5th Gen 4runner: will my tires (285’s) rub? Here are some things to consider...

Well that definitely makes me reconsider buying the tires. Thanks for the information.



I'll add to [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] by saying that you really need to replay the saying "pay to play" in your head. Many modifications from stock come at a cost/sacrifice somewhere else. We're among many members who are prepared with the skills, time and $$$ to chase the dominos when they begin to fall. If you just want to "beef up" your tires (without the headache,) stay closer to a stock size in an LT rating.
 
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I just saw 275/65/18 Cooper ATPs on my Limited with 8.5" Vortex wheels. (a barely wider stance than trail wheels) They would've rubber on the mud flap for sure... of that gives any perspective on the 285s.
 
I posted this in the huge wheel and tire fitment thread, but thought it might be relevant here since this is secific to 285s.

These are 17x8s with 4" BS, wrapped in 285s (285/70r17). They stick out a hair past flush, but it us still relatively subtle. I eyeballed a bit over 32.75" with my tape measure, so they are pretty standard size-wise. Agressive mud tires with squarer shoulder lugs might be at greater risk of rubbing.

I pushed the front of the fender liners forward at least 1.5 inches (about as far as I could) and have the mudflaps removed. It has a pretty typical alignment, but looking at the LCA cam bolts there should be some room to increase caster and push the wheels forward a bit.

I got it as far into "full stuff" as I could. With the left front on a mound, completely turned to the left, and the left rear quite a ways off the ground. Tere was about 1/4 to 3/8" of space between the back of the tire tire and the body mount.

This is on a TRD pro with factory suspension, so I am not 100% sure how this might work with TE or SR5 factory suspension for aggressive wheeling. (Does the TRD front suspension just use springs to increase the ride height, so overall travel is not actually changed? Or are there other hardware differences that change the front ride height?) There isnt a huge difference in static ride height, though, so this might still work on a TE or SR5.

Hope this helps!

226897d1479147104-going-bigger-5th-gen-tire-fitment-guide-20161113_144334.jpg
 
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Well that definitely makes me reconsider buying the tires. Thanks for the information.
I completely agree with [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] 's advice. You have to be willing to commit. Most of the info about what you need to do is in my first post on this thread or in the hyperlinked threads. That said. I have no regrets about going with 285'a. Again, the research is the fun part ;)
 
I completely agree with [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] 's advice. You have to be willing to commit. Most of the info about what you need to do is in my first post on this thread or in the hyperlinked threads. That said. I have no regrets about going with 285'a. Again, the research is the fun part ;)

Thanks. I hate being the voice of reason and logic all the time lol.
 
Maintaining mud flaps with 285/70/17's mod

I'm running a 3" lift with BFG KO2 285/70/17 on TRD Sema rims with 1.25" Spider Trax spacers. I didn't have any rubbing until the spacers went on and then only with the front tires. Had to do trim the front fender, which actually works out very well with my Bushwacker flares as they seem to have accounted for this in the design.

The front mud flaps were the only thing that was rubbing, so I drilled a very small hole through the inside corner of the flap where the body of the car ends. Then zip-tied the flap to the ends of the body mounts. This pulls the flap back enough to create plenty of clearance while keeping the flaps functional. You can't see the ties at all unless you're under the car. I always keep some ties in the car so no problem if one breaks.

Hope this helps someone keep their mud flaps!

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In this pic tires are turned to their widest point in the well and where they rubbed before the mod.
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Thanks. I hate being the voice of reason and logic all the time lol.
Me too... Wait, we all agree that turning 4runners zombie crushing, rock crawling, never-stuck vehicles that barely make the clearance in most standard parking garages is "reasonable" and "logical" right? Otherwise I am out.
 
I'm running a 3" lift with BFG KO2 285/70/17 on TRD Sema rims with 1.25" Spider Trax spacers. I didn't have any rubbing until the spacers went on and then only with the front tires. Had to do trim the front fender, which actually works out very well with my Bushwacker flares as they seem to have accounted for this in the design.

The front mud flaps were the only thing that was rubbing, so I drilled a very small hole through the inside corner of the flap where the body of the car ends. Then zip-tied the flap to the ends of the body mounts. This pulls the flap back enough to create plenty of clearance while keeping the flaps functional. You can't see the ties at all unless you're under the car. I always keep some ties in the car so no problem if one breaks.

Hope this helps someone keep their mud flaps!

TREiWiwJs7NeRYC9sqMGPHpoNbD6kYNZ1mJ9zULfEYOkFiOD6D08NodzVt03rGarcw29j-ymw538I7Krk4w0XygsSWaUppB07MQbFVU5u8DfB6DimeuDOAhiZKEs4J9SQliQt1gOR7NSr5uWQbcEcrRtPaPtFEeg4GpCi-12LV1w0kXQcEmncf8yRfZ0En6Dtgx10517z_nm9tYUvbje1Yk4XHtCItgvibC2kDjyCuFowlY1TRVEV1Qr8l0UepcVfQLGPNAOeoGKFeuUj-gqH-S-tyPiRIrw3RrGPn01vLEWZ96SL0WUxVxDvE8KIdpHciNyqe0EHuACiO6WVHfsHAP2XLo8JpVNFvvG37SI5wSz1pANuF8H_D8XjjNbr4xtYlmqQx-0iwlz2fB3aG1XNnu5HKZseWHsUpmVko7WyZY2_UxA8G8BcnIwAHn7RPknTsF-e0SkiuydhczYAIcUkrbtAnTNQHdma0x7ocaXz-YK5rNCSj9ecWd3h0KdqkJ6JLc5wo6vTlPn4IJ1qxZRlzC1-3M93acm61VmZh8BHq_Rej5aiARRKuzOgrDBG4Hi0WPvvsNCdkKAAZVwCj09yIC3VSYPDETMC-aMRzK9stBtZAbK=w1678-h1258-no


