5 Speed Swap & CA Spec ECUs

[WrenchTech]

All 1999-2000 4Runner 5VZ ECUs have that plug, regardless if your vehicle came with an immobilizer or not. There are no ECUs made specifically for vehicles with an immobilizer, the immobilizer is a completely separate entity in the vehicle and all the ECU does is store the coded values the immobilizer checks. So if your 4Runner does not have an immobilizer, this new ECU won't care and should run normally.

Thanks for that info. I was trying to figure the whole thing out by looking at Toyota parts dealer catalogs. I know they call for a different ECU for late 99 4runners and another one for early ones (thru 5/99) It also looks like they replaced several different ECUs that they were offering for 97,98 and early 99 models with a single unit. I thought I was going to have to sell the one I got with the transmission and look for the correct one, but if this one works I’ll be a happy camper. I have the factory electrical service manual and I have been studying it in preparation for my transmission swap. I find it amazing to see how much more complicated the electrical systems have gotten since the first and second generation. They have what they call ECUs scattered all over the vehicle. An ABS ECU, a moonroof ECU, a cruise control ECU, a body ECU, etc. And then they have the small subset of devices that consist of taillight, daytime running lights and a few other things connected in what is called the multiplexing system. In spite of all of that I have not figured out what I have to do with the two switches on the clutch pedal and the reverse light switch on the transmission.

 

[4Reak Show]

5 Speed Swap & CA Spec ECUs

In spite of all of that I have not figured out what I have to do with the two switches on the clutch pedal and the reverse light switch on the transmission.

So I’ve done a manual swap in my 2nd gen. The engine harness has a couple connectors that feed into the body harness. Reverse lights should already be triggered from current automatic transmission I’d guess so as long as it’s the correct polarity, it should go to the body harness pin feeding reverse lights.

The clutch pedal switches are likely going to have to be wired separately since they probably don’t already exist in your automatic trans vehicle body harness. I’m guessing one switch is for cruise control cancellation and one is for starter trigger? Starter trigger can be wired in to complete the starter relay ground circuit or wired in from ignition switch starter relay trigger depending on how those 3rd gens are. The ground interruption idea is probably simpler, but maybe not easier.

As for the other clutch switch, if it’s the one that either cancels cruise and/or feeds the new ECU I can tell you that on my 3.4 swapped 2nd gen, my clutch pedal doesn’t connect to the 3.4 ECU at all and I think there is a pin for it. I’ve had mine swapped for like 12 years and it’s never been an issue. So my second clutch switch feeds the cruise control ECU (which is seperate in my 2nd gen) to be a cancellation in case I tap the clutch pedal which prevents overrevving when cruise control is activated.

Hope that makes sense and gives you some ideas.

 

[WrenchTech]

All 1999-2000 4Runner 5VZ ECUs have that plug, regardless if your vehicle came with an immobilizer or not. There are no ECUs made specifically for vehicles with an immobilizer, the immobilizer is a completely separate entity in the vehicle and all the ECU does is store the coded values the immobilizer checks. So if your 4Runner does not have an immobilizer, this new ECU won't care and should run normally.

That’s good news. I was just getting ready to sell the ECU. That would have been a tragic mistake.Thank you for your valuable input.

 

[WrenchTech]

So I’ve done a manual swap in my 2nd gen. The engine harness has a couple connectors that feed into the body harness. Reverse lights should already be triggered from current automatic transmission I’d guess so as long as it’s the correct polarity, it should go to the body harness pin feeding reverse lights.

The clutch pedal switches are likely going to have to be wired separately since they probably don’t already exist in your automatic trans vehicle body harness. I’m guessing one switch is for cruise control cancellation and one is for starter trigger? Starter trigger can be wired in to complete the starter relay ground circuit or wired in from ignition switch starter relay trigger depending on how those 3rd gens are. The ground interruption idea is probably simpler, but maybe not easier.

As for the other clutch switch, if it’s the one that either cancels cruise and/or feeds the new ECU I can tell you that on my 3.4 swapped 2nd gen, my clutch pedal doesn’t connect to the 3.4 ECU at all and I think there is a pin for it. I’ve had mine swapped for like 12 years and it’s never been an issue. So my second clutch switch feeds the cruise control ECU (which is seperate in my 2nd gen) to be a cancellation in case I tap the clutch pedal which prevents overrevving when cruise control is activated.

Hope that makes sense and gives you some ideas.

That’s a Lotta good information for me right there! I had located the starting switch circuitry in the wiring manual, but I hadn’t gotten to the cruise control part yet. Your comment will accelerate my progress.Thank you.

 

[4Reak Show]

That’s a Lotta good information for me right there! I had located the starting switch circuitry in the wiring manual, but I hadn’t gotten to the cruise control part yet. Your comment will accelerate my progress.Thank you.

