5spd swap, HERE GOES NUTHIN!
- Thread starter Jon
- Start date
4-Ripcord
New member
Jon
New member
Got the new F1 Racing Stage 2 clutch mounted today. That's about it. I got a pressure washer to clean everything up real nice (sick of paying $2 in quarters). But wouldn't you know it, as soon as I get done spraying down the truck, I'm bawlzdeep pressure washing the back deck, drive way, fence..... building a crossfit gym in the back yard:boink: and refinishing our coffee table. :wtf: Whatever, it looks way better now. I might tackle mounting the trans today, maybe.
Jon
New member
Iv'e been driving it for a couple days actually, kinda slacking on the update, sorry. But all is well, all gears shift smooth, clutch travel is perfect (pedal feel's the same as the Marlin). Still in the break in period so I haven't been hammering on it, just 500 miles of city driving.
The 5spd went up just fine. Same as the auto came down, custom trans jack and safety straps and a 325lb bench pressing beast!
I started with the hardest stuff first pedal/master cyl. With the vacuum box thing out of the way (2 bolts 1 nut) I had plenty of room. Drew a template and marked the firewall for the center push rod hole. Drilled a small pilot hole for the hole saw then punched through with ease. Stuck the master cyl in and marked the mounting holes and then they were in. My line is 2 eight inch and one 12" section of 3/16 line. A 28" piece would be perfect but I was kinda in a hurry and that's what they had and no flaring tools. Oh well it works. I didn't have the 5spd brake pedal so I just cut mine in half. It had an inch of clearance but foot still tapped the break every once in a while.
The 5spd went up just fine. Same as the auto came down, custom trans jack and safety straps and a 325lb bench pressing beast!
I started with the hardest stuff first pedal/master cyl. With the vacuum box thing out of the way (2 bolts 1 nut) I had plenty of room. Drew a template and marked the firewall for the center push rod hole. Drilled a small pilot hole for the hole saw then punched through with ease. Stuck the master cyl in and marked the mounting holes and then they were in. My line is 2 eight inch and one 12" section of 3/16 line. A 28" piece would be perfect but I was kinda in a hurry and that's what they had and no flaring tools. Oh well it works. I didn't have the 5spd brake pedal so I just cut mine in half. It had an inch of clearance but foot still tapped the break every once in a while.
Jon
New member
Then trans got soaked in Purple Power along with my engine and everything underneath. Finally got to put the pressure washer to good use! Cleanest this thing has EVER been!
Then fluid drain trans and T-case (pretty nasty and low) and refilled with 75-90 GL5. Throw out bearing installed and sticks pulled holes plugged.
Pressure plate and clutch in. You can see the line from the master cyl, that's one 12" and one 8". Waited to get the trans fully installed before bending the last section. Then cut the center section out of the shifter holes.
A few F-bombs later and it's in! Once it was close enough, I threaded the two long bolts in the short bolt spots to act as longer guide pins. By leaving the trans in 3rd gear I was able to turn the drive flange to get the input shaft and clutch splines to line up. Then it was simply a matter of pushing and bouncing till the remaining short bolt to short hole and long to long hole would catch. Tightened those in evenly and installed the other four in they're appropriate spots. Three of the short bolts can be used from the auto. The long ones I had to source from a Mom n Pop hardware store. Toyota didn't even show them on they're diagram and the re**** had the nerve to tell me to go check my $hit again. That's why I do all my own maintenance!:brianr:Stealership! I used the Tacoma cross member but I'm pretty sure they are interchangeable but the 5spd and auto mounts are way different.
The 4Runner auto rear drive shaft is an inch short and the front is an inch long. I got the front from the guy so it got fresh grease and went right in. I put my original rear shaft in and I'm comfortable with the slip length for now. With it at level I've got 2.5" of spline together. I'll probably get a 1" spacer here soon.
Fronts, Auto on bottom
Then fluid drain trans and T-case (pretty nasty and low) and refilled with 75-90 GL5. Throw out bearing installed and sticks pulled holes plugged.
Pressure plate and clutch in. You can see the line from the master cyl, that's one 12" and one 8". Waited to get the trans fully installed before bending the last section. Then cut the center section out of the shifter holes.
A few F-bombs later and it's in! Once it was close enough, I threaded the two long bolts in the short bolt spots to act as longer guide pins. By leaving the trans in 3rd gear I was able to turn the drive flange to get the input shaft and clutch splines to line up. Then it was simply a matter of pushing and bouncing till the remaining short bolt to short hole and long to long hole would catch. Tightened those in evenly and installed the other four in they're appropriate spots. Three of the short bolts can be used from the auto. The long ones I had to source from a Mom n Pop hardware store. Toyota didn't even show them on they're diagram and the re**** had the nerve to tell me to go check my $hit again. That's why I do all my own maintenance!:brianr:Stealership! I used the Tacoma cross member but I'm pretty sure they are interchangeable but the 5spd and auto mounts are way different.
The 4Runner auto rear drive shaft is an inch short and the front is an inch long. I got the front from the guy so it got fresh grease and went right in. I put my original rear shaft in and I'm comfortable with the slip length for now. With it at level I've got 2.5" of spline together. I'll probably get a 1" spacer here soon.
