4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ

Question for those that have gone from higher mileage stock to FJ/5100 swap.

I've got 150k on stock suspension, back shocks are waking a little and I plan on the FJ coil/5100 shock swap. Probably a 2 3 lift. I'll also replace the end links and sway bar bushings. How will my ride quality change, mainly on road. The wife's would be happier if the ride is smoother or not worse.
 
Question for those that have gone from higher mileage stock to FJ/5100 swap.

I've got 150k on stock suspension, back shocks are waking a little and I plan on the FJ coil/5100 shock swap. Probably a 2 3 lift. I'll also replace the end links and sway bar bushings. How will my ride quality change, mainly on road. The wife's would be happier if the ride is smoother or not worse.

Better than stock ride with lift: (for me) 5100's set at max with FJ coils in front and removed the sway bar. 5100's with FJ coils and a 1.5" spacer in rear, add extended sway bar links. Remove all Xreas.
 
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Better than stock suspension

Hello All,
I have read most of the thread about suspension but I haven't find my answers.
I got 2004 T4R sport edition with Xreas and no RAS.
That is my daily driver city/highway (I don't do off-road) I live in east cost.
I need to replace all my strut/shocks for the first time 150K and my concern is in comfort and handling.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Here is my Questions.
1- Do I need to change the springs also?
2- Do I have a better option that toyota parts?
3- Do I need to lift even when I don't do off-road?

I apologize if these questions had been answer but I did a search and I couldnt find it.
Thanks again.
 
Hi All
I've got a 03 SR5 V6 that I'm starting to lift. I have the Biltstein 5100's and the Toy Tec 2" super flex coils for the back. I spent yesterday morning installing the fronts at 1.75. Now I realize that I should have set them on 2.5 so we held off on the rear for now. I'll be able to get back under it next week to finish it up and re do the front.


I know it's still going to have a little rake and I can live with it, but I'm wondering if I should just do a 1 1/2 spacer in the rear instead? I will use the truck off road and for towing and it is my daily driver. I do like the extra weight capacity with the Toy Tec coils.

Back a ways I read about the Biltsteins being preloaded above .85. Is this a problem? Another thing I noticed was that no one has said anything about any drive line vibration or having to get a adjustable track bar. I'm guessing these are pretty much a non issue with these lifts?
 
Would the best ride/handling in the front be with the 5100's set at stock position and a 2" spacer? It sounds like the ride is pretty stiff with the 5100's on the 2.5" setting. I'm using the stock coils up front. Any thoughts?

Thanks Moose
 
I've had a lot of stuff going on lately and haven't spent as much time here. I may be too late on some of these, but I'll try to respond to everyone anyway.

Noob here looking for someone to tell me if I'm on the right track. I've gone cross-eyed from reading through all of the information on this site and since I'm doing this install myself (first time with something like this, mostly brake jobs and oil changes in the past) I want to make sure I'm not missing anything. Here's the info.
My vehicle: 2003 Limited 4x4 V8 with X-reas, 112,000 miles
Planning to add:
- 18x9 Ultra Motorsport Guantlet wheels with -12mm offset and 4.49" backspacing.
- Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 265/65-18 tires (also considering Revo 2's).
- Moog FJ Cruiser coils front & rear
- Bilstein 5100's front and rear, front set to .85

My goal is to level the truck out (no rake, running boards parallel to the ground) while also lifting enough to make room for the larger than stock tires. I understand some trimming/mud flap removal is inevitable.

With the above items and settings does it seem like I should be good to go? I've been debating if I'll need to add a spacer in the rear and up the setting on the front Bilsteins to 1.75 to provide enough clearance. I also see a lot of folks are using wheel spacers (1.25" Spidertrax seem to be the top choice), will those be necessary when using a wheel with a -12mm offset?

Thanks in advance for any help!