As I slept on it, it would be worth finding out how the neutral safety switch plays out in the automatic vehicle body harness. (That’s the switch that only allows vehicle to start in Park or Neutral). It’s another option to possibly reuse those wires for the clutch start switch. Either way, I’m imagining you’re going to have to add wires at some point for the clutch start function to work as intended.

 

[WrenchTech]

As I slept on it, it would be worth finding out how the neutral safety switch plays out in the automatic vehicle body harness. (That’s the switch that only allows vehicle to start in Park or Neutral). It’s another option to possibly reuse those wires for the clutch start switch. Either way, I’m imagining you’re going to have to add wires at some point for the clutch start function to work as intended.

In the electrical wiring manual for this vehicle they definitely devote a lot of coverage to the automatic transmission. I see a thing called the Park/Neutral Position Switch in the wiring diagrams. Right next to it (in the diagrams) are the Clutch Start Switch and the Clutch Start Cancel Switch.The wiring looks pretty straight forward.

 

[Team_Jake]

I created a detailed wiring diagram / instructions a while back showing EVERYTHING needing to be done for a 5-speed swap (link:5-Speed Swap Wiring Diagram) that should answer all of your wiring questions.

 

[Doc2012]

So; I finally found a 99 5-speed ECU and Harness.

My question is; can the 5-speed ECU be programmed to accept the chipped key of the Limited?

If so; how do I go about getting it done?

I’ve called the dealership close to me, the one home, and Toyota USA, with not a single. Damn. Phone call. Back. (Going on two weeks now.)



If not; then I’m going to need to go with my A/T ECU and deal with the CELs (if there are any).

 

[Team_Jake]

So; I finally found a 99 5-speed ECU and Harness.

My question is; can the 5-speed ECU be programmed to accept the chipped key of the Limited?

If so; how do I go about getting it done?

I’ve called the dealership close to me, the one home, and Toyota USA, with not a single. Damn. Phone call. Back. (Going on two weeks now.)



If not; then I’m going to need to go with my A/T ECU and deal with the CELs (if there are any).

The A/T ECU will give you CELs due to A/T shift solenoids "not responding".

The immobilizer issue is a tough one. With the new ECU, your engine will crank but it won't start, because your ignition system is checking the new M/T ECU for the correct immobilizer values. The new M/T won't have those value unless you copy them over from your A/T ECU or get your M/T ECU into re-programming mode, and then program your current keys. Either of these options are not easy. It's very complex, I won't explain everything, this video does a good job explaining the issue: DIY Immobilizer Hacking - YouTube

I'll tell you what I did for mine - I found a local locksmith who claimed they could reprogram ECU chips. I met with him, handed him both my A/T ECU and my M/T ECU. He copied the values on my A/T ECU and reflashed the IC900 chip on my M/T ECU, pasting those values. It worked perfectly. Now all my keys now work with my M/T ECU.

Check out my build thread starting at post #69 for more details. Finding the right locksmith to help you is the hardest part.

 

[Brian.]

My question is; can the 5-speed ECU be programmed to accept the chipped key of the Limited?

If so; how do I go about getting it done?

Apparently it can be done (see Jakes post). I was going to say if you post a picture of the guts of the MT ecu, I could tell you if the chip was there or not... but that's moot.

You'll need a high tech auto locksmith, the dealer will be ZERO help (unless you want to hand over ~$1200 for a new ECU that has a "virgin" chip). Or, if you're enterprising, you can DIY... I've done it myself (3 times, same vehicle, different ECUs). If you have none of the tools needed, it'll cost about $100... though an electronics repair biz (think laptops, cell phones and the like ~ they need to do SMD/surface mount component repair and replacement) Might be a viable middle ground option. Tools needed are a hot air rework station (to safely remove the IMMO chip), a soldering station (to replace it ~ I have a $70 combo that does both) and a chip programmer (ezp2010). Trust me when I say a soldering iron isn't the right tool for removing the chip... there's a reason I've done it 3 times. :/

As a side note, if you're willing to wait on the post office, I'll do it for you for $20 + whatever return shipping is (or, if you're down by Ft Benning, GA in the near future, it'll only take about 30 minutes). Would be a "virgin" ECU, so you'd have to program your keys to the new unit, but it's the same end result. Safer not to desolder the original IMMO chip to read the values. Sadly, there is some risk involved as I'm only a hobbiest and this stuff doesn't always work on the first try ~ fair warning.

 

[Bad Luck]

So what would happen if the manual ECU didn't have the immobilizer components like the auto ECU did? Would it start up like normal?

 

[phattyduck]

So; I finally found a 99 5-speed ECU and Harness.

