4x4 SPOD - Thoughts?

[Jaydub514]

Hey guys,

Just wanted to see if there was any feedback on the SPOD Fuse block/relay setup. I know that they don't make an application specifically for the 5th Gen 4Runner - so for those using it did you go with the Tundra or Tacoma option?

Not sure if there is a good spot to mount any sort of switch panel, so I'd be likely using AOB switches for controls. It doesn't look like SPOD sells just the source without a control panel?

I plan on running a grille light bar, roof mounted bar, and an ARB compressor - so nothing too crazy that would require a complicated setup. I know the SPOD is a little pricier than some options but I'd like the most clean and neat setup as possible and from what I've seen the SPOD accomplishes that.

Thanks!

 

[Chas of MRT]

Its a great system, cleans up the engine bay and makes wiring and controlling accessories super easy. Go for the universal kit with 6 switch panel, the other kits just have provisions for using switch blanks on the specific model, but wont really work on the 4runner. I offer the 6 switch kit for 360 delivered or the 8 switch touch screen for 745 delivered. No tax or shipping saves you about $90 over ordering from SPOD.


Here is a must read thread that will give you some ideas.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/gener...-got-around-installing-spod-past-weekend.html

 

[The Waco Kid]

The tacoma model fits... at the most, you'll have to drill a small hole for one of the bracket mounts into the fender wall. Nothing to sweat at.

 

[Seattle206]

I looked into the SPOD as I was looking into wiring my ARB compressor and switches. Such a pricey system I don't think it will benefit me if I am just doing the compressor alone. Maybe if I had more lighting and a front locker.

 

[krans]

I love my Spod SE system i've had the system for a little over a year now and its worked great i mounted the touch screen in the overhead sunglass holder and when i don't use it i just fold it right up, it almost looks factory. All the options you get are definitely a plus strobe, flash, momentary and my all time favorite is being able to dim lighting circuits last thing i need is my LEDs blinding me while i set up camp. I believe powering a compressor should be no issue has long as it doesn't pull more than 30 amps (which most don't unless you're running air tools). OH!! and cant forget the bluetooth capabilities makes turning off the lights while in the RTT literary a press of a button. So if you had the option to get one i say hell yes.

 

[catastrofe]

I installed one on my Rubicon a couple of years ago. I'm not the most technically competent guy, but I found it to be a very easy installation.

 

[Yelkceb]

Its a great system, cleans up the engine bay and makes wiring and controlling accessories super easy. Go for the universal kit with 6 switch panel, the other kits just have provisions for using switch blanks on the specific model, but wont really work on the 4runner. I offer the 6 switch kit for 360 delivered or the 8 switch touch screen for 745 delivered. No tax or shipping saves you about $90 over ordering from SPOD.


Here is a must read thread that will give you some ideas.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/gener...-got-around-installing-spod-past-weekend.html

Isn't that their older model that only has a 50amp max? Doesn't the SE model have 8 circuits and 100amp max?

 

[Chas of MRT]

Isn't that their older model that only has a 50amp max? Doesn't the SE model have 8 circuits and 100amp max?

Its their standard model - 6 ATO style automotive fuses 3 15 amp and 3 30 amp supplied, Inline 50amp manual resetting circuit breaker

The SE is the new digital, touchscreen unit - Eight circuits rated @30amps @12.5vdc per circuit, The system will protect from 1.5 amps to 30 amps automatically with current-sensing MOSFETs controlled by a microprocessor. 100 amp capacity.

 

[cutty01]

I recently installed the SPOD system and am very happy with it. Now its installed, its just plug-n-play for any new device I want to add.

I originally went with a Bussmann fuse box prewired kit that is sold on eBay, but after I sourced the additional wiring, tools, parts, and switches I wanted to use, the price came out close to the price of the SPOD and switches. I sold the Bussmann fuse box and bought the SPOD.

First I bought the Tacoma kit and this is what I recommend if you are going to install AOB switches using some of the stock locations where you may have blanks (to the left of the steering wheel). The Tacoma switch harness has 3 short pigtails and then 3 longer ones. I wanted to install my switches in the center console cubby so I swapped out the SPOD switch harness to the Tundra version. This one has all 6 pigtails terminating at the same length. I would use this one if you intend to have an in-line 6-switch bank.