I haven't followed the lift heights for the Moog coils (I do know they lift more than OEM FJ's), so I can't really say on which setting. I have heard of issues with the rear coils seating properly, I'd look into that if you haven't already. As far as fitment, you should be good with minor trimming. If I've ran the numbers correctly, those wheels would be equivalent to a 1.65" spacer. I think a 0mm offset is a better fit, but you shouldn't have any major issues with the -12mm offset.


First - this is the most extensive suspension post I've found. Great stuff. I read about 25 pages before the threat of shovel poisoning pushed me to post!

I have a 2009 Limited 4R with the 6 cylinder. I put the cornfed on it originally as a cheap way to lift it for the front bumper and 12k winch up there.

I use the truck as a daily driver - but push the limits of the trucks capability in the Sierra's and Rocky's. I know it will never have the solid axle articulation but because I push it to the point of abuse I want to maximize that part.

Initially, I planed on getting a "mid-travel" kit for the front - to provide more travel there without widening the stance too much.... better for fitting between trees and on narrow trails maybe. Then I thought maybe just putting some SAW coilovers on there would suffice... but either way I want to get enough lift for eventual 255/85R17 and maximize articulation as much as possible in a IFS truck. I run the tallest, skinniest tires I can always... right now a 235/80R17s in a Nitto - but want to go to a 33+ size. I know if I went with the SAWs or a Toytec or another shock / spring combo I'll have to get some UCAs that will remain tough and "quiet". Nothing worse then front end control arm squeaks when trying to get in someplace quietly.

Because I tow a boat sometimes - for now i've decided to install airbags (Firestones should be here today) and will probably change the springs to the Superflex allowing me to keep those. I'm guessing I can go with the 10%rs but am considering the HDs. That might be too stiff given the daily driver aspect... both options sound like they'll help with articulation a little. I'd like your collective thoughts on that. I'll rip out the XREAS and put in 5100s or something out back too.

From an articulation and lift perspective - what other front end options would you recommend. The 33"+ tires give you "real" lift and the articulation should allow me to get in as much trouble as possible..

I need a way to do all this without putting too much pressure/angles on other front end components where I will break them and end up "found in the spring" in-trouble.

I'll keep reading the 70+ pages - but would like to get your thoughts on this app.

I'm very satisfied with my Icon extended travel coilovers on the front. They perform great and without going to a LT setup, offer about as much travel as you can get. I've had good luck with my Light Racing UCA's, but some have had issues. Desert Racing seem to be getting good reviews lately, and while they are more then LR, they are still cheaper than most others.

On the rear, I really like the Superflex coils and 5100's. Unless you go with something like the Metal Tech LT kit, it's about the most flex you can get with 2" of lift. The MT kit is awesome off road, but I hated it on road. I found it to be very stiff, but yet it easily bottomed out when loaded down or towing (you have to drop the bump stops 3" with this kit). I'd probably stick with the standard Superflex coils considering you're adding the air bags.

As long as you stick to 3"-3.5" lift in the front, you shouldn't be having any major issues related to the lift.

Sorry to bring this up but I'm putting fj coils and 5100s all around. The could have 8k miles and shocks are new. I have a 2006 sr5 4x4 v6. I am also putting a day star 1.5" spacer in the rear. Can anyone with the same scenario give me advice on what to set the fronts at? I'm doing it all myself and it's a real pain to compress these with a ratchet to assemble them so I really don't want to take them off once installed. I can't decide between 1.75 and 2.5. I'll also throw in I don't want the front higher at all. A little rake is fine.

I'd do the 1.75" setting. This should net around 2.75" lift front, 1.75" rear. If you go with the 2.5" setting, it'll be nose high and can also cause alignment issues.

I'm about to get bilstein 5100 adjustable with OME coils and probably a 1/2 inch spacer on the front struts. debating on getting UCA's or wait for that and soend that money on sliders

I wouldn't combine a spacer with the 5100's, there have been a few reports of issues with the CV's binding at full droop (adding the spacer increases down travel). It will also cause increased wear on other components.