My question is; can the 5-speed ECU be programmed to accept the chipped key of the Limited?

You will lose the immobilizer function. The truck will start whenever the key cylinder is turned to ON.

So what would happen if the manual ECU didn't have the immobilizer components like the auto ECU did? Would it start up like normal?

The truck will start right up.

-Charlie

 

[Brian.]

You will lose the immobilizer function. The truck will start whenever the key cylinder is turned to ON.


-Charlie

Wait, what? Really? I might have to test that... would love to simply pull the chip as an option.

 

[phattyduck]

Wait, what? Really? I might have to test that... would love to simply pull the chip as an option.

Pull the chip? Unlikely. The ECU will still try to read it. Change to an SR5 ECU - yes.

Funny thing is I currently have the opposite problem. I wanted to replace my 2WD ECU with a 4WD ECU. Too bad it came from a Limited and wouldn't start the truck... whoomp whoomp.

-Charlie

 

[Doc2012]

The A/T ECU will give you CELs due to A/T shift solenoids "not responding".

The immobilizer issue is a tough one. With the new ECU, your engine will crank but it won't start, because your ignition system is checking the new M/T ECU for the correct immobilizer values. The new M/T won't have those value unless you copy them over from your A/T ECU or get your M/T ECU into re-programming mode, and then program your current keys. Either of these options are not easy. It's very complex, I won't explain everything, this video does a good job explaining the issue: DIY Immobilizer Hacking - YouTube

I'll tell you what I did for mine - I found a local locksmith who claimed they could reprogram ECU chips. I met with him, handed him both my A/T ECU and my M/T ECU. He copied the values on my A/T ECU and reflashed the IC900 chip on my M/T ECU, pasting those values. It worked perfectly. Now all my keys now work with my M/T ECU.

Check out my build thread starting at post #69 for more details. Finding the right locksmith to help you is the hardest part.

IT WAS YOU!!!!!

I went back through our PMs and couldn’t find that; and couldn’t for the LIFE OF ME REMEMBER WHO IT WAS/WHERE I SAW IT.

THANK YOU!

THANK YOU!!!

THANK YOU!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Team_Jake]

IT WAS YOU!!!!!

I went back through our PMs and couldn’t find that; and couldn’t for the LIFE OF ME REMEMBER WHO IT WAS/WHERE I SAW IT.

THANK YOU!

THANK YOU!!!

THANK YOU!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

LOL I believe I called you and we talked about it over the phone because the immobilizer stuff is complex and I didn't want to type it all out.

 

[Doc2012]

Quite possible.

I hate typing technical stuff; it’s so much easier to talk it out.

I’m going to look at my 5-speed ECU when I get home; and as long as it has the chip; I’m going to call around tomorrow and see what I can find for someone to program it.

All that computer/clipping/other crap is too much. [emoji23]

I wonder if I can take the ECU to Toyota and have them flash the codes into it?

Just be like ‘here’s my VIN, put those immobilizer codes into this ECU.’


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Team_Jake]

I wonder if I can take the ECU to Toyota and have them flash the codes into it?

I actually tried this first, they just laughed at me and told me to take it to a locksmith. Toyota service centers either do not have the ability to re-flash ECUs or they are not willing to do it. I would take up [MENTION=315156]Brian.[/MENTION]'s offer, he will charge you way less than a locksmith will charge you (I believe I paid ~$160 and I found out later that was a really good deal for a locksmith).

 

[3g4r004x4]

The A/T ECU will give you CELs due to A/T shift solenoids "not responding".

The immobilizer issue is a tough one. With the new ECU, your engine will crank but it won't start, because your ignition system is checking the new M/T ECU for the correct immobilizer values. The new M/T won't have those value unless you copy them over from your A/T ECU or get your M/T ECU into re-programming mode, and then program your current keys. Either of these options are not easy. It's very complex, I won't explain everything, this video does a good job explaining the issue: DIY Immobilizer Hacking - YouTube

I'll tell you what I did for mine - I found a local locksmith who claimed they could reprogram ECU chips. I met with him, handed him both my A/T ECU and my M/T ECU. He copied the values on my A/T ECU and reflashed the IC900 chip on my M/T ECU, pasting those values. It worked perfectly. Now all my keys now work with my M/T ECU.

Check out my build thread starting at post #69 for more details. Finding the right locksmith to help you is the hardest part.

Hey Team_Jake, does all 99/00 manual SR5 ECU comes with the immobilizer IC900 chip?

 

[phattyduck]

Hey Team_Jake, does all 99/00 manual SR5 ECU comes with the immobilizer IC900 chip?

I don't know about the manual ECU, but my auto SR5 ECU does have the chip - I have not dug in to see what is different in the programming of that chip compared to the Limited ECU that I also have...

-Charlie