5th Gen 4Runner - Tires and Ground Pressure

1engineer

Moderator
Deep in another thread with a title totally unrelated to tires a question came up about tire width and performance off road. I posted an answer, and because it contains general knowledge some of you who go off road might want to have I will repost it into it's own thread.

Let me attempt to explain:
First off, actual tread width, not section width, would be all that matters for specifying a tire for a surface like sand. I took a few minutes last night and measured my stock 265 tires on my TE and came up with (approximate) these dimensions:

Section width - 10.43" (calculated)
Tread width - 7.50" (measured)
Tread longitudinal contact length - 7.50" (measured)
35 psi in the tire

Now these are measured with a tape measure so they are close but not perfect.
If I take these measurements and also use a curb weight of 4,750 lbs then it is easy to come up with a ground pressure. There is no magic number for ground pressure. The thinner the tire and the higher the inflation pressure, the higher the ground pressure is going to be with respect to the weight of the vehicle.

After doing the calculations I came up with a force of about 21 lbs per square inch of ground. Is this good? Bad? Indifferent? It all depends. See, a passenger vehicle is a design compromise, along with most components on a passenger vehicle. You have to design for all kinds of conditions, and that includes all the different surfaces the vehicle will be driven.

Knowing that, operating on different surfaces (snow, ice, blacktop, mud, sand, etc) optimally will require different ground pressures for the best possible performance. Here is an extreme comparison: A bicycle in loose sand or a 4Runner with 9" wide tires in loose sand. My bike exerts about 35 lbs per square inch and a 4runner with tires that have a 9" wide tread exerts about 17.6 lbs of force per square inch. Have you ever tried to ride a bike in loose sand? Not easy at all but the 4runner only exerts HALF the ground pressure the mtn bike does, and the performance is much better. Basically what a wider tire does is offer FLOTATION over the desired surface. Airing a tire down will increase the contact patch of the tire (not wider but longer) and reduce ground pressure so the tires will not "sink" into the surface. It will also provide increased contact area for traction in loose ground. I did a few examples:

Stock OEM tire with 7.5" of tread = 21 lbs of ground pressure
9" tread - 17.6 lbs of ground pressure
11" tread - 14.4 lbs of ground pressure

If you have seen pictures of the Arctic Toyota trucks with the huge tires they are running just a few lbs of ground pressure, so they can "float" over the deep snow, much like strapping snowshoes to your feet. Conversely, if you have watched a WRC car making a run on ice and snow they are running very thin tires to increase their ground pressure and improve traction.

Bottom line is ground pressure is very important to a vehicle in different conditions, and different conditions require different ground pressure to have optimal traction. In the case of this application and specification from the OP, the park service has probably determined the tire width to keep from having to pull all the dumba$$s out of the sand when they get stuck. Hope this helps.
 
Register to hide this ad
Good article!

I'm wondering the relation between 35 psi on your tire and 21 psi by your calculation. The two numbers should be pretty close, eh?
 
All I could think about while reading about lower ground pressure due to elongated contact patch was, if five members of the National Sumo Wrestling Team took a 3 row 4Runner to the beach ......


5, as I'm not sure 7 would fit!
 
I just recently purchased a 2011 T4R Limited with 20" wheels/tires and I am wondering now how well it will perform in deep sand. I'm accustomed to airing down to 15-18 psi with 15-17" wheel/tires but this is my first set of 20s. It does not seem like they will have as much contact patch when aired down due to the shorter sidewalls. We will be heading back to OBX this summer (Hopefully OBX will still be there at this rate) and we tend to spend a good portion of our time on the beach. The last thing I want to have to worry about is getting my rig buried because I can’t air down enough. Any experience with 20’s on the beach would be appreciated.
 
I just recently purchased a 2011 T4R Limited with 20" wheels/tires and I am wondering now how well it will perform in deep sand. I'm accustomed to airing down to 15-18 psi with 15-17" wheel/tires but this is my first set of 20s. It does not seem like they will have as much contact patch when aired down due to the shorter sidewalls. We will be heading back to OBX this summer (Hopefully OBX will still be there at this rate) and we tend to spend a good portion of our time on the beach. The last thing I want to have to worry about is getting my rig buried because I can’t air down enough. Any experience with 20’s on the beach would be appreciated.

What is the size and type of tire on the rim?
 