Question for those that have gone from higher mileage stock to FJ/5100 swap.

I've got 150k on stock suspension, back shocks are waking a little and I plan on the FJ coil/5100 shock swap. Probably a 2 3 lift. I'll also replace the end links and sway bar bushings. How will my ride quality change, mainly on road. The wife's would be happier if the ride is smoother or not worse.

I did the same swap on the front of mine at roughly 125k miles. For me it rode smoother and still handled great in the turns. It will be a little more stiff, but IMO it needs to be and it provides better ride quality. I didn't do the rear because I have the factory air suspension.

Hi All
I've got a 03 SR5 V6 that I'm starting to lift. I have the Biltstein 5100's and the Toy Tec 2" super flex coils for the back. I spent yesterday morning installing the fronts at 1.75. Now I realize that I should have set them on 2.5 so we held off on the rear for now. I'll be able to get back under it next week to finish it up and re do the front.

I know it's still going to have a little rake and I can live with it, but I'm wondering if I should just do a 1 1/2 spacer in the rear instead? I will use the truck off road and for towing and it is my daily driver. I do like the extra weight capacity with the Toy Tec coils.

Back a ways I read about the Biltsteins being preloaded above .85. Is this a problem? Another thing I noticed was that no one has said anything about any drive line vibration or having to get a adjustable track bar. I'm guessing these are pretty much a non issue with these lifts?

Would the best ride/handling in the front be with the 5100's set at stock position and a 2" spacer? It sounds like the ride is pretty stiff with the 5100's on the 2.5" setting. I'm using the stock coils up front. Any thoughts?

Thanks Moose

I've ran the 5100's at 1.75" and at 2.5", I couldn't tell a difference. I'd stick with using the Superflex coils for the rear for the added weight capacity and also better performance, and then set the fronts to 2.5". I mentioned this above, since the 5100's are longer than stock shocks it is not advised to use a spacer with them. It can cause more stress on the front end components and the CV's can bind at full droop.
 
are there any extreme negatives from bumping my 5100s up to 2.5 from 1.75? Is it going to double or triple the rate of them wearing out?

The issue is that the more you lift, the less down travel you have. Lifting too much with a shock that wasn't designed for it will cause you to bottom out more frequently and over time can damage the shock (no to mention a loss in ride quality). If you were using stock springs it wouldn't be an issue, but with the FJ's you're going to have an additional 1" of lift. Once you reach 3"+ of lift, it becomes hard to get the alignment back into spec unless you get aftermarket UCA's that allow for more caster adjustment. Low caster will cause the 4runner to wander more when going down the highway.

The biggest issue would be the caster and driveability. It will make a noticeable difference if they are unable to get caster into spec. Doesn't really "hurt" anything, but it will not drive as good. As for bottoming out the shock, over time it will increase wear but I wouldn't say it'd be double or triple the rate. My biggest concern would be the alignment issues and loss of down travel.
 
The issue is that the more you lift, the less down travel you have. Lifting too much with a shock that wasn't designed for it will cause you to bottom out more frequently and over time can damage the shock (no to mention a loss in ride quality). If you were using stock springs it wouldn't be an issue, but with the FJ's you're going to have an additional 1" of lift. Once you reach 3"+ of lift, it becomes hard to get the alignment back into spec unless you get aftermarket UCA's that allow for more caster adjustment. Low caster will cause the 4runner to wander more when going down the highway.

The biggest issue would be the caster and driveability. It will make a noticeable difference if they are unable to get caster into spec. Doesn't really "hurt" anything, but it will not drive as good. As for bottoming out the shock, over time it will increase wear but I wouldn't say it'd be double or triple the rate. My biggest concern would be the alignment issues and loss of down travel.

Thanks. I'll probably raise it up and then get new UCAs. If I buy aftermarket ones will the existing hardware I have just swap over?(Guessing if everything is ok) and do you have a certain brand you'd recommend?
 
