5th Gen Calipers

I live in Eastern Washington State. Chemicals used on the roads in the winter months are really hard on the underside of the rig(2009 SR5). I try to keep the underside as clean as I can by using a carwash but lots of rust anyways. I ride motorcycles as long as the weather will allow so my 4Runner only has about 65,000 miles on it. I've gone through three sets of calipers.

From what I've read here, the 5th gen parts are a little better but still the problems remain. Maybe next time around I will spend the big bucks and go with an aftermarket upgrade(SOS, or RR Racing). Buying new calipers and other parts every 20,000 miles is getting old. Seems like there has got to be something out there that will last longer.

p

Yeah, I would recommend NOT doing the upgrade. Despite you getting "bigger" piston/rotors/whatever, you will NOT feel a difference in performance. I have YET to see any objective test between 4th/5th brakes performance. If I were you, just get OEM (if you can get it cheap), or head to rockauto and get the "specially coated" calipers/rotors.

I have heard of others installing other high performance brakes, but that is pricey.

good luck.
 
Just ordered 5th gen OEM from mcgeorge? Toyota. Under $320 shipped for fronts. Using 5th gen OEM pads most likely unless someone knows a better option at the same price range. Also ordered front and rear stoptech SS line kits. Does anyone know of a kit for the rear inner lines??, I keep seeing them listed individually only
 
Just ordered 5th gen OEM from mcgeorge? Toyota. Under $320 shipped for fronts. Using 5th gen OEM pads most likely unless someone knows a better option at the same price range. Also ordered front and rear stoptech SS line kits. Does anyone know of a kit for the rear inner lines??, I keep seeing them listed individually only

+2 inch kit for all 6 lines

Amazon.com
Goodridge 2-21186 Brake Line Amazon.com: Goodridge 2-21186 Brake Line: Automotive

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Yeah, I saw those, but reviews are split. Will have stoptech kits delivered Friday. Might see if I can have some made locally.
I installed them recently (December) and had no issues. Only real hiccup was the rear banjo bolts don't fit in the caliper slot. They need to be rotated out a bit to clear but they do work.

I believe I read crown will make some if you contact them and tell them what you need. I may be mistaken but I seem to remember people in your situation doing that.

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I’ve been running Goodridge lines close to 150K miles with zero issues. Multiple ventures into the bowels of Moab which believe me will test your brake lines.
 
Someone brought up the topic of the type of grease they used for the slide pins. In my experience you can't check them often enough. I learned years ago to use Dow HVG (High Vacuum Grease) in certain areas, and brake assembly lube for items that may come in contact with brake fluid.

Any type of silicone grease SHOULD NOT be used in areas that come in contact with brake fluid, e.g. piston surfaces, calipers' piston bore surfaces, or seals. I think the exception here might be if you use silicone/DOT5 brake fluid, but I don't think many people do. Pad-to-piston contact areas and slide pins are ok.

The bores that the slide pins live in are very tight, and even if you use the correct grease, they are prone to sticking when dirt builds up.

I make it a habit to pull my calipers and inspect the slide pins whenever I rotate the tires. Takes another 20 minutes to pull them all, clean the pins and dab on a little more grease.
 
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14wa vs 14wb

Ok, so just got my OEM calipers, they have 14WB casting number. Thought I'd read those won't work because they have 14mm bolts instead of 12mm. Measured bolt holes and they are 12mm. Anyone know if Toyota just only uses the 14WB's now with different size holes for different part numbers? Been a few years since I worked there, but called an old coworker and he said 47750-60300 and 47730-60300 were the only part numbers offered for 10-15's Anyone else ran into that?
 
Disc Brake Caliper Issues Being Blamed Again For Owners Neglect & No Common Sense:

Not trying to put anyone down, we all have to learn at some point. Let me try and keep this brief and as simple as I can. The vast majority of disc brake calipers work by using slide pins. The inner caliper slides on these as the brakes are used. Easy ID: Look for the rubber boots, there will be one upper and one lower. Just like tie rods, cv joints etc.... these boots keep lubricant in and contaminates out. Simple Right?

Despite the infomercials you've seen at 3am on channel 386 , there is no lubricant, grease or oil, that will last a lifetime, especially parts that are seeing high heat. The lube breaks down, which mean friction increases, this means the caliper can no longer slide and gets stuck. Then everyone jumps on the world wide web and blames the vehicle manufacturer, the caliper manufacturer, their third grade teacher, ........... The only one to blame is the one staring back at them in the mirror. Just being honest. I've been turning wrenches longer than most of you have been alive. You can listen or ignore the advice and it's worth exactly what you paid for it. I myself consider brakes the most important function on any moving vehicle, but I'm a dinosaur why listen to me?

Besides the lubricant braking down the boots get holes and rips in them, or simply get out of position and this allows lube to exit and all sorts of things to enter. How fast the lube breaks down is impossible to say, to many variables. Type of Lube, Type of Driving, Where you drive, etc........ I check the boots every time I'm under a vehicle. Once a year I take a couple hours and take the calipers off, clean and inspect the components, replace what's needed, re-assemble with quality dielectric grease, (AKA Caliper Grease) and reassemble. I have never had a sliding caliper seize on any vehicle I have owned or have been responsible before.