Just wanted to include a link to an article explaining a possible direction of tires in the near future. The interesting thing about increasing or decreasing ground pressure as it relates to vehicles is it can be accomplished by either wider tires or larger outside diameter tires.
Flotation in some conditions such as deep sand or deep snow is an advantage. Unfortunately in most other conditions such as rain soaked interstates or icy conditions you need the exact opposite of flotation to get the most traction. You need high ground pressure. Another benefit of higher ground pressure is higher fuel efficiency. Less contact patch = less rolling resistance = better mpg. Anyway, here is the link. Tall and skinny tires the next big thing? | Fox News
 
Thanks for the write up 1Engineer. The link below has a great article from the Expedition Portal on the same subject, including some good info-graphics:

The Lowdown, Off-road Tire Pressures

Okki

EDIT: hahahaha... just realized its the same as the ARB blog post that was mentioned earlier. Goes to show that good info sticks around! :)
 
If I am understanding things correctly here, the types of terrains where we want to try to "float" over are loose surfaces(mud, sand, deep snow, etc.) where there's really no bottom solid surface to reach, and because you don't want to keep digging yourself deeper in?

And on the other hand, when you want to "bite" down in to the actual road surface below (ie. standing puddles, light snow, etc.), that's when decreasing the contact patch and increasing the ground pressure is favorable?

Lots of great information here!
 
If I am understanding things correctly here, the types of terrains where we want to try to "float" over are loose surfaces(mud, sand, deep snow, etc.) where there's really no bottom solid surface to reach, and because you don't want to keep digging yourself deeper in?

And on the other hand, when you want to "bite" down in to the actual road surface below (ie. standing puddles, light snow, etc.), that's when decreasing the contact patch and increasing the ground pressure is favorable?

Lots of great information here!

Always air down off road and stay aired up on pavement. Off road I'll go down to 15 psi except in winter when I go down to 12. If you're running stock sized tires you probably wouldn't want to go lower than 18. The lower you go, the more you risk losing a bead.
 
Always air down off road and stay aired up on pavement. Off road I'll go down to 15 psi except in winter when I go down to 12. If you're running stock sized tires you probably wouldn't want to go lower than 18. The lower you go, the more you risk losing a bead.

It's also easier on he surface that you are actually traveling on. Washboard generally occurs from too much air and too fast a pace.
Tread Lightly, if you can.
 
Isn't contact surface area also affected by loading? More weight in or on the vehicle would mean more pressure on each tire depending on where the CG is calculated to be.
 
Isn't contact surface area also affected by loading? More weight in or on the vehicle would mean more pressure on each tire depending on where the CG is calculated to be.

Absolutely. That is why there are maximum inflation pressures for load carrying ability. Too much surface contact at interstate speeds will lead to friction induced temperature increase, which will lead to a higher inflation pressure due to thermal expansion. If this happens due to overloading and the tire is at max pressure then a rapid loss of tire pressure is likely. Boom.
 
Here is another article on airing down your tyres. I found over last weeks trip that I, on one day aired them up/down three times. What a pain in the ass!
4x4 Tire Pressure, Off Road Airing Down, Off Road Tire Pressure, Airing Down Videos, Airing Down Articles, On-board Air Systems
I aired down to 18 lbs. most times, even the trailer tyres, and didn't have any troubles with the trails. I am concerned about sharp rock and my sidewalls but outside of keeping my eyes peeled to watch for them. You also lose a bit of clearance, something you need to be aware of when you pull a 950 pound trailer.
You do need a good gauge and I may start thinking about deflators.
Tire Deflator Comparison: Everything you wanted to know about airing down and more!!
 
I found over last weeks trip that I, on one day aired them up/down three times. What a pain in the ass!
Get a good compressor or CO2 and it'll minimize the pain.

I am concerned about sharp rock and my sidewalls but outside of keeping my eyes peeled to watch for them.
Deflated tires will conform around a rock better than one at full pressure. That being said, you always need to keep an eye on what's ahead of you as a sharp stick poking out of the ground can just as easily puncture any part of your tire.

You do need a good gauge and I may start thinking about deflators.
I've been running the Trailheads for a couple years now and love them. They're a bit of a pain to set initially, but once they're set properly they work great. I've seen the Stauns and EZ Deflator used and I'll stick with the Trailheads.
 
Get a good compressor or CO2 and it'll minimize the pain.

I do have a good compressor, so I'm all set with this

I've been running the Trailheads for a couple years now and love them. They're a bit of a pain to set initially, but once they're set properly they work great. I've seen the Stauns and EZ Deflator used and I'll stick with the Trailheads.

Thank you, I'll look at these.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,315
Messages
3,554,104
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top