Thanks. I'll probably raise it up and then get new UCAs. If I buy aftermarket ones will the existing hardware I have just swap over?(Guessing if everything is ok) and do you have a certain brand you'd recommend?

Aftermarket UCA's come pretty much ready to bolt in, and will work with your suspension setup. I've had good luck with Light Racing, picked them up on sale for around $350 IIRC and they've been trouble free. A few have reported issues though. Desert Products UCA's have been getting great reviews, but they're around $600.
 
ARK SWAMP RIDER...Thank you very much for your thoughts. I really appreciate your time on here. You have put so much into this thread...my hats off to you!:hat:

Moose
 
Thanks. I'll probably raise it up and then get new UCAs. If I buy aftermarket ones will the existing hardware I have just swap over?(Guessing if everything is ok) and do you have a certain brand you'd recommend?

I am one of the anti LR UCA's people. I would suggest looking at Camburg, Total Chaos or Desert Products.
 
My apologies if this has been answered before; there are so many long threads on suspension mods I can't remember everything I've read, especially if i didn't understand it in the first place (max newbie).

I have my "new" 2006 Sport V6 4x4 with 102K miles and leaking XREAS that I am replacing with the Bilstein 5100s. No other suspension mods are planned at this time, and I'll be using the stock coils. I am interested in lifting the front enbough to level the Runner out (currently measuring 33" to wheelwell front and 35" rear). What setting would be best for the 5100 fronts to achieve level. I'm mostly a pavement person with occassional trips on roads less traveled for access to more remote mountain bike adventures.

Any/all advice and suggestions appreciated.

Thanks
 
My apologies if this has been answered before; there are so many long threads on suspension mods I can't remember everything I've read, especially if i didn't understand it in the first place (max newbie).

I have my "new" 2006 Sport V6 4x4 with 102K miles and leaking XREAS that I am replacing with the Bilstein 5100s. No other suspension mods are planned at this time, and I'll be using the stock coils. I am interested in lifting the front enbough to level the Runner out (currently measuring 33" to wheelwell front and 35" rear). What setting would be best for the 5100 fronts to achieve level. I'm mostly a pavement person with occassional trips on roads less traveled for access to more remote mountain bike adventures.

Any/all advice and suggestions appreciated.

Thanks

My thoughts are that you might find the OEM springs, especially at 100k miles to be kind of soft for the level of damping that the 5100 shocks provide. If you have your heart set on staying as low as possible then I'd probably go with something like the FJ springs. I have to say that getting rid of the stock springs and shocks (which only happened two days ago) was the best thing I've ever done for my 4Runner. No more slamming through bumps and throwing around the contents of the cabin, just well-controlled movements that give me far better control on the street, let alone the changes that I'm sure to notice on the trail.
 
My thoughts are that you might find the OEM springs, especially at 100k miles to be kind of soft for the level of damping that the 5100 shocks provide. If you have your heart set on staying as low as possible then I'd probably go with something like the FJ springs. I have to say that getting rid of the stock springs and shocks (which only happened two days ago) was the best thing I've ever done for my 4Runner. No more slamming through bumps and throwing around the contents of the cabin, just well-controlled movements that give me far better control on the street, let alone the changes that I'm sure to notice on the trail.

Thanks for the valuable input. So many people have already gone the FJ route that there aren't many lower mileage springs available; I was planning on going the Moog FJ spring route, but I've been reading in the forum about some fitment issues. I don't have to stay as low as possible, just trying to keep the cost reasonable since my driving style doesn't require overall lift. At 67, I don't relish ascending into the truck so I'll leave the high rigs to you agile young bucks.

I note from your info you are in Ridgecrest. I was USN stationed at what was then NOTS China Lake in 1965-66. This was about a dozen years before you were born, but I'm guessing it hasn't changed that much. Lots of dirt to play in out there; I rode enduro bikes when I was there.
 

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