5th Gen Calipers

[chayos00]

New member of the seized piston club here. After reading all this and more what I need to know is this:
1. Are the 5th gen calipers really less likely to have this problem over time or are we just hoping ?

2 .Is there a problem with pedal feel, travel etc? Or is it just getting the system bleed properly for those who mentioned this?

Please let me know. I have to replace at least the fronts SOON. Thx

Not sure as the the true ability for it not to seize.... however I also live in the desert so I never had the problem in the first place.

For the pedal feel mine have always felt softer but it returned to normal after I did about 50-100 miles with gentle braking and then I did an ABS stop from 60 and pedal feel was back to normal.

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

 

[Slowgoat]

New member of the seized piston club here. After reading all this and more what I need to know is this:
1. Are the 5th gen calipers really less likely to have this problem over time or are we just hoping ?

2 .Is there a problem with pedal feel, travel etc? Or is it just getting the system bleed properly for those who mentioned this?

Please let me know. I have to replace at least the fronts SOON. Thx

You'll be fine.

Search for my post buried in this thread. Do a bunch of long slow pedal pumps, etc. to get the micro bubbles out of the system.

I love my 5th gen calipers. Feel stronger.

Good luck!!

Pm me any questions if you'd like.

 

[AluminumMonster]

For the master cylinder, I don't think I ran it dry, but it did go down to the "min" line when I was changing out my brakes and SS lines. I'm going to try driving it a bit to break in the brakes and then if things are still "odd" to me then I'll go to Toyota to have them try to get any air out of the MC. Wish there was a way we could bleed the MC without having to go down to Yota, I hate my dealer's shop, they jacked up my alignment tabs and blamed me. I ended up replacing them with some Total Chaos ones to fix the problem.

I didn't do the rears but I had a pretty similar situation to you. I bought Speedbleeders and could still never get a good pedal feel. Read every post on here about bleeding, tried every trick, but it wasn't great. Took it to Toyota, had them flush the brake fluid and bleed everything and it's been fine ever since. I say "fine" because it's not like touch the brakes and truck slows down, you still have to get into the pedal pretty good before it stops but it's a more positive feel than when I bleed them myself. Going on a year since I did the caliper swap and they haven't seized up yet.

 

[jfry008]

I have installed the 5th Gen upgrade on all 4 corners of my 2003 4R Ltd (calipers and rotors), since both front calipers were seized (again/ 4th time in 150,000 miles). I chose to buy new Gen 5 dust guards for a clean fit. I also went with the "StopTech Sport; Slotted; Heavy Duty/Towing & Track" rotors as I tow a very heavy trailer often. Changed hoses all around while I was at it. Since this is a 'work truck', I didn't bother painting the calipers. I did not need to mess with the parking brake at all. Old rotors slipped right off, new slipped on. P-Brake still works fine.

I have driven about 750 miles in the last 3 weeks since the upgrade. At first I wasn't super impressed with the stopping power, but following the manufacturer recommended 'go easy' first 400-500 miles duration the Akebonos are now providing much better stopping performance than the stock system.

Smooth and silent. I'm happy with the results. Will likely do this on my '04 GX470 if they seize again.

Parts list:
Front Brake Caliper Upgrade Left CENTRIC 14144288
Front Brake Caliper Upgrade Right CENTRIC 14144287
Front Brake Dust Guard Upgrade Left 47782-60120
Front Brake Dust Guard Upgrade Right 47781-60120
Front Brake Rotors Upgrade Left CENTRIC 12644174SL
Front Brake Rotors Upgrade Right CENTRIC 12644174SR
Rear Brake Calipers Upgrade Left CENTRIC 14144588
Rear Brake Calipers Upgrade Right CENTRIC 14144587
Rear Brake Rotors Upgrade Left CENTRIC 12644175SL
Rear Brake Rotors Upgrade Right CENTRIC 12644175SR
Front Brake Hose Left CENTRIC 95044007 StopTech Stainless Steel
Front Brake Hose Right CENTRIC 95044007 StopTech Stainless Steel
Rear Brake Hoses to calipers Left ACDelco 18J4472 (Centrics kept shipping without the copper washers 3x)
Rear Brake Hoses to calipers Right ACDelco 18J4473
Rear Brake Hoses to frame Left CENTRIC 15044397
Rear Brake Hoses to frame Right CENTRIC 15044397
Front Brake Pads Upgrade AKEBONO ACT976
Rear Brake Pads Upgrade AKEBONO ASP606

Looks good! Did you paint the calipers?

