5000$ into my 1997 4runner. Suggestions?

[steezemcqueen]

If i had to do it again, it would go in this order

Recovery gear (snatch strap, shackles, come-a-long)
CB
Supercharger
Lift
Tires
Skids
Sliders
Bumpers
Winch

The supercharger makes the truck a completely different vehicle and makes it fun to drive even after all the extra weight and bigger tires. I would not want to drive my truck without an S/C. BTW i picked up my S/C for $900 and have put about 40k miles on it with zero issues.

Sonoran steel makes a nice kit but you can get a better performing setup for less money. You can also just buy all the pieces and parts he includes in that kit for way less.

Lastly, lockers are very overrated IMHO. I have wheeled all over Colorado and Moab with open diffs and now that i swapped in a elocker, it really doesn't make as big of a difference as most people think it does. Sure it makes it easier but wheeling with open diffs teaches you to be a better wheeler and to pick your lines. Most of the time when i can't make a line when i'm open, i still can't make it locked.

 

[white_n_slow]

This post is based on the OP:

I'm not gonna be a hardcore rock crawler but I'd like to be able to do some decently difficult trails.

IMO, the minimum for a decent off-roader is:

Decent tires - the size is up to you

Rear Locker - if your truck came with an e-locker, you're set. If not, an Aussie locker will do the trick for $300

Lift - only as much as needed to accommodate tire size. If you get 265/75-16 tires I wouldn't lift the truck at all (or a small spacer lift) and invest in sliders and skidplates since you will be dragging the bottom side of the truck. If you get 285/75-16, I would lift 2-3 inches.

And that's it. I would not spend money just because I have it. Put it in the bank or save it for maintenance/gas/insurance.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Sonoran steel makes a nice kit but you can get a better performing setup for less money. You can also just buy all the pieces and parts he includes in that kit for way less.

Steve is right that there are cheaper ways. I suggest the SS kit because I feel there is not a consensus on how to build the best DIY SS style kit for say $750.

OP, be sure to read the many lift threads and the sticky before making a decision.

 

[cdrewferd]

If you like the 97 then build it. Don't let people tell you that it's too old, or not worth it. I'm just starting on my 99 with 256k miles on it. I love it and wouldn't buy a newer model if I had the cash laying around.
[MENTION=9139]steezemcqueen[/MENTION] has a good list. If you can find a good supercharger then I'd get that for sure. His list is pretty close to what I'm going to be doing, though skids are going to be my last thing as I'm not sure I can make them myself.

 

[Nachtjager]

As others have said, moderate lift kit - just enough to clear larger wheels and tires. Buy good quality A/T tires and preferably a set of 16" rims. Might want to go with the K&N CAI and freeing up the exhaust via Flowmasters or something of that ilk, but that's a personal choice. Definitely buy an external trans cooler, but hopefully that goes without saying. Other than that, I'd perform whatever cosmetic mods suit your tastes - brush guard, off-road lighting, etc.

I would definitely STAY AWAY from an aftermarket supercharger - very expensive and a ticket to spend money for as long as you'll own the truck. Plus, unless you're going extreme off-roading, you don't need it and it will dramatically cut the lifespan of your 3400.

As others have said, I wouldn't spend $5K on a 1997, you don't need to. You can throw $3K at that truck and do an incredible amount of mods that'll make it look great and last a very long time and still have some money left over for gas - you'll need that! Good luck! :boink:

 

[steezemcqueen]

I would definitely STAY AWAY from an aftermarket supercharger - very expensive and a ticket to spend money for as long as you'll own the truck. Plus, unless you're going extreme off-roading, you don't need it and it will dramatically cut the lifespan of your 3400.

:twitch:

I disagree. Like i said earlier, i picked up mine for $900 and have maybe spent another $300 on the setup with new gaskets, new belt, a smaller pulley, and a timing retard unit. Not much when you consider that it allows my truck to go over the mountain passes without having to hold it at 4500rpm just to maintain 60 mph. It also doesn't really make much difference off road. On road is where the benefit is.

