5th Gen 4Runner Lift Buyers Guide

personally, that's what i'd do.

and by golly, that's what i did, except i added the Toytec 620lb springs up front...rear 5100s haven't been slapped on yet, but when they do, i'll also be putting in 2 of the OME spacers. those 620lb coils brought the front end up right around 2", which is more than I was expecting. (5100s set on 0).

this setup was rather inexpensive (especially with the 20% off i got on the 5100s via Jet.com), and when the time comes, i won't feel bad about replacing it all.

Thank you!
 
I thought this thread was called "5th Gen 4Runner Lift Buyers Guide"

Wouldn't it make sense to have that information in here? I did use search and could not come up with my particular use case.

But hey, thanks for your help!
 
I thought this thread was called "5th Gen 4Runner Lift Buyers Guide"

Wouldn't it make sense to have that information in here? I did use search and could not come up with my particular use case.

But hey, thanks for your help!

Did you read the first four posts in this thread? It took quite a bit of time for him to put it together and it does explain the different lifts and gives you links. What else do you want?
 
If there a lift for dummies thread somewhere? I'm mechanically challenged, but want to learn. Right now, I'm struggling to understand how 2.5" in the front and a 1.5" lift in the rear equals level.

I don't want much of a lift. Just looking to improve the parade float like ride quality on pavement without sacrificing the stock offroad capabilities of my Trail. Plan on putting BFG 275 KO2's on once I have some miles on these Dunlop AT 20's and like for them not to rub. Sounds like what you're describing is what I want.

I also wanted a minimal lift and some 275s, and didn't like the "parade float" ride. I assumed I would do this via Bilsteins. However, the tire change itself made a big difference and after that I was OK with the stock springs and just did a spacer lift. My Cooper AT3s are C rated tires. BFG 275s are E rated, and thus would be even stiffer.

At this point, the Dunlops are a sunk cost. You know you are going to get the BFGs, so just do it. You may then save yourself some money on the suspension.

As for the "leveling" kits being 2.5/1.5, this never really made sense to me either. Your wheel wells will be level, but your frame will not be. I initially installed just the front 1" spacer, but before I even left the shop I had a 0.5" rear spacer put on. This did actually level the frame when measured from the floor.
 
I also wanted a minimal lift and some 275s, and didn't like the "parade float" ride. I assumed I would do this via Bilsteins. However, the tire change itself made a big difference and after that I was OK with the stock springs and just did a spacer lift. My Cooper AT3s are C rated tires. BFG 275s are E rated, and thus would be even stiffer.

At this point, the Dunlops are a sunk cost. You know you are going to get the BFGs, so just do it. You may then save yourself some money on the suspension.

As for the "leveling" kits being 2.5/1.5, this never really made sense to me either. Your wheel wells will be level, but your frame will not be. I initially installed just the front 1" spacer, but before I even left the shop I had a 0.5" rear spacer put on. This did actually level the frame when measured from the floor.

That's good info. I always assumed I would save money on installation and do them together. But if the tires don't rub and they make such a difference in handling, then I might be able to forgo the suspension change altogether. Or, wait and do something with the entire suspension including the coils later. I'm also worried about my garage clearance. This approach would allow me to put the tires on and rack before doing a lift so I can see where I net out.
 
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It's a mix of Bilstein 5100's, OME 885 front springs and Toytec Superflex rear springs. Everything is listed in post #1 of my build thread linked in my sig line.

Hey 3Wb & friends. I want to say thak you all for taking the time to post. 3Wb I love reading your thread. It’s both fun and informative. I think your thread told me just about everthing I needed to know about what mods I wanted to do.
I knew a guy who used to say to the guys who just did curls and bench press "... do you just want to look like you can kick someone’s butt or do you actually want to be able to do it". Yours does both!

Thanks again.
JD
 
Hey folks.
I was wanting to firm up my ride to limit nose dive & body roll & give me more percise control. I was alos looking for a tad more ground clearance, 1.5 overall to be specific.

I know I wil do Bilstein 5100’s all around. I also know I’m having Wheelers pre-assemble the front struts w/ a lift springs. It’s a good deal at $134, it comes w/ fresh bushings & will save a good deal of install time.

My initial plan was 2.5 lift springs in front & 1.5 lift springs in rear. I figured w/ 54k on the vehicle, if I’m rebuliding the suspension I might as well go new all around as I plan on keeping this for the long haul.