 

[Blacktip]

Does anyone know if the Dust Guards for a 5th gen would fit on a 4th gen? I've got an 08 SR5 with 17" wheels but it appears to have the smaller rotors. I know the 4th gen Sport has the larger rotor and the dust guard fit with the 5th gen upgrade is very close. What I don't know is if the Sport dust guard is larger than mine with it's smaller rotor. What I'm trying to do is determine which dust guard will fit the closet and require the least amount of cutting and bending. Does anyone have any idea on this? Thx

I saw post 537 above and the P/N is for 4th gen 17" wheel but doesn't specify SE, Limited or SR5.

 

[chayos00]

Does anyone know if the Dust Guards for a 5th gen would fit on a 4th gen? I've got an 08 SR5 with 17" wheels but it appears to have the smaller rotors. I know the 4th gen Sport has the larger rotor and the dust guard fit with the 5th gen upgrade is very close. What I don't know is if the Sport dust guard is larger than mine with it's smaller rotor. What I'm trying to do is determine which dust guard will fit the closet and require the least amount of cutting and bending. Does anyone have any idea on this? Thx

I saw post 537 above and the P/N is for 4th gen 17" wheel but doesn't specify SE, Limited or SR5.

I recall seeing someone did the swap but when I did the change all I needed was a pair of channel locks and I was able to bend the few spots that would of touched in less than 3-5 minutes.

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

 

[DMV4runner]

I did the 5th gen swap on my 2008 SR5 without cutting anything. I justed used a pair of channel locks to bend the dust shield back out of the way. So far, I haven had any issues with it.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

Did the same on my FJ... just bent them back.

 

[ZoSoIV]

The 4th gen 4 runner should be a 338mm rotor and the 5th gen are 338 also so the sheilds should be the same ... unless you would happen to have 319 mm rotors which is possible ... the only difference in the 4th gen compared to the 5 gen is the thickness of the rotor 4th gen is 28mm 5th gen is 32mm and the 5th gen use a four piston calipers

 

[Ther00ster]

I have 13WH larger calipers is it worth going to the 5 gen calipers?

 

[pjbrownva]

Here you go. I went with brass. Some people contended they broke the brass ones but I have a feeling they severely over-tightened them. I might eat crow one day but they went in great and the bleeding was stupidly easy. Took all of 5 minutes. I was positive I did something wrong by how quick and easy it was.

Speed Bleeder SB1010 M10 x 1.0 | eBay

Speed Bleeder SB7100 M7 x 1.0 | eBay

If I remember correctly the SB1010 is the rears. $38 for bleeders but in my opinion one of the best purchases I have made for the vehicle.

I broke off the brass ones I used. I used a closed end box wrench and tightened them by hand. My problem was that I thought the speed bleed should screw all the way in... meaning no more threads showing. I was wrong. If you go with the brass, look to see about how far you need to screw it in, and then carefully tighten it. I was trying to make sure mine was tight, and it easily sheered off... TWICE. The other option (much better IMHO) is to get the stainless steel versions.

Yes, I broke the brass off by over-tightening it, but trust me, it's easy to do. In fact, it must happen fairly commonly, because the speed bleeder website has a lengthy writeup (thank goodness) telling you how to get out a speed bleeder if or when you break one off. The choice is yours. Brass will work if you are careful enough and know what you're doing. Obviously I wasn't and didn't !!! :dancin::dancin:

 

[rypajo]

I broke off the brass ones I used. I used a closed end box wrench and tightened them by hand. My problem was that I thought the speed bleed should screw all the way in... meaning no more threads showing. I was wrong. If you go with the brass, look to see about how far you need to screw it in, and then carefully tighten it. I was trying to make sure mine was tight, and it easily sheered off... TWICE. The other option (much better IMHO) is to get the stainless steel versions.