 

[dudeyys]

I really like the looks of the 3rd gen too. I just picked up one for my daughter. How many miles is on yours? Hers has 228k and is still very tight. Mostly highway miles commuting to work. :thumb3:

240k on mine but the engine was completely rebuilt a few years ago by the previous owner and I put some money into it replacing a few things like the breaks, timing belt, alternator, battery, water pump, thermostat, radiator, hoses, sparkplug wires and sparkplugs etc.

 

[dudeyys]

Should I get a set of shocks too or would it be overkill? I see a lot of shockless 4runners around.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Dude what are you talking about. ... Shockless 4Runners?

 

[BrianSD_42]

BTW I would be pretty careful putting that much cash into a high mile truck. I'm at 217k and have easily spent $5000 in maintenance over last 5 years.

 

[JayRolla]

If i had to do it again, it would go in this order

Recovery gear (snatch strap, shackles, come-a-long)
CB
Supercharger
Lift
Tires
Skids
Sliders
Bumpers
Winch

The supercharger makes the truck a completely different vehicle and makes it fun to drive even after all the extra weight and bigger tires. I would not want to drive my truck without an S/C. BTW i picked up my S/C for $900 and have put about 40k miles on it with zero issues.

Sonoran steel makes a nice kit but you can get a better performing setup for less money. You can also just buy all the pieces and parts he includes in that kit for way less.

Lastly, lockers are very overrated IMHO. I have wheeled all over Colorado and Moab with open diffs and now that i swapped in a elocker, it really doesn't make as big of a difference as most people think it does. Sure it makes it easier but wheeling with open diffs teaches you to be a better wheeler and to pick your lines. Most of the time when i can't make a line when i'm open, i still can't make it locked.

Its because you threw in an elocker. If you installed a front locker it makes a huge difference, there has been so many times where a locker would just pull me over something. A locker on a stock vehicle is a huge advantage since tires love to come off the ground. Since you are lifted the and tires actually stay down with the more flex the locker doesnt seem to be that much better. I think locker is more important than a supercharger by a long shot.

 

[dudeyys]

Dude what are you talking about. ... Shockless 4Runners?

I mean aftermarket shocks. Like fox. Sorry I don't know much about them. lol

 

[SCRunner12]

I still stand by my supercharger claim. You can easily find them used for $1500 and they will be fine for more than 30k at least. I'd say 90% of the people who say you don't need a supercharger haven't driven a 4runner with one. As Steeze said it's a completely different animal and well worth every penny. I put that on my list since I hate driving my 4runner up any hills with 33's. It really makes driving the 4runner that more nice to have a s/c. It's not for everyone, but IMO totally worth it.

A front locker is overboard for a beginner wheeler. Yeah it's helpful, but unnecessary for 75% of the wheelers on this forum. He's new to wheeling and working on his 4runner. No way is he going to want to change CV's more due to a front locker or the skills to properly use a front locker.

In regards to bumpers, they are often not necessary for beginning wheelers and most trails. I haven't had aftermarket bumpers and wheeled plenty of tough trails or lines. You might gain some extra scratches or dents, but I'd spend my money on sliders, skids and tires before adding bumpers.

 

[rideexileex]

Hey all, I have a 1997 4runner all stock and I have 5000 dollars saved up. I've been wanting to make my toyota awesome for some time. Problem is I don't know much about cars and offroad mods. I was thinking maybe getting a small lift so I'd have more clearance for bigger tires. What kind of tires / wheels would you suggest? What size tires and wheels and how big should the lift be? I'm not gonna be a hardcore rock crawler but I'd like to be able to do some decently difficult trails. Should I get cold air intake and some better exhaust? I guess what I'm asking is if you had 5000 dollars to put in to a stock 97 4runner what would you do? Thanks!

I'm not seeing many background questions in all of the posts in here... With being new to the 4runner scene, I'm sure everyone's perspective on a 'difficult trail' might be a bit different.