Fronts, Auto on bottom
Jon
New member
Then came the wiring mess. Not gonna lie, I was kinda scared but got some good help from Dantheman. Checked all the mechanical stuff over and it looked good, went to start and got nuthin. The clock dimmed but nuthin else. Suspected the starter, maybe got rusty from sitting for a couple days after pressure washing. After eye fu(king the threads some more I found some wiring info from Dan that helped a lot. Simply cut and splice two wires together in the main trans plug to get the starting circuit completed. This should go to the clutch switch for safety. The colors differ from year to year and model. Mine was whit/black strip and black/red stripe
So now it start and runs and drives. Awesome, now time to get 4wd working again. Of course the Limited has the ADD front diff which has to lock in electronically. Putting the t-case shifter into 4H and 4LO only goes as far as engaging the front drive shaft. No good since the front diff isn't locked in. Another simple fix of splicing a wire in. I stuck the auto's diff stick knob in there since it has the factory "on the fly" 4WD button. Just find the connector that went to the t-case, gray two wire. Dike off the connector and run a wire from the green/red stripe up to the shifter pink wire. Boom, 4WD works. If you just jump from wire to wire at that plug, 4WD will engage BUT the front diff will not disengage without restarting the truck or removing the jumper.
And the almost finishing touch. Still don't know what's going over this, might get a custom leather boot made. And yeah, that is most definitely duct tape!
So now it start and runs and drives. Awesome, now time to get 4wd working again. Of course the Limited has the ADD front diff which has to lock in electronically. Putting the t-case shifter into 4H and 4LO only goes as far as engaging the front drive shaft. No good since the front diff isn't locked in. Another simple fix of splicing a wire in. I stuck the auto's diff stick knob in there since it has the factory "on the fly" 4WD button. Just find the connector that went to the t-case, gray two wire. Dike off the connector and run a wire from the green/red stripe up to the shifter pink wire. Boom, 4WD works. If you just jump from wire to wire at that plug, 4WD will engage BUT the front diff will not disengage without restarting the truck or removing the jumper.
And the almost finishing touch. Still don't know what's going over this, might get a custom leather boot made. And yeah, that is most definitely duct tape!
Jon
New member
Now all that's left is reverse lights and cruise control. More simple wiring. Forgot to mention this part but this is all with the stock Automatic ECM and wiring harness still installed. Guess that might be a big deal and all splices have heat shrink, a MUST! Tomorrow is my first day back to work in a month since deployment! Still gotta put new shoes in the rear and figure out why my rear diff lock isn't engaging. After that it's Camburg UCA's, new CV boots and 35" KM2's. SAS is on hold till I get a big bonus for cross training.
And a quick run to the playground to check drive shaft and that bad a$$ 3.8:1 1st gear over the 2.8:1 from the auto. She crawls now!
and all splices have heat shrink, a MUST! Tomorrow is my first day back to work in a month since deployment! Still gotta put new shoes in the rear and figure out why my rear diff lock isn't engaging. After that it's Camburg UCA's, new CV boots and 35" KM2's. SAS is on hold till I get a big bonus for cross training. And a quick run to the playground to check drive shaft and that bad a$$ 3.8:1 1st gear over the 2.8:1 from the auto. She crawls now!
Stockwell45
New member
Your a badass, thats all I have to say. Nice job!
Jon
New member
I like her BOX!
Congrats on getting it up and running.
Just a suggestion on the clutch line. You might want to incorporate a hose into the line, like Toyota does on manual trans equipped vehicles from the factory, so flexing between the body and drivetrain doesn't fatigue and crack the hard line at a bad time or place.
Just a suggestion on the clutch line. You might want to incorporate a hose into the line, like Toyota does on manual trans equipped vehicles from the factory, so flexing between the body and drivetrain doesn't fatigue and crack the hard line at a bad time or place.
fightman80
New member
Nice work man!
TheDurk
Elite Member
Wow, awesome effort. I passed on a Limited way back in '99 because I wanted a manual.
Just curious--you haven't mentioned the Speedo. Doesn't the auto speedo run off a speed sensor in the tranny, while the 5spd tales a signal from the ABS system? Is your speedo working and have you had to do anything to deal with this?
Just curious--you haven't mentioned the Speedo. Doesn't the auto speedo run off a speed sensor in the tranny, while the 5spd tales a signal from the ABS system? Is your speedo working and have you had to do anything to deal with this?
Jon
New member
Finally got around to wiring reverse lights and cruise control. Really simple. Gonna be harder to explain than it was to actually do.
So again using the main plug, cut the blak/yellow, white/red and red/yellow wires. Both cruise control and reverse light circuits require the black/yellow wire. Starting with the cruise control circuit, it requires a loop from the black/yellow to the clutch disengage switch to the white/red. I said screw the switch and ran a short jumper right at the plug. And it worked perfectly. Now for the reverse lights they need a loop from black/yellow to reverse switch on trans to the red/yellow.
Simply put, the black/yellow will have two wires spliced in, a loop straight to the white/red and another to the reverse switch. Leaving the red/yellow which goes to the other side of the reverse switch.
It all works and only took 30min. I also tossed in one of the original fog lamps as an additional reverse light. Still sorting out this rear diff lock issue.
So again using the main plug, cut the blak/yellow, white/red and red/yellow wires. Both cruise control and reverse light circuits require the black/yellow wire. Starting with the cruise control circuit, it requires a loop from the black/yellow to the clutch disengage switch to the white/red. I said screw the switch and ran a short jumper right at the plug. And it worked perfectly. Now for the reverse lights they need a loop from black/yellow to reverse switch on trans to the red/yellow.
Simply put, the black/yellow will have two wires spliced in, a loop straight to the white/red and another to the reverse switch. Leaving the red/yellow which goes to the other side of the reverse switch.
It all works and only took 30min. I also tossed in one of the original fog lamps as an additional reverse light. Still sorting out this rear diff lock issue.