Following are some pros I observed of going with the SPOD :

• Easy install
• After install, all you have to do is connect the positive and negative wires from your new device and you are done. In most cases you don't need the wiring harness that come with the device.
• 6 relay enabled switches ready to go
• Much better option than having spaghetti wiring and multiple relays randomly bolted to your engine bay as you add on future circuits that you hadn't planned for originally
• Included built-in low voltage cutoff (in case you leave a switch on my mistake)
• Great customer support

Things to be aware of:

• The terminals needed to connect the device wiring to the SPOD central unit are #6 spade terminals. They give you 12 terminals but they are for 14 to 16 gauge wiring. I wanted to run 12 gauge wiring for a 30A circuit so I had to buy a package of 10-12 gauge #6 terminals which are are not as common. My local auto/electrical stores didn't carry them and I ended up paying an arm and a leg in shipping costs to get them online.
• Running the switch harness through your firewall grommet is not hard, but makes you pucker. The connector plug is pretty big and a lot of force and a big slit in the groumet is required to pull it through.
• I had to drill the positive terminal of the SPOD feed wire larger, to fit around the 4Runner bolt of the battery clamp. The negative wire was already the right size.
• Depending where you install the central unit you will likely need to drill two new holes in your engine bay

Following is how I mounted the switches that came with it (you can get green or blue lights, not just amber):

 

[Jaydub514]

I recently installed the SPOD system and am very happy with it. Now its installed, its just plug-n-play for any new device I want to add.

I originally went with a Bussmann fuse box prewired kit that is sold on eBay, but after I sourced the additional wiring, tools, parts, and switches I wanted to use, the price came out close to the price of the SPOD and switches. I sold the Bussmann fuse box and bought the SPOD.

First I bought the Tacoma kit and this is what I recommend if you are going to install AOB switches using some of the stock locations where you may have blanks (to the left of the steering wheel). The Tacoma switch harness has 3 short pigtails and then 3 longer ones. I wanted to install my switches in the center console cubby so I swapped out the SPOD switch harness to the Tundra version. This one has all 6 pigtails terminating at the same length. I would use this one if you intend to have an in-line 6-switch bank.

Following are some pros I observed of going with the SPOD :

• Easy install
• After install, all you have to do is connect the positive and negative wires from your new device and you are done. In most cases you don't need the wiring harness that come with the device.
• 6 relay enabled switches ready to go
• Much better option than having spaghetti wiring and multiple relays randomly bolted to your engine bay as you add on future circuits that you hadn't planned for originally.
• Included built-in low voltage cutoff (in case you leave a switch on my mistake)
• Great customer support

Things to be aware of:

• The terminals needed to connect the device wiring to the SPOD central unit are #6 spade terminals. They give you 12 terminals but they are for 14 to 16 gauge wiring. I wanted to run 12 gauge wiring for a 30A circuit so I had to buy a package of 10-12 gauge #6 terminals which are are not as common. My local auto/electrical stores didn't carry them and I ended up paying an arm and a leg in shipping costs to get them online.
• Running the switch harness through your firewall gourmet is not hard, but makes you pucker. The connector plug is pretty big and a lot of force and a big slit in the groumet is required to pull it through.
• I had to drill the terminal of the positive wire larger, to fit around the 4Runner bolt of the battery clamp. The negative wire was already the right size.
• Depending where you install the central until you will likely need to drill two new holes in your engine bay.

Following is how I mounted the switches that came with it (you can get green or blue lights, not just amber):

This is awesome info - and exactly what I was looking for! Thanks a ton for taking the time to spell all this out.

Was the center cubby a direct fit or was modification needed? If it was pretty simple I am thinking I may just do that and forego the AOBs on the left of the steering wheel.

Thanks!

 

[cutty01]

This is awesome info - and exactly what I was looking for! Thanks a ton for taking the time to spell all this out.

Was the center cubby a direct fit or was modification needed? If it was pretty simple I am thinking I may just do that and forego the AOBs on the left of the steering wheel.

Thanks!

My pleasure.

If you have a 2014 to 2016 4Runner, then a 6-switch bank will fit in the large hole of the cubby with only minor modifications. You will only have to:
1) File/dremel the edges and corners of the switch bank. I used a OTRATTW switch bank. Here is a link to Engineer's thread.
2) Drill a 1/2" hole in the back of the cubby to run the SPOD wire harness through.

I then used some double sided tape and pressure fit switch bank into the cubby hole.

If you have a 2010 to 2013 cubby (the one that comes with a door), you will have to do some major cutting to the cubby. I have a 2013 4Runner and I actually purchased the 2014 cubby from a fellow forum member just so I wouldn't have to do any major cutting.

As you saw in the post above, another forum member mounted it in the sunglass holder.

 

[Moto69Joe]

I went with the Tacoma kit and used AOB switches in blue (see my build thread). Well worth the price of admission for simple plug and play capability. As you can see all six switches have a home in the oem locations.

 

[MadeInMaine]

sPOD is a great piece of equipment.
But $750??????
That seems crazy steep. Am I the only one?

 

[Spenny]

Well, the $750 one includes a touch screen and I think is bluetooth capable already.

Yes, pricey, but if you're like me and can't wire or do anything technical with electronics then its a pretty good deal. Other option is the SwitchPro, less than 500 and a smaller switch panel as well as fully bluetooth set up so you wouldn't even need the panel.

 

[Jhalko]

This is awesome info - and exactly what I was looking for! Thanks a ton for taking the time to spell all this out.

