4th Gen Tailgate won't open unless engine is on

John619

New member
Seems that there is no power to the tailgate unless the ignition is on, although the lights do flash when locking and unlocking from the remote. The tailgate will only open and close with the ignition is on. Same with the rear window, only operates when ignition on and not with the remote or from the tailgate lock.

I just finished looking at fuses and pulled the hatch panel to look for loose plugs and found nothing.

Anyone run into this?
 
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Can't believe I'm the only one with this issue.

Turning on the ignition and unlocking the doors from the inside just to open the tailgate is driving is pretty annoying
 
Thanks, I'll look into that. The color on the battery indicator is completely gone. I'll throw the battery on the charger and see what happens.
 
Well even though the battery indicator shows charging nessesary, my charger shows full charge and still no change with the tailgate.
 
Also try reprogramming the desired function. The tailgate (I believe) can be programmed to open during certain scenarios just like the door locks.
 
No recent electrical mods have been done

Windows are initialized

Battery Cells are low, I'm going to fill them in the morning.
 
Time to take apart the lift gate and test to see if theres a current using a multimeter.

or...

change the battery in the key fob and/or get the key fob tested to see if there is a problem with it. They're very easy to open up. Take off the key ring, put a quarter in the bottom and twist and the key fob will pop open. Maybe you got water in it or a part of it shorted out.
 
I had the exact same problem as you and you're in luck. I bet i know what the problem is........ I found a thread by pure accident after TWO YEARS of this issue. Tried everything that everyone suggested with normalizing and removing the negative battery connection overnight and nothing worked. I was close to taking it to the local Toyota mechanic to get it fixed, but I have built high performance vehicles, rally cars, resurrected junk yard cars, etc. and I will be damned if I was going to run to a mechanic with my tail between my legs on this.

So, I decided to try one more time and I took the hatch apart again. I looked at everything and came up short. I was pissed and in desperation I googled one more time and found a thread that I had never seen before. I cant even find it now, its like it was meant to be found and just disappear....... Weird.

Anyway, here is what the thread said........ Someone had the exact same issues you have and he tried everything, even swapping the rear body ECM. NOTHING! So he had a wiring diagram by chance an he noticed that the blue connector that goes into the body ecu mounted in the tailgate is supposed to be receiving 12 volts on the blue wire and also 12 volts on the blue/red wire with the ignition off. The blue wire was putting out the 12 volts, but the blue/red was 0 volts. He pulled the boot between the body of the 4Runner and the hatch up at the top of the hatch opening. It is the one on the left side when you open the hatch. He pulled the boot back and exposed the wires and there you can find the blue/red wire. He stuck the multi-meter probe in the wire and low and behold, 12 volts with the ignition off!

So I followed this and I tested the blue connector on my rig and the blue/red wire was metering 0 volts with the solid blue wire at 12 volts. I probed the wire up top and I had 12 volts. So I took the plate that holds the body ECM to the rear hatch off and after giving a little play on the wire loom up top of the hatch, I was able to pull the wire harness out a little further. This is when I noticed that the electrical tape wrap was all loose and unraveling. I unwrapped the tape and saw that the blue/red wire was kind of crushed/melted but the other wires were ok. I probed it at this point for continuity to the plug and continuity was good. On the other side of the break in the wire, I was probing 12 volts. I cut the wire and soldered in a new length of wire as a patch, about 3 inches, and heat shrunk some tube around the whole thing. Then i re-wrapped with tape. Checked the red/blue at the connector and had 12 volts! I was beyond excited at this point. Put the tailgate back together and HOLY SHHHHHHHHHHHHIIIIIIIIIP, it worked!!!!!! Key fob opened the window. Tailgate opened without the key on in the ignition, wiper and defrost work without rolling window down and then back up, auto up and down stays memorized and no more weird alarm operation after open and closing gate with key on!!!!!!

Now, I cant say yours will be that easy, but if you want to try something quick I would probe the power wires to the body ECM in the hatch. I can almost guarantee that is your problem. Hopefully you will not have to replace the wire way up in the hatch itself because you will have to fish it out. Yikes!

What it looks like happens here is that either the window or something in the hatch rubs the harness and eventually water gets into the tape causing it to unravel. The wire either gets pinched or rubs right around the base of the window (in my case) and eventually it wears a hole. The window gets water drainage past the seals and it drips down the harness. The wires become oxidized and corrode and break inside the wire itself. I came to this conclusion because once the wire was cut the copper was very oxidized like old pennies. This is just my theory but it seems like the probable cause.

I hope this helps you because it made me beyond happy. It cost me about an hour of my time and $0 to fix. I would have NEVER figured this out if it wasn't for that thread I found and I vow to help others with this problem because it drove me nuts for WAY to long.

