50K trans maintenance

CutthroatSlam said:
Dropping the pan and changing the filter is a most basic exercises. You would have to be a complete idiot to not get it to seal when putting it back on. Just wipe the sealing surfaces dry and install the gasket.

Spec says it holds 11.3 quarts. When doing a fluid change, I usually count on using 12 quarts, but have another gallon on hand.
Click to expand...

Complete idiot....I resemble that remark!
So NO sealant is recommended...please confirm
and
The volume...man that seems like alot for just dropping the pan....is that dry volume or drain and fill (same as dropping pan)

thanks
 
lewdog998 said:
Complete idiot....I resemble that remark!
So NO sealant is recommended...please confirm
and
The volume...man that seems like alot for just dropping the pan....is that dry volume or drain and fill (same as dropping pan)

thanks
Click to expand...

11.3 is total volume dry. Just dropping the pan and changing filter would be 2 to 3 quarts.

I never use any sealant on transmission pans.

I hand torqued with 3/8s ratchet, hand on rachet head, gets me about 16 to 20 ft lbs, which is good enough. Experience matters here, otherwise, use a torque wrench.
 
Should i replace the rear diff and transfer case fluid while doing my transmission change? I'm almost at 60k.
 
Ripper238 said:
Should i replace the rear diff and transfer case fluid while doing my transmission change? I'm almost at 60k.
Click to expand...

Now THAT, I woulda done earlier. At 60k you’re still gonna be fine if you do it now.
My personal schedule is 30k for rear diff and 45k for TC and front diff.
I don’t use the expensive Toyota fluids but it’s up to you.
 
1000MPH said:
Now THAT, I woulda done earlier. At 60k you’re still gonna be fine if you do it now.
My personal schedule is 30k for rear diff and 45k for TC and front diff.
I don’t use the expensive Toyota fluids but it’s up to you.
Click to expand...

Yeah, 35k happened during covid then the time and mileage warp happened. lol

I don't overburden or tow. Ill definitely have them do it all. Thanks!
 
CutthroatSlam said:
Dropping the pan and changing the filter is a most basic exercises. You would have to be a complete idiot to not get it to seal when putting it back on. Just wipe the sealing surfaces dry and install the gasket.

Spec says it holds 11.3 quarts. When doing a fluid change, I usually count on using 12 quarts, but have another gallon on hand.
Click to expand...

im that idiot. I'm traumatized from my rav4 pan and filter drop. It was messy as hell and I thought I got the pan on correctly but weeks later I can still see a bit of weeping at the seams. The filter was a felpro gasket not a sealant of any sort.

Did you ever see debris in the filter itself? You've hit 300k so I'm curious what your findings were during transmission filter changes. Were the magnets covered in metal shavings each pan drop?
 
Last edited:
ok...got stuff coming.

Ordered amsoil severe gear for the front and rear diffs.

gonna get the Tranny (uh I mean transmission) fluid/filter/gasket from dealer as well as transfer case lube.

Have an Inch Lb tq wrench so good to go with the pan.
 
1jzgte said:
im that idiot. I'm traumatized from my rav4 pan and filter drop. It was messy as hell and I thought I got the pan on correctly but weeks later I can still see a bit of weeping at the seams. The filter was a felpro gasket not a sealant of any sort.

Did you ever see debris in the filter itself? You've hit 300k so I'm curious what your findings were during transmission filter changes. Were the magnets covered in metal shavings each pan drop?
Click to expand...

This last fluid change was at a 120K interval and the fluid was very clean and still cherry red. There was a slight film of grey “soot” in the pan and on the magnets placed in the pan, but there has never been any filings. Pan and magnets cleaned up with a paper towel. Could use brake cleaner for cleaning here. Definitely use brake cleaner on the sealing surfaces.

Funny, the thing that spooks me is the filling at temp process. Never have been able to do the jump the OBD II pins to get the temp thing set. I just replaced the amount that came out when dropping the pan, then let the the truck idle for 15 to 20 minutes and called it good and started the exchange process at 2 quarts per time and add 2 quarts. Would help to have a 2nd person here starting and stopping the truck on command. Wives typically not good here.

Usually you keep repeating the pumping process until the fluid is clear, but it was hard to tell the last time because the fluid was already clear. So I did the pump cycles until I used up 11 or 12 quarts, then checked the fluid level by removing that plug. Added fluid until it poured out and waited until it slowed to a dribble to reinstall that plug. Checked it a second time after driving it, letting it cool down and then bringing it back to temp at a 15 to 20 minute idle. Really these damn thing should have a transmission temp send that you could read off an OBD II scanner.

Using the $10 Home Depot garden spray bottle rigged up to pump the ATF fluid in makes this job so easy (search for thread here) and clean.
 
Last edited:
Draining pan and removing it are very easy. Done quite a few different vehicles.
The only car I never did drain and fills was my 01 CRV. 230000 miles, still going okay...
But, with the 4runner, I would imagine its better to be on safe side especially if towing and or off roading allot as it will break the fluid down quicker..
Filling it in the 4runner looks a little bit of a pain, but with a hand pump, shouldnt take long.
What is the recommended fluid? Synthetic or Not?
 