What kind of off-roading are you wanting to do? Simple forest roads, technical trails, or any dune racing?

Make it "awesome" - going for looks? Or pure performance/articulation?

I would use that money at first to make sure all of the basic maintenance items have been addressed. Highly recommended to replace the lower ball joints if they haven't been.

For a general wheeler - as others have said, I would recommend nothing larger than a 285/33" tire. Gearing becomes a factor, as does clearance.

Also, do you have any access to a welder? This will affect labor costs if not, and makes purchasing options cheaper as well.

But lastly, if I had a good chunk of change to spend, I would save a bit for unexpected repairs, fixes, etc.... Breaking things happens a lot in the wheeling world

 

[dudeyys]

I'm not seeing many background questions in all of the posts in here... With being new to the 4runner scene, I'm sure everyone's perspective on a 'difficult trail' might be a bit different.

What kind of off-roading are you wanting to do? Simple forest roads, technical trails, or any dune racing?

Make it "awesome" - going for looks? Or pure performance/articulation?

I would use that money at first to make sure all of the basic maintenance items have been addressed. Highly recommended to replace the lower ball joints if they haven't been.

For a general wheeler - as others have said, I would recommend nothing larger than a 285/33" tire. Gearing becomes a factor, as does clearance.

Also, do you have any access to a welder? This will affect labor costs if not, and makes purchasing options cheaper as well.

But lastly, if I had a good chunk of change to spend, I would save a bit for unexpected repairs, fixes, etc.... Breaking things happens a lot in the wheeling world

I'm mostly going for performance. Although I'd like it to look halfway decent as well. Not a hacked up barely street legal vehicle.

I want to do mostly forrest trails with some occasional mud fun as well. I might go to pismo once a year but that's it.

I do have access to a multi-cert welder too.

 

[dudeyys]

This is kind of cosmetic and not really a huge deal but I took my fender flares off because they had the stupid plastic mud flap that is all torn up anyway. Was wondering if anyone knows of any 97 4runner fender flares that are just clean and don't hang off. I don't want some plastic piece hanging down with potential to get ripped off on the trails or diminishing my clearance.

 

[02SE]

I'm only 21 with no established credit

Reading that, I'll expound on my previous advice.

You would be much wiser and further ahead investing your hard-earned money, than blowing it on stuff that will only decrease in value.

My suggestion would be to save for a house, start establishing credit, establish an interest earning retirement account, etc. When you do have all those things, and disposable income, then buy depreciating toys.

I have a Nephew that's your age. He sees my toys, and thinks it would be a great idea to blow his entire life savings on toys, too. I have to remind him that it took a lot of hard work and sacrifice, to get to the point of being able to have the toys, and a secure future.

I know it's not what you wanted to hear, but it's not bad advice either.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

 

[steezemcqueen]

Its because you threw in an elocker. If you installed a front locker it makes a huge difference, there has been so many times where a locker would just pull me over something. A locker on a stock vehicle is a huge advantage since tires love to come off the ground. Since you are lifted the and tires actually stay down with the more flex the locker doesnt seem to be that much better. I think locker is more important than a supercharger by a long shot.

I have fun with the supercharger every time i drive it. Not the case with the locker.

Yes the locker will pull you over certain obstacles but as i said before, not having one makes you a better wheeler and teaches you to take certain line instead of just pushing the button and having the locker do all the work

I love when i make an obstacle and see everyones faces when i say i did it unlocked

 

[rideexileex]

I'm mostly going for performance. Although I'd like it to look halfway decent as well. Not a hacked up barely street legal vehicle.

I want to do mostly forrest trails with some occasional mud fun as well. I might go to pismo once a year but that's it.

I do have access to a multi-cert welder too.

With a little of that in mind, I would go this route if it were my own:

Replace lower ball joints. Then do any other needed maintenance. Get it running perfectly first - you don't want anything going wrong out on the trail. Do you know when the front O2 sensor was changed? Fuel filter? Cleaned the MAF? Plugs and wires? Seafoamed? These little things will help gain fuel economy.