Back when I bought my first Powerstroke the most common topic was seized brakes with everything being blamed from Ford to Speed Bumps, not joking. I wrote a thread similar to this one and those that listened to the suggestions no longer had an issue with seized calipers. I didn't invent the cure, hundreds of grease monkey's like me have known about it for years, but the internet now allows the word to get out to everyone. There are some greedy grease monkey's out there that don't want this info getting out as they make great money replacing seized calipers. I'm sure I'll get PM's from this one just like all the others but I'm not going to stop posting the truth, it might be my son, daughter and my grandkids that somebody slams into doing 70mph with little braking.

There are plenty of YouTube videos that will walk you through this process, no need for me to make this any longer. To answer the most common questions now:
WHAT LUBE TO USE? Use any quality dielectric grease, stick with brand
names that you have heard of. The one I like the
best is sold at Napa called Sil-Glyde.

HOW MUCH LUBE? To much grease can be bad as well. Clean all the old
out with brake cleaner and a shop towel. Lube the pin
up all around and fully insert it into the bore. Remove
the pin, you will see less lube, apply more lube to the
pin. The most important part: Put a good amount of
grease inside the rubber boot and work it into the
folds in the boot, that is what they are there for. Once
they are filled insert the pin and assemble the caliper.

HOW OFTEN? As I already stated it's impossible to predict. As a general
rule I say once a year. There is no such thing as being to
safe when it comes to the brake system on a vehicle that
hauls around what should be the people you love the
most in this world.

Summary:
I sure didn't mean to ruffle any feathers, that's not my intent. If one person will follow my suggestion than the time it took me to type this out is worth every hunt and peck on this poor keyboard. I'm not saying that manufacturers don't make bad components and new designs aren't always better. I'm simply saying before we start blaming everyone on the planet let's look at what failed and ask what could have been done to prevent it. We all aren't mechanical engineers so pointing the finger isn't going to mean much to anyone that will make changes because of what we say. Thank you for your time and if this proves to help you with your brake issue please help spread the word to help others in the same position.
God Bless
 
Not trying to put anyone down, we all have to learn at some point. Let me try and keep this brief and as simple as I can. The vast majority of disc brake calipers work by using slide pins. The inner caliper slides on these as the brakes are used. Easy ID: Look for the rubber boots, there will be one upper and one lower. Just like tie rods, cv joints etc.... these boots keep lubricant in and contaminates out. Simple Right?

Despite the infomercials you've seen at 3am on channel 386 , there is no lubricant, grease or oil, that will last a lifetime, especially parts that are seeing high heat. The lube breaks down, which mean friction increases, this means the caliper can no longer slide and gets stuck. Then everyone jumps on the world wide web and blames the vehicle manufacturer, the caliper manufacturer, their third grade teacher, ........... The only one to blame is the one staring back at them in the mirror. Just being honest. I've been turning wrenches longer than most of you have been alive. You can listen or ignore the advice and it's worth exactly what you paid for it. I myself consider brakes the most important function on any moving vehicle, but I'm a dinosaur why listen to me?

Besides the lubricant braking down the boots get holes and rips in them, or simply get out of position and this allows lube to exit and all sorts of things to enter. How fast the lube breaks down is impossible to say, to many variables. Type of Lube, Type of Driving, Where you drive, etc........ I check the boots every time I'm under a vehicle. Once a year I take a couple hours and take the calipers off, clean and inspect the components, replace what's needed, re-assemble with quality dielectric grease, (AKA Caliper Grease) and reassemble. I have never had a sliding caliper seize on any vehicle I have owned or have been responsible before.

Back when I bought my first Powerstroke the most common topic was seized brakes with everything being blamed from Ford to Speed Bumps, not joking. I wrote a thread similar to this one and those that listened to the suggestions no longer had an issue with seized calipers. I didn't invent the cure, hundreds of grease monkey's like me have known about it for years, but the internet now allows the word to get out to everyone. There are some greedy grease monkey's out there that don't want this info getting out as they make great money replacing seized calipers. I'm sure I'll get PM's from this one just like all the others but I'm not going to stop posting the truth, it might be my son, daughter and my grandkids that somebody slams into doing 70mph with little braking.

There are plenty of YouTube videos that will walk you through this process, no need for me to make this any longer. To answer the most common questions now:
WHAT LUBE TO USE? Use any quality dielectric grease, stick with brand
names that you have heard of. The one I like the
best is sold at Napa called Sil-Glyde.

HOW MUCH LUBE? To much grease can be bad as well. Clean all the old
out with brake cleaner and a shop towel. Lube the pin
up all around and fully insert it into the bore. Remove
the pin, you will see less lube, apply more lube to the
pin. The most important part: Put a good amount of
grease inside the rubber boot and work it into the
folds in the boot, that is what they are there for. Once
they are filled insert the pin and assemble the caliper.

