, i am thinking on the camburg coilovers. I have their ucas and they are awesome.
 
So I finally at least started my journey to a lift by pulling the trigger on some superflex 2" rear coils from crashman... Planning on getting billsteins since I have XREAS, but before I do... Does anyone know if its possible to do ome on the front shocks and keep XREAS?
 
So I finally at least started my journey to a lift by pulling the trigger on some superflex 2" rear coils from crashman... Planning on getting billsteins since I have XREAS, but before I do... Does anyone know if its possible to do ome on the front shocks and keep XREAS?

No, pretty sure XREAS is all or nothing.
 
So I finally at least started my journey to a lift by pulling the trigger on some superflex 2" rear coils from crashman... Planning on getting billsteins since I have XREAS, but before I do... Does anyone know if its possible to do ome on the front shocks and keep XREAS?

You could technically install ome front coils and the superflex rear coils and keep the xreas shocks, but i wouldn't advise that. If you replace the shocks, it's all or nothing as previously mentioned.
 
That's what I figured, but I had thought I would eventually do OME and didn't know... Looks like I'll be hitting ajusa up tomorrow... Birthday money lol
 
Is there an explanation somewhere for adjusting the front inner fenders so that they don't rub? I did some searching and the best I could find was someone saying that they removed the screws, pushed the liners back and then re-installed the screws. That doesn't seem possible to me.
 
1) Haha, can't help there!

2) The install is very easy for the new style Daystar spacers. The only issue is as you mentioned, rust. That could complicate things. I'd advise you to read the install guides, and start soaking all the bolts you'll need to touch with wd-40 or similar. I'd probably start a week before, then re-coat each day. This won't guarantee a painless install, but will definitely help out.

3) Make sure you get the new style Daystar kit and there's no spring compressor needed. If you're swapping coils or using a kit that requires disassembling the strut, there's also a method of doing the install without a spring compressor. Here's a write-up on it.

4) With a mild lift (up to 3"), I personally do not believe there will be any noticeable increase in wear. Yes, there will be "more" wear, but not enough to be a concern. Many people have logged thousands of miles with no issues. I currently have about 40k miles on my 4runner since it's been lifted, which has over 160k miles currently. The only issue that I've seen is the CV boots leaking. This is very common (even some on none lifted 4runners). Replace the bands with hose clamps, and it will not leak again. Very easy fix if it becomes an issue.

5) All good options for you. I don't think you'll notice a big difference in handling with the Daystar. There shouldn't be more lean since you're not changing spring rate with the Daystar kit. A great option for you would be a full FJ suspension from a Trail Teams or TRD FJ. These will be Bilstein shocks and you benefit in the fact that it'll be a full assembly, nothing to add (just a spacer). If you're not happy with the ride, you can easily swap the stock suspension back on and sell the FJ stuff (should have no issues here due to the popularity of the FJ swap). The FJ setup or 5100/FJ setup rides much, much smoother than the stock setup. Bumps are felt less. Imperfections in the road that were noticeable before are no longer felt. Since you do not have XREAS, nose dive and cornering should be improved as well.

6) I've not used the aftermarket rear air bags, so I can't say this for certain. To my knowledge, the bump stop is simply trimmed for clearance and has no affect on the functionality of the air bags. Unless you go with lift coils such as OME or Toytec Superflex, everything should be fine. Even with FJ coils, you shouldn't have any trouble. Hopefully someone with air bags can confirm this for you.

I have bought the 5100s and toytec superflex rear coils and will reuse my current front coils... Reading the write up of how to install without using a spring compressor leads me to believe I can just put the springs over the new shocks and tighten them up and the should just be forced to seat correctly... Is this correct?
 
I have bought the 5100s and toytec superflex rear coils and will reuse my current front coils... Reading the write up of how to install without using a spring compressor leads me to believe I can just put the springs over the new shocks and tighten them up and the should just be forced to seat correctly... Is this correct?

I've never used that method, but that's seems correct. Just notice the direction of the coil and try to have it in the same location when you bolt things back up.
 
has anyone remeasured their lift a couple years after install? i have the daystar level kit, and i swear it looks like it has settled quite a bit. do the polymer blocks compress over time? i haven't measure it yet, but i'm sitting here at work looking at it out the window...
 
has anyone remeasured their lift a couple years after install? i have the daystar level kit, and i swear it looks like it has settled quite a bit. do the polymer blocks compress over time? i haven't measure it yet, but i'm sitting here at work looking at it out the window...

I've heard they settle/compress over time, never saw it personally though (I've not ran poly spacers).
 
Ark - you have proven to be one of the most knowledgeable members on here... I'm praying you have the answer. I've searched endlessly looking for my answer, but it has yet to be confirmed. What are your thoughts on the below? (I actually posted what you see below on the Toyota120 website.) Sorry to any T4R members who keep seeing my posts popping up on the subject... I think this is the 4th thread I've commented on with these questions.

I’m looking at a set of wheels that are 17x9” and can either get 0, or +18 for the offset and want to up-size to 265-70-17’s. Math on that should be 5 and 5.71” backspace respectively, according to my calcs. Right now I have stock SR5 17x7.5 +30 (5.43 backspace) wheels, a 2/1 lift, and stock 265-65-17 tires.

I know I might potentially need to trim the front fender piece, and/or something with the mud-flaps… But the kicker for me is that I live in Pennsylvania, and for inspection, and POLICE sake, no part of the tires can stick out even a mm past the wheel well..

The questions are this: Will the (0) offset tires cause the tires to protrude past the wheel well? Will the +18 offset hit any of the inner suspension components? I found a couple threads over at T4R.org that might help with some background/etc: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-ge...t-4th-gen.html and http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-ge...el-offset.html

Anyone else running this setup???

Thanks in advance!!!


I previously started this thread here as well...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/135523-wheel-backspacing-etc-will-these-work.html

I realize a couple of the threads above indicate that I would be ok with 18x9 with +18 offset, but I want more rubber, and the wheels I'm looking at (Level 8 Scorpions) seem like they might be in boarder-line almost ghetto territory if I went with an 18"...

What say you, my good man?? I'm looking to make the order from Discount Tire tomorrow, and hopefully have them by next weekend. I'm half tempted to just order the +18's because I'm confident the 0's will stick out past the wheel well. If they don't work, so-be-it... Doesn't seem like anyone has a definitive answer.

THANKS!
 

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