285's - Either BFG AT's or Duratracs personally, for a general all around tire. Keep the stock wheels - wheels don't offer much, other than backspacing, which can be accomplished with a set of spacers for less.

1" body lift - makes fitting the tires much easier

Suspension lift - I'll vouch for my Sonoran Steel 1.2 kit. I've wheeled it, and love it. Only part I don't care for the is adjustable panhard. If I could do it again, I would go with a heavily reinforced drop bracket instead. It makes the back end a bit squirrely if you're driving around and hit a bump - haven't noticed it as much once I put on my 861 coils though. If you're going to do more dunes, i would consider a different route though, going with a more robust coilover.

Sliders - 4xInnovations makes great sliders that can be had for cheap, if you're willing to do some extra welding yourself. If you go this route, PM me and I'll give you some install tips.

Budbuilt Front skid & Lil Skips Fuel Tank skid- The front skid takes most of the beating, followed closely by heavy hits on the gas tank.

Stereo - If its still stock, I need my tunes... self explanatory.

Optional, but desirable! 99+ headlights, with an HID projector retro! My eyes love light, and this made night time driving soooo much more enjoyable being able to see.

I would start with this, and then you have a capable truck. Nice thing with the pre 99's is the stubby front bumper, which offers clearance. Do you have the e-locker already? As others mentioned, the locker is overrated... A good suspension and tires will do far better than a stock rig with a locker in my mind.

Not 5k, but like i said, I wouldnt want some in the bank.

 

[dudeyys]

With a little of that in mind, I would go this route if it were my own:

Replace lower ball joints. Then do any other needed maintenance. Get it running perfectly first - you don't want anything going wrong out on the trail. Do you know when the front O2 sensor was changed? Fuel filter? Cleaned the MAF? Plugs and wires? Seafoamed? These little things will help gain fuel economy.

285's - Either BFG AT's or Duratracs personally, for a general all around tire. Keep the stock wheels - wheels don't offer much, other than backspacing, which can be accomplished with a set of spacers for less.

1" body lift - makes fitting the tires much easier

Suspension lift - I'll vouch for my Sonoran Steel 1.2 kit. I've wheeled it, and love it. Only part I don't care for the is adjustable panhard. If I could do it again, I would go with a heavily reinforced drop bracket instead. It makes the back end a bit squirrely if you're driving around and hit a bump - haven't noticed it as much once I put on my 861 coils though. If you're going to do more dunes, i would consider a different route though, going with a more robust coilover.

Sliders - 4xInnovations makes great sliders that can be had for cheap, if you're willing to do some extra welding yourself. If you go this route, PM me and I'll give you some install tips.

Budbuilt Front skid & Lil Skips Fuel Tank skid- The front skid takes most of the beating, followed closely by heavy hits on the gas tank.

Stereo - If its still stock, I need my tunes... self explanatory.

Optional, but desirable! 99+ headlights, with an HID projector retro! My eyes love light, and this made night time driving soooo much more enjoyable being able to see.

I would start with this, and then you have a capable truck. Nice thing with the pre 99's is the stubby front bumper, which offers clearance. Do you have the e-locker already? As others mentioned, the locker is overrated... A good suspension and tires will do far better than a stock rig with a locker in my mind.

Not 5k, but like i said, I wouldnt want some in the bank.

Thanks man. Mine never came with the e-locker, at lest I don't think so. My buddy has an e-locker on his same year but there's a button next to the steering wheel, so I'm assuming I don't have it because there's no button to be found lol.

Can I clean the MAF, throttle body, and air intake myself? If so what do you recommend?

Aside from that I haven't seafoamed or had a new fuel filter or O2 sensor. Only thing you mentioned I did replace was new plugs and wires because I had a misfiring cylinder from one of the wire boots breaking and I figured I might as well replace the plugs.