4wd Operation questions

Metalmantr

New member
Hey there,

I have a couple questions about my month old 2006 V6 4runner Limited and how I should use my 4wd system.

Question 1: A couple days ago I thought something was wrong with my 4lo setting. When I would shift into it, it beeped at me. Today, I tried it again I did get a beep the first time. Tried it one more time and it seemed to engage no problem! I drove it around a bit and it seemed to run just fine. Do you think I am ok here? Can some initial engagement issues occur and then straighten out if say it has not been operated for a while?

Question 2: I have been reading on the net and also this forum about how the 4wd drive system should not be used on dry smooth pavement. However, as most of you probably know, the manual says to operate the system for 10 miles a month. At this time I do not do any off roading. Do I need to purposely take it off roading to get this required operation time in? Or is it ok to run it on dry, smooth pavement for a limited amount of time a couple times a month?

Thanks all!
 
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Hey there,

I have a couple questions about my month old 2006 V6 4runner Limited and how I should use my 4wd system.

Question 1: A couple days ago I thought something was wrong with my 4lo setting. When I would shift into it, it beeped at me. Today, I tried it again I did get a beep the first time. Tried it one more time and it seemed to engage no problem! I drove it around a bit and it seemed to run just fine. Do you think I am ok here? Can some initial engagement issues occur and then straighten out if say it has not been operated for a while?

Question 2: I have been reading on the net and also this forum about how the 4wd drive system should not be used on dry smooth pavement. However, as most of you probably know, the manual says to operate the system for 10 miles a month. At this time I do not do any off roading. Do I need to purposely take it off roading to get this required operation time in? Or is it ok to run it on dry, smooth pavement for a limited amount of time a couple times a month?

Thanks all!

I don't have a 4th gen so I am not sure about if your engagement is normal or not, but I think it sounds like it's probably okay? Going into 4lo for me is kind of finicky too at times, you have to be in PARK or NEUTRAL before shifting the transfer case...and for me I need to pull the lever just right or else it grinds. I think as long as you don't have any check lights flashing at you, you should probably be okay...just test it out a few more times and see.

Regarding proper use of the 4wd check out this really informative thread by [MENTION=2798]JB.[/MENTION]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...pavement-center-diff-lock-vsc-off-switch.html

Long story short, it's okay to lock the center differential for your monthly routine on dry pavement, just don't go around doing tight parallel parking maneuvers, lol.
 
1/ initial engagement issues straighten out if you do enough 'actuate on' then 'off' cycles. once you are in 4wd you are no longer working the stuck parts free

2/ been a while since I've been to Colorado, have they paved all the roads there ?
of course I was in gravel road country when I visited long ago
 
Eddie, thanks for the response. That was an informative read which helped to clear things up.

Atlanta, Thanks as well. I was super worried that I would have to get it repaired. Wow, it must have been a really long time since you have been here! lol. My parents moved here in the early 80's and they said so much of it was dirt and gravel roads. It is hard for me to imagine. But to answer your question, yes, much of it is paved.
 
1) not sure. Mine doesn't do this. You have to be in neutral for 4lo to engage.

2) you can keep you're 4runner in 4hi for as long as you want as long as you don't lock the differentials. On the dash, as long as you have the green 4 wheel drive icon you're good. It acts as all wheel drive. I live in Denver and keep mine in 4hi all winter long.
 
/\ what he said.
|
It's a full time 4wd system & the 4x4 V8s have no 2wd option so its always 4wd. No problem leaving it in 4wd.
I would however, cycle in & out of 4lo every so often.
 
As for question 1, my guess is you weren't in Neutral the first time you tried it. The transmission has to be in neutral in order to go into 4lo. If it's not in neutral, all you will get is the annoying beep.

As for question 2, you can drive in 4wd all you want on dry pavement as long as the center diff is not locked.
 
I have a very similar issue with my '07 Sport 4x4. I do a lot of beach driving. I can shift into 4W-Hi with no problems, stopped or moving. When I hit the deep sand I stop, shift to Neutral, and move the dial to 4W-Lo. It's a crap shoot...sometimes (rarely) it will go right into gear. Sometimes it beeps, sometimes it grinds like all get out. (is this doing any damage? Sounds awful!). I will put it back to Hi, put it back in gear and move up a bit. Sometimes this works after a few tries. I have even turned the motor off and restarted it, this also seems to work....sometimes. Looking for a consistent method of engaging 4W-Lo!

I gotta say, once there she pulls like a tractor...I have been thru some deep, fine sand and never even come close to getting stuck!

Thanks,

Richard
 
Yeah like they said it's important to exercise the actuators. There are two...one for low range and one for locking the center differential. Exercise both of them each month.

It's not necessary to "go offroading". All you need to do is find a gravel road, grass covered field, some surface that is not paved and switch into low range and drive it for a minute or two then switch back to 2H and you're good to go. Lack of use is the #1 killer of electronic t-case systems.
 
4hi or 4lo is AWD and it is only 4x4 when you also lock the center diff. Once in 4lo or 4hi you can hit the center lock on and off when ever you want.

So for giving it some exercise, if you find a straight road, you can put it into 4hi or 4lo, and drive, and push the center lock on. If you come to an intersection where you need to turn you could disable it. You will come out of 4x4 and back into AWD. Make the turn and get onto a straight road again and lock the center.

This also works great in snow storms. Drive in 4hi most of the time, and just push the center lock when you think you need it, then take it off. No stopping required.
 
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4hi or 4lo is AWD and it is only 4x4 when you also lock the center diff. Once in 4lo or 4hi you can hit the center lock on and off when ever you want.