HOW OFTEN? As I already stated it's impossible to predict. As a general
rule I say once a year. There is no such thing as being to
safe when it comes to the brake system on a vehicle that
hauls around what should be the people you love the
most in this world.

Summary:
I sure didn't mean to ruffle any feathers, that's not my intent. If one person will follow my suggestion than the time it took me to type this out is worth every hunt and peck on this poor keyboard. I'm not saying that manufacturers don't make bad components and new designs aren't always better. I'm simply saying before we start blaming everyone on the planet let's look at what failed and ask what could have been done to prevent it. We all aren't mechanical engineers so pointing the finger isn't going to mean much to anyone that will make changes because of what we say. Thank you for your time and if this proves to help you with your brake issue please help spread the word to help others in the same position.
God Bless

Great post. I need to go give those pins some lovin!
 
good advice regarding the slide pins on calipers...

however, the vast majority of frozen/stuck caliper issues on these 4runners & many other vehicles is not related to the pins, its the piston(s) freezing in the bore due to contaminates & road salt etc causing corrosion to the piston which makes them freeze up & get stuck. so while its a good idea to inspect/lube the slide pins, that is not whats usually causing 4runner frozen calipers.

& not sure if this is another one of those misused terms but true "dielectric" grease is not what should be used on brake components, its for sealing moisture out of electronic parts like spark plug boots or distributor caps etc. just wanted to clarify that because some people might read that & go buy a tube of regular dielectric grease to use on their brakes. sli-glide was mentioned which is designed for brake components but is not standard dielectric grease like this.

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NCHornet, I appreciate your advise; there is some great information there that applies to the rear calipers on the 4runner. I have been a victim of sticking or "seized" calipers with glide pins & have been able to clean & lube them with good results. Thanks for the brand recommendation as in the past I may have used caliper grease (unknown brand or quality) & I have also used wheel bearing grease. Don't know if the latter is appropriate but MY thoughts were that it has high heat resistance and it seems very viscous (or sticky - not sure if I'm using the right term).

As I'm sure you know the front calipers on the 4runner don't use slide pins, they are fixed with 4 pistons, 2 each side. For me the lower inboard pistons keep seizing. Some have only lasted a year. Thankyou for lifetime warrantees on the calipers I use. Any advise on keeping the from seizing? They have rubber boots around the pistons & on "new" (REBUILT) calipers, I've tried to stuff grease in those boots; caliper grease, marine grease, wheel bearing grease. I seem to have had the best luck with wheel bearing grease. Why don't they make those pistons out of SS? (I know SS can still corrode but it would be more resistant. The current pistons are HORRIBLY rusted on the seized calipers.

May of our vehicular failures are due to lack of or poor maintenance; I'm as guilty as many but not sure what to do with these front calipers.
Any thoughts?
 
Did my 5th Gen brake upgrade 6-7 years ago on my front calipers on my 04 Sport.

Front Right was done 6/16/2016 and it was a Napa Cardone Lifetime warranty caliper. It is still going.

After 5 Wisconsin winters, my drivers side front caliper seized this month. That unit was either an oreiley, autozone or advance auto remanufactured caliper.

I plan on following [MENTION=70631]pjbrownva[/MENTION] ‘s advice and get another Napa Cardone Painted Lifetime Caliper for the left now and see how long it lasts.

5 winters in this salt is a good run I’d say!
 
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Did my 5th Gen brake upgrade 6-7 years ago on my front calipers. (Not exactly sure, will dig and upgrade when I find the posts).

After 6 Wisconsin winters, my drivers side front caliper seized this month on my 04 Sport.

Not sure on what to do to stop the problem. It's possible that @NC's comments about removing the calipers once a year and cleaning everything might help.

I did the 5th gen upgrade using centric parts, and so far, so good (it's been a BUNCH of years... like maybe 1 or 2 after this thread started)... but if I need calipers again, i'm getting them from NAPA. As you mentioned, you can't beat the lifetime warranty. If one seizes ... get a replacement at no cost!

:-)
 
Not sure on what to do to stop the problem. It's possible that @NC's comments about removing the calipers once a year and cleaning everything might help.

I did the 5th gen upgrade using centric parts, and so far, so good (it's been a BUNCH of years... like maybe 1 or 2 after this thread started)... but if I need calipers again, i'm getting them from NAPA. As you mentioned, you can't beat the lifetime warranty. If one seizes ... get a replacement at no cost!

:-)

I’ll probably just swap the front pair. Are the Napa lifetime ones painted?
 
I’m still rolling with those centric parts from the first post of thread! Not seized yet….knock on wood lol

Wow! Hat's off to you, Sir!
[MENTION=66825]084RUNNAH[/MENTION], You started quite a trend. You rock! :rockon:

BTW, I guess I need to update my thumbnail photo... I now have a life, +1 sized tires and black and chrome rims from a Tacoma...
she sits high and proud and looks like a new truck! :-)
 
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