5 speed swap, wiring question

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kolelt

New member
So I have swapped in a 5 speed and tricked the ECU into thinking its in neutral. Ofcourse I have a check engine light. I want to eliminate this. I have a 97 manual ecu and a repin chart to repin the auto harness to the manual ecu.

But I have few concerns.

How do I get my reverse lights to work

Will I need to install a cancel start clutch switch ? If so any tips ?

How do I go about wiring the clutch pedal switch?

Also someone on Facebook, said I can eliminate the check engine light by tricking the ecu into being in PARK. But this doesn't make sense to me. I don't see how it will eliminate a check engine light ?

From I gathered before is that you simply need to repin it and that's it ?
 
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why?

makes you wish they hadn't decided "no one" wanted 5 spds when they moved to the 3rd gens eh?

2nd gen they are dime a dozen.... 3rd close to hens teeth... 4th gen on extinct. sad.
 
JoeBand said:
makes you wish they hadn't decided "no one" wanted 5 spds when they moved to the 3rd gens eh?

2nd gen they are dime a dozen.... 3rd close to hens teeth... 4th gen on extinct. sad.
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I'll be good. Its all going to work out. But I want to double, tripple check everything before messing with it.
 
You have a 97 like me so I can walk you through what I did when I swapped mine. First of all, when I did my swap I put the engine wiring harness in from the donor. This corrected a couple of problems you are going to have. The ecu plugs are completely different from auto to manual but the two other plugs that run in the harness do fit and the wires are in the same place even though there are more wires in the auto harness. When you got your truck to run you must have grounded the park/neutral switch. You can use that small black/red wire for your clutch switch. The reverse switch is on the transmission and you will have to run a couple of wires to it or if you still have the park/neutral switch hanging underneath you can cut the wires out of that and run them to the reverse switch. The only other problem is that two of the wires that are in the ecu wiring for the manual are in the the other plugs in the wiring harness for the auto. The purple obd wire and if I can remember the sta wire. I sounds complicated but it is not that hard if you know what to look for. Need to get to work but I will come back on tonight
 
St Runner said:
You have a 97 like me so I can walk you through what I did when I swapped mine. First of all, when I did my swap I put the engine wiring harness in from the donor. This corrected a couple of problems you are going to have. The ecu plugs are completely different from auto to manual but the two other plugs that run in the harness do fit and the wires are in the same place even though there are more wires in the auto harness. When you got your truck to run you must have grounded the park/neutral switch. You can use that small black/red wire for your clutch switch. The reverse switch is on the transmission and you will have to run a couple of wires to it or if you still have the park/neutral switch hanging underneath you can cut the wires out of that and run them to the reverse switch. The only other problem is that two of the wires that are in the ecu wiring for the manual are in the the other plugs in the wiring harness for the auto. The purple obd wire and if I can remember the sta wire. I sounds complicated but it is not that hard if you know what to look for. Need to get to work but I will come back on tonight
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Pm me if you doont mind. Yes I have the park/neutral grounded so the truck would start. I also have a manual ecu from 97 and a full manual 97 harness with connectors. Swapping the ENGINE harness is a little pain on the ass isn't it ? Repin isn't sl bad ? I have a repin chart with all the pin #, functions. Basically conversion chart. I'm just little confused if I need to wire the clutch cancel start or not, and the clutch switch ... After repining the auto harness
 
kolelt said:
I also have a manual ecu from 97 and a full manual 97 harness with connectors.
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Swap the harness/ECU.

It really isn't that bad.

The only things you really need to take apart are the glove box and the intake plenum. All the other plugs are fairly easy to get to.
 
kolelt said:
Pm me if you doont mind. Yes I have the park/neutral grounded so the truck would start. I also have a manual ecu from 97 and a full manual 97 harness with connectors. Swapping the ENGINE harness is a little pain on the ass isn't it ? Repin isn't sl bad ? I have a repin chart with all the pin #, functions. Basically conversion chart. I'm just little confused if I need to wire the clutch cancel start or not, and the clutch switch ... After repining the auto harness
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Depends what you mean by 'need'. The clutch switch and clutch cancel switch wire in exactly where the park/neutral switch was. If you want to live without them, you certainly can. Nobody had clutch switches before they became required--probably in the 1980's.