In this pic tires are turned to their widest point in the well and where they rubbed before the mod.
q29lfnDzlyF5HdXsQRd4U4muZMQzTdoTEA16auDWBkIGLpJ2diT8wuHdN-7IMNIdWfXE5_HWjbsh3e44sU5041eDRU36eZ_VswFwrDCSScOcBrCMA59rILWRdMYvLqZmJyv8vSMrCb-Z9sUTwuGnqKibEbC4PIUh0gfBPLBE_U9MzRJ8-mJJ7tzkkg9S7t2l9_rImWZ04dLhdAUKk7fIkIzHaKsCLPR0cQxvZ-r3XLAJHB_yvRxlnUxwOkincSGZoCW04x-u3ViBnwr6by3_FWReN7Rdi9062DHQhVAlGhdUViF_b3lB3Hae7ppS6v0hQ_dWRRgFGcNV3wJcRHcAo0EfArK8D6kedfPTpo4rseW_BAl2ec2Jvw347FOaxl60wDT00fJpoFw6D9k8SJupOwubk0a-QOiESE12CLfsvZJLADNqZDjjWlMmHv6qLQvo2BV2J0fR44fCVI6nQO9_JuKBHM1Q4DVDhdF6Q1E6j42QpYt6GZeA3_0orsNqE2HvSEqqtnfoaX1F6YzniQUKzaWRmJ2NSq98Y8miAco2AgvZXJtjTogfCjQ_ESBiJ2mwXI8Y3vfk5klEa5DEM_MNjSNQm7cGfcsWYpizXa5TaUYRxlF3=w1678-h1258-no
Nice idea! Does that zip tie slip off under duress? Maybe use something with less flex (i.e. Wire) and bolster it underneath with an additional nut? Just a thought...
 
Hey guys, just thought I'd revive an old thread with my absolutely butchered front fender liners. [emoji23] FYI I did all this to clear 265 KO2's on 17x8 -10 FN Countersteer X wheels. You read that right - I had crazy rubbing with 265's on these wheels and I just went crazy and took out half the fender liners and trimmed the bumper. No issues now [emoji24]. I'm going 285's next so i should be GTG LOL
2da86f883e582241424cbe2a836149c8.jpg
31a9a34e1d33aefde89c12281267f6f6.jpg
c494fcddfdbd5d0630e2bcff25338384.jpg



OME 895E/883 + Bilstein 5100 | GOBI stealth | RCI alum front skid | FN Countersteer X | BFG 265's | AVS hood visor | morimoto HID's
 
Thank you for this write up. And thank you to all the people out there that feel the research is the fun part. [emoji23]

Personally i cant stand the research and compiling data. but spend a lot of time surfing the threads here i guess you would call that research in a way? But i do enjoy the planning of the route i will take.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
My 275/70/17s on K02s rub

Just had new 275/70/17 KO2s installed on new TRD Pro wheels on my 2014 Limited. Stock height, I get rubbing when in reverse with about 75% or greater turn. Going to try to move the fender with the heat gun trick. Was really hoping I wasnt going to get any rub, but oh well:-)
 
No, you are not "good to go." I mentioned lifting because you implied that was important by mentioning you are set at .85.

Depending on factory caster setting (still within proper range but on the low side for example) you could rub on the body mount.

If you want to put 285's on, you have to be committed to modding to get rid of rubbing. Those mods could include:

Trimming bumper cover
Trimming mudflap
Moving inner fender liner
Removing mudflap
Body Mount Chop
Getting an alignment and pushing caster up

...or, you might not rub at all. Every vehicle is slightly different.
I just put 275/70/17 K02s on my 2014 LE and I have slight rubbing in reverse with wheel turned. Guess every TR4 is slightly different?!
 
Just had new 275/70/17 KO2s installed on new TRD Pro wheels on my 2014 Limited. Stock height, I get rubbing when in reverse with about 75% or greater turn. Going to try to move the fender with the heat gun trick. Was really hoping I wasnt going to get any rub, but oh well:-)

any pics?
 
265/70 Falken Wildpeak AT on VTX Rogue have slight rub at full lock when reversing. Going to adjust the fender liner and mud flaps as it shouldn’t take much.
 
How close are you to hitting on the body mount with 285s and the 8.5rims?
I have a similar set up with the KMC XD Addict 17x9 with a -12offset. Just installed my Icon Stage 2 and am about to pull the trigger on some tires. Just want to know how tight it will be and if youve experienced any interference with the BM?
 
Just had new 275/70/17 KO2s installed on new TRD Pro wheels on my 2014 Limited. Stock height, I get rubbing when in reverse with about 75% or greater turn. Going to try to move the fender with the heat gun trick. Was really hoping I wasnt going to get any rub, but oh well:-)

you may need to do the pro mod to move the wheel well liner forward, there is a link to it somewhere on this board. the offset of the pro wheels make them rub. its done at port for pros
 
I have the Toytec/5100 lift maxed out to 3" up front and was getting bad rubbing with 285 Destination MTs at full lock in reverse. Body mount chop is the only real solution to stop all of it. I'd also aggressively cut into the plastic in the fender wells. Don't just pull it forward, cut some large holes into it.
 

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