Yes, I broke the brass off by over-tightening it, but trust me, it's easy to do. In fact, it must happen fairly commonly, because the speed bleeder website has a lengthy writeup (thank goodness) telling you how to get out a speed bleeder if or when you break one off. The choice is yours. Brass will work if you are careful enough and know what you're doing. Obviously I wasn't and didn't !!! :dancin::dancin:

Yep I measured mine before tightening and followed the part in the instructions that they do not need to be aggressively tightened. Tightened mine to snug and 3k miles later no leaks.

 

[ZoSoIV]

I'm getting the stainless steel lines for my FJ

 

[pjbrownva]

I'm getting the stainless steel lines for my FJ

SS lines are a nice upgrade. I put them on my T4R too. My post was about brass speed bleeders vs stainless steel speed bleeders.

Here was my first (Brass) speed bleeder order from the speed bleeder website:

SB1010 Speed Bleeder Sku: SB1010 qty: 2 x $7.00 = $14.00

Bag & Hose Combo Sku: BAGANDHOSECOMBO qty: 1 x $6.00 = $6.00

SB7100 Speed Bleeder Sku: SB7100 qty: 2 x $7.00 = $14.00

Extra Dust Cap Sku: DUSTCAP qty: 1 x $.10 = $.10

----------
After I broke off two of the brass ones by over tightening them, I gave up and ordered all stainless steel ones. In some of the reading that I did, I saw that racers (for example) prefer the stainless steel, because they often flush their brake fluid after every race. I decided to go with the Stainless steel for durability and piece of mind. If I (or a mechanic) flush my brake fluid a few years from now, I don't want to have a speed bleeder that is so fragile that you will over-tighten it and shear it off if you aren't careful. I'd rather have something stronger... for piece of mind, and for fewer hassles down the road.



Here's the Stainless steel order from speedbleeder.com



So for $66 instead of $34, I feel the stainless steel is worth it.

Just my $0.02.

 

[ZoSoIV]

I found the stainless steel for 129.00 for the FJ

 

[GLW68]

Looks good! Did you paint the calipers?

No, I didn't as it is mostly a 'work truck'.

They are starting to rust, but the old ones were brown too...

 

[GLW68]

Does anyone know if the Dust Guards for a 5th gen would fit on a 4th gen? I've got an 08 SR5 with 17" wheels but it appears to have the smaller rotors. I know the 4th gen Sport has the larger rotor and the dust guard fit with the 5th gen upgrade is very close. What I don't know is if the Sport dust guard is larger than mine with it's smaller rotor. What I'm trying to do is determine which dust guard will fit the closet and require the least amount of cutting and bending. Does anyone have any idea on this? Thx

I saw post 537 above and the P/N is for 4th gen 17" wheel but doesn't specify SE, Limited or SR5.

See my post 576 for pics and part numbers; yes they fit perfectly for 17" wheels on 4th gen.

 

[FolsomT4R]

Finished installing the rear rotors last weekend and even completely loosening the star adjusters, bent 3 out of the 4 parking brake pins taking off the old rotors. Such a PITA to fix those, but I used a zip tie like others mentioned and finally got everything back together. Bled the brakes, performed the 40x brake pedal depress process and everything feels great now. No more spongy feel!

 

[RadRunner14]

Finished installing the rear rotors last weekend and even completely loosening the star adjusters, bent 3 out of the 4 parking brake pins taking off the old rotors. Such a PITA to fix those, but I used a zip tie like others mentioned and finally got everything back together. Bled the brakes, performed the 40x brake pedal depress process and everything feels great now. No more spongy feel!

What's the 40x brake depress process? About to do it this week if it's not 15* out.. you just step on the brake pedal 40+ times


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FolsomT4R]

What's the 40x brake depress process? About to do it this week if it's not 15* out.. you just step on the brake pedal 40+ times


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, pretty much. Many folks on here have had good luck with 40 long depresses of the brake pedal with the car off. There is also a procedure I followed from the service manual below that worked for me.

BLEED BRAKE BOOSTER W/ACCUMULATOR PUMP
ASSEMBLY

HINT:
Perform this step only if the brake booster with
accumulator pump assembly is removed and/or
installed.

(a) Turn the ignition switch off, depress the brake pedal
20 times or more to release the pressure from the
accumulator.

(b) Fully depress the brake pedal 10 times.

(c) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and start
the brake booster pump.

(d) Make sure the pump operates for 8 to 14 seconds.
If the pump does not operate as specified, repeat
steps (a) to (c) and recheck the operating time.