If you want just the clutch switch, you can do just that. 2wd runners are built that way. Or you can put both. They go in parallel. 90% of people never need the Clutch Cancel for its intended use, although I find it very useful on cold mornings to start the truck without getting in. (Make sure it's in NEUTRAL!!!)

It's really up to you.
 
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TheDurk said:
Depends what you mean by 'need'. The clutch switch and clutch cancel switch wire in exactly where the park/neutral switch was. If you want to live without them, you certainly can. Nobody had clutch switches before they became required--probably in the 1980's.

If you want just the clutch switch, you can do just that. 2wd runners are built that way. Or you can put both. They go in parallel. 90% of people never need the Clutch Cancel for its intended use, although I find it very useful on cold mornings to start the truck without getting in. (Make sure it's in NEUTRAL!!!)

It's really up to you.
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Do I have to install them. And wire them or can I skip those two ? And just repin
 
You do not have to put them in if you don't want, having said that it is not difficult to do and if you let other people drive your car or resell it you should put it in. The clutch start switch is a simple ground switch, the park neutral switch wire goes to one lead and the other is a ground to the body. The clutch cancel is the same park neutral switch wire,ground to the body and a 10amp fused power. If you put the manual harness in you will have a plug for the reverse lights on it and three of the plugs to ecu will plug right in with no repining The fourth plug will need to be repined because that is the one for the dash harness and in no way am i suggesting you replace that. The drawback to the manual harness is you need to remove the upper intake manifold and you will need a new gasket if you do
 
St Runner said:
You do not have to put them in if you don't want, having said that it is not difficult to do and if you let other people drive your car or resell it you should put it in. The clutch start switch is a simple ground switch, the park neutral switch wire goes to one lead and the other is a ground to the body. The clutch cancel is the same park neutral switch wire,ground to the body and a 10amp fused power. If you put the manual harness in you will have a plug for the reverse lights on it and three of the plugs to ecu will plug right in with no repining The fourth plug will need to be repined because that is the one for the dash harness and in no way am i suggesting you replace that. The drawback to the manual harness is you need to remove the upper intake manifold and you will need a new gasket if you do
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Hmm , so if I understand this clearly. I go ahead and repin my auto harness to the manual ecu. And I can skip the cancel start clutch switch and clutch pedal switch, and simply drive my 4runner around without any check engine light ? Correctly? And in future I can wire those two up? If I don't wire the cancel start and clutch pedal , the truck will still start after reppin in theory ?
 
Correct Separate functions As long as the starting circuit is grounded it will always start I think it is easier when you are in there wiring to do the clutch start at that time but it is up to you The Durk said there is a junction on the drivers side where you can access the starting circuit but it seemed tight and difficult to reach so I just ran a wire from next to the ecu to the driver side kick panel I would still go for replacing the wiring harness, it sounds like more work but you won't have to deal with the reverse lights and three of your ecu plugs are done already. The park neutral switch does not run through the ecu it runs in the transmission harness(those two other plugs in the engine wiring harness
 
I think it is about even. I am pretty slow with wiring just to make sure it is correct so I know it would take me at least a few hours to repin and then more time to deal with the reverse lights. Putting in the manual harness took me three hours,which gave me the correct wires for reverse and three of the ecu plugs done. I then still had to repin the fourth plug on the ecu because that one is on the dash harness. I would still recommend the manual harness because there is less chance of a mistake and it is closer to factory
 
St Runner said:
I think it is about even. I am pretty slow with wiring just to make sure it is correct so I know it would take me at least a few hours to repin and then more time to deal with the reverse lights. Putting in the manual harness took me three hours,which gave me the correct wires for reverse and three of the ecu plugs done. I then still had to repin the fourth plug on the ecu because that one is on the dash harness. I would still recommend the manual harness because there is less chance of a mistake and it is closer to factory
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He has the ECU and the Harness.

And they're BOTH 97.
It would be SO much easier to swap those out than it would be to repin...

Just my .01.
 
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