4x4 PSA: Use it or lose it monthly reminder

1998 Camry (almost 300,000 miles)

Congrats on the mileage! I had 306K on my 98 Camry LE (all miles were mine) when I sold it in 2008 to get a 2005 Camry SE (that I sold in 2015 with 308K - all but the first 44K was mine) and bought a 2012 Camry LE that had 54K on the clock then. We are up to 125K on that on e now, but my daily driver is now the 2008 4Runner (with 166K on it) that we got a couple months back.

Jeff-In-KC
 
I was recently presented with the opportunity to purchases a one-owner 2006 4Runner Sport from a co-worker. I took it for a test drive over the noon hour. She already had the 4Runner in 4hi, so I knew that worked. I tried putting it in 4lo, but it would not go. I tried a few more times and finally it engaged. But when I tried to switch it back to 4hi it would not go! Now I was going to have to tell her I got her 4Runner stuck in 4lo and she'd be forced to drive it home that way. I ran up to my desk and did a quick search on this forum. Found a few threads recommending to keep trying. Ran back to the 4Runner and tried a few more times and to my great relief it went back into 4hi. I later learned that she used 4lo maybe two times. I ended up buying it and have 'exercised' the actuator several times in the two weeks I have owned the 4Runner. It works perfectly now and I will continue to run it through its paces on a regular basis.

I look forward to learning tons from this forum.
 
So my 2wd, 4HI and center Diff lock ok but my truck does not engage 4 low. just flashes. I dont use 4 low and dont think I ever will so 2K to fix the actuator is not going to happen. 4Hi and 4Low are a seperate actuator tho correct?
 
So my 2wd, 4HI and center Diff lock ok but my truck does not engage 4 low. just flashes. I dont use 4 low and dont think I ever will so 2K to fix the actuator is not going to happen. 4Hi and 4Low are a seperate actuator tho correct?

I believe it is the same actuator, just using different rods/pins internally for the different functions.

Keep exercising it.

ps This works as the December reminder.
 
Anyone had 2 failed actuators? Mine was bad when I bought the truck at 83k miles, I replaced it with OEM Toyota one and it worked great for about 2 years, used it all summer, and when not using it I exercise it at least once a month.

Few week ago went to use it and it would engage but the light would keep flashing. I was actually in 4Lo though, and could drive around just fine. Tapped it, wiggled the actuator with bolts loose, nothing would get the light to turn off. Took it apart few nights ago and it seems the internal switch that tells the computer its in 4Lo is bad. :mad2:

This time I ordered the Aisin actuator for 1/2 the cost. I suspect they supply Toyota anyway....but im not spending another $1200 for a part that lasts 2 years. I'll post up after replaced to let anyone know how the Aisin one works.
 
I usually have snow by now, even been in the 20's. I sit in 4W Hi all winter.
______________________
2007 SE V6 Titanium
 
Def agree with use it or lose it! Bought my 4runner used, 4wd didn't engage, kept clicking it back and forth and finally worked. Each time I used it it took less switching on and off to engage. Now it does it pretty flawlessly. Is there anything to lube to keep it from freezing up? I imagine it's an internal mechanism so no way to reach it. I guess I'm just wondering if there are any other maintenance things that can be done to help aside from regularly engaging it.
 
I just bought a 2005 SR5 4x4 4runner yesterday 183K miles. Should I drive in 4hi and 4lo for a while every month, and for how long?

Thank you!

Yea, I believe Toyota recommends something like 10 miles/month to keep everything lubricated. Also engage the center diff lock if applicable.
 
Center Diff Lock Thud

Just did the monthly run through of the 4WD system (2008, V6) and noticed that disengaging the CDL comes with a somewhat violent thunk. No issues with 4HI/4LO.

I've never noticed it before and it engages almost instantly (buttery smooth) but disengaging comes with a violent thud which seems to originate from the front hubs. Any thoughts? Abnormal? Is there anything that needs to be lubricated or checked?

Thanks in advance, this place is invaluable.
 
I just installed a Smittybilt winch and they recommend letting it freespool out and wind back in at least 15' once a month. So when you're exercising your 4wd shifter you'd might as well give the winch some attentiontoo....

