5th Gen Gear Swaps??
- Thread starter jpclark
- Start date
Jeremy556
New member
Yep, exactly. It's an extra tool in the box. I run mine pretty frequently, so that I can go slower over an obstacle and not rely on momentum
Zeusmotorworks
New member
To all who are not locker savvy I apologize... you absolutely can get into trouble with a locked up and flexed Toyota IFS. However, it's a wonderful tool depending on YOU! I have to remind myself that what I call wheeling many would consider "buggying" and far from just a mug puddle or two. Matter of fact, I don't do mud unless it's between me and the rocks/limestone shelves for the most part. So with that said, for those who who are new to it but intend to hit the rocks, have a good spotter to help you learn what and what not to do. A calm head generally prevails regardless of what you get into.
And know that 99% of folks really don't NEED a front locker when ATRAC will serve most's purposes.
Never felt an "Oh Shit!" moment because I didn't get a locker until I'd been wheeling for a while. So I'd seen others use theirs and teach others to use their own.
Unless I lived in the mountains and towed a small trailer, I don't know that I'd do 4:88s. Remember, it's understood in the Toyota 8" rear end world that 4.56s have more meat to them than the 4.88s. So do you need to go that low, and how hard will you use it?
I'm to the understanding that an ARB is not an option with an e-locker rear end. However, it might be simple as fabricating a block off plate.
...and that sir is exactly what I like about the gears and locked up. I can go slower and ease up vs beat up my truck.
And know that 99% of folks really don't NEED a front locker when ATRAC will serve most's purposes.
Never felt an "Oh Shit!" moment because I didn't get a locker until I'd been wheeling for a while. So I'd seen others use theirs and teach others to use their own.
Unless I lived in the mountains and towed a small trailer, I don't know that I'd do 4:88s. Remember, it's understood in the Toyota 8" rear end world that 4.56s have more meat to them than the 4.88s. So do you need to go that low, and how hard will you use it?
I'm to the understanding that an ARB is not an option with an e-locker rear end. However, it might be simple as fabricating a block off plate.
...and that sir is exactly what I like about the gears and locked up. I can go slower and ease up vs beat up my truck.
wfo9
New member
I honestly lock mine all the time (even when it is not absolutely necessary), but I also unlock it quickly. That is the beauty of slectable locker. For the rear, I leave it on sometimes and just forget about it....
As [MENTION=78273]Jeremy556[/MENTION] said, you can get up things with so much less momentum, and it is 100% predictable since you are 100% in control. With ATRAC.... it's decent, but unpredictable. Grace vs sloppy... although it is sometimes better in really slick and unpredictable traction situations.
My truck can "walk" up things locked. While those with open diffs or a rear locker can still get up it. They are spinning tires and bouncing about with wheels in the air... I know that will break stuff faster than anything else. I come from a background in moto-trials, so it's natural for me to always use the least amount of momentum possible on any obstacle. Most people get way too happy with the skinny pedal under exciting situations, which is what usually breaks stuff. They don't even realize they are doing it.
In trials, if you use too much momentum on one gate/obstacle, you are totally screwed for the next one. Every move and blip of the throttle has to be very calculated. I find rock crawling to be similar, but also extremely different with 4 wheels and 5k lbs to deal with.
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TravelWest01
New member
Sweet! You are going to love it!
JSparky
New member
Bumping for an update, lots of good information in this thread.
To those running 4.56 gears with 33's, what are your thoughts after living with them for awhile? I'm going in for a rear locker soon and want to re-gear at the same time.
Do we have an RPM estimate at 75 or 80 mph?
To those running 4.56 gears with 33's, what are your thoughts after living with them for awhile? I'm going in for a rear locker soon and want to re-gear at the same time.