As we all know the Sway-A-Way 1.5 rear lift springs were discontinued. Wheeler’s said they were working w/ Eibach to have them replace them. They are now in stock. My problem is that Sway-A-Way replacement, now know as "Eibach/Wheeler’s T12 rear coil spring” is 2.5” of lift on gen 5 SR5. They are suggesting that I stay w/ my orignal stock springs and go w/ “10mm enhancer kit” which is less than 1/2”. That would have my nose point up which I defefinatly don’t want.
Does anyone make a rear lift spring that would be under 2” in rear for gen 5 SR5?
Thanks!
JD
 
Check your PM's.
I WANT TO KNOW WHAT THE SUPER SECRET IS, TOO

I was looking for the same, and saw that the new Wheeler's springs were 2"+. Was kinda bummed. I've got 4 of the OME spacers here waiting to go on, as that was the only option I could find. I didn't want to shell out for custom springs. This all just needs to last till I get new tires.
 
personally, that's what i'd do.

and by golly, that's what i did, except i added the Toytec 620lb springs up front...rear 5100s haven't been slapped on yet, but when they do, i'll also be putting in 2 of the OME spacers. those 620lb coils brought the front end up right around 2", which is more than I was expecting. (5100s set on 0).

this setup was rather inexpensive (especially with the 20% off i got on the 5100s via Jet.com), and when the time comes, i won't feel bad about replacing it all.

How did you get the 20% off? You just helped me make up my mind? I gave them my email the other day but I think I just received a code for 15%.
 
Just pulled the trigger on 5100’s all round, ToyTech 2 1/2 springs upfront & OME 2” outback. Had wheeler’s assemble front struts. Also got a dif drop kit.
Hope the wife doesn’t hate it. I’ll post results after install.
JD
 
Just pulled the trigger on 5100’s all round, ToyTech 2 1/2 springs upfront & OME 2” outback. Had wheeler’s assemble front struts. Also got a dif drop kit.
Hope the wife doesn’t hate it. I’ll post results after install.
JD

Other than the diff drop is there anything else I should as a result of this ’11 SR5 lift?

Would you recomend longer break lines for this lift? One guy at Wheeler’s thought I’d need new breaklines if I was going to use “all of the suspension travel”, another guy at Wheeler’s told me new break lines were only required over 3” of lift.

When does one need a bigger upper control arm? I see alot of folks here w/ hard core - high-end lift kits w/ Cambourg or Total Chaos. I am not a hardcore off-roader, racer or rock-crawler by any means.

Wheeler’s thought a good alighnment immediatly after the lift is needed & should do the trick. Do you agree? I’ll replace the tires latter this spring most likley.
Thanks.
JD
 
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Shouldn't need a diff drop until you go over 3".

Same with extended brake lines.

UCA's while not required are a good option because the taller you go the more difficulty a tech will have getting alignment within spec.

An alignment would be required as part of the installation because you are changing the suspension geometry.
 
Shouldn't need a diff drop until you go over 3".

Same with extended brake lines.

UCA's while not required are a good option because the taller you go the more difficulty a tech will have getting alignment within spec.

An alignment would be required as part of the installation because you are changing the suspension geometry.

Thanks Bro.

Wheeler’s said the diff drop wasn’t a nescesity but it would limit the wear and therefore extend the life.

They (i.e., Wheeler’s) didn’t even mention UCA. Man they are expensive. The cheapest I saw on Wheeler’s site was “Light Racing” and they were $482. Most were $650 plus. Camborg had a kit for $529 w/ Moog ball joints pre-installed that looked pretty good. From reading the discription, along w/ making alignment easier, apparently they allow more suspensions travel and give "more tire & shock clearance”. Are these an issue at 2 1/2”? From reading the manufacturer’s description, replacing the UCA does more than allowing better alignment, they apparently maximise the benifit of spending the $ on the lift.
Would it make sense to see if they can get it into aligment before spending that $ or would you recomend just going for it now? This was a cost I hadn’t planned on. It will also add to the install cost too. On the otherhand, I don’t want to be penny-wise & dollar foolish.
Please advise.
Thanks!
JD
 
[MENTION=134987]jjdbike[/MENTION] ^if you keep your lift between 2-2.5", a competent alignment tech should be able to keep it in spec without UCAs. I'm at 2.5" lift and have no issues. But if you have intention of going higher like I plan to, then just get everything you need now.
 
Thanks mag. I'll stick to 2 1/2". The manufacture's product dis rioting of the Camborg w/ Moog ball joints claimed that there are other Benifits to that UCA beyond the alignment that allows full benifit of suspension height, implying w/ out it I'm limited in travel. Is there any truth to that? Can't afford to spend money I don't need to but also want to do it right and not have regrets down the road.
JD
 

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