So for giving it some exercise, if you find a straight road, you can put it into 4hi or 4hi, and drive, and push the center lock on. If you come to an intersection where you need to turn you could disable it. You will come out of 4x4 and back into AWD. Make the turn and get onto a straight road again and lock the center.

This also works great in snow storms. Drive in 4hi most of the time, and just push the center lock when you think you need it, then take it off. No stopping required.

Thanks very much everyone. So, the consensus for the most part seems to be that if the road is straight, even if paved and dry, the vehicle can be operated in 4hi or 4lo with center diff locked and it should be ok.

Also to WXman, should I make sure to exercise the 4hi, both center unlocked and locked as well as 4lo both center unlocked and locked? Basically what I am asking is do all 4 options need to be exercised monthly?
 
When I hit the deep sand I stop, shift to Neutral, and move the dial to 4W-Lo. It's a crap shoot...sometimes (rarely) it will go right into gear. Sometimes it beeps, sometimes it grinds like all get out. (is this doing any damage? Sounds awful!).

Just a guess but I wonder if you hit your DAC (Downhill Assist Control) button accidentally before shifting into 4 lo?

DAC only works in 4 lo and is supposed to keep you from going to fast on a steep hill (though I see you live in Florida, so I'd probably have to show you a picture of what a "steep hill" looks like. Or any hill for that matter. :D )

Anyway, it's easy to accidentally hit the DAC button and not know it (it's on the center console, just below the console lid.) When the DAC button is on and you are in 4 lo, it will definitely make a horrible grinding noise like your transfer case is trying to eat itself. I have been told this is normal.
 
As you shift to 4LO the programming gets more agressive and the vehicle starts trying to compensate more for wheel slippage and such (even more so in 4LO CDL), you'll normally hear beeping, see lights blink or stay solid, and/or hear the transfercase sounds like its about read to explode. This is due to the fact Toyota has gone to a very electronically controlled off-road system that uses the ABS system mainly among other components to limit individual wheel spin and so on. For the most part it is normal, but there's the real possibility that it could be mis-shifting (not supposed to happen with how the actuator is built; but that's assuming its working properly.)

DAC turns itself off after about 15-20mph if I remember right, but it also can be very noisy and disconcerting, it also cancels if you press on the brake pedal too much when its trying to work.
 
As you shift to 4LO the programming gets more agressive and the vehicle starts trying to compensate more for wheel slippage and such (even more so in 4LO CDL), you'll normally hear beeping, see lights blink or stay solid, and/or hear the transfercase sounds like its about read to explode. This is due to the fact Toyota has gone to a very electronically controlled off-road system that uses the ABS system mainly among other components to limit individual wheel spin and so on. For the most part it is normal, but there's the real possibility that it could be mis-shifting (not supposed to happen with how the actuator is built; but that's assuming its working properly.)

DAC turns itself off after about 15-20mph if I remember right, but it also can be very noisy and disconcerting, it also cancels if you press on the brake pedal too much when its trying to work.

I switch mine to 4hi .without locking the CD .every month.do i also ned to lock the CD or 4lo
 
I switch mine to 4hi .without locking the CD .every month.do i also ned to lock the CD or 4lo

One of the problems that people have is that the 4x4 CDL actuator gets jammed from non use. Or they realize it is jammed when they finally need to use it.


So you should make sure that it also works. That is more finiky for me than the 4hi-4lo. 100% of the time, I get into neutral and can engage 4lo with no problem.

You don't even need to drive much to work out the CDL, you're just trying to work it free so it doesn't remain jammed in the off position. So driving and clicking it on and off a few times is fine, I think.
 
Sorry to revive a dead horse, but driving in 4wd today brought a couple more questions to mind:

This was my first time really driving any distance in 4lo. That being said, is it normal for the RPM's to be quite bit higher (the 3,000 range for 30 MPH or so) and for the engine to be noticeably working quite a bit harder? This also brings to mind another question: Is there a general safe speed limit for 4lo? I thought after some research that this was not the case, but after today I am questioning it.

Thanks!
 
4 low is designed to creep along at a slow speed. Shouldn't go past 35-40 mph.

When to use 4 low: heavy snow, climbing or descending steep hills, very rough terrain, plowing through mud, climbing rocks, deep sand and fording water. The key is slow.
 
Sorry to revive a dead horse, but driving in 4wd today brought a couple more questions to mind:

This was my first time really driving any distance in 4lo. That being said, is it normal for the RPM's to be quite bit higher (the 3,000 range for 30 MPH or so) and for the engine to be noticeably working quite a bit harder? This also brings to mind another question: Is there a general safe speed limit for 4lo? I thought after some research that this was not the case, but after today I am questioning it.

Thanks!
it may have been revving higher, but it wasn't working harder.
yes, its normal. just like in the transmission, you have higher rpms for any given speed in 1st gear, than you do in 3rd. low range is really just another gear choice, just a really low one, that is used in conjunction with the rest of your gears.

4 low is designed to creep along at a slow speed. Shouldn't go past 35-40 mph.

When to use 4 low: heavy snow, climbing or descending steep hills, very rough terrain, plowing through mud, climbing rocks, deep sand and fording water. The key is slow.
yup. you use low when you need max pulling power, or slow speed, and control.

its also much easier on the engine, and transmission in those situations.
 
it may have been revving higher, but it wasn't working harder.
yes, its normal. just like in the transmission, you have higher rpms for any given speed in 1st gear, than you do in 3rd. low range is really just another gear choice, just a really low one, that is used in conjunction with the rest of your gears.

yup. you use low when you need max pulling power, or slow speed, and control.

its also much easier on the engine, and transmission in those situations.

The reason I felt it was working harder is the engine was SO loud. It made me worry a bit.
 

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