Do we have an RPM estimate at 75 or 80 mph?
rochmpr
Senior Member
I have 4.56 and 34" tires and have calced that the total gearing is 7% lower than stock. So running down the highway at 70 on the speedo has RPM's somewhere in the 2,500+ if I remember correctly. The actual speed (GPS) would be about 75 MPH. I have zero issue with it, especially when getting to the mountains, less searching for the right gear.
maddiesel67
New member
if running 35 12.50's, 4.56 or 4.88? full load out armor,skids,rack,rtt , bumpers, cargo drawers
Jetboy
New member
This is only because you haven't had your ARB very long. The seals will fail. And you'll be left with no locker and gear lube bubbling out of the vent. Just give it time. They all do. Just a question of when. There's a very good reason Toyota doesn't build them that way. They're built as well as you probably could manufacture a 1930's technology with modern equipment. But in the end it's still a high pressure air seal in a dirty, varying temperature, and moving environment.
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BigredTEX
New member
I went to 4.56 gears about 2 months ago and couldn't be happier. As you can see in my signature I'm not running full armor, but have added a significant amount of weight and running 33's. I plan to go to 34's with my next tire change later this summer.
You will see approx. 2,500 rpm at 75 mph with 33" tires. Go to this web site Gear Ratio Calculator to play "what if" with tire sizes and gearing to see what it will do. I've picked up about 1 mpg around town and lost 1 mpg on the highway. You will notice a significant performance improvement around town and your cruise control will work flawlessly on the highway. I don't tow, but you should see a significant improvement there too.
Zeusmotorworks
New member
All I know is nearly 5 daily driven years later, after serious wheeling trips, busting a couple teeth off the 4.56 gears (setup by ECGS who also installed the ARB, and the busted gear they replaced under warranty), same time busting a half shaft into three pieces while bending a LCA (all this jackasses fault BTW), the ARB is still my favorite over the shit at the other end... that frustrates me. Do ARBs have failures? Absolutely... as does any other manufactured product. Does anyone with ATRAC even need an ARB? As I've said, for MOST folks probably NOT.
As to the thread... wouldn't still have the truck without the 4.56 gears.
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CbatEngineer1371
New member
Is the rear end on these things different than the 2nd gen tacomas? I only ask cause there is a TON of options for them, I feel the most common are 4.88 and 4.56
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
maddiesel67
New member
Ecgs offers a "thick" 4.88.?
For you guys that went the ECGS third/clamshell swap, can you comment on the install? Have reviewed the FSM procedure but would like to hear user feedback. I'm hearing about $3k installed for gears only/open diffs from 3 local reputable sources vs. about $1600-$1800 to go the ECGS route.
I'm only running stock sizes meats with a few hundred pounds of armor (sliders/skids) so maybe I am crazy, but considering a set of 4.56s to improve overall drivability and low-end torque for towing in the Rocky mountains.
I'm only running stock sizes meats with a few hundred pounds of armor (sliders/skids) so maybe I am crazy, but considering a set of 4.56s to improve overall drivability and low-end torque for towing in the Rocky mountains.
BigredTEX
New member
To give you an idea of what it COULD be done for, I purchased Nitro gears and master install kits for $1,000, saving about $300 over normal retail. I had quotes ranging from $900 to $1,200 for install from two very reputable shops in the area. I ended up getting it done for $700, exercising the "friends and family" discount from a large, national chain of off-road shops (I won't mention names; they get a lot of bad press on this forum, but they've always done good work for me). Total cost was $1,700 plus tax.
If you go the 3rd member swap route, installation should not be more than $700, since everything is already set up and you only need to slide the axles out to R&R the 3rd member. If you're adding an air locker, purchase and installation of the compressor and air lines will add more $$.
wfo9
New member
The install is not complicated at all. Just time consuming and a bit awkward on jack stands due to the weight you need to manage while on your back... I've done it twice now on two different trucks. It's not a joy, but also not bad at all.
End result is totally worth it.. Makes the truck drive like it should have come from the factory. Not sure what it would be like with stock tires... I would say run 285s at least.... There are a couple of good guides over on fjCruiserForum.com search for DIY clamshell swap and then 3rd member swap.
Awesome... thank you!! Seems a little less daunting with a good write-up & pics than just reading the FSM.
DIY clamshell swap - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
DIY 3rd Member swap - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
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