Looks like those connectors could work! Based on the wiring diagram, the N12 and N13 are what feed the speakers. While there's a good chance it hasn't changed, those diagrams are for the 10-13 models, so I would try to find one for your model year and verify. Also, one thing I'd recommend is to get a test tone generator so that you can test the wiring before you starting patching and connecting the cables and make sure you don't have any crossed wires. Something like the one in the link below should work. For example (and based on the wiring diagram), if you connect the tone generator to pins 5 and 12 on the N12(B) connector, the passenger rear door speaker should be the one active. With the tone generator you can trace it all the way back to the new amp and make sure the connections are good.
Test tone generator (there are several brands that all look the same)
- Test Tone generator
Test tone generator (there are several brands that all look the same)
- Test Tone generator
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