4x4 vs 4x4 vs 4x2

mideastbeast61

New member
Hey Guys,

I know there are many threads about 4x2 vs 4x4 so I will not bother you guys with those questions. My question was strictly based on relibility. I visited a dealership in Dallas and the salesman was showing me a White SR5 Premium 4x4 (exactly what I want) and then I saw a Grey Trail that was owned by his buddy who worked there too. Here is the question that I had. I started talking with him about 4WD and he told me that the system in the trail is more reliable since it has a transfer lever and and is not activated electronically. I did not really believe him but honestly he could have been right. So my question I have is in terms of reliability, does the 4WD in the Trail and SR5 last the same amount of time if properly maintained or is the SR5's more prone to break? Also living in Texas I know that a 4x2 is probably more than enough but for some reason my gut feeling is to get a 4x4. Opinions on that matter would also be appreciated.

Thanks,
MEB

Also: If there is a similar thread that already mentions this, feel free to post the link and make fun of me and yell. LOL
 
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Until someone can show the repair history, from Toyota, that shows one case is less prone to breakage than the other then it is all conjecture and posturing. I have read most threads here since 2011 and I don't know of a single instance where either a solenoid or a mechanical linkage has broken or failed to operate and if anyone has problems they usually post it here.
 
In a macro level (the whole truck), they are basically similar in terms of general reliability.

In a micro level (just that 1 component), then yes, the electronic controlled transfer case is 1 more electronically controlled subsystem more complicated than a manual lever. Just like an automatic transmission is more electronic than a manual transmission. But for real, the manual system can break too, so, I think it is a toss up.
 
There is some belief that the actuator is more likely to fail. Both SR5 and Trail cases have similar internal strength, so the question is only whether one shifts more reliability than the other. I think the probability of failure is so low that they would be equal to me as a buyer. I have had an ADD (front axle disconnect) fail to engage on my old 4runner at 200k miles. And simply by trying a few times it worked again. I have broken a shift lever off on a 1971 chevy when the pivot shaft seized. So lever actuation can fail too, and I have personally experienced it. I have never had a Toyota manual transfer case fail to shift, nor have I had an electronic one fail to engage.

The biggest thing you can do to keep the electronic one in good working order is to use it once in a while.
 
Is there a lady that will be driving it? Suggest the knob is far more intuitive to estrogen-based lifeforms.

As to the guy with the TE ..... ah nevermind, he's a dipshit.
 
I've had both.

My 2004 SR5 (4th Gen) had the electronic dial and it was the open-transfer-case type (Torsen I believe) meaning I could turn the dial from 2hi to 4Hi without worrying about binding too much because the transfer case was "open" like an open diff in the front and rear. More like a selectable-all-wheel-drive option.

Pressing the electronic "transfer-case lock" switch turned it into the "locked" transfer-case where tight turns on dry pavement were impossible without wheel-hop or breaking something in the drive-line.

Had it up to 189K miles before I traded it in for the 2015. NEVER in the 10 years of owning/driving the 2004 did any of the electronically actuated 4x4 items fail.

As long as one keeps the fluids relatively fresh in front-diff, transfer-case, trans. and rear-diff, the chance for failure is mitigated to abuse or bad luck on the 1-out-of-a-million, mass produced, production-line parts, mechanical or electronic.

Now, onto the 2015 5th Gen. version, having the manual (translation= manly :wink2:) actuating handle for the transfer-case sure provides a bit more confident feedback. However, the front axle is still engaged by an electronic actuator in order for the front axle to connect to the power now coming to it from the transfer-case.

Also, the 5th Gen Trail and TRD Pro versions lock the transfer-case when engaged so driving it in 4hi on dry-pavement making tight turns will get ugly for you.

All that to say that the salesman once again was spewing junk trying to up-sell for more commission!
 
Thanks guys for the responses. Technically the salesman was not trying to up sell me since the base Trail is less than an SR5 premium. The choices I need to make for myself is first off and foremost is whether or not I want the Premium package. I plan on keeping the vehicle hopefully for at least the next 10 years. Then I can decide whether 4x4 is worth it here in Texas. If yes then I can decide whether to stay SR5 or go Trail. Side not, I am single and 23. No estrogen will be here for a long time as I am returning to school for masters then trying to go to medical school. Haha
 
Thanks guys for the responses. Technically the salesman was not trying to up sell me since the base Trail is less than an SR5 premium. The choices I need to make for myself is first off and foremost is whether or not I want the Premium package. I plan on keeping the vehicle hopefully for at least the next 10 years. Then I can decide whether 4x4 is worth it here in Texas. If yes then I can decide whether to stay SR5 or go Trail. Side not, I am single and 23. No estrogen will be here for a long time as I am returning to school for masters then trying to go to medical school. Haha

Hell yeah 4x4 is worth it in Texas! There are some good off road parks in Central and North Texas and Colorado and Utah area only a day or day and a half away.
 
When I first got my Limited 4Runner about 8 months ago, I had a guy at the gas station interested in it. Then he went on to tell me that my 4wd is shit since it has an electronic knob to activate it... Ok broooooo :zoom:
 
There are a good number of reports of sticky electronic actuators over in the 4th gen forum. It's more common for the transfer case actuator to get stuck than the ADD in the front. Though I think most people don't know about the ADD so when they have a problem shifting into 4WD they don't pinpoint it to one or the other.
 
And get rid of the electric starter too. Those dang things go bad all the time!

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4wd is extra weight (300+ lbs in the front) and more to go wrong and maintain. They are still reliable and have much better resale value in some states than 2wd. My point is, don't get 4wd unless you plan to use it enough to justify it. Many people who live in mild climate areas like the idea of 4wd but never actually use or need it.

If you are just going to street drive it... it is great not pushing around all that extra weight for no reason... If you plan to venture off road or into snowy road conditions, go for the TE.
 
I'll try not to upset the sensibilities of the senior management and rocket scientists here on T4R_5th_Gen with my comments. :-)

Why do I like part time 4WD vs. AWD?

I live in a high desert. Three hundred days of the year I drive on dry pavement.

The other sixty-five are nasty.

So I have always looked at it like why do I want all that extra metal turning those front wheels, those computers calculating what my traction is, when I am rolling down 110% F asphalt in July?

I don't. We can argue parasitic drag till the cows come home, but the facts are AWD adds overhead.

I don't need it. If things get nasty, I'll shift that lever that says 4WD and off we go. Otherwise, I'll put her into 4 once a month for a few miles on a straight road to keep everything lubed and good to go.

I like simplicity. That's as simple as it gets with 4WD unless we revert to manual locking hubs (which I have owned and that was not so bad either - getout, lock 'em in, reverse, and go forth). ;-)
 

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