Steve40th396 said:
Draining pan and removing it are very easy. Done quite a few different vehicles.
The only car I never did drain and fills was my 01 CRV. 230000 miles, still going okay...
But, with the 4runner, I would imagine its better to be on safe side especially if towing and or off roading allot as it will break the fluid down quicker..
Filling it in the 4runner looks a little bit of a pain, but with a hand pump, shouldnt take long.
What is the recommended fluid? Synthetic or Not?
Click to expand...

I’m using Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic.
 
If the manufacturer does not EXPLICITLY recommend a transmission fluid flush, I'd never do it. Ever. As far as I know, Toyota does not explicitly recommend a flush for the 4Runner.
 
Steve40th396 said:
Draining pan and removing it are very easy. Done quite a few different vehicles.
The only car I never did drain and fills was my 01 CRV. 230000 miles, still going okay...
But, with the 4runner, I would imagine its better to be on safe side especially if towing and or off roading allot as it will break the fluid down quicker..
Filling it in the 4runner looks a little bit of a pain, but with a hand pump, shouldnt take long.
What is the recommended fluid? Synthetic or Not?
Click to expand...

steer clear of toyota WS as it is not synthetic.. i've had maxlife in for 25k but if i dont sell the 4runner anytime soon, i've got quarts of idemitsu tls-lv ready to go. The Idemitsu viscosity is much closer to Toyota WS than maxlife. Don't quote me on these numbers: Maxlife is a tad thicker viscosity at 6.xx and Idemitsu is around 5.3 and a blackstone analysis tested Toyota WS around 5.3ish as well.. too lazy to source all that right now but its out there.

Idemitsu is the thinnest i could find that's synthetic and Toyota WS approved.. methinks that's why i cant make it past 18.5 mpg these days on a stock ass 4runner
 
CutthroatSlam said:
This last fluid change was at a 120K interval and the fluid was very clean and still cherry red. There was a slight film of grey “soot” in the pan and on the magnets placed in the pan, but there has never been any filings. Pan and magnets cleaned up with a paper towel. Could use brake cleaner for cleaning here. Definitely use brake cleaner on the sealing surfaces.

Funny, the thing that spooks me is the filling at temp process. Never have been able to do the jump the OBD II pins to get the temp thing set. I just replaced the amount that came out when dropping the pan, then let the the truck idle for 15 to 20 minutes and called it good and started the exchange process at 2 quarts per time and add 2 quarts. Would help to have a 2nd person here starting and stopping the truck on command. Wives typically not good here.

Usually you keep repeating the pumping process until the fluid is clear, but it was hard to tell the last time because the fluid was already clear. So I did the pump cycles until I used up 11 or 12 quarts, then checked the fluid level by removing that plug. Added fluid until it poured out and waited until it slowed to a dribble to reinstall that plug. Checked it a second time after driving it, letting it cool down and then bringing it back to temp at a 15 to 20 minute idle. Really these damn thing should have a transmission temp send that you could read off an OBD II scanner.

Using the $10 Home Depot garden spray bottle rigged up to pump the ATF fluid in makes this job so easy (search for thread here) and clean.
Click to expand...

Another question 300k - 120k ago.. so you havent changed ATF for 180k? What ATF are you using and when do you plan to do your next atf exchange? Take pics of the fluid will ya? Please make a new thread when it happens.
 
1jzgte said:
steer clear of toyota WS as it is not synthetic.. i've had maxlife in for 25k but if i dont sell the 4runner anytime soon, i've got quarts of idemitsu tls-lv ready to go. The Idemitsu viscosity is much closer to Toyota WS than maxlife. Don't quote me on these numbers: Maxlife is a tad thicker viscosity at 6.xx and Idemitsu is around 5.3 and a blackstone analysis tested Toyota WS around 5.3ish as well.. too lazy to source all that right now but its out there.

Idemitsu is the thinnest i could find that's synthetic and Toyota WS approved.. methinks that's why i cant make it past 18.5 mpg these days on a stock ass 4runner
Click to expand...
This the same "Brand" that people were saying you can use in my Honda. Never did, but here it is on Amazon.
Is it required to have WS version of Idemitsu?
Amazon.com: Idemitsu ATF Type TLS (T-IV) Automatic Transmission Fluid for Toyota/Lexus/Scion - 1 Quart : Automotive
Or this
Amazon.com: Idemitsu ATF Type TLS-LV (WS) Automatic Transmission Fluid for Toyota, Lexus, Scion - 5QT : Automotive
 
Last edited:
Steve40th396 said:
This the same "Brand" that people were saying you can use in my Honda. Never did, but here it is on Amazon.
Is it required to have WS version of Idemitsu?
Amazon.com: Idemitsu ATF Type TLS (T-IV) Automatic Transmission Fluid for Toyota/Lexus/Scion - 1 Quart : Automotive
Or this
Amazon.com: Idemitsu ATF Type TLS-LV (WS) Automatic Transmission Fluid for Toyota, Lexus, Scion - 5QT : Automotive
Click to expand...

dont trust amazon's compatibility system

The Trusted Choice of Leading Automakers Worldwide | Idemitsu Lubricants plug in your vehicle and it'll tell you to use TLS-LV
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 455 (members: 2, guests: 453)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,310
Messages
3,554,080
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top