Was the center cubby a direct fit or was modification needed? If it was pretty simple I am thinking I may just do that and forego the AOBs on the left of the steering wheel.

Thanks!

Center cubby or spot just in front of shifter is ideal for switches, having done it the other way myself, you can see my build thread for pics of how I mounted and my switches. I have some AOB and a 3 panel contura switch plate.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/220563-jhalkos-2011-limited-build-travel-thread-2.html

sPOD is a great piece of equipment.
But $750??????
That seems crazy steep. Am I the only one?

That's for the digital interfaces, much more reasonable for the standard Tacoma version which is what I have.

 

[MadeInMaine]

SwitchPros look great too

 

[Cytronus]

Hey Chas, I see you offer the sPOD SE 8 Circuit with Touchscreen. I'm interested but I see that each channel is limited to 30 amps. If I wanted to run a winch, which on the low end draws 55 amps, high of 400+, and the ARB Dual Air compressor, which draws about 30 amps at a min, up to 68 amps, would this still work or is there a way to beef up individual channels to handle higher amperage accessories?

By the way, if there's any way you can still swing that deal on the WARN ZEON Platinum 10-S, I'm still in. If not, no worries, I'll keep the one I have.

Its a great system, cleans up the engine bay and makes wiring and controlling accessories super easy. Go for the universal kit with 6 switch panel, the other kits just have provisions for using switch blanks on the specific model, but wont really work on the 4runner. I offer the 6 switch kit for 360 delivered or the 8 switch touch screen for 745 delivered. No tax or shipping saves you about $90 over ordering from SPOD.


Here is a must read thread that will give you some ideas.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/gener...-got-around-installing-spod-past-weekend.html

 

[jayhat]

I recently installed the SPOD system and am very happy with it. Now its installed, its just plug-n-play for any new device I want to add.

I originally went with a Bussmann fuse box prewired kit that is sold on eBay, but after I sourced the additional wiring, tools, parts, and switches I wanted to use, the price came out close to the price of the SPOD and switches. I sold the Bussmann fuse box and bought the SPOD.

First I bought the Tacoma kit and this is what I recommend if you are going to install AOB switches using some of the stock locations where you may have blanks (to the left of the steering wheel). The Tacoma switch harness has 3 short pigtails and then 3 longer ones. I wanted to install my switches in the center console cubby so I swapped out the SPOD switch harness to the Tundra version. This one has all 6 pigtails terminating at the same length. I would use this one if you intend to have an in-line 6-switch bank.

Following are some pros I observed of going with the SPOD :

• Easy install
• After install, all you have to do is connect the positive and negative wires from your new device and you are done. In most cases you don't need the wiring harness that come with the device.
• 6 relay enabled switches ready to go
• Much better option than having spaghetti wiring and multiple relays randomly bolted to your engine bay as you add on future circuits that you hadn't planned for originally
• Included built-in low voltage cutoff (in case you leave a switch on my mistake)
• Great customer support

Things to be aware of:

• The terminals needed to connect the device wiring to the SPOD central unit are #6 spade terminals. They give you 12 terminals but they are for 14 to 16 gauge wiring. I wanted to run 12 gauge wiring for a 30A circuit so I had to buy a package of 10-12 gauge #6 terminals which are are not as common. My local auto/electrical stores didn't carry them and I ended up paying an arm and a leg in shipping costs to get them online.
• Running the switch harness through your firewall grommet is not hard, but makes you pucker. The connector plug is pretty big and a lot of force and a big slit in the groumet is required to pull it through.
• I had to drill the positive terminal of the SPOD feed wire larger, to fit around the 4Runner bolt of the battery clamp. The negative wire was already the right size.
• Depending where you install the central unit you will likely need to drill two new holes in your engine bay

Following is how I mounted the switches that came with it (you can get green or blue lights, not just amber):

Tight fit to get the switch panel installed in that little tray? I think I will install mine there too. Just wondering if I will have to trim anything.

 

[cutty01]

Tight fit to get the switch panel installed in that little tray? I think I will install mine there too. Just wondering if I will have to trim anything.

If you use the 2014+ cubby-hole (the one w/o the door) the fit only requires minor trimming to the switch plate bracket along the corners. If you are using the 2010 to 2013 cuby-hole (w/ the door) you will likely have to cut into the cubby-hole itself.

Here is the link, to Engineer's site that describes the minor trimming involved on the switch plate. You can use double sided tape to keep the switch plate in place.

 

[jayhat]

If you use the 2014+ cubby-hole (the one w/o the door) the fit only requires minor trimming to the switch plate bracket along the corners. If you are using the 2010 to 2013 cuby-hole (w/ the door) you will likely have to cut into the cubby-hole itself.

Here is the link, to Engineer's site that describes the minor trimming involved on the switch plate. You can use double sided tape to keep the switch plate in place.

Perfect, thank you!