For now the winch is pretty difficult to "free spool". I have to lean into it a bit but I haven't had an actual pull with it yet. I'm hoping "exercising" it will make it free up a bit.

I replaced my actuator next year so hopefully exercising the system will keep it working into the future....and I replaced all the grease instead of the lithium grease it shipped with.
 
I just installed a Smittybilt winch and they recommend letting it freespool out and wind back in at least 15' once a month. So when you're exercising your 4wd shifter you'd might as well give the winch some attentiontoo....

For now the winch is pretty difficult to "free spool". I have to lean into it a bit but I haven't had an actual pull with it yet. I'm hoping "exercising" it will make it free up a bit.

Just the strange way my mind works... Is there somewhere solid (like a tree or fencepost) you could mount an eyebolt and hook the winch to that, then back up slowly in 4Lo as part of the "Use it or Lose it" routine to unspool?
 
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I buy/sell cars for a living and am exposed to a large local Toyota dealerships wholesale inventory each week. 8/10 4th gens do not engage in 4 low and are announced as this over the auction block. This thread speaks the truth, use it or lose it! I’ve easily nursed a lot of them back to life by repetitive attempts in different driving conditions.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I buy/sell cars for a living and am exposed to a large local Toyota dealerships wholesale inventory each week. 8/10 4th gens do not engage in 4 low and are announced as this over the auction block. This thread speaks the truth, use it or lose it! I’ve easily nursed a lot of them back to life by repetitive attempts in different driving conditions.

Thinking back to the time I took an FJ Cruiser for a test drive and the salesman explained that the Diff Lock was part of the security system to prevent you from getting towed, and encouraged me to shift into 4lo to "really feel that traction kick in" as we were going about 35-40 mph, I can't help but wonder how many of those are being tested by people who don't know how they work? Like trying to activate it in Park or "shifting on the fly" like in Jeeps....
 
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I buy/sell cars for a living and am exposed to a large local Toyota dealerships wholesale inventory each week. 8/10 4th gens do not engage in 4 low and are announced as this over the auction block. This thread speaks the truth, use it or lose it! I’ve easily nursed a lot of them back to life by repetitive attempts in different driving conditions.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very interesting, and supported by our experience. A couple of years ago, we had an agreement in place with a dealer to buy our '07 pending an inspection by our mechanic. He forgot to check the 4WD but we did and it wouldn't engage. The sales manager at the dealer got this sick look on his face when I told him. After he left to take the truck back to their service people, the salesman said, "A lot of them are like that and we send 'em straight to auction because it costs so much to fix."

The sales manager called later and offered a couple of choices. They would cancel the deal or we could buy it and they would eat 75% of the repair. We took the second option, so they added 25% of the dealer cost of the repair (a bit under $400) to the sales price. I'm sure some wouldn't have taken that deal, but we thought it was fair given that the truck was otherwise pristine, we loved it, had spent over a year looking for one like it, and the price was more than fair to begin with. Looking back, it was 100% the right call.
 
Very interesting, and supported by our experience. A couple of years ago, we had an agreement in place with a dealer to buy our '07 pending an inspection by our mechanic. He forgot to check the 4WD but we did and it wouldn't engage. The sales manager at the dealer got this sick look on his face when I told him. After he left to take the truck back to their service people, the salesman said, "A lot of them are like that and we send 'em straight to auction because it costs so much to fix."

The sales manager called later and offered a couple of choices. They would cancel the deal or we could buy it and they would eat 75% of the repair. We took the second option, so they added 25% of the dealer cost of the repair (a bit under $400) to the sales price. I'm sure some wouldn't have taken that deal, but we thought it was fair given that the truck was otherwise pristine, we loved it, had spent over a year looking for one like it, and the price was more than fair to begin with. Looking back, it was 100% the right call.

We get hit with the double edged sword in our area. I usually find that when a solid rust free one appears, it has 4wd issues due to lack of use. And when a operating 4wd Hi and Low appears, it has rust issues due to needing 4wd!
 

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