Good luck and cheers,

Adam
 
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I had the exact same problem as you and you're in luck. I bet i know what the problem is........ I found a thread by pure accident after TWO YEARS of this issue. Tried everything that everyone suggested with normalizing and removing the negative battery connection overnight and nothing worked. I was close to taking it to the local Toyota mechanic to get it fixed, but I have built high performance vehicles, rally cars, resurrected junk yard cars, etc. and I will be damned if I was going to run to a mechanic with my tail between my legs on this.

So, I decided to try one more time and I took the hatch apart again. I looked at everything and came up short. I was pissed and in desperation I googled one more time and found a thread that I had never seen before. I cant even find it now, its like it was meant to be found and just disappear....... Weird.

Anyway, here is what the thread said........ Someone had the exact same issues you have and he tried everything, even swapping the rear body ECM. NOTHING! So he had a wiring diagram by chance an he noticed that the blue connector that goes into the body ecu mounted in the tailgate is supposed to be receiving 12 volts on the blue wire and also 12 volts on the blue/red wire with the ignition off. The blue wire was putting out the 12 volts, but the blue/red was 0 volts. He pulled the boot between the body of the 4Runner and the hatch up at the top of the hatch opening. It is the one on the left side when you open the hatch. He pulled the boot back and exposed the wires and there you can find the blue/red wire. He stuck the multi-meter probe in the wire and low and behold, 12 volts with the ignition off!

So I followed this and I tested the blue connector on my rig and the blue/red wire was metering 0 volts with the solid blue wire at 12 volts. I probed the wire up top and I had 12 volts. So I took the plate that holds the body ECM to the rear hatch off and after giving a little play on the wire loom up top of the hatch, I was able to pull the wire harness out a little further. This is when I noticed that the electrical tape wrap was all loose and unraveling. I unwrapped the tape and saw that the blue/red wire was kind of crushed/melted but the other wires were ok. I probed it at this point for continuity to the plug and continuity was good. On the other side of the break in the wire, I was probing 12 volts. I cut the wire and soldered in a new length of wire as a patch, about 3 inches, and heat shrunk some tube around the whole thing. Then i re-wrapped with tape. Checked the red/blue at the connector and had 12 volts! I was beyond excited at this point. Put the tailgate back together and HOLY SHHHHHHHHHHHHIIIIIIIIIP, it worked!!!!!! Key fob opened the window. Tailgate opened without the key on in the ignition, wiper and defrost work without rolling window down and then back up, auto up and down stays memorized and no more weird alarm operation after open and closing gate with key on!!!!!!

Now, I cant say yours will be that easy, but if you want to try something quick I would probe the power wires to the body ECM in the hatch. I can almost guarantee that is your problem. Hopefully you will not have to replace the wire way up in the hatch itself because you will have to fish it out. Yikes!

What it looks like happens here is that either the window or something in the hatch rubs the harness and eventually water gets into the tape causing it to unravel. The wire either gets pinched or rubs right around the base of the window (in my case) and eventually it wears a hole. The window gets water drainage past the seals and it drips down the harness. The wires become oxidized and corrode and break inside the wire itself. I came to this conclusion because once the wire was cut the copper was very oxidized like old pennies. This is just my theory but it seems like the probable cause.

I hope this helps you because it made me beyond happy. It cost me about an hour of my time and $0 to fix. I would have NEVER figured this out if it wasn't for that thread I found and I vow to help others with this problem because it drove me nuts for WAY to long.

Good luck and cheers,

Adam
:thanks::thanks:
I've actually seen the post you're talking about. Thanks I think I'll try it on my next day off.
please keep us posted.
 
So I tested the power harness to the ECM this morning. The blue wire has 12v but the blue/red wire only has 8v and 9v with the ignition on. Any ideas what would cause the lower voltage?
 
So I tested the power harness to the ECM this morning. The blue wire has 12v but the blue/red wire only has 8v and 9v with the ignition on. Any ideas what would cause the lower voltage?

What is the voltage for both with the ignition OFF? Both the blue and blue/red wire should be 12 volts at the blue ECM connector. If your pulling low voltage it could be due to corrosion. Now, I am not very good at electrical, but corrosion or ground issue can cause low voltage figures. I would check the wire at the top of the hatch to see what voltage you see there with the ignition off. If it is 12v and you are seeing less then 12v at the connector, it would indicate to me that the wire is damaged.

I never checked the voltage of the blue/red wire with the ignition on, but 8v seems low since the information I've seen indicates the voltage should be 12v.

Let me know what it is with the ignition off and what the wire reads at the top of the hatch.

Good luck.
 
Help On This

Electrical wiring is not my forte and my cars rear hatch has been doing this for nearly 2 years. Turning on the car to open the back is more than annoying... Does anyone have any pics of which wires might be corroding and need splicing? I took a look and mine seem to be in good shape. I disconnected all plugs and reconnected.

I dont have a voltage gauge but will grab one and test the wires I believe that need to be putting out 12V's
 
Really sad that after all the people took their time to help the OP, especially
JrAdrock80 who handed him the fix on a silver platter, that he couldn't at least come back and let everyone know the conclusion. Kind of like a one night stand. Got what he wanted